The Capital

[Simon Majumdar]

It seems that rumours of Chavot's impending departure from The Capital have been greatly exaggerated or so we were told after last night's excellent meal

We arrived at the rather dowdy hotel entrance and were quickly escorted by a rather frightening man in an apron to a bar which looked liked just about every boutique hotel bar in christendom.  

I was slightly alarmed to hear a french voice when being asked for my drinks, not because I didn't realise that this was a french restaurant but because that invariably means very poor drinks.  This was no exception.  A Cosmopolitan made without sufficient lime and a warm Martini.  Ho Hum.  Thank God the French can cook.

Leaving most of the drinks we shuffled in to the dining room.  Again like any other hotel dining room in Christendom, all chinz and chandeliers.  Still nice to be in a London dining room not designed by Collins (sp?)

Service was immediate and amiable and knowledgeable ( the French at their best ) and we ordered from the A la carte Menu.  The Menu Degustation looked interesting but I have yet to have a tasting menu that did not leave me feeling gypped since L'espinasse and that was three years ago.

We statred with a glass of Gosset rose NV which at £10 was good but over priced.

The amuse summed up everything that made this place a success and GR @ Claridges a failure.  Cooked to order it was inventive and surprising and let us not forget that these things are important, delicious.  A crispy battered sliver of pig's ear ( there was much pig on the menu, Chavot must have gone long on snout ) a top a boudin made that morning in the kitchen and a veloute of garlic.  Sublime.

Starters were

Duck Foie with Girelles in an intense reduction and topped with sliver of bacon - served with a glass of Reisling

Veal sweetbread - rolled in a crust of almonds and hazlenuts and fried until the outside was caramelised and crunchy but leaving the inside liquid soft.  It was served on a herb risotto and surrounded by poached snails which had been dusted in almond powder and coated with a warm sabayon. I had a glass of slightly too acidic Pinot Gris with this and I chose badly.  The dish itself was revelatory.

Main courses were

A loin of rabbit served rolled and stuffed with a mouseline of calamari, and with a mouseline of rabbit leg and with a rolled sliver of white meat.  Along side the loin was a very tasty selection of offal.  A magnificent dish

My main course was a veal cutlet in a reduction that was far too fierce and intense and smothered taste of the perfectly prepared meat.  It was served with herb gnocchi and turned baby vegetables which hardly repaid all the effort that must have gone into turning them.  A minor disappointment.

We selected a Ribero to go with this ( Hacienda Monestarias 1997 - delicious and able to stand up to the strong flavours though benefiting from the quick 10 minute decant given to it by the somellier who was efficient and knowledgable.

The cheeseboard was a major disappointment and the selection and care of the cheeses was not up to scratch. At £12 a poor offering.

Desserts were

A Chocolate fondant - perfectly OK

A Lemon and passion fruit assortment - a miraculaous plate of four deserts including a a stunning jelly, a sour sorbet,  a tart and an ice.  All wonderful.

A mint infusion and good coffee were served with superb petits and, given that we were the last ones in the place, they doggy bagged about 50 of the things which now sit in my fridge and will be scoffed in one sitting.

The meal for two all in, including service was £285.  

i know comparisons are odious but it is worth comparing this meal to that we had at GR's.  which was around the same price.  With the exception of the cheeseboard The Capital was in every way its superior.

8.5/10

[macrosan]

Thanks for the review, Simon, but I'm puzzled.

Your headline and byeline are laudatory, yet in the body of the review you made major criticisms of no less than four elements.

- Decoration and ambience

- Bar drinks

- Your main course

- Cheeseboard

Given the price you paid, I'm astonished that you found the experience acceptable, let alone giving it an 85% rating.

This raises an interesting issue, something I've noticed in many reviews. Much attention is given to starters and desserts, both by chefs and reviewers, in terms of innovation and presentation. Many reviews seem to suggest that a starter or dessert ranks at least as important as the main course.

