Ensenada Restaurants

[Keith Talent]

I'm going to be in Ensenada for a couple nights later this month and was shocked to have my search come up nada. Northern baja part of the California board perhaps?

We've been to Ensenada four or five times in the past, never eaten anywhere stellar, wondering if anyone here has any recommendations? We're interested in everything from classic upscale Mexican to which cart has the best tacos to which stall at the dock has the best ceviche.

We also stop on the drive down in Peurto Neuvo for a lobster lunch. Any gems there?

Anyone help? Thanks.

[Chris Cognac]

Its pretty touristy but the La Bufadora blowhole actually has some pretty decent shrimp and lobster taco places....

[Keith Talent]

We've never ventured to the blowhole, it's thirty/fourty minutes south, isn't it? I kinda just imagined it was a liter strewn graffitied pile of rock that periodically spews water, but the revelation that there is taco stands and opportunities to purchase t-shirts that read "One tequila, two tequila, three tequila, floor" piques my interest.

There just taco stands there, or actual restaurants and if so which is good?

[esperanza]

I admit that it's been a few years since I've been to La Bufadora, but your description of the blowhole itself is far from accurate. It's quite impressive, especially if you go at high tide. The formation of the rocks forces the ocean water through a narrow hole, making the water explode into a stories-tall spout.

I understand that there have been recent changes at the site, but most protect unwary tourists from slipping into the ocean.

There have always been souvenir booths along the walkway to La Bufadora, said booths selling the tackiest of tourist claptrap. You will certainly find that T-shirt you mentioned and many variations on the theme. You'll find trinkets made of shells and mugs made to look like breasts and toothpick holders in the form of drop-drawer campesinos and many other highly desireable items.

If I were you, I'd go see La Bufadora and then head to Puerto Nuevo for lobsters.

[Chris Cognac]

Bufadora is a good call....there are stands and some real restaurants....check it out, its worth it to go at least once....some of the places have nice views from upstairs of the ocean as well...its nothing fancy, but would be a great lunch!

[chefsteban]

Bufadora is a good call....there are stands and some real restaurants....check it out, its worth it to go at least once....some of the places have nice views from upstairs of the ocean as well...its nothing fancy, but would be a great lunch!

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Actually there are many good places to eat in and around Ensenada.....I love that town and go whenever I get the chance. You will find great eating all over the place. The best fish tacos can be had at the city fish market, located just as you enter the city. about 25 taco stands vie for your money and they all serve extremely fresh fish tacos along with other seafood delicacies from ceveche to siete mares soup to amazing shrimp cocktails.

In town there are great places such as Manzanas, Las Brisas, Las Turtulias and Bronco steakhouse that have something for every appetite. Broncos serves up sizzling steaks cooked over mesquite wood, and Las Turtulias has a wonderful tortilla soup and a great salmon fillet poached in tequilla.

For a hearty and economical breakfast, I suggest Mi Kaza...a full array of mexican and american style breakfasts served by the friendliest staff in town.

Of Course for gourmet cuisine...try Lajas in the San Antonio de las Minas area north of town--the the heart of Bajas wine country. State of the art latin fare and plenty of wineries to visit to sample some of the finest wines this side of Napa.

If you do go out to the Buffadora, the best little restaurant is Gordo's....just before the enterance to the blowhole.....and if you eat at Gordos, you won't be charged for parking...so you can walk to the blowhole and save a buck or two.

One place to avoid is Las Cavas de las Tigres...on the road to la buffadora....a restaurant long past its prime but still making a living on its old reputation.

These are just a few places to stop in at......if ya need more detail...just ask abd i shall answer.

[Keith Talent]

Thanks for the help chefsteban, can you give me a rough idea of where the Ensenada places are in town? I'm vaguely familiar with the layout. We'll be certain to take your Gordos advice on lunch. Proably saved me a bad meal, given the choice between two places, one called Gordos and one called The tigers cave, I'll head into the cave everytime.

[chefsteban]

Thanks for the help chefsteban, can you give me a rough idea of where the Ensenada places are in town? I'm vaguely familiar with the layout. We'll be certain to take your Gordos advice on lunch. Proably saved me a bad meal, given the choice between two places, one called Gordos and one called The tigers cave, I'll head into the cave everytime.

