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Hoagie + Muffaletta= Sandwich Bliss


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Me figures it’s a perfect sandwich equation. I’ve had running arguments about the symbiotic relationship between the two sandwiches and the two cities. Especially after many glasses of Zin and I start to “spur my sleech”. Philly and N’Awlins. Look at the stats. Both cities have men dressing up in feathers and parading twice a year, and they both cities have signature sandwiches. I was out on an early morning shop at the Italian Market with a crony and I asked him what should I snag for lunch? He pointed me towards Ricci Bros. on 11th & Aninan (near Ellsworth). “Ask for the Antipasto Hoagie.” On a long roll came prosciutto, salami, crumbled hard provolone, dressed with shredded lettuce, tomato, roasted pepper, hot pepper flakes, and … and… and… OLIVE SALAD!! The green Central Grocery type. Pure Sandwich Fusion.

Jim Tarantino

Marinades, Rubs, Brines, Cures, & Glazes

Ten Speed Press

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Kewl. Two great tastes that go great together, from two of the great American sandwich cities. Actually, it's a little surprising that there aren't more hoagies that incorporate olives or giardiniera. What's up with that?

One note: the street is "Annin". (Mapquest link)

Edited by Andrew Fenton (log)
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Me figures it’s a perfect sandwich equation. I’ve had running arguments about the symbiotic relationship between the two sandwiches and the two cities. Especially after many glasses of Zin and I start to “spur my sleech”. Philly and N’Awlins. Look at the stats. Both cities have men dressing up in feathers and parading twice a year, and they both cities have signature sandwiches. I was out on an early morning shop at the Italian Market with a crony and I asked him what should I snag for lunch? He pointed me towards Ricci Bros. on 11th & Aninan (near Ellsworth). “Ask for the Antipasto Hoagie.”  On a long roll came prosciutto, salami, crumbled hard provolone, dressed with shredded lettuce, tomato, roasted pepper, hot pepper flakes, and … and… and… OLIVE SALAD!!  The green Central Grocery type. Pure Sandwich Fusion.

Well, he WAS slurring his speech after all.

Rich Pawlak

 

Reporter, The Trentonian

Feature Writer, INSIDE Magazine
Food Writer At Large

MY BLOG: THE OMNIVORE

"In Cerveza et Pizza Veritas"

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i was down picking up stuff in the market today, and thinking of this topic i stopped by ricci's for an antipasta [sic] hoagie. it's a GREAT sandwich. two kinds of salami, prosciutto, roasted peppers, olive tapenade, aged provolone... excellent stuff.

aside: we were the only white people in there besides the employees. that kinda surprised me--a place called ricci's, two blocks from the market, and there's not an italian-american in sight? weird.

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i was down picking up stuff in the market today, and thinking of this topic i stopped by ricci's for an antipasta [sic] hoagie.  it's a GREAT sandwich.  two kinds of salami, prosciutto, roasted peppers, olive tapenade, aged provolone... excellent stuff.

aside: we were the only white people in there besides the employees.  that kinda surprised me--a place called ricci's, two blocks from the market, and there's not an italian-american in sight?  weird.

South Philly is a lot like that. There's dozens of nondescript corner hoagie joints peppering the geography. They have the mandatory autographrd B&W pics on the wall, racks of chips, and refrigerated coffins of coca-cola and such. Check Holly's web site.

I just finished the second half of that puppy for breakfast this morning. Aside from a bit of sandwich sog, it beat's the hell out of Wheaties. :cool:

Thanks for the spell check, Andrew. Consider that one of my zins of ommission.

Jim Tarantino

Marinades, Rubs, Brines, Cures, & Glazes

Ten Speed Press

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The current owners are the second/third owners. One of the second generation of original sold 6 years ago and works for us, Fred DeSantis. He still wears a Ricci Bros shirt at least once a week. I keep meaning to get over there, I've heard how great it is.

Lisa K

Lavender Sky

"No one wants black olives, sliced 2 years ago, on a sandwich, you savages!" - Jim Norton, referring to the Subway chain.

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Okay, a good hoagie. I like that they slice the meat right there in front of you. Good quality cheese, and I liked the olives. A little weird that they scoop out the inside of the bread-- hey, those are precious carbs, going in the trash!-- but it makes more room, I guess.

But seriously, that was the saltiest sandwich I have ever eaten. It's like an hour and a half later and I've got a huge dehydration headache. Yow.

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they didn't scoop out my bread. and yeah, that sandwich is saltariffic. but think about the stuff in there; it's no real surprise.

did you tell them no salt? they salt the sandwiches--i noticed that when i was in there, but forgot to mention it.

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Okay, a good hoagie.  I like that they slice the meat right there in front of you.  Good quality cheese, and I liked the olives.  A little weird that they scoop out the inside of the bread-- hey, those are precious carbs, going in the trash!-- but it makes more room, I guess.

