pairing of meat with fruit: not in the US yet

[Gifted Gourmet]

article from the Miami Herald

But one concept that hasn't caught on here, at least in a big way, is the pairing of meat with fruit. Cooks throughout the world have understood that fruit's natural sugars offer a mellow counterpoint to the dominant flavors of certain meats, poultry and fish. In other cases, fruit is used to give life to otherwise bland flesh. Polynesian recipes, especially for pork, showcase local papaya, pineapple, banana and coconut. The tagines of Morocco may combine lamb with dates or prunes, chicken with figs or apricots. Turkish cooks add pomegranates and raisins to meat; Jewish recipes for beef brisket and tsimmes (a meat and/or vegetable stew) often call for dried fruit.

What are the ways and recipes that you use which make this pairing of fruit with meats successful?

[chromedome]

Back in December I did a catered meal/cooking demonstration for a group of investment brokers, and this subject was part of my discussion/demonstration.

The entree for their meal was a chicken breast wrapped in prosciutto; stuffed with sauteed grapes, onions, pine nuts, and chiffonaded basil. That, to my palate, delivered a nice combination of flavours, textures, and (important with breasts) moisture. I like grapes with poultry, especially with chicken.

Sauteed grapes make a beautiful garnish, by the way. Throw a few green seedless grapes into the pan with some butter, and they'll turn to a beautiful milky-jade colour.

There are a lot of combinations that I like. I consider prunes to be a natural with poultry as well, and I like them with pork. Apricots are beautiful with lamb, and I've served apricot puree with pork as well. I use raisins or currants (or any dried fruit I have on hand, for that matter) in many of my curries, and especially in mid-East-influenced stews. Cut the large black or red plums into wedges; sautee them in a little butter and sugar; flambee with brandy or whiskey, and serve them with your broiled or barbecued meats.

It's not entirely true, of course, to say that fruit-with-meat is not done in North America. Turkey and cranberries, anyone? Ham with pineapple? Pork chops with applesauce?

[Tess]

I think there's too much fruit with meat at US restaurants already. That grape thing sounds fine, and some dishes do call for fruit, but I'm tired of seeing mangoes and pineapples and things all over chicken and fish. I think it's been going on for a long time too, at least since the mid-90s.

[Pan]

Roast chicken stuffed with apples is an old recipe, so that's chicken with fruit, though the apples usually aren't eaten in that combination. Also, I would think that Duck a l'Orange has a long history of being served in French and French-influenced restaurants in the US, too. And does fish/seafood with lemon count?

[jackal10]

Apple sauce with pork or goose

Cranberry with turkey

Redcurrant with game and lamb

Apricot in stuffing

Prunes in cocky leekie if you're a sassenach

[Pan]

What's a sassenach?

[jackal10]

What's a sassenach?

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A southerner (not a scotsman) usually ignorant, oir at least ignorant enough to put prunes in cockie leekie

http://www.royal-stuarts.org/sassenach.htm

[fifi]

I really don't like much in the way of sweet notes in savory dishes. There are some exceptions. Coconut fried shrimp with a mango/pineapple/habernero dipping sauce is one of my passions and I sample it at various locations when I get a chance. (Scroll down for a picture of a particularly worthy version.)

I also like halved seedless grapes in chicken salad.

A few years ago, I was doing business a lot in Mexico City and we often had lunch ordered in. Oddly enough, the most common offering was pizza, "Hawaiian Style," with pineapple and ham. I actually actually acquired a taste for it.

As for using fruit, it doesn't always have to be sweet. My current craze for pork involves a sour treatment with citrus. (I often use Goya Mojo Criollo or a home made riff on that.) And let us not forget ceviche made with fresh key lime juice.

But I really want some foie gras without sweet glop. (Oops. I said that on another thread today. Forgive my fixation. )

[Swisskaese]

I make all sorts of things with fruit:

Chicken with quince

Veal with dried and fresh figs

Chicken, Fish and Meat with Pomegranate

Meat with dried apricots, figs, dates

Fish with a pineapple, coconut milk, lemongrass and ginger sauce

Fish with mango and orange

Chicken with lemon, oranges and ginger

Chicken with apples, apricots and cinnamon

Lamb with a dried cherry or apricot sauce

I could go on and on.....

Edited February 6, 2005 by Swisskaese (log)

[Swisskaese]

I think there's too much fruit with meat at US restaurants already. That grape thing sounds fine, and some dishes do call for fruit, but I'm tired of seeing mangoes and pineapples and things all over chicken and fish. I think it's been going on for a long time too, at least since the mid-90s.

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Not everything revolves around the US. Fruit dishes have been around a lot longer than the 90s. Try thousands of years!!!

[NickV]

There's the Thai-style salad of green papaya/cucumber/tomato with skirt steak. Savory fruits, but fruits all the same.