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Anyting I can do to help amigo.....do you know where you will be staying? I always try to stay at the Quintas Papagayo, on the northen outskirts of town. Spacious rooms and beach front cabins at very low prices.....very clean and secuity is no problem.....plus two good restaurants on the premises.....If you are there on a weekend, keep an ear open for the lady hawking tamales....they make an excellent breakfast with a cold beer

Most of the places I mentioned are walking distance around town. I might suggest dropping by a coffee house called Cafe Cafe and talk to the owner Memo. He is a cool dude, speaks perfect english and knows what going on all over the city. He is an invaluable source for information...and he is damned funny too.

Have fun and let us know how your adventure turns out.

[Keith Talent]

We just got back, and had a few really good meals.

Ate at Mahi Mahi the first night. Seafood restaurant off the strip seemingly to cater mostly to locals. Started with a scallop cocktelle, then a reasonable ceasar salad, then had a giant piece of perfectly cooked black bass covered in crab and parmesan cheese. Really nicely done. Wife had deep fried shrimp breaded with coconut which was also excellent. We had originally tried to go to the restaurant on the toursist strip with the rotisserie chickens in the front window. We entered and stood around looking stupid and generally being ignored so we walked out. Too bad because the chickens looked awesome. Mesquite grilled, golden and juicy. Mahi Mahi is off the north end of the tourist strip two blocks west of the end of the road, up against the hill.

The next day we got up and went to LaBuffadora. Rain was threatening, but we ventured anyways. Plan was to drive there, look around then have lunch at Gordos recommended above. Arrived, parked car and proceeded to the blowhole. Few drops of rain started to fall. Generally unimpressed with the blowhole, until swoosh, a giant column of water erupted. Wow! That was impressive. Proceeded to hang around a few more eruptions as the rain continued to intensify. I want one last look, walk over to the front of the hole. Woosh, I take a full blast square in the face. Family is lying on the ground laughing at me. I look like I've been hit with a water canon. Then the skies open. Suddenly we're all soaked, completely. Straggle up to the enclosed viewing area, very slowly as A) it's slippery as hell and B) You can't see a thing for all the water running down your face. Finally get into the shelter, look around, a kids missing. She's standing frozen twenty feet outside, abandoned and unable to proceed. Much screaming, for her to run in, which was inaudible over the torrents, then a discussion between my wife and I who had to go rescue her. I lost, back into the teeth. The whole family is drenched. Not just moist, just out of a pool soaked. Troop back to the car as the showers lessen to downpour from Noah and the ark levels. Car is currently parked in the middle of a river. Shit. Oh yeah, I'm already soaked, so it doesn't matter, stroll over, carefull not to lose my footing and be swept out to sea. Lunch was out of the question. Kids were a smurfish blue hue. So was I actually.

Went back to the hotel, The Estrella Beach Resort. What a dump. Less said the better. Suffice to say, southern Californias trailer parks must have all been empty, because most of the denziens seemed to be letting their dogs swim in the pool at the resort that week.

Changed into dry clothes and started navigating for downtown, fording rivers the whole way. Ate lunch at a Cafeteria on the opposite side of Tourist street from El Rey Sol. Again filled with locals. So good. Had Chille Reanolls (I can't spell, reallnos? reanlos? You know what I mean.) Wife had Carne tacos, kids had quesdillas, (for about the 8th consecutive meal). Meal was started with a superb chicken vegetable soup with rice on the side for adding to the soup. Perfect lunch for a cold wet day. No liquor, highlighted my alcoholism though.

Dinner was at La Finca, down by the waterfront. Shared the Chateaubriand for two with the wife. Chimichurri on the side. Served atop a large bowl filled with mesquite, which while impressive, and a pretty neat fire hazard, particularly with two four year olds at the table, ensures only the first bite it actually rare, by the end the meat was well done. I also have my doubts that the chateaubrinad was actually made with fillet and not some artfully arranged piece of faux fillet shaped beef, but it was still tasty none the less. And cheap so, I can't really complain. Only disapointment was I asked to see the wine list. After my first three selections were unavailable did the waiter share the secret that they actually had nothing from the list in house, I should have known better when observing a sign that read "Cava" and had an arrow pointing upstairs.

