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Thomas Keller's "Bouchon" Cookbook


Bond Girl

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I was given this book for Christmas and have lusted over the photos.  Today I jumped in and tried the quiche and lo and behold, about a third of the filling leaked out onto the jellyroll pan I was smart enough to have (after reading this thread, thank you).

I had thought using a 9 x 3 springform pan would work, but the side was too tall to cover with the crust, so that it did droop down in the blind baking.

Tonight I have broken down and ordered the ring mold from Sur La Table and will not disobey Mr. Keller again.

Didn't know this was a common problem. Thought it was just me. I used a turkey baster to refill the pan with the leaked out filling. It was awful. Eventually, the leakage starts to coagulate outside of the pan so that it insulated it from leaking further. Another problem was that the dough had shrunk away from the sides, so the leakage was also outside of the crust as well. Next time, I'm just going to use store bought puff pastry. I really suck at dough.

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I can't believe that I have managed to miss this thread thus far! I have cooked extensively from both Bouchon and TFL. I agree that Bouchon is the more accessible and the one I most often repeat from. I tend to use TFL for fancier entertaining and special occasion cooking.

I agree that the quiche is a revelation. It really blew me away and made me regret every calorie laden, keeping-me-out-of-my-skinny-jeans, bite of the inferior quiches of my life. I mean it makes you want to cry it was that good. Luckily I had the mold called for so the first came out beautifully much to my surprise since I am generally frightened of making pie crusts.

Onion soup was very good but cutting all of those onions ... not so fun :blink: .

The herb gnocchi are absolutely wonderful. I prefer the pate choux to the potato version generally. They are so light and versatile. I've always got a bag in the freezer now. I vary the cheese and the herbs for different preparations. I used to make this with someone else. We'd alternate with one of us doing the piping and the other the cutting over the cooking water but now I think nothing of making them at home alone.

The roast chicken is fabulous and simplicity itself. His technique is almost identical to Judy Rodgers in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook (with the difference being brining versus pre-salting). I frequently make this with the bread salad from TZC which I really like.

I haven't tried the pig trotters and frankly never thought that I would until I read the posts here. There next on my list!

I made the duck confit about two weeks ago. Eight of them are destined for a Superbowl Party cassoulet. I will probably use the remainder for the brussel sprouts recipe in Bouchon but not until I've gotten this cassoulet bug out of my system. I wish TK had a cassoulet recipe. But I've cobbled something together from ideas in eG and several of my other cookbooks. The same friend who has shared the gnocchi making with me is doing the cassoulet with me. It should be fun as it's my first from scratch cassoulet! GO BEARS!

The beef bourguignon recipe made me want to smack myself - several times - very hard! His recipe is almost exactly the same as what I do. It's something I've really thought about over the years. It is a royal pain in the a** because it never occured to me to separate the vegetables from the meat using cheese cloth. No, what I have been doing for way too many years is removing every single piece of meat, by hand, from the pot. Then straining the sauce and vegetables. Then cleaning the pot and returning the meat and sauce to the pan and discarding the vegetables. I cannot believe I actually out-analled TK!!!

Kate

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The leek and blue cheese quiche (before warming it for my husband's dinner...my MIL and I ate ours earlier).

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Plated (after heating).

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It was fabulous...like no other quiche I ever had. Though my husband is not one who oohs and aahs over food, he did say it made him want to eat quiche. My MIL and I made way too much noise, could not help but sigh or MMMMM after each and every bite. Wonderful recipe. It seemed like a lot of work, doing it for the first time, but I see how it will become easier and easier.

If it were not for eGullet and all the stories about others adventures and misadventures and what was learned from them, I would not have done so well with my first attempt. I have learned so much from this thread. Thanks.

Donna

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It is always great to see more quiche-converts! You did an awsome job eldereno.

BTW, Russ a springform pan is fine if it is the right size. The problem is that most people have the 3 inch deep ones and that one is too big.

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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  • 3 weeks later...

I imagine it would be good with cherry brioche. I made Keller's brioche which was a first for me as well.

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I did not have any apricots so I didn't bother with the compote and really, it's rich enough just as it is!

Edited by Marlene (log)

Marlene

Practice. Do it over. Get it right.

Mostly, I want people to be as happy eating my food as I am cooking it.

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gallery_6080_205_84646.jpg

I did not have any apricots so I didn't bother with the compote and really, it's rich enough just as it is!

