Cape Cod Restaurants

[Pat Goldberg]

Just returned to NYC from 2.5 months in Truro.  In keeping with the mediocre level of restaurants on the Cape, I cannot say we had any spectacular meals, but a few were memorable.  What follows are some comments on the restaurants I recall eating in, organized by town.  If anyone wants more details, I will oblige.

P'TOWN

Clem and Ursies.  A very casual place - you place your order, take a card with your number to your table, and wait for the food to arrive.  The food is good, but not exceptional.  What is exceptional is the variety:  clam shack fried, Portuguese dishes, BBQ, Japanese salads.  The price for lobsters is particularly good, although we didn't eat them.  Pretty good selection of beer and wine.

Gallerani's.  On commercial street. Mostly pasta, some fish.  Many of their dishes are quite spicy.  We had a pretty good meal, but our son went another night and had pasta that had been badly cooked.  Parking behind the restaurant.

Sal's place.  We have gotten good fish here in the past.  This year it was overcooked.  The view is lovely, the service is pretty bad.  I doubt we will go back next year.

TRURO

Adrians.  Largely pasta and pizza, with two or three entrees.  Food middling, even for Cape Cod, but spectacular views.  Some of the appetizers (eggplant, bread salad are quite good though.  Able to handle large parties

Montanos.  A family restaurant open all year around.  Claim to fame is a set of trivia cards at each table. Had a suprisingly good piece of grilled schrod with an side of pasta with oil and garlic.  Salad is ice cold and uninteresting in any case.

Blacksmith Shop.  Seems to be under new management every year!  We tried it again after a long hiatus, and the food was disgusting.  I had stuffed flounder that was still frozen in the center.  Avoid, avoid, avoid.

Terra Luna.  We had never eaten here until this year.  It is a small restaurant with a small menu: a handful of salads and appetizers, four of five entrees, a half dozen entrees, ditto for desserts.  The first three meals were fine:  I had a striped bass special and the seafood Fra Diavolo over linguini that were quite tasty.  Thai spring rolls were surprisingly good and the Caesar salad was adequate.  So we confidently chose it as a place to go with friends for their only meal out on the Cape.  It was a disaster!  Everything was seriously undercooked -- they each had bluefish that was RAW in the center (and there was a lot of center).  The accompanying baked potatoes were also raw.  My duck breast was, to be charitable, indifferent.  To be fair, when we complained, they comped one of the bluefish as well as our desserts, but it was not a pleasant experience.  I guess we will hope is was just an off night.

WELLFLEET

JP FInely's is our restuarant of choice here.  We eat there often, since it is also open weekends during the winter.  It is a small place that does not take reservations, so there can be a wait.  There menu is small, but eclectic, and there are blackboard specials every evening.  The decor is nothing to write home about, but the food and friendly service makes up for this.

EASTHAM

North Eastham Lobster Pool.  This is an old standby that has deteriorated badly over the past few years.  I no longer am willing to eat their fried clams, having had some very bad ones over the last couple of year.  Their french fries are now covered with some sort of spicy batter that renders them inedible by me,  But they still make a good lobster roll and usually their fried scallops are OK.

Arnold's.  A clam shack.  Usually the portions are large, but their clams are greasy (although our Siamese cat, a fried food freak, finds them excellent).  Unlike many shacks, they have a beer and wine license.

ORLEANS

The Yardarm.  A tavern.  They have the best fried clams at this end of the Cape, as well as some pretty good blackboard specials.  Can accommodate kids.  A good choice for lunch

Land Ho!  Similar to the Yardarm, but a bit livelier.  Less good on fried foods, but makes excellent burgers.  REasonable clam pie and lots of blackboard specials.  Tends to be crowded at lunch.

HunanIII.  Bad Chinese food.  Avoid it.

CHATHAM

The Impudent Oyster.  Pretty good for lunch, with their mussel dishes particularly recommended.  However the bread served with the mussels is dreadful.

[Preet Baba]

Excellent report Pat. Thank you. I have found myself on the Cape more than once with no reliable dining information. A question: Do you know which of these restaurants are open in the off season? I tend to visit the Cape in the dead of winter when it is one of my favorite places on Earth.

[Fat Guy]

I proposed to Ellen at the Captain Linnell House in Orleans. This was almost a decade ago, when we were in our early twenties and neither of us was serious enough about cuisine (nor serious enough) to render an informed critical judgment but I remember a very satisfying meal. Pat do you have any experience with this place? And Preet I recall it being open in the off season, because I proposed the day before Valentine's Day -- it doesn't get much more off season than February on the Cape.

Pat, also, thanks very much for posting such a comprehensive set of capsule reviews.