My own opinion is that the main course represents 80% of the importance of the food content of a meal, so if I have a bad main course my 'marks' for food will never be better than 2/10. I view the other corses as accompaniments to the main course. I'd be interested in other people's thoughts on this.

[cabrales]

This raises an interesting issue, something I've noticed in many reviews. Much attention is given to starters and desserts, both by chefs and reviewers, in terms of innovation and presentation. . . . My own opinion is that the main course represents 80% of the importance of the food content of a meal . . . . I view the other corses as accompaniments to the main course. I'd be interested in other people's thoughts on this.

macrosan -- Yes, an interesting issue. On how much weight is attributed to different courses, when I aspire to receive a "art" meal, each course should ideally be significant, and there should be a lyrical progression (a sense of the meal overall, which likely should reach a high note with respect to the main course).

When we are not addressing one of those special meals, I attribute weight to the appetizer (not necessarily the amuses, unless they are poor) and the main course about equally. I don't see the smaller physical portion size of the appetizer as signifying reduced importance, in terms of tasting the item. I attribute considerable significance to both. If a main course is affirmatively poor (not just average), but the appetizer is stunning, I could potentially give much more than a 2/10 -- depending on other factors, it could be as high as a 5/10 (although a quantitative rating doesn't quite capture my sentiments about a restaurant).

I am not a big fan of dessert, especially dark chocolate-based ones, and tend to order fruit-based or egg-based desserts. Milk chocolate-based desserts are not always available. The dessert is not crucial to non-"art"-type meals (sorry, patissiers! -- a subjective quirk), but it is nice to end the meal with a good dessert. I sometimes skip dessert, and just order cheese, although I have both with some frequency.  I would attribute less weight to the cheese course, because it is not the product of "cooking" (despite aging, storage, etc. considerations). In the case of tasting menus, I expect there to be more of a "progression" than normal, and will take that into account a bit more. I like it when restaurants offer entremets.

I am attributing an increasing significance (although one markedly less than the quality of the cuisine) to appropriate matching of food and wine, but currently have very limited capabilities in this area. While I sometimes drink armagnac and always coffe (or some type of infusion), I don't attribute any weight to those beverages.  I attribute almost no weight to bread, but am interested a bit in butter (although that would not weigh meaningfully into my assessment of the meal overall).  I attribute no weight to the quality of mignardises.

[Simon Majumdar]

Macrosan

Fair points.

In "Simon World" the overall impression of the restaurant is what matters, not just one dish.  There is no right or wrong to that.  If the main course is how you judge a place, so be it.  It is not how I judge it

So, while my main course was a "minor" disappointment ( not a major criticism ) there was so much else that was 'sublime" or "revelatory" which more than balanced it

The cheeseboard is an area where I do not mark up or down.  I was surprised though that given the excellence of the majority of the meal, this was so weak.  

I didn't criticise the ambience or decoration.  I merely said that it is like every hotel dining room.  For all you know of me, I may LOVE hotel dining rooms ( in fact I do rather and think what they did to the old Claridges and are threatening to do to the Connaught is a disgrace )

As for bar drinks.  I have yet to find a restaurant that is anywhere near capable of making a decent drink, so I have almost stopped judging them on that element or they would all start from -2.

In the end it is the whole experience.

We were not whizzed in and out in rapid quick fire

The service was exemplary not perfunctory

The service was knowledgable not confused

The food did not give the impression of being left under pass for 20 mins but was freshly created and served and was inventive and suoerbly executed.  Robin loved the reduction on my dish, so it is down to taste

The wine list ( to my limited knowledge ) had a good and reasonably priced selection

The overall ambience was cosseting and comforting.