So happy to see a photo of the brioche from Bouchon cookbook. I've made the brioche from one of Ina Gartner's cookbooks and plan to try the recipe from the Bouchon cookbook. Always like to see what is expected as the final product! Your final product looks lovely!!!

Donna

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It is always great to see more quiche-converts! You did an awsome job eldereno.

Thank you, FoodMan. I have plans to do the spinach one next. Thinking about taking quiche to a friend's St. Patrick's Day Party in March. Anyone have an Irish twists for a filling? Maybe saute'd cabbage with cubed ham and ?what kind of cheese??????

Donna

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It is always great to see more quiche-converts! You did an awsome job eldereno.

Thank you, FoodMan. I have plans to do the spinach one next. Thinking about taking quiche to a friend's St. Patrick's Day Party in March. Anyone have an Irish twists for a filling? Maybe saute'd cabbage with cubed ham and ?what kind of cheese??????

How about leeks and Irish ham or bacon, lots of fresh parsley, garlic, green garlic if possible and fresh bay leaves? I don't know why, but the cabbage in a quiche doesn't strike the right cord for me - I'm thinking along the lines of a slight Irish ingredient riff on the classic Quiche Lorraine. I'm stuck on the choice of cheese, though. A personal plea for mushrooms, which I adore in a Quiche and perfectly gorgeous mushrooms are found in Ireland.

Rover

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Donna-

The brioche from Bouchon is the best Brioche recipe I've made as well. The idea of wrapping the whole loaf in plastic at the end and let it rest might sound weird, but like most of Keller's tricks, it works.

Cabbage in quiche?? mmm...I would not do it :smile:. I like the idea of Irish bacon or even thick sliced Canadian bacon and maybe sauteed onions, potatoes and chard. The idea of cabbage and eggs makes me queasy, but who knows it might work.

Cheese: White cheddar.

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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Good ideas, all! Thanks Rover, FoodMan, Kouign Aman. I guess when I thought about the cabbage, I remembered the silky texture of the leeks in the first guiche I made...after they had been blanched. I thought, if I shaved the cabbage finely and blanched in the same way (being careful not to use TOO much) that it would be a mild flavor in the background BUT still recognizable. Sure....not sure the mix with the egg would be very appealing. Loved the texture of the leeks in the original, so keeping that going would be great. Not so sure I can find Irish bacon in my town but ham would work. Anyone have any thoughts on the addition of finely diced cooked potatoes? Do think I have seen Dubliner cheese at the store so may try that or an Irish cheddar.

Going to do the Spinach quiche this weekend. Bought fresh spinach. BUT has anyone tried this with frozen (the extra moisture squeezed out, of course)?

Will post photos if all goes well (or maybe even if they don't go well!!!!). :biggrin:

Donna

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Unable to find Compte cheese anywhere around here so plan to substitute Gruyere. Sure wish there were better cheese selection around here. Even the Roquefort for the first quiche was difficult to find. Found some the first time but have had a hard time locating it since. So hit or miss at the stores around here!

Donna

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Good ideas, all!  Thanks Rover, FoodMan, Kouign Aman.  I guess when I thought about the cabbage, I remembered the silky texture of the leeks in the first guiche I made...after they had been blanched.  I thought, if I shaved the cabbage finely and blanched in the same way (being careful not to use TOO much) that it would be a mild flavor in the background BUT still recognizable.  Sure....not sure the mix with the egg would be very appealing.  Loved the texture of the leeks in the original, so keeping that going would be great.  Not so sure I can find Irish bacon in my town but ham would work.  Anyone have any thoughts on the addition of finely diced cooked potatoes?  Do think I have seen Dubliner cheese at the store so may try that or an Irish cheddar. 

Going to do the Spinach quiche this weekend.  Bought fresh spinach.  BUT has anyone tried this with frozen (the extra moisture squeezed out, of course)?

Will post photos if all goes well (or maybe even if they don't go well!!!!). :biggrin:

You have such an array of great ideas, Eldereno. I was tempted to suggest potatoes, but had a mental picture of them sinking like stones to the base of the quiche, regardless of cut. I did wonder about thinly sliced ones, but I concluded they'd loose their identity in a quiche scenario... I wouldn't worry about keeping strictly to the Irish food mythology - some very contemporary food preparation and ideas are coming out of Ireland. Ireland is reknown for its top quality of vegetables, dairy, shellfish, fish and local lamb. Darina Allen at Ballymaloe has been producing amazing food for years.