[Preet Baba]

The restaurant has a Web site:

www.linnell.com

[Pat Goldberg]

I too love the Cape in the winter.  We always spend Thanksgiving there with my New England relatives.  Sometimes the roses are still in bloom; other times there are six inches of snow.  We also celebrate New Years eve there, but I entertain at home, inviting a few close friends.

I haven't been to Capt. Linnels in years.  Went once to hear Dave McKenna play.  As I recall the food was OK but not special.

As to what else is open in the winter, this is a bit tricky.  Some places are open all week, others only on weekends.  Most places close down for a week or two in the middle of the winter to spruce up the place, to give the staff a vacation, etc.  But with all that in mind, here is what I know is open year round:

Montanos, BlackSmith Sop, JP FInely's, YardArm, Land Ho, HunamIII.

Not reviewed, but open in PTown are Napis (downhill from its best years, but still reliable if overpriced), the Lobster Pot and Front Street.  I have eaten in all of them and have found them all at least acceptable.  But beware:  Front Street opens only for dinner and if you have an early reservation, you can get mighty cold waiting for the doors to open!

If you have other specific questions, I'll try to help.

[stefanyb]

Pat-  I enjoyed reading your reviews.  I have been to many of those you mentioned and basically agree with your assessments.  I realize that you didn't mention restaurants up Cape past Chatham but if you did,  I would add one - Inaho in Yarmouthport.  The only restaurant on the Cape that I would go to regardless of where it was.

I actually had some of the best toro there that I have had anywhere,and I have eaten Japanese food up and down both coasts of the U.S.

[Pat Goldberg]

Thanks,  we have been meaning to get to Inaho, but the drive has put us off.  Do you know anyting about their off-season schedule?  With your recommendation as impetus, perhaps we'll try it this fall or winter.

BTW, for visitors to Cape Cod, it is worth mentioning that sushi-grade fish, including tuna, is routinely available.  It is not marked as such, but is is sometimes possible to get excellent toro at standard tuna prices if you know what you are looking for.  Of course, it is important to go to an excellent fish market such as Hatch's in Wellfleet or Nauset in Orleans.

[John Whiting]

I grew up in Provincetown half a century ago, and so I have a certain proprietary interest. I've been back a few times over the years, the last being about five years ago. Napi's was indeed remarkable, both in conception and execution. I'm sorry if it's declined. Sal's no longer belongs to Sal Del Deo (an original founder of Ciro & Sal's), so I'm not surprised that it's slid.

Of at least academic interest is the Flagship, a rambling old waterfront restaurant with miles of history behind it. It was there when I was growing up -- the devil's clubhouse, as  I was earnestly warned. It was a favorite hangout of Anais Nin; for whatever it's worth, it's also the Ptown kitchen where Anthony Bourdain cut his well-sharpened incisors. (In Kitchen Confidential he identifies it as the Dreadnaught.) Worth going in just to drink at the bar, which is half of an old fishing dory. When last there I had a grilled tuna steak which was quite OK.

[Rail Paul]

A friend was a manager of a fish packing house in Chatham during the 1980s. He was amazed at how few Cape restaurants sent their own buyers to the house for fresh fish back then. Some would buy Cape fish in the Boston market, and have it trucked back (cheaper that way).

The NY wholesalers were fanatics, had their own local agents, dedicated, iced trucks, etc. The fishermen knew the time mark they had to hit for premium prices. FedEx and UPS air freighted fish to much of the US for wholesalers.

The Japanese were the absolute best. In some cases, an agent would be on your boat. Premiums would escelate for fish landed on the last day, line caught. When the tuna was iced, it would be tagged for blood side down (blood settles to the lower of the two sides, which distresses the fibers, I've been told). Four good sized tuna could make your numbers

[stagis]

OK, this is complicated. Fambly vacation in August will be in Brewster, MA on the 'elbow' of Cape Cod. The wife doesn't care what she eats, as long is it's steamed/boiled lobster or baked, stuffed shrimp. The daughter (18) is the world's pickiest eater - she'd rather flirt with a waiter. The middle boy will eat anything once, while the youngest (14) will eat all-you-can-eat pasta until you physically remove him from the table. Mois? I like anything and everything - literally. If I had my druthers, I'd put a sushi bar in at Abbott's Lobster-in-the-Rough with a Dairy Queen at the exit and a BBQ joint while you wait. Sooooooooooooooooooooooooooo.......

Anybody have favorite eateries out there? If the food's awful, good drinks will compensate. F'rinstance, one of my favorites is Bill's in Clinton, CT. Fried-food heaven, but with reggae on the jukebox, a good outside bar... Abbott's is pure pleasure in Noank, CT.... The there's no bar, the food HAS to be good, though gourmet fare won't cut it with the family.....