On the whole an 85% enjoyable experience.  No less valid than Mr Parker on his wines

S

[Lord Michael Lewis]

My own opinion is that the main course represents 80% of the importance of the food content of a meal

How exactly do reduce a such seredipitous experience to such a neat, round percentage? Please explain your methods in detail? What do you do with a tasting menu? And, would a perfect main course served in a cold, wet toilet by a leper with a tinned Frutini cocktail for a starter and Angel Delight for dessert score an 8+/10 on the Macrosan Scale of Excellence?

[cabrales]

The Capital is open for lunch Sundays. If I am not too drained from other matters and can get enough work done today, I may go this Sunday (a reservation was available upon my telephoning today) and sample it again. I have a vague recollection of very reasonable prices for lunch (please indicate, if known). Have members had lunch at The Capital recently?  

[tony h]

The meal for two all in, including service was £285.  

Simon - what was the breakdown between food & wine?

[Simon Majumdar]

bar drinks - £9 each

champagne - £10 each

2 x glasses of white - £10 each

1 x Bottle of Red - £55

Tea/coffee - £5

Starters - £18 each

Mains - £26 each

Puds - £10 each

S

[mogsob]

Simon, thanks for the review which I excellent and informative as always.  I trust you saw the Harden's update that gave GR@C a simply awful review (4 for food).

As for the % to ascribe to mains, I would note that at nearly 70% the cost of a main, starters are nearly as important to a meal.  Given the cost factor alone, it is hard to argue that a main course represents 80% of a restaurant's value.  For example, Simon's mains represented only 18% of the cost of the meal -- excluding the service charge, even less.

[Tonyfinch]

As for bar drinks.  I have yet to find a restaurant that is anywhere near capable of making a decent drink,

Actually,Babe Ruth's in Wapping served excerable food but did make a more than decent frozen Margerita.

I use the past tense because I noticed on my way home from holiday that it has closed and the building put up for auction.I also noticed that Les Trois Garcons in Bethnal Green is no more,unless I was looking at the wrong building.Did anybody eat there? It received terrible reviews.

[Simon Majumdar]

I ate at Trois Garcon

It was truly horrible.  Lousy food, crappy service and a bizarre atmosphere

I am thrilled to hear that this carbuncle on the London scene is no more.  May it rot in hell

[Tonyfinch]

I meant to add-Simon,the food sounds great but those wine prices.....wheeew. £10 for a glass of acidic Pinot Gris!!!!. I also think charging £12 for a less than exemplary cheese course is way OTT.

[Scottf]

Cabrales

Just for you -

http://www.capital-london.net/capital-restaurant/menus1.html

I've always found the menu on the website to be up to date so I'd expect this to be pretty accurate.

[macrosan]

...would a perfect main course served in a cold, wet toilet by a leper with a tinned Frutini cocktail for a starter and Angel Delight for dessert score an 8+/10 on the Macrosan Scale of Excellence?

No, I wouldn't dare attempt to emulate Mr Parker. My numbers are solely representational, order-of-magnitude symbols which are quicker to write and (mostly) easier to get a point across than extensive text  

LML, how did you know about that meal I had in Paris ? I don't remember writing a review of that. And it wasn't Angel Delight, it was a Whippsy with a Cadbury's Flake floating on top. Yep, that did score 8/10 for the food, but I marked it down on ambience, and I deducted one point for the fact that they hadn't unwarpped the Cadbury's Flake.

[cabrales]

Just for you -

http://www.capital-london.net/capital-restaurant/menus1.html

Scott -- Thanks! Pounds 27.50 for three courses with coffee is pretty good.  Plus, the indicative menu had some promising things on it, including:

Appetizers

-- Risotto au Pecorino truffé et oeufs brouillés, beignet de pomme de terre au Parmesan (Truffle and Pecorino risotto, scrambled eggs with potato and Parmesan beignet), or

-- Escabèche de Saint-Jacques, sardines et gambas à la vinaigrette safranée (Sea scallops, sardines and tiger prawns "en Escabèche" with saffron dressing)

Main course

-- Côte de boeuf à l'échalotte, pommes de terre fondant, lis de vin et sauce Béarnaise (Beef cutlet and shallots, fondant potatoes with Béarnaise and red wine sauce) -- If I can go (and that's a big "if"), this is what I'd order, in view of the La Trompette cote de boeuf with bernaise.

