Kershaw Shun Knives

[kristin_71]

I just placed an order with MAC Knives. I went to their siteMAC Knife Inc

and printed out the form etc. I had no idea that they offer a discount to people buying their knives ( I am not sure if this is if you buy direct from them) but I couldn't get it becuase I sent a check. Well I got a phone call from someone there and they are going to throw in two extra knives, a nice cheese knife and a boning knife. I was completely impressed by them. The guy I spoke with even gave me advice on how to cut difficult veggies (rutabagas, turnips) using my chef's knife. I know that I will do business with them again and encourage all I know to do the same. I have posted this same thing in another thread but I wanted to put here.

I got a nice selection of knives that wil do more than meet my needs. I put the majority of my money on the Chef's knife, ( 9" very nice) santoku, santoku paring, deba and a filet knife for finer work. Like I said, they have been wonderful and said I will have my new knives this time next week. I cannot wait! Thank you to everyone for their advice.

Edited March 16, 2007 by kristin_71 (log)

[zaskar]

Of all the knives I have, and I have a lot. I would have only the Global 8" Chef's knife if I had to keep oe.

Their knives are great. They hold their sharpness for a long time.

[kristin_71]

They hold their sharpness for a long time.

I think that is true of Japanese knives as a whole. The quality is second to none. My mom has Wustof and while I like them, they do not hold their edge for a long time. I am trying to convince her to buy Japanese instead. I should point out that when I spoke to the guy at MAC and he told me that there was a discount, I quickly explained that I was not a professional cook and that they were for personal use. He gave me two extra knives anyways. Nice company to do business with. I was impressed.

Edited March 18, 2007 by kristin_71 (log)

[A Patric]

Shun knives have been mentioned a few times in this thread. One person mentioned the Ken Onion design. Does anyone have experience with the Ken Onion chef's knife; specifically, the 10 inch version?

I have been thinking about buying one for some time now, but I'd like to know from some people who have used them how they feel, how their weight is, and how sharp they really are, in addition to whether they really do seem to stay sharp longer. Basically, I want to know if everything that AB says about them is really accurate.

I currently own a Kyocera black ceramic chef's knife (8 inches I think), and would like something that is actually as sharp or sharper, has more weight, is longer, and stays sharp for a very long time, as one thing that I do like about the Kyoceras is how long they stay sharp (for a very, very long time)

Any thoughts?

[Octaveman]

Any thoughts?

A few. I haven't had any experience with the Ken Onion but I have had the chance to feel the regular 10" chef out and to me was noticably blade heavy. Maybe someone out there who has the KO will chime in about the design.

Shun's are really good knives but like any knife made of steel, the edge will start to give way. What knives stay sharper can be largely subjective since you're also at the mercy of your knife skills and how you use them. Coming from using ceramic knives, it wouldn't be prudent to think that the Shun's will mimic the "never needing sharpening" that is pitched with ceramic knives.

Ceramic knives have many flaws. Steel bladed knives have flaws too. The biggest one is that they need to be sharpened on occasion. The steel that's used will either make you have to sharpen often or not so often. The steel that's used will either get and hold it's edge longer than other blades or it won't. The steel Shun uses is not a magical steel that keeps it's edge for a very very long time. VG10 is a great stainless steel and WILL stay sharper and for longer than any Euro knife but your style will be a contributing factor to how long that edge will last. I can safely say that the Shun can get sharper that your ceramic knife so no worries there. It will need periodic maintenance to keep it that way, though, but that's just the nature of the beast. It's not a carefree tool. It will need periodic sharpening.

Shun's are a really good brand of knives. There are some things about them I don 't care for but that's just me. The VG10 steel they use is top notch giving near carbon steel performance in a stainless. I feel there are better knives out there for cheaper but if the KO design is what you're considering then those knives can't compare as the KO design is definately unique.

Edited May 15, 2007 by Octaveman (log)

[A Patric]

Hi Octaveman,

Thanks for your comments. Just last night I was slicing through a tomato with my Kyocera like, well, like a hot knife through butter, and I was thinking if these Shun knives can actually be sharper, then I will be incredibly happy. I understand that one needs to steel them regularly, but in terms of actually honing them with a sharpening stone, do you think that this would be necessary multiple times per year, or the once per year that Alton claims? The knife would get moderate use on a plastic or wooden cutting board, and I wouldn't do anything dumb with it.

