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pedro

El Celler de Can Roca

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I can only second gaf in that the Roca brother create a very special and unique dining experience, especially in the new interior which is both contemplative and welcoming... It is very sensual, almost magical.

We had a quite similar meal as gaf and must say that overal this was one of the finest meals I've had so far. Difficult to compare, though, but it is a subtle and intelligent demonstrtion what modern techniques can do when used sensibly and where it makes sense...

It was surely unique enough to merit three stars/19 points with some true breath-taking dishes. For the detailed review and pictures see my blog.

BTW: we also investigated around the kid "belly" but just from the piece we had I would say it was more a belly part.

Interestingly a good friend of mine was told that the goose was rather swan - I will write to Joan and see what they say...

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Returning from Barcelona to London via Girona last Thursday for a long weekend, I decided to seize the opportunity and visit El Celler de Can Roca. Having arrived at the railway station, I took a stroll up into the town and found the new premises very easily.

My initial reception was welcoming and relaxing and the service continued in this vein throughout the meal. The waiters were so professional - always there when needed and never visible when not - and Josep was always available and ready to recommend wines and ensure that everything was OK.

I ordered the menú festival, which seems to have expanded from a previous 11 courses (8 mains, 2 pre-desserts and a dessert) to 12 courses, with an additional main. I've described them all on my blog post at http://aidanbrooks.blogspot.com/2008/12/roca-n-roll.html and posted photos on my Flickr site at http://www.flickr.com/photos/aidanbrooks/s...157610402411923. The price was €115+IVA, with paired wines at €45+IVA.

This was my fourth experience of a Michelin 2* restaurant and one that I'll never forget. Never before have I been served a tasting menu in which I was unable to detect a single fault in execution. The meal was simply flawless. Creative without being excessive or experimental. And delicious - for the stomach as well as for the intellect! I don't know why they failed to achieve their third star last month, but it will surely come next year.

I was especially thrilled when, after my meal, Joan invited me to tour his kitchens. I'd like to return there one day - in my jacket and with my knives, ready for work.

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Fourth visit to the Roca brothers', yet first in the new restaurant.

The old building has been redecorated, mixing japanase zen and nordic minimalism, the dining room being U-shaped around a patio.

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After having been warmly welcomed by Jordi Roca, very proud to guide us through his new kitchen, and having visited the new wine cellar, starts our meal.

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Having mislayed my notes, here are pictures (hi-res versions can be found here) of the "Festin" menu we had:

.Snacks

Olives

olives-200x300.jpg

Anchovies

anchois-300x200.jpg

Bloody Mary

bloodymary-225x300.jpg

Sesame cocoa cracker

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Tomato & tuna

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Razor shellPesto Parmesan

couteau-300x200.jpg

Foie gras turon

turon-200x300.jpg

.cherry soup / eel / ginger sorber

anguille-300x200.jpg

.Mussels on their rock

A Hit, it brings to you all the flavors from the seashore, including the "rock" actually tasting like…real rock!

moules-300x225.jpg

.Gambas on the beach

gambas-300x225.jpg

.Foie gras / caramelized apple/ sweet wine reduction / vanilla oil

foiegras-300x200.jpg

.Omelette / avruga / aniseed herbs

omelette-200x300.jpg

.Sole / fennel / bergamot / orange / hazelnut / olive / caramelized oil

sole-300x225.jpg

.Cod / tripe / gnocci / catalan soup

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.Lamb / pan con tomate

agneau-300x200.jpg

.Goose / foie gras cream / peachsauce

oie-300x225.jpg

.Smoked eggplant.

The other Hit of the day: the eggplant lays on a pierced cling film releasing some sort of smoke ( reminds me of the smoked cep ice cream, an other Jordi hit from 2001)

aubergine-300x200.jpg

.Green monochrome (cucumber - apple - mint)

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.Olive / vanilla / liquorice / caramel

A reel slap, as good (better) as it looks.

olive_vanille_reglisse_1-300x200.jpgolive_vanille_reglisse_2-300x200.jpg

.Trip to Havana.

We could not resist and ordered this classic as an extra.

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Less "surprising" than my previous ones, this meal was as delightful.

Apart from a little problem on the last red wine, the wine pairing had been promptly and very successfully handled.

vins1-300x57.jpg

Now that the dining-room suits the cooking, the third michelin star has never been so close !


Let Eat Be

Food, Wine & other Delights

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Finally, Can Roca has won the third michelin star.