But seriously, that was the saltiest sandwich I have ever eaten.  It's like an hour and a half later and I've got a huge dehydration headache.  Yow.

The saltiness didn’t blow be back against the wall. Although I’ve spent the past year messing with brines and cures so I have to take some of that palate anesthetization into account. Lot a times I’ve found prosciutto meat closer to the ends to be saltier, they’re also using two kinds of cured meat (salami’s), and while it doesn’t have a lot of salt - dry provolone. Combine with the condiments and you could have an accumulative salt effect. I’ve made muffs in the past and usually do about a gallon of olive salad that I use throughout the year on more muffs, pizza, pasta and Wheaties (great way to start the day). :cool: The stuff is inherently salty. But there are some liquid antidotes available.

One of the other places that I know that adds a salad to there sandwich mix is Salumaria in Reading Terminal with marinated chopped artichokes. I imagine there are some other variations out there.

While there are great regional differences in the shape, taste, and texture of the rolls, the “antipasto” type or style of sandwich seems to me to form part of the baseline in muffaletas, hoagies, heroes, subs etc…

I have some good friends in N’Awlins. I’m wondering if they ever came across a “muffaletta po’boy” with muff innards on a po’ boy roll and “dressed”.

Jim Tarantino

Marinades, Rubs, Brines, Cures, & Glazes

Ten Speed Press

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thinking more on this, it seems to me i would enjoy someone taking the concept of an antipasto hoagie a little further. one kind of salami, chopped olives, marinated artichokes, maybe those kinda pickled cauliflower and carrots, roasted peppers, a hard boiled egg, some tuna, lots of chopped romaine... ok basically i'm thinking of marra's antipasto in a hoagie now.

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One theory on the history of the hoagie says the name came from Hogs Island. The Hoggies where ship builders. Their wives would would fix the lunch the Hoggies took to work by hollowing out a piece of Italian bread and stuffing it with antipasto salad.

Used to be a place on 11th just off Locust, Hog Island Hoagies, that prepared hoagies in that manner. Damn fine eating.

Holly Moore

"I eat, therefore I am."

HollyEats.Com

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Hol', Ive eaten more than one sandwich with a "dressing trowel" . I use to think form-follows-function so it would keep the meat and cheese from sliding out of the roll. We're talking slick surfaces here.

thinking more on this, it seems to me i would enjoy someone taking the concept of an antipasto hoagie a little further. one kind of salami, chopped olives, marinated artichokes, maybe those kinda pickled cauliflower and carrots, roasted peppers, a hard boiled egg, some tuna, lots of chopped romaine... ok basically i'm thinking of marra's antipasto in a hoagie now.

I'm just wondering if this goes against the popular or mainstream definition of what a hoagie can have or to have not. Sandwich shops make what sells. Take a round Amoroso roll, now tripple the size of it and stuff it with muffaletta ingredients. Would it work locally? How wide of an ingredient range or different shape would be acceptable? A question for discussion. Does the idea of having a hoagie and a cheesesteak hamper other types of sandwich growth. Granted the "Schmitter" broke down part of that barrier....

Jim Tarantino

Marinades, Rubs, Brines, Cures, & Glazes

Ten Speed Press

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thinking more on this, it seems to me i would enjoy someone taking the concept of an antipasto hoagie a little further.  one kind of salami, chopped olives, marinated artichokes, maybe those kinda pickled cauliflower and carrots, roasted peppers, a hard boiled egg, some tuna, lots of chopped romaine... ok basically i'm thinking of marra's antipasto in a hoagie now.

Hell yeah. Of course, there's no reason why you couldn't do this at home. Super Bowl party snack? Perfect, I'd think.

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One theory on the history of the hoagie says the name came from Hogs Island.  The Hoggies where ship builders.  Their wives would would fix the lunch the Hoggies took to work by hollowing out a piece of Italian bread and stuffing it with antipasto salad.

Used to be a place on 11th just off Locust, Hog Island Hoagies, that prepared hoagies in that manner.  Damn fine eating.

Isn't that the space that currently houses La Boheme??

I remember Hog Island Hoagies. I only got there a couple of times but damn those were good sandwiches. Ranked up there with Chickie's on Federal for a great Hoagie. Different style, but still delicious. I miss that place. :sad:

Katie M. Loeb
Booze Muse, Spiritual Advisor

Author: Shake, Stir, Pour:Fresh Homegrown Cocktails

Cheers!
Bartendrix,Intoxicologist, Beverage Consultant, Philadelphia, PA
Captain Liberty of the Good Varietals, Aphrodite of Alcohol

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One of the other places that I know that adds a salad to there sandwich mix is Salumaria in Reading Terminal with marinated chopped artichokes. I imagine there are some other variations out there.

And a very good sandwich it is. Probably one of the most underrated in town. The artichokes cost extra, but that has never stopped me from ordering them. And get the house dressing rather than O&V or mayo. Although their bread doesn't have quite the crust crunch I like, it works well with their sandwiches.