Any other Shun comments from the gallery?

Best,

Alan

[mrsadm]

Kristin, I'm sure you will enjoy your MAC knives. My husband and I love ours, and I have tried a lot of other Japanese knives - and I love many of those too. I'm probably odd one out here because the Tojiro DP Chef's knife is not a favorite, not that it is a bad knife, I just don't like the feel of it in my hand.

Let us know how you like them when you start using them!

[Octaveman]

Alan, wow!, I must have overlooked your post entirely back then. It was the day after my birthday so I might have been in a fog still. Sorry for not seeing it when you posted. Did you decide on Shun? How often you sharpen will depend on how you use them and how often you use them. Alton claims once per year? That's quite funny. He's probably taking into account steeling but a year is a bit out there IMHO. I sharpen my knives about once per month but it's mostly touch-ups and not a complete sharpening because they're so dull they can't cut anything right. That happens every few months for me.

I'd say with very light steeling with a smooth glass steel (not groved, not ceramic, not diamond), your edge would last a few months. If your already sharpening with stones, the steel isn't necessary really. Pull out a high grit stone and lightly take a few swipes on both sides. Few minutes is all it takes.

[A Patric]

Alan, wow!, I must have overlooked your post entirely back then.  It was the day after my birthday so I might have been in a fog still.  Sorry for not seeing it when you posted.  Did you decide on Shun?  How often you sharpen will depend on how you use them and how often you use them.  Alton claims once per year?  That's quite funny.  He's probably taking into account steeling but a year is a bit out there IMHO.  I sharpen my knives about once per month but it's mostly touch-ups and not a complete sharpening because they're so dull they can't cut anything right.  That happens every few months for me.

I'd say with very light steeling with a smooth glass steel (not groved, not ceramic, not diamond), your edge would last a few months.  If your already sharpening with stones, the steel isn't necessary really.  Pull out a high grit stone and lightly take a few swipes on both sides.  Few minutes is all it takes.

←

No problem at all.

As I was reading through your post I started wondering if I had misrepresented what Alton Brown said though. So, I went back to the video where he talks about the Shuns:

http://www.altonbrown.com/shun/shun_flv_sm.html

Indeed, he says that he uses a "honing" steel once per week, and then sends all of his knives out for professional sharpening once per year. Is this due to the type of steel, or do you still think that this is a bit of a stretch? If you have the time to watch the short video, you'll see what I mean by steel type.

Also I am not familiar with the different types of honing steels. Could you tell me if that Shun honing steel in the video that he is using is a "smooth glass steel," as I've never heard that phrase, and admit my ignorance here. I don't know if you are talking about something that is literally glass.

By the way, I haven't purchase the knife yet. I'm saving my pennies.

Thank you again for the help,

Alan

[Octaveman]

The steel he's using is not a glass smooth steel. Hand American is where you can get them. It's basically a smooth rod to use to get your edge back into alignment. A few light, no pressure swipes on both sides and your edge is back into alignment and still intact. By using a grooved, diamond or ceramic steel, the surface will straighten the edge out of course but it will also start to eat away at your original edge. The edge then becomes more "toothy" and while many people think that's a good thing (and it can be) it's something that if done repeatedly will actually dull your knife quicker because it's removing more and more metal with each swipe. Not good when all you want to do is realign your already sharp edge. The smooth steel will not do any of the above other than put your edge back straight. I have one and use it very infrequently but that's because I just pull out a stone to hone my knives and in doing so, I also get a quick refresher sharpening too. I do use it when I'm mostly in the middle of something and notice the edge to be a tad dull.

Once per year is a huge stretch. How often the steel is used and how often you sharpen is completely dependant on your knife skills and how much you use the blades. Shun knives are not that hard to only require once/year sharpenings. I have a very expensive, very hard knife that is considered the best you can get and I still sharpen it every few months. Keep in mind he's selling something. I feel there are better knives out there.