You're going to knock 'em sideways with your fabulous quiche regardless of what combination of flavours you choose.

You know that mussels are particularly gorgeous in Ireland, don't you?

Rover...

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Going to do the Spinach quiche this weekend. Bought fresh spinach. BUT has anyone tried this with frozen (the extra moisture squeezed out, of course)?

Absolutely. I almost never use fresh spinach for cooking. I've used frozen with this quiche every time I made it. Just thaw, squeeze as dry as possible and also sautee in a little butter for a few minutes before adding to the mix.

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com

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despite what that idiot ruhlman says (and thomas and the rest), i had fine luck making the quiche with a springform pan ring. the MOST important thing is not trying to roll the dough out too thin.

I have made the quiche in both a springform pan and the ring mold and both times the quiche and the crust came out perfectly. The only problem I had with the springform pan is not having enough dough to reach the top of the pan.

I do make one change to the dough recipe, I use 1/3 part rendered pork leaf lard and 2/3 butter ILO all butter. The lard makes for a lovely rich crust that goes well with the savory quiche.

The one comment that Rulhman makes which I follow is to have everything ready to go when the blind baked crust comes out of the oven so that the crust can be filled while it is still hot - it helps to have the custard at room temperature or warmer. The quicker the custard can set the less likely a leak will develop.

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The spinach quiche post bake.

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Served. I was a little disappointed that the spinach all seemed to migrate to the top.

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I did get a little leakage this time.....not the kind that got all over the pan but just a little under the crust. I actually blind baked the crust the night before I made the filling for it. Just let it sit at room temperature covered with a towel. Maybe that is why.?.?.?

I have to admit that the texture was wonderful BUT I really liked the taste of the the roquefort and leek one better. My husband and MIL, though, thought it was just as good. Guess I like stronger flavors.

edited to comment on the flavor.

Edited by eldereno (log)

Donna

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  • 2 months later...

Just a note to comment on the quiches made for the St. Patrick's Day party I attended. Made the leek and blue cheese filling (because I love it) but could not find roquefort so used gorgonzola dolce. For the other I used diced ham, a little leek, and the Dubliner cheddar. It was the favorite!! Had a little, but not much, leakage....did not ruin the look, I'm happy to say. Very successful contribution. All were impressed.

Haven't done much else from the cookbook since but am ready to jump in again. Trotters in my future?

Donna

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  • 2 months later...

I have made the quiche several times using the pastry ring, and luckily, I've never had a leak. I have to say, however, that on at least two occassions, I screwed up and put in both cups of flour before adding the butter, and I personally have found the dough is easier to work with in the end.

Every time I make the quiche, my SO makes Keller's Bibb lettuce salad. This is a perfect foil to the richness of the quiche - try it!

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  • 2 months later...

I notice that if I set my 9x3 inch springform pan down on top of a saucer so the bottom was pushed up, and then tightened it, it formed a perfect 9x2 pan, so I decided to try that. :biggrin:

BAD IDEA! Everything was fine when I baked it with the weights, but a few minutes in to the 2nd bake I checked it and the bottom had inflated like a hot air balloon; as high as the rim. I hastily replaced the weights, and the moved them in and out a few times until the bottom appeared to harden. Needless to say, this created some weak spots, even though no obvious holes, and I had some nasty leaks.

It still came out very nice though; the leek and blue cheese one. My first quiche actually.

Question: I have one of those quiche pans with the fluted sides. Is it hard to get the quiche out of that? Does Keller's technique work properly with that pan? Its the right size, and has the removable bottom...

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I've only made one quiche using a fluted pan with removable bottom. Mine's got some kind of nonstick coating on it and it worked like the magic its advertised to be.

"You dont know everything in the world! You just know how to read!" -an ah-hah! moment for 6-yr old Miss O.

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made the French Onion Soup (over the last 2 days of course!)

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really fantastic although incredibly rich! I think I had a bit under the 3.5 qts of beef stock and I should have added some water to bring it up. but the onions just melted in your mouth!

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  • 3 months later...

Made the vanilla icecream in my new Cuissinart SS icecream maker (over 2 days, ofcourse). Just fabulous!!!! Served it with Bouchon's chocolate sauce over the top. Very tasty!!!! And very creamy and rich!

Donna

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