Bob Libkind aka "rlibkind"

Robert's Market Report

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One of the other places that I know that adds a salad to there sandwich mix is Salumaria in Reading Terminal with marinated chopped artichokes. I imagine there are some other variations out there.

And a very good sandwich it is. Probably one of the most underrated in town. The artichokes cost extra, but that has never stopped me from ordering them. And get the house dressing rather than O&V or mayo. Although their bread doesn't have quite the crust crunch I like, it works well with their sandwiches.

The tenor in the choir has heard your preaching!!! I think we have a fair amount of work here. I work in Bensalem, with the exception of a nice Turkish restaurant, a ruff Mexican joint, and veggie Indian restaurants --- there's not much to sustain intelligent digestible life. If I walk out the door and ignore the chains I can find a generic hoagie and/or cheesteak on any menu that replicates rank and file. They're almost everywhere. Sometimes it's nice to find one of these things that works on it's own as a sandwich instead of a line item. I can deal with the salt for the sake of the difference. I just don't want t look at another Tuna Hoagie unless it's Ventresca. (From another thread ...)

Jim Tarantino

Marinades, Rubs, Brines, Cures, & Glazes

Ten Speed Press

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  • 4 months later...

since this thread kinda became the 'odd not-quite-a-hoagie' thread, i'm bumping it up because i had an interesting sandwich today at salumeria--lima beans and aged provolone.

yeah, lima beans. i thought it was weird too when i saw it on the special board, but then i had an image of fava beans with oil and mint and shaved pecorino, and thought it might be something like that--early limas, a fresh spring kinda sandwich.

well, it wasn't--it was gigantic cooked dried limas, which were then marinated in oil and vinegar with some sweet peppers. and piles of aged provolone--maybe a little too much cheese, even, and i'm not one to say that usually. and the house dressing of course. the guy who owns it (or just has worked there forever--balding, grey hair, kinda brusque but nice. i assumed he was the owner but maybe he's not), recommended not putting anything else on it other than that, so we didn't.

anyway, it was excellent. something totally different than the usual sandwiches you get around town. not for atkins dieters obviously--a little starch with your starch, sir?--but really tasty. recommended if you're in the mood for a change. i don't know if they have it on a regular basis, but if they do it's going to have an occasional place in my sandwich rotation.

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since this thread kinda became the 'odd not-quite-a-hoagie' thread

I believe the term of art is "stunt hoagie".

Anyway, I tried Salumeria's lima bean hoagie today. I confess, it's a pretty damn good sandwich. First, I think (but wouldn't swear to it) that the limas are Greek gigantes. They're more like that than normal limas, at any rate.

I was worried that the hoagie would be dry and/or mealy, on account of all that starch. Not to worry, though! The marination made the beans pretty tender and relatively moist. Also, Salumeria makes a really wet hoagie: the house spread, the pepper spreads and the artichokes all make for sloppy, oily, wet deliciousness, which are a good complement to the limas.

Actually, I'd be tempted to just order a platter with limas and maybe their antipasto salad. While I like Salumeria's hoagies, their bread isn't anything special, and I'd be just as happy with a plate of beans and cheese.

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I live on Annin Street, crawling distance from Ricci's. I'm very ashamed to say that I hadn't tried their hoagies yet.

Will correct this ASAP. May have to taste the rest of the menu in atonement.

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I ventured onto this board via Holly's site - now I join the ranks of posting!

I know this original post is dated but I will chime in. I am a lifelong Philly guy - but my wife is from Louisiana. I have been to the grocery and the Muffaletta is a great sandwich - I think they use a round roll though. I will have to try this hoagie that resembles it.

Any Louisiana transplants lurking in the Philly/NJ area? Any Louisiana/Cajun/Creole places in this area anyone recommends?

Mike

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I ventured onto this board via Holly's site - now I join the ranks of posting!

I know this original post is dated but I will chime in.  I am a lifelong Philly guy - but my wife is from Louisiana.  I have been to the grocery and the Muffaletta is a great sandwich - I think they use a round roll though.  I will have to try this hoagie that resembles it.

Any Louisiana transplants lurking in the Philly/NJ area?  Any Louisiana/Cajun/Creole places in this area anyone recommends?

Mike

Welcome to eGullet, Mike. Good to know the link is working.

For Cajun, sorta Nouevelle Cajun, give Carmines on Woodbine Avenue in Narbeth a try.

Holly Moore

"I eat, therefore I am."

HollyEats.Com

Twitter

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Welcome, Mike!

I'd say, try the Ricci's hoagie, but don't expect it to be a muffaletta. It's a good sandwich, and it's more like a muff than most hoagies, but it isn't a muffaletta qua muffaletta (wrong bread, wrong meats, etc.)

I'm told that Matyson makes a muffaletta at lunch. No idea about the authenticity or whatever, but I bet it's good.

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