Edited June 14, 2007 by Octaveman (log)

[A Patric]

Well, in that case, if you are still willing to answer my incessant questions:

What I'm looking for is a nice long chef's knife (10"), that is very sharp (read a fair amount sharper than the black ceramic knife that I have), needs to be resharpened as little as possible (I understand what you are saying about technique impacting that) so I guess that means it is made with a hard steel, something that doesn't rust, and lastly, a a knife with a nice balance to it that feels good to hold.

I understand that any steel knife will need some sharpening, but I don't want to be bothered to have to get it sharpened often. I don't trust that I would be able to sharpen it myself without damaging the edge more than helping it.

Is there such an animal out there, or am I looking for the impossible?

Thanks again,

Alan

[Octaveman]

Budget?

Let me add something else too. I'm not trying to make you spend more than you want but a Chef's knife is your most used knife therefore the most amount of money should be spent on this knife. I can recommend knives that are under $100 but there is one that is about $200 that will fit what you're looking for. The knives under $100 are no slouches so don't feel you HAVE to spend that much to get a good knife. This thread has some good discussions as to what knife to buy too.

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=97416

Also, since learning the skill of sharpening on stones is not an option I can recommend only two places that know how to sharpen Japanese knives and do so by hand. These are the only two places I would trust with my knives.

www.epicureanedge.com

and

D & R Sharpening

Edited June 15, 2007 by Octaveman (log)

[A Patric]

Budget? 

Let me add something else too.  I'm not trying to make you spend more than you want but a Chef's knife is your most used knife therefore the most amount of money should be spent on this knife.  I can recommend knives that are under $100 but there is one that is about $200 that will fit what you're looking for.  The knives under $100 are no slouches so don't feel you HAVE to spend that much to get a good knife.  This thread has some good discussions as to what knife to buy too.

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=97416

Also, since learning the skill of sharpening on stones is not an option I can recommend only two places that know how to sharpen Japanese knives and do so by hand.  These are the only two places I would trust with my knives.

www.epicureanedge.com

and

D & R Sharpening

←

I don't want to say that budget is no issue, because everyone has a limit, but I am not looking for something under $100. You're right, I do use my chef's knife more than any other knife, and so I want something that, in terms of quality, will be one of my favorite kitchen-related items, and probably my most used. Something over $200 is fine. Now if you start suggesting 17th century Damascus steel butcher knives, then maybe I need to be a bit clearer about price range.

Alan

[Octaveman]

Okay, good. The length will either be 240mm (9.5") or 270mm (10.5"). My personal view and experience is that if you use a pinch grip on the knife you lose about 30mm of usable edge at the heel because you'd be cutting up food right below your fingers and who likes that? Not me...that's why I prefer a 270mm. I can choke up with a pinch grip and still have plenty of edge to use. This is my prefered length for just about everything including mincing garlic and shallots.

Now, for the ideas to consider:

Hiromoto AS

Item# TJ-20AS or TJ-15AS depending on your preference is an outstanding knife. What makes it outstanding is it has a super blue carbon steel core surrounded or clad by stainless. Only the exposed core will form a patina and rust if you leave it out wet and don't wash/dry it when you're done using it. I know you said you didn't want it to rust, well, then wash it and dry it when you're done. It won't rust upon contact with water. Blue steel is somewhat resistant to staining and rusting over other carbon steels. At any rate, this knife will give you carbon steel performance in a near stainless knife. Great knife and a toss up between this and the Blazen but....

Ryusen Blazen

This knife has a powdered tool steel blade and is very strong with great edge-holding capabilities. It is stainless, has great blade geometry, has great fit and finish and it comes with a saya (blade sheath).

Kikuichi

Top notch stainless knife from a company with a long history.

Yoshikane

This is one styled different in that it has the traditional Japanse styled handle on it. The blade though is what makes this one stand out. It uses SKD die tool steel and is truely one of the best blades out there in terms of toughness and edge retention. The only thing about this knife is that the handle is not a great one. People I know who have bought this knife have sent it HERE to have the handle replaced. Knives with handles like these are easy to get used to specially if you use a pinch grip. Awesome blade very worthy of consideration.