Edited by PauloR (log)

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yes it is true! roca is now where it belongs the proud owner of 3 stars and great to hear Barcelona gaining another 2 star too at lasarte, i had a great meal and very attentive service dining there 3 months ago,big congratulations to Joan,Jordi and josep fantastic news :smile:

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I don't suppose any of you have any idea what the recipe for the olive oil and butter bread they serve here is? It was deeply excellent and I'd love to make some myself. I asked them for the recipe, but so far no reponse (not that I really expected one...).

Thanks.


Edited by camdan (log)

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Thanks to their third star, I was unabale to book 10 days in advance for a Friday lunch :-(.

I choose as alternative Can Fabes, which I never regret to go to, by the way.

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All good and well, but we got in Can Roca with one phone call....and they were wide open on any of the five days we had available. Sant Pau, on the other hand, is sold out on Fridays and Saturdays until September, and even getting in at lunch on a Tuesday took eight phone calls and booking a one day round-trip cross-country flight (Bilbao/Barca). Just sayin'.

I hope Can Roca rocks Can Fabes, because on our last trip to Fabes I saw nothing I hadn't cooked in France thirty years ago...and the paralytic fear that seemed to engulf the staff was contagious. Trying to engage our waiter about his feelings of that day's Espanyol/Barca match caused him to almost melt in fear. It was like trying to buy whiskey in Riadh. It was also nice when the chef emerged to yell at us for not being able to gag down the medium rare large octopus offering. I prefer happy restaurants, like Sant Pau....and am hoping for the best with Can Roca.

Oh....Can Fabes is an Espanyol outfit....which makes up for a lot. Don't tell the chef.

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Just had a (5-hour long!) lunch at Can Roca and all I can say is WOW WOW WOW.

One of the best meals of my life.

Will post a full report as soon as I have time, but for now, the dish-by-dish

post is on my blog, w names and pics of all the dishes...

Amazing!

Can Roca report

girona_celler_roca_tree.jpg


Alexandra Forbes

Brazilian food and travel writer, @aleforbes on Twitter

Official Website

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I finally returned to Can Roca after three years. The architecture at this new location is as impressive as the cooking! It was a very good (not superb) meal that I had last time, but this time, definitely one of the most memorable meals in my life. The Roca brothers have taken their cuisine to another level!

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There were too many highlights of the night:

An interactive snack requiring our own hand-picking of the caramelised olives.

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Pigeon liver parfait - a chocolate coated pigeon liver mousse.

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Artichoke - diced, puree, fried and surrounded by a creamy foie gras mousse with shavings of black truffle! Incredible mix of texture, brilliant combination of flavour, together with the truffle aroma and the richness of the foie gras - a perfect dish!

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A concentrated onion soup base with walnuts and fried onion then Comté velouté was poured on top. The cheese was strong by itself but blended well with the onion base. Furthermore, the nuts provided a lovely crunchy texture to the soup. Another amazing dish!

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A complex steak tartare which contained caper compote, pickles, lemon, hazelnut, raisin, meat béarnaise sauce, small balls of mustard ice cream and mustard leave garnish! We were instructed to start with the chives at the bottom, then move upward to spiced tomato, the smoked paprika, and to finish with Sichuan pepper! A sophisticated course!

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We requested for Jordi’s signature dessert. Here is his famous fragrance adaptation - DKNY. A mixture of mini balls of apple, pineapple, melon and ice made with flower and lime. Wow, it was really like eating perfume! What a seductive dessert!

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Our meal really reached its peak when Jordi took us on a Trip to Havana to experience a classic Cuban cocktail along with a Cuban cigar.

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The deconstructed mojito consisted of rum balls, citric sorbet, and mint granite. Then, a chocolate tube filled with Cuban cigar ice cream! Yes, ice cream infused with cigar smoke! You can't find more exciting food than this! Thanks to Jordi for giving us non-smokers a chance to experience cigar! This is the closest I came to smoking.

I have to agree that this is one of the best restaurants in the world!

See HERE for photos/videos of the full meal.


Fine Dining Explorer

www.finediningexplorer.com

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Any thoughts on the latest World's best restaurant list....El Celler is now 2nd only to Noma! I take such lists with a small pinch of salt but is nice to know that you've eaten at such an elevated level.....my trip to Denmark is pencilled in for next year... ;-)


Gav

"A man tired of London..should move to Essex!"

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