Edited January 5, 2005 by Keith Talent (log)

[chefsteban]

Alright Keith, I'm glad most your adventure was a blast.....and I know EXACTLY what you mean about the Estero Beach Hotel......altho I believe your word "dump" means that they have made improvements since last I was there.

Your trip to the blowhole is priceless! I've been there on the rain too.

Also glad that you had some great meals down there.....where else did you eat and visit? Come on man...details! details!

[Keith Talent]

Lets see, on the way down we stopped at Villa Ortega in Peurto Neuveu for the traditional fifteen dollar "lobster". This is our second year stopping at this place, and lets just say, you come for the view/deck/sunshine and not the crustacean. Cold, tough, overcooked. Pretty good margarita though, although in my experience, the first margarita south of the Rio Grande always tastes excellent.

Then Mahi Mahi as detailed above for dinner. Breakfast at the hotel. Coffee and pastry. Someone needs to tell the Mexicans, and maybe the Italians could also sit in on the meeting, that they aren't nearly as good pastry bakers as they think they are. Lunch at the Cafeteria detailed above (I have no idea why it was called a cafeteria, more like a diner/coffeeshop. Ahhh! Cafe=coffee. I get it.) Dinner at La Finca after checking out a place just North of town on the west side of the highway, south of the Punta Moro resort, its' name I can't recall. We didn't eat there as it was slightly too formal for a couple of little kids.

Breakfast the next day was forgetable, whatever it was. Lunch was in some gringo taco stand in Rosarita, filled with suburban LA kids trying to act street. The waiter who was also the owner brought us one of virtually everything on the menu, why I have no idea, fortuneatley the place was cheap and a twenty covered the tab.

We had universally good salsa and chips almost everywhere. I suspect the tomato shortage has improved tables everywhere. We received salsa verde made with tomatillos and a new salsa, one that was red but seemed to consist primarily of dried red chilis rather than tomato, warm but not hot, it was a vast improvement to my palatte to tomato based salsa.

Our dining choices were rather random, based on whatever restaurant we happened to be walking past when the regularly consistant cloud bursts happened rather than any cohesive plan. .

Got massively lost in Tijuana on the way home. Flooding had closed the roads to the border, we were told to turn right at the first light, except the street slowly and sneakily turned into a full blown freeway prior to our seeing any lights. We suspect the cop meant to say where the light once was, or is possibliy planned on going. Anyway after driving what seems like half way to Tecate, I clued in and through sheer blind chance managed to stumble across the Otay Mesa crossing, mostly through a vague notion that there was a truck crossing east of downtown, and by following 18 wheelers with California plates, (and a few judicous u-turns). Our other option was enroll the kids in school, wait for them to learn Spanish and get some directions home. Lucky we found Otay Mesa, although to be totally honest, the Mexican street sign installation and maintence department seems to work about as well as the dead animal at the side of the road removal system, so there you have it.

Then to compound things, Highway 74 east of Temecula into Palm Desert was closed due to a washout, so more backtracking on the way home. It took a long time to get home that night, it seemed longer after my wife made the tactical error of giving the kids Krispy Kreme and Sprite in the back of the car to keep them happy. Slight hyper after that.

Ole. I love Mexico. I think next year for our annual post Christmas trip we'll go to San Felipe on the other side of the Baja on the Sea of Cortez, somewhere we;'ve only been once before.

[shelora]

Your writing style is always so entertaining, K.T. Great descriptions and sounded like a fun adventure.

By the by, it's chile relleno or plural, chilies or chiles rellenos. My favourite dish.

Cheers,

Shelora

[chefsteban]

well I am glad that you could see humor in that trip home and I am happy that your spirit wasn't dampened and that you are wanting to return to Mexico...Thats the spirit!!!

You will love San Filipe. The town is much more layed back than Ensenada or Rosarito but the dining is still as good--especially if you love FRESH seafood. When you are ready to go, let me know Keith, and I shall send along my list of thangs-to-do.

[Keith Talent]

The only thing I really remember about San Felipe is renting ATV's and bombing around in the sand dunes, then stopping at a corner store to buy a cerveza, because really, what goes better with inexperienced helmetless death machine riders than beer? Oh, and I also remember getting a steak that should have caused mass protests from the Mexican leather tanning association for intellectual property copyright infringement.

Thanks, it won't be til next year, but I'm sure in the process of searching info I'll find your offer. Look for an email/pm in about eleven months from me.