Kanetsugu Pro-M

These are surprisingly nice for the money. I've never tried them but people who have felt they are a really good knife. Nothing super special about them, just quality made and come nicely sharpened OOTB.

Mizuno Hontanren Series

If you think you may consider a carbon steel blade (which is better than stainless in terms of performance) then item# GF-30 is what I would highly recommend. Hand made blades that are made with the highest quality standard. Again, this is a carbon blade so it will patina and it could rust if you are abusive. A definate knife to consider if carbon steel is an option. No need for handle replacement...perfect as is and you get to choose what color ferrule too.

[tim]

Bob,

Do any of the Japanese knives come with a pronounced German rocker? I really like the rocker on the Messermeister Elites.

Tim

[Octaveman]

Japanese gyuto's have more of a French shape than a German shape. Shun is the only one I can think of that is more of a German shape. I use my gyuto's in a rocking motion all the time and never had a ny issues with the tip sticking in the board. Plenty of room for rocking...at least in the longer knives.

[A Patric]

Octaveman,

Thanks again for the info. I've been looking at knives at the urls you sent me to, reading the other thread that you sent me to, and I have been thinking about knives as well. Based on your experience, it seems that a carbon steel knife won't be a problem for me. I was under the impression that they would rust far more easily, and that I would constantly have to oil them. I use my chef's knife a lot, and the last thing I'd want to do is add 30 minutes a day of upkeep. However, one thing that I already do is wash and dry my current ceramic knife right when I'm done with it. So, it sounds like, since I don't have a problem with any patina that might form, that I shouldn't have a problem with a carbon steel knife.

That said, I have also noticed a couple of other things that I do really look for in a knife. One of them was mentioned above. I like to be able to rock the knife as I'm chopping things such as garlic, ginger, etc. My current knife has enough of a curve to the blade to allow this, but isn't as curved as the "german style" knives that I've seen people link to, but it does seem more german-like. The curve of my blade is exactly like the chef's knife at the bottom of this page:

https://secure.kyoceraadvancedceramics.com/...p-damascus.aspx

Also, I've noticed that I wish my knife would have a stubbier tip to make it easier for me to scoop up chopped bits of things and toss them into a bowl, or onto a plate. In that sense, it seems like I prefer the santoku-style tip, since it is wider and stubbier. Sorry if my adjectives aren't helping here.

Anyway, I notice that you mention that santoku knives are almost always shorter than gyuto knives, and I do want something more in the 10" range, so here is my question:

Is there a chef's knife that is about 10" long, made of extremely hard carbon steel, that is screamingly sharp, has a more European-style handle, with a more German-style rock (though not necessarily flat-backed), that has a more stumpy tip like the santoku, and has a very nice balance?

I have a feeling that I am asking way too much here, but I'll give it a shot anyway, since if one is going to spend a decent amount on a knife, it might as well be exactly what one wants.

Thanks again,

Alan

[Octaveman]

I think carbon steel will be fine for you. I never oil mine. I just make sure to dry them well before putting them back into the block. I have but a few brief points on your questions/thoughts that would be simpler to just list them.

1. The Kyocera knife you have is the same shape as a Japanese gyuto.

2. Honestly, pretty much any chef knife no matter how flat a profile will rock just fine with garlic. This is because the knife just does not get very high to chop said garlic. Now rocking with a large onion is a different story. The longer the length, the easier it is to get the food under the knife because of the higher fulcrum (or something like that).

3. A Santoku has a stubby tip which makes it a bad rocker. Better suited to push/cut style.

4. There are longer santoku's out there but it's not the ideal shape for you since you want a rocking knife. The average 270mm gyuto width is about 54mm from spine to edge (at the heel) so this will give you an idea as to scoopability. Pretty wide.

5. BUT!!! There is an option and is an outstanding option since carbon is now the steel of choice. See the first suggestion.

Takeda Hamono

Click on Online Catalog on the left and then click on Kitchen Knives. Then click on the Gyuto.

This makers knives have incredibly good steel and are what I feel one of the top carbon steel knives out there today. You want screaming sharp? You want a wide knife for scooping? You want it with high HRC? You want a stubbier tip? You want high quality craftsmanship? You want high quality materials? Look no further.