[tony h]

I ate lunch there a couple of weeks ago.  Starters & mains seems to have change quite radically but the deserts look the same.  I didn't like the choc & pistchio pud (competent - but not to my taste) or the gianguja mousse (weird texture).  Also, price has gone up a pound - still a bargain, 'though.

I notice that scrambled eggs are on the menu.  That's the second time I've seen that recently - I'm a bit worried that's there going to be a outbreak of the stuff around london.

[Scottf]

It's got me tempted too.  Sam and I went regularly for lunch last year but haven't managed to get there so far this.

I'll definitely be taking her in the next couple of weeks.

[cabrales]

I notice that scrambled eggs are on the menu.  That's the second time I've seen that recently - I'm a bit worried that's there going to be a outbreak of the stuff around london.

blind lemon higgins -- An outbreak of scrambled eggs or any other egg dishes would be superb!   I had scrambled eggs at Eyre Brothers (the replacement dish, hah, hah), with salted cod.

In France, I had scrambled goose eggs (likely yolk overrepresented) recently at Pic, at Valence. They were served with plentiful morels, a jus based on pigeon stock, and serrano ham. Although the ham was unnecessary, the dish was good.

I tend to order egg whenever it is on the menu as an appetizer. Even though Tom Valenti didn't respond to my question on his utilization of eggs, I am interested in further sampling his egg dishes too.  

Sunday update -- I did not make it to The Capital after all, but will try to soon.

[SamanthaF]

"superb petits and, given that we were the last ones in the place, they doggy bagged about 50 of the things which now sit in my fridge and will be scoffed in one sitting." - Simon Majumdar

Simon - The Petits are wonderful, we also beg for doggy bags of the pistachio madelines.

Scott - Thank you for your kind inviation.

[Simon Majumdar]

If he does "take you" Sam.

Make sure you clear the crockery and cutlery of the tables first.  They looked quite expensive

S

[Scottf]

I nearly edited that comment once posted as I had a feeling it may get misrepresented by you

BTW, my fav petit is the white chocolate filled with pistachio cream - gorgeous.

[SamanthaF]

Simon - like scott, I knew that you would lower the tone.

(Or maybe I read it in a similar way too as I haven't seen him for a month )

[Scottf]

Haven't seen you for a month, and now my name's not even worthy of a capital letter.  That semi final ticket's looking more and more inviting  

[cabrales]

Cabrales

Just for you -

http://www.capital-london.net/capital-restaurant/menus1.html

I've always found the menu on the website to be up to date so I'd expect this to be pretty accurate.

I had lunch at The Capital today. Below are my thoughts on the Pounds 27.50 prix fixe lunch (coffee included):

-- Escabèche de Saint-Jacques, sardines et gambas à la vinaigrette safranée (Sea scallops, sardines and tiger prawns "en Escabèche" with saffron dressing)

-- Poëlés de sole de Douvre, petits pois, fèves et lardons au jus de volaille (Fillets of Dover sole, broad beans, peas and bacon with a chicken jus)

-- Chocolate fondant with coffee parfait

       Glass of Gosset Rose, NV (Pounds 11-13)

       Glass of French White, Chateau Beaucastel

The meal did not impress me, although there was nothing to which I could point as being poor. The dishes were generally well-prepared. Perhaps this speaks to the fit, or lack thereof, between a diner and a particular restaurant.

The amuse set a promising tone for the meal, and was in hindsight my favorite part of the meal. It was a small deep-fried cake of confit rabbit, atop tartare sauce (nice when paired with meat, as well as fish) and with a bit of frissee as garnishing.  There was a relatively-brighter-green-looking olive oil surrounding the central items, and a puree of parsley. Very nice because the deep frying had occurred at the last minute, and the effects on the outside of the cake made that clear.