I await your input anxiously.....tummy rumbling.

[researchgal]

Here are few suggestions for that area of the Cape:

Brewster Fish House (Route 6a in Brewster)--excellent seafood, but very popular place so gets crowded and no res accepted. There's also a place across the street from the Fish House that I don't know the name of but it's supposed to be good and less of a wait.

Land Ho' (Route 6a in Orleans)--probably your best bet for casual dining w/the family--has menu w/something for everyone--nice tavern-like atmostphere

Impudent Oyster (downtown Chatham)--cute place, casual and nice atmosphere, also in location conducive to strolling around the town of Chatham which is adorable

Rosina's (Route 28 (I think), Orleans)--cute little Italian place--don't know if the waiters will rate w/your daughter!

If all else fails, go to Emack and Bolio's for icecream (Route 6a, Orleans)!!

Have fun.

[bigbear]

I'll second the Land Ho' and the Impudent Oyster and add the upstairs bar at Christian's in Chatham.

[researchgal]

Hi big bear--tell us more about Christians, I've never been there. Do they have music at the bar? Food?

[bigbear]

It has been a few years since I have been to Christian's, but their website says it's still the same ownership. It came to my mind because I remember the pleasant, casual atmosphere and that we each found something on the menu that pleased our individual tastes. My mother got her seafood, my wife got her land-based fare and I got a great manhattan or two. The food must have been decent. I don't remember a lot of bitching and moaning.

Christian's Website

[John Whiting]

I remember it from my last visit in the 70s as The Chatham Arms; I still have one of their T-shirts. Having been born in Chatham, I take a certain proprietary interest. My father was pastor of the Methodist Church, still one of the jewels of local architecture, and so I didn't get much early experience of the local bars.

[lilyspence]

Brewster Fish House is great, but might not be wonderful for kids. You and the wife might think about having lunch there, as it's not quite as busy, and in the past has had the best food on the Cape.

There is a good website (www.allcapecod.com) that lists restaurants by location, and many have menus that you can access. Let me add Serena's, a Portuguese/Italian place in South Wellfleet, as a place the entire family might enjoy. Pasta, seafood, young waitstaff, and drinks.

Have a great time!

Lily

[bushey]

Arnold's, an informal seafood place on Rte 6 in Eastham, just past the National Seashore Headquarters, has great seafood and burgers. It's one step above a clam shack -- you place your order at the counter and then go find a table indoors or a picnic table outdoors. The clam chowder is thick, rich and creamy with lots of clams, no heavy salt pork taste and none of that floury feeling. The fried clams are fantastic, as are the steamers. We usually eat there a few times during our week at the Cape, sometimes for lunch, sometimes for dinner. Never had a steamed lobster there, but their fried lobster nuggets are delish. No waiters, so that's a drawback for your daughter.

The Binnacle, in Orleans near the junction of 6A and 28 behind Christmas Tree Shops, has great pizza and good Italian specials. Their caesar salad is my hands-down favorite. You can have anything you want on your pizza (goat cheese, peppers, eggplant, lobster, shrimp, artichoke hearts, etc.), plus they offer specials like Thai Chicken Pizza and my husband's favorite, Shrimp, Bacon and Mustard. The pizzas are sort of deep dish style. Very reasonable. They also have some steak and seafood specials nightly that are usually good.

Haven't been to Brewster Fish House in several years but we plan to go in a couple of weeks. Not really a family place so we avoid it when we have the kids. Our family has never been wild about Land Ho!, but we do like Jonathan's Tavern at the Barley Neck Inn. It's in Orleans on the way to Nauset Beach. Another place that gets good reviews but leaves us kinda cold is Kadee's in Orleans.

If you make it all the way to Provincetown and want to have dinner there, The Lobster Pot has great seafood. Their salads and breads are served family style and are fresh and delicious. I had a pan roasted lobster that I devoured and the teenagers loved their salmon dishes. You can get any fish prepared in any number of ways and the staff is very helpful. Walking around Provincetown at night and poking around the shops is a favorite teenage activity. Escpecially when there's a lot of local color in the streets.

edit note: originally had "The Barnacle" instead of Binnacle. Must have been thinking of Barnacle Bill the old sailors' shanty

[John Whiting]

The Lobster Pot! My parents used to take me there in the 1930s. Later, when neon signs were banned on Commercial Street, the Lobster Pot was exempt because their neon sign had been up since time immemorial. See it still glowing, though at a new location, at: http://www.ptownlobsterpot.com/

[bigbear]

Here is another website that might interest someone that is Cape-bound.