1. The black part is called kuro-uchi and is the unfinished side of the blade after forging. It will not rust, it does not come off on your food, it has a rustic look and feel to it that I find extremely unique and appealing.

2. You cannot pay for it online. You have to send an international postal money order to them. No worries about the process though. I've done it and nobody has had any issues with lost payments or not getting their knife. You should feel comfortable with the process.

3. They do semi custom requests. What you want is the gyuto "with more belly". I made this request and they gave me a knife that had a taller profile and is a great rocker.

4. You want the AS version wich is the Blue Super or Aogomi Super (AS). Tough as hell steel.

5. What you do to order is put the 240mm AS in your cart and fill out the form. In the comments section tell them you do not want a 240 but you want a 270mm "with more belly". Those are the magic words. They will send you an email back with the quote for your knife. You send the money order to them and if they have the knife in stock they will send it off and you'll have it in about a week from the time they get their money. If they don't have it in stock, they will make one. In that case it will take about 2-3 weeks.

Here's the one problem with Takeda's knives for you...this knife does not have a european handle design. Given the fact that you're trying to find the holy grail of knife for you this one comes about as close as your going to get without spending 3x's as much for a custom knife.

Masamoto Virgin Carbon Steel at JCK in Japan

Masamoto Virgin Carbon Steel at Korin in NY

This is an option too. I've heard good things about the blade perfromance but have not heard great things about the fit and finish. The handle at times has not been the greatest. I've never used or seen it so I can't comment first hand. It does give you the standard euro handle.

[coquus]

Octaveman, no disrespect, but fulcrum may not be what he's talking about. I think I understand what you are saying by fulcrum, tip on the board, but I think he's trying to maintain a rocker motion. I have had a little trouble creating the rocker motion, but I think it's because I've been so sensitive about wrecking the edge I'm trying to maintain, the belly is enough that you can get a rocker, you just have to move the guide hand a bit further down the blade than you would a German knife, it's a little more difficult, but it is worth it because how much of that do you do anyway.

[Octaveman]

That's okay, don't worry about it. I probably am not conveying what I'm thinking into words correctly. I'm actually not sure why Alan was concerned about rocking his knife with garlic when the tip becomes problematic when rocking with much larger items. A longer knife gives the user the flexibility of using those larger items because the fulcrum is yada yada yada. I rock my knives with large items all the time so this really shouldn't be much of a concern. And you're right, moving the food closer to the heel will help make the motion easier with larger foods. I think my main point I was trying to make was that it's easier to rock with longer knives than short ones...so a "German rocker shape" is irrelevant to being an effective rocker. Does that make sense? It does in MY head.

Edited June 17, 2007 by Octaveman (log)

[A Patric]

Sorry, should have been clearer about what I want to cut with the rocking motion. I also cut things like onion, tomatoes, or other items that require me to be able to lift the knife up higher without catching the tip in the cutting board as someone mentioned above. I don't know why I only mentioned smaller items up top.

Anyway, that is one nice looking knife at the Takeda Hamono site. Am I understanding that that knife may only be about $150? That seems very inexpensive compared to many others. I guess that I could try out the Japanese-style handle, and get it switched for something else if I don't like it in the end. I think that I read a post of yours where you said that is possible to have some other company change the handle?? Anyway, that knife is a bit flatter on the bottom than I would like, but if by saying "with more belly" that will give it a bit more rocking capability, then that would be great.

Anyway, do you know what the Rockwell hardness is of that steel?

Alan

[Octaveman]

Yes, the original profile is pretty flat and many people find that a plus but they're using a push/cut style or basically like a santoku would be used. Asking for more belly does make it a rocker. One can change handles of the same type. Changing from a traditional to a western handle is not an option because the tang is completely different. I suppose it can be done but at significant cost. I'm not a handle maker so I could be wrong on this though. Send EE.com an email and ask them as I know they do make western style handles too. Rockwell on Takeda's AS knives is 61-63. Takea uses a 1:1 exchange rate as they have misc fees/taxes they charge in addition to the cost of the blade. A 270mm gyuto would be closer to $200 shipped. If you get your knife with more belly and you find it doesn't rock enough for you, you can send it to DR Sharpening and have the blade reground too. Just an option to help you keep the knife if you get it. I hate to see someone unhappy with their knives and always try to recommend a fix if the knife is worthy. Takeda's knives are worthy.