[spaghetttti]

I'm still new to fruit and meat pairings, but a take-off from the prosciutto and melon, these smoked salmon wrapped cantaloupe melon balls were quite tasty and a great success.

[chefzadi]

I think there's too much fruit with meat at US restaurants already. That grape thing sounds fine, and some dishes do call for fruit, but I'm tired of seeing mangoes and pineapples and things all over chicken and fish. I think it's been going on for a long time too, at least since the mid-90s.

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Not everything revolves around the US. Fruit dishes have been around a lot longer than the 90s. Try thousands of years!!!

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In Arab cuisine for instance?

[Gifted Gourmet]

Not everything revolves around the US.

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Oh, I know that only too well, Swisskaese .. but the article piqued my curiosity and mentioned the US first ... so it gave me the idea initially and I went with that!

[Ling]

I do like certain fruits with meat, but I prefer the fruit to be tart and not sickeningly sweet.

I like the classics:

-turkey and cranberry

-duck and sour plum

-duck and sour cherry

I also love proscuitto and melon. Even though melon is a very sweet fruit, the proscuitto is salty enough to offset the sweetness.

Edited February 7, 2005 by Ling (log)

[Mooshmouse]

Lamb tagine... lamb with dates or prunes. Mmmm!

[lovebenton0]

grapes with chicken

apricots with just about any kind of bird

apples with pork and 'kraut

raisins and currants in curry

ham with citrus, or apple

what about beef skirt for fajitas marinated with grapefruit

orange with beef in salad or in savory braise with pepper and onion to offset the sweetness

pummelo (my new fav citrus this season ) in salad with beef

figs with lamb

any bird and pork with cranberry

[Adam Balic]

Prunes in cocky leekie if you're a sassenach

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Prunes is cocky leekie is traditional, if anachronistic, even in Scoland.

Mostly a matter of perception I think. Who thinks twice of tomato with meat? A decent tomato is actually quite sweet. Most european traditional cooking contains a fruit element quite commonly.

[Swisskaese]

Not everything revolves around the US.

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Oh, I know that only too well, Swisskaese .. but the article piqued my curiosity and mentioned the US first ... so it gave me the idea initially and I went with that!

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Melissa, I wasn't referring to your topic, I was referring to the comment about this has been overdone in US food and has been around since the 90s. I wanted to make the point that fruit and meat combinations have been around for thousands of years and as Chef Zadi so aptly pointed out, that a great deal of the influence comes from Middle Eastern and Arab cuisine.

[Pan]

[...]

Mostly a matter of perception I think. Who thinks twice of tomato with meat? A decent tomato is actually quite sweet. Most european traditional cooking contains a fruit element quite commonly.

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Quite right, Adam. And as I'm fond of reminding people, the tomato is in fact a fruit.

[petite tête de chou]

Venison roast with either a sour cherry/port sauce or blackberry/port sauce.

Baked catfish with apples and leeks.

Pork and fruit seem especially suited for each other.

[Busboy]

[...]

Mostly a matter of perception I think. Who thinks twice of tomato with meat? A decent tomato is actually quite sweet. Most european traditional cooking contains a fruit element quite commonly.

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Quite right, Adam. And as I'm fond of reminding people, the tomato is in fact a fruit.

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Ever had a tomato in a fruit salad? I rest my case.

We do fish with a pineapple salsa, scallops with mago buerre blanc and orange sections, or sometimes with apple cream sauce and sauteed apples.

Foie almost always gets fruit, as does duck.

We have a favorite lamb recipe where the lamb marinates a couple of days in Indian spices and gets served with a home-made chutney, usually Asian pear or pear.

Edited February 7, 2005 by Busboy (log)

[Jason Perlow]

Chinese and Malaysian dishes using sauteed mango or pineapple with chicken or seafood and some type of spicy sauce. Works great.

[Tess]

Melissa, I wasn't referring to your topic, I was referring to the comment about this has been overdone in US food and has been around since the 90s. I wanted to make the point that fruit and meat combinations have been around for thousands of years and as Chef Zadi so aptly pointed out, that a great deal of the influence comes from Middle Eastern and Arab cuisine.

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But my comment (which is the one you were referring to) was in direct response to the topic.

[Adam Balic]

[...]

Mostly a matter of perception I think. Who thinks twice of tomato with meat? A decent tomato is actually quite sweet. Most european traditional cooking contains a fruit element quite commonly.

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Quite right, Adam. And as I'm fond of reminding people, the tomato is in fact a fruit.

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Ever had a tomato in a fruit salad? I rest my case.

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Sure, tomato salsa is good. You should try.

As I said it is a matter of perception and the inherit qualities of the fruit involved. Duck with cherries, not problem, duck with banana (OK, I could conceive of a duck and plantain stew that may be OK), no thanks.

If 99% of tomatos sold were not rubbish, I can see no reason why they shouldn't be used as a in a dessert, only experimentaion will determine if it will work or not though.