Click Here

[researchgal]

Here is another website that might interest someone that is Cape-bound.

Click Here

Hey--I saw John Whiting's face on that site! When I clicked on it, there was a wonderful memoir of P'town from Mr. Whiting himself! Cool!

[bushey]

One of the neatest things at the Lobster Pot is the art gallery of photos, paintings and drawings of the restaurant all along the walls. And the portuguese kale soup, though not traditional at all, was outrageously good.

The waitress we had was fantastic. There were six of us: my husband and myself, our fourteen year old daughter and her best friend, and our eight year old daughter and her best friend. She knew exactly what to bring the liitle kids: sparkler straws, and she advised the teens on the best preparations for their salmon. She brought along a side of homemade bearnaise for my daughter's blackened salmon because "you've got to try this!" and when I asked about the lobster she said "You can get steamed lobster anywhere -- the pan roasted is our specialty". We're going to the Cape again in a couple of weeks and may shlep up to Provincetown from Dennis just so we can eat there again and have Julie serve us.

[Paulazuchef]

For all you headed for the Cape this summer here are a few of my Cape Cod favorites:

The Red Pheasant in Dennis : Fairly upscale, beatiful old building, serves game. I believe the Chef/Owner is a Masterchef. I go there whenever I'm on the Cape.

Peddlers: Discovered this one last summer when we stayed in Brewster. It's a lovely, casual, Bistro type place. I had Steak Au poive that came with a salad and side of pasta. Nothing elaborate, but done correctly and very hearty. Runned by a nice couple. He is the Chef, the wife is Hostess and their daughter waits tables. It's very small and Intimate. I loved it!

Swan River Seafood in Dennisport: Is always a must for me. nice view. great fisherman's platter, great steamers. (there's a fish market on premises). I've gone there since childhood and feel very nostalgic about it.

The Lobster Claw in Orleans: Big Family owned restaurant. great fish, very simply cooked. Fried food is not greasy. I got a fried fisherman's platter and it was great. It was also huge...Got the rest to go and took it back to the refrige in the room. Next day we took it to the beach to feed the gulls...we opened the box and my Husband and I both remarked that it still smelled soooo good. (but we were nice and shared with the gulls anyway).

For Ice cream...I like "the Ice cream smuggler" in Dennis for hard ice cream. For soft it's "Captain Frosty's" also in Dennis.

A great place is also "Cobies" on 6A in Brewster.

Happy Eating!

Paulazuchef

[bushey]

Paulazuchef, I've always wanted to eat at Red Pheasant but we never seem to be able to work it into our week at the Cape. Several years ago we rented a house very close to the restaurant and it was one of my favorite Cape rentals. We were right next to a sheep farm and the house had a large kitchen with a big picture window.

We'll be at the Cape next week, so maybe we'll have a chance to have dinner there. We'll be staying at Scargo Manor for a few days, and already have plans to eat at Abicci, which we've wanted to try. May go to Inaho in Yarmouthport for sushi or Brewster Fish House. Swan River Restaurant is one of the places we like also, for casual family dining. Can't wait -- hope the nice weather holds!

[researchgal]

I proposed to Ellen at the Captain Linnell House in Orleans. This was almost a decade ago, when we were in our early twenties and neither of us was serious enough about cuisine (nor serious enough) to render an informed critical judgment but I remember a very satisfying meal. Pat do you have any experience with this place? And Preet I recall it being open in the off season, because I proposed the day before Valentine's Day -- it doesn't get much more off season than February on the Cape

Capt Linnell House is quite good--my parents live down the street from there and eat there often. Also nearby try The Beacon, aopen year round--a wonderful cozy restaurant with very good fish, seafood. Also a small, but great bar which is fun to hang out at. Another year round spot in Orleans is Rossinas, a small Italian place, not terribly innovative--the usual traditional N. Ital items on the menu, but very good and consitent.

[Paulazuchef]

Bushey,

Have you ever been to Chillingsworth in Brewster? The first time we went 3 years ago, we were blown away, but I'm afraid it hasn't lived up to its rep. ever since. Perhaps we just caught them on off nights the last few years.

I heard very good things about Brewster Fish House, Let me know how it is if you go there.

Also, have you ever been to Hallets in Yarmouth for Ice Cream or a quick sandwich & some chowder for lunch? If you happen to be in the area at lunch time it's a cute old general store type place, very charming and unspoiled and a fun thing to do, if you've had enough beach time is go to the Green Brian Nature Center and Jam Kitchen. It's great, you can watch them make the jam and also buy it (sooooo yummy). You will not be able to decide which jams to get, so many different types.

Have fun!

-Paulazuchef