[A Patric]

Yes, the original profile is pretty flat and many people find that a plus but they're using a push/cut style or basically like a santoku would be used.  Asking for more belly does make it a rocker.  One can change handles of the same type.  Changing from a traditional to a western handle is not an option because the tang is completely different.  I suppose it can be done but at significant cost.  I'm not a handle maker so I could be wrong on this though.  Send EE.com an email and ask them as I know they do make western style handles too.  Rockwell on Takeda's AS knives is 61-63.  Takea uses a 1:1 exchange rate as they have misc fees/taxes they charge in addition to the cost of the blade.  A 270mm gyuto would be closer to $200 shipped.  If you get your knife with more belly and you find it doesn't rock enough for you, you can send it to DR Sharpening and have the blade reground too.  Just an option to help you keep the knife if you get it.  I hate to see someone unhappy with their knives and always try to recommend a fix if the knife is worthy.  Takeda's knives are worthy.

←

Octaveman,

Well I e-mailed EE, and they told me that it would be quite expensive to change the handle on a knife of that quality. It could easily triple the current price of the knife depending upon the handle type.

So, it looks like I won't be doing that. I am still very strongly considering this knife though, but I have a few of other related questions:

1) What would the balance be like on a knife like that? Since EE says that the tang is significantly shorter, I assume that the blade of the knife will have considerably more weight to it than the handle. This is probably the case for most 10"+ knives, but how much of a difference do you think there will be when compared to European-style knives? I know I am talking in such generalities here, but I think you can see where I'm coming from. I'm trying to imagine how the knife will feel in my hand as a I hold it.

2) Regarding the Japanese style knife handles, what is the theory behind their design, and how do you find the geometry of the Takeda handle? (i.e., the octagonal shape).

3) Regarding the handle wood, is Rosewood a strong and durable choice?

4) Regarding the cutting edge of the knife, I don't know if there is a standard for Japanese knives. Is it a double bevel, v-edge, chisel edge, something else?

5) Finally, as I was reading Chad Ward's piece on knife care, this comment stuck out:

Carbon steel kitchen knives generally are a little harder and stronger than stainless steel kitchen knives. They are easy to sharpen and take a screaming edge. And while the patina that develops on a carbon knife can be unsightly (unless you like that sort of thing), it isn’t unsanitary.

But in the wet, acidic environment of the kitchen, stainless rules. For all their faults, compromises and shortcomings, stainless steel kitchen knives work better and will hold their edges longer than carbon steel knives.

Doesn’t make sense, does it?

The culprit is corrosion – the effect of acid and micro-rusting. Even on what appears to be a mirror-bright, razor sharp edge, microscopic particles of rust and corrosion will form, attacking the edge and reducing its performance. Unless carbon steel knives are rinsed and dried frequently, their edges will degrade rapidly in kitchen use. The stainless edge will easily outlast them. 

According to chef and knife maker Thomas Haslinger, “Acids of fruit and vegetables are fairly aggressive and will dull a carbon blade more quickly than stainless. The acid actually eats the edge.”

Do you find this to be true? Is there any clarification that needs to be added to the above statement, or should it truly be taken at face value? I'm wondering if cutting acidic items and then rinsing and wiping the knife immediately will really still lead to microscopic corrosion that will quickly damage the edge as compared to stainless, and if so, then is the benefit of carbon steel simply that it can more easily be re-sharpened to a sharper edge?

Once more I thank you for your thoughts,

Alan

Edited for spelling

Edited June 19, 2007 by A Patric (log)

[Octaveman]

Well I e-mailed EE, and they told me that it would be quite expensive to change the handle on a knife of that quality.  It could easily triple the current price of the knife depending upon the handle type.

Yeah, that's what I thought.

1) What would the balance be like on a knife like that?  Since EE says that the tang is significantly shorter, I assume that the blade of the knife will have considerably more weight to it than the handle.  This is probably the case for most 10"+ knives, but how much of a difference do you think there will be when compared to European-style knives?  I know I am talking in such generalities here, but I think you can see where I'm coming from.  I'm trying to imagine how the knife will feel in my hand as a I hold it. 