The appetizer was average, although the scallops were quite fresh. They were slightly overcooked for my taste, although I should note that I like my scallops very minimally cooked. Two little rings of deep-fried squid were helpful, and the pan-fried (?) fillet (small, obviously) of sardine was nicely salty (this was the case).  The single prawn was overcooked.  The vinegar prominent in the saucing was nice, especially with small cross-sections of baby, baby carrots. However, the saffron was not noticeable and there was a bit of that olive oil surrounding the edge of the dish again.

Then, a Dover sole entree that featured very well-prepared fish fillets. What I disliked about the dish was the use of very significant amounts of parsley on top of the fillet, mixed in with breadcrumbs and finished off using a salamander (sic). The breadcrumbs, while softened by the parsley and oil and not too large, were distracting and a bit too aggressive for the dish in my assessment. (I generally like parsley a lot) The fillet had been placed above 4-5 asparagus stalks, which were nice, as well as fava beans and peas (surprisingly similar in taste). The bacon bits were helpful, and the jus of poultry was nice too (it was salty, but in this context, that was appropriate because sole tends to be aided by flavoring). Overall, quality fish (all the ingredients were good quality), but not prepared quite to my liking.

The dessert was appropriate. The coffee parfait had quite strong creamy elements, and was dusted with dark chocolate to form a disc for presentation purposes. The chocolate fondant was very small -- no bigger than some macarons -- but quite good-tasting. The interesting part of the dessert for me was the inclusion of certain toffee elements. There were about 5-6 small bits of a sweet item (I don't know what it's called, but it's made from sugar and the texture has honeycomb effects; I have seen it on many occasions and its color tends to be a somewhat bright yellow, bordering on orange) that was supported by a medium-soft, delicious bit of toffee (not particularly elastic-like).

Overall, a restaurant worthy of a visit (probably during lunch, when it's more reasonably priced), but not one I have an eagerness to return to. Note this was my second visit to The Capital after Chavot took over. I should perhaps emphasize that the food was well-prepared and nothing negative should be inferred from my subjective experiences.

There is a classicism in Chavot's cooking that has been updated a bit. For example, the maitre d' noted that Chavot uses cumin and saffron, and certain other "Indian" spicing. I didn't see that prominent in his cuisine, and, while there are some more updated touches, I continue to see the classicism in the cuisine (not a negative, obviously).

Helpful aspects included: (1) a female maitre d' who was knowledgeable, (2) a nicer, less aged, overall decor impression than I remember (perhaps due to the light streaming in, and the nice etched glass effects of the inside window doors), even though the tapestried chairs and chandeliers add to the formal effect, (3) the inclusion of tomato bread in offerings, (4) a selection of four coffee varieties (including a strong coffee from Honduras, which I ordered), and (5) the restaurant's recommendation of wine by the glass, instead of accepting my choice of 1/2 bottle of Chassagne-Montrachet, which I noted from the get-go was a better match for the smoked flavors of the bacon and the volaille jus in the entree than for the appetizer. Less favorable aspects included (1) the sommelier's forgetting to bring me the glass of wine for the appetizer, although this was met by immediate apologies and a "gratuit" glass of Sauternes for the dessert, and (2) refusal to provide a copy of the menu (although the refusal was nicely framed in terms of the restaurant being small and not having that many copies).

As Scott pointed out, the menu available during lunchtime was almost as indicated on the website, except that (1) a Nicoise salad has been substituted for the ham and potato salad in the appetizer section, and (2) the desserts differed somewhat from the ones on the Website.

http://www.capital-london.net/capital-restaurant/menus1.html

[Wilfrid]

Yummy.  I have a dinner booked there in early May, and I am getting excited.  Thanks for the report, Cabrales.