One of the trademarks of Takeda's knives is that they are lightweight. The 270mm will be blade heavy but then that's a relative term when you try to compare blade heaviness with a German knife. IOW, there difference is significant and would be less prevalent with the Takeda. Actually, if you use it as a rocker, the blade will be resting on the board anyway, right? You won't even notice the balance issue.

2) Regarding the Japanese style knife handles, what is the theory behind their design, and how do you find the geometry of the Takeda handle? (i.e., the octagonal shape).

The octagon handle shape is very easy to hold and because of it's shape one can get a secure grip with little problem. It won't take long at all to get used to it.

3) Regarding the handle wood, is Rosewood a strong and durable choice?

Yes, very good material for handles. Very rich in color and very well made along with the buffalo horn ferrule.

4) Regarding the cutting edge of the knife, I don't know if there is a standard for Japanese knives.  Is it  a double bevel, v-edge, chisel edge, something else?

There are basically two standards with Japanese knives. Traditional Japanese knives are chisel ground and have a single wide bevel. Western style are double beveled with some makers grinding them 50/50 or 70/30 or 80/20 and maybe even 90/10 but that is up to the maker. I'm pretty sure Takeda's gyuto's are 50/50

5) Finally, as I was reading Chad Ward's piece on knife care, this comment stuck out:

Carbon steel kitchen knives generally are a little harder and stronger than stainless steel kitchen knives. They are easy to sharpen and take a screaming edge. And while the patina that develops on a carbon knife can be unsightly (unless you like that sort of thing), it isn’t unsanitary.

But in the wet, acidic environment of the kitchen, stainless rules. For all their faults, compromises and shortcomings, stainless steel kitchen knives work better and will hold their edges longer than carbon steel knives.

Doesn’t make sense, does it?

The culprit is corrosion – the effect of acid and micro-rusting. Even on what appears to be a mirror-bright, razor sharp edge, microscopic particles of rust and corrosion will form, attacking the edge and reducing its performance. Unless carbon steel knives are rinsed and dried frequently, their edges will degrade rapidly in kitchen use. The stainless edge will easily outlast them. 

According to chef and knife maker Thomas Haslinger, “Acids of fruit and vegetables are fairly aggressive and will dull a carbon blade more quickly than stainless. The acid actually eats the edge.”

Do you find this to be true? Is there any clarification that needs to be added to the above statement, or should it truly be taken at face value? I'm wondering if cutting acidic items and then rinsing and wiping the knife immediately will really still lead to microscopic corrosion that will quickly damage the edge as compared to stainless, and if so, then is the benefit of carbon steel simply that it can more easily be re-sharpened to a sharper edge?

I would agree with this but the amount of degrediation of the blade is so minute that honestly you would remove more metal just by periodic sharpening than acid eating your blade...even for the length of time it's present on the blade before rinsing. It is always a good idea to cut something up and then rinse your knife before moving on the the next item. I do that all the time. I oftentimes rinse it off and set it on the counter while I gather stuff out of the fridge to cut next. I don't view it as any kind of a problem or issue with owning carbon steel. I'm not sure what steels Chad is referring to when he says SS gets sharper and stays sharper longer than carbon. Aogomi Super is a very tough steel and will stay sharp for a long time and in my experience it stays sharper than any stainless knife I have...well except for my Hattori KD.

Once more I thank you for your thoughts,

Alan

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My pleasure.

[A Patric]

  Aogomi Super is a very tough steel and will stay sharp for a long time and in my experience it stays sharper than any stainless knife I have...well except for my Hattori KD. 

I just looked that one up. I had actually come across it on-line when search around. That looks like a nice knife for sure. Little bit above my budget though I'm afraid.

Anyway, the more I look into the Takeda, the more I've been thinking about learning to sharpen myself. I have come across the Edge Pro, and it looks like that might take a lot of the fear I have about ruining a beautiful knife out of the equation. I have seen some other people on eGullet talk about how much they love their Edge Pros. Do you have any thoughts on them?

Best,

Alan