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London in April


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Yes, it's still November, but I've just booked flights and lodging for a week's stay in London with my husband and two children, and now I'm starting to think about food.

We've rented an apartment a few minutes walk to Gloucester Road Tube. I stayed nearby a couple of summers ago, so I know there's a Waitrose there. It was fine, but if there's a better option I'd be happy to hear about it. Bakeries and takeaway in the area would also be helpful info.

The children are 11 and 14, both very well-behaved and used to eating a wide range of foods in both upmarket and ethnic restaurants. So I'm anticipating a couple of evenings out with them. In the interest of providing a thoroughly English experience I'm considering Rules (either pre- or post-theatre).

Along ethnic lines we'd like to do Indian (or some variation thereof), either up or downmarket. By way of reference, we live in an area with lots of very good Indian options, and were a bit underwhelmed by dinner at Veeraswamy two years ago. We'd also like to do something along eastern European/Russian lines. Wodka sounds interesting (and near our apartment)---any firsthand experience, or alternate suggestions?

An altogether eccentric request, likely not possible: dinner or tea dances. Web searches come across occasional references to both at the Savoy, the former on Fridays and Saturdays in the River Room, the latter Sunday afternoons, but the Savoy web site mentions neither, so probably old information. Any other options?

Finally, upmarket for just me and the man: last visit we did lunch at Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's. Apparently not everybody's favorite, but we had a great meal and great service. This time we're looking to do dinner, again considering Claridge's, but also other outposts of the Ramsey/Wareing empire as well as Le Gavroche. Other suggestions welcome.

Thanks in advance for all assistance.

Can you pee in the ocean?

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Pham sounds very nice, and possibly an option for lunch if we're in the area, but we eat so much sushi and other Japanese routinely (kids included) that it's not the sort of thing we look for when touring.

While I'm posting I'll go ahead and ask about options for Sunday dinner in Greenwich. We'll likely take a tour of Greenwich Sunday morning (if the weather's reasonable) with a visit to the Maritime Museum in the afternoon. Our last visit we ate at a pub with a garden, the Gipsy Moth. Not bad (roast lamb, I think), but a change would be nice.

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Delighted to see your post therese, I will be following this thread closely as I too, have just booked a trip for next April with my husband and two children (3 and 11). It will be our first family visit, on our way to stay with friends in Berlin. I'm most curious about the ability to dine at restaurants with a small child, as well as an older child, as most of the reading I've done seems to either assume children only eat fast food (mine don't) or stay at home. Pham sounds like a good choice for my older girl, she would probably choose to eat sushi everyday.

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re India the venerable Bombay Brasserie, just round the corner from Gloucester Road, the obvious option

You're going pretty well with the Waitrose actually. There is also a *very* posh Sainsburys up the road

Upmarket - 1880 at the Bentley Hotel is also a short trip up the road. Good cooking - great value - seven courses for forty quid hard to go wrong (although the room itself is a bit Dead)

cheers

J

More Cookbooks than Sense - my new Cookbook blog!
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re India the venerable Bombay Brasserie, just round the corner from Gloucester Road, the obvious option

You're going pretty well with the Waitrose actually. There is also a *very* posh Sainsburys up the road

Upmarket - 1880 at the Bentley Hotel is also a short trip up the road. Good cooking - great value - seven courses for forty quid hard to go wrong (although the room itself is a bit Dead)

We actually stayed at the Millennium Baileys, home of Bombay Brasserie, on our last visit. But I'd not heard of it previously, and it was in the hotel (often the kiss of death in the U.S.), so gave it a miss in favor of Veeraswamy. So now's our chance.

The Waitrose did seem quite sufficient to our needs, with a nice selection of ready-to-eat sorts of things. And I bought absinthe there as well, not the sort of thing I necessarily expect to find at my local greengrocer's. Of course, now that I know that there's a really posh Sainsbury's up the road I'll have to check it out as well.

I'll look at the 1880 and see if it fits it with our plans.

I've already booked at Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's one evening, so here's hoping the experience is as pleasant this time as it was the last time around.

Delighted to see your post therese, I will be following this thread closely as I too, have just booked a trip for next April with my husband and two children (3 and 11). It will be our first family visit, on our way to stay with friends in Berlin. I'm most curious about the ability to dine at restaurants with a small child, as well as an older child, as most of the reading I've done seems to either assume children only eat fast food (mine don't) or stay at home. Pham sounds like a good choice for my older girl, she would probably choose to eat sushi everyday.

I shudder to recall the days of dining (and I use the term loosely) with a 3-year-old, though yours may be considerably more patient than mine were. We're also not a fast food or chain restaurant sort of family, and generally relied on restaurants that were either ethnic or loud or both. Outside dining is also a nice option---the pub where we ate Sunday lunch in Greenwich (Gipsy Moth) had a large-ish outdoor beer garden that would have worked for a young child.

This trip will be the second abroad for my children. The first was two years ago, to Venice, and they were pretty much perfect the whole time. Of course they're old enough now to stay alone if they don't want to go out with us, so even better.

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An altogether eccentric request, likely not possible: dinner or tea dances.

The Royal Garden Hotel's Manhatten night might fit the bill. The food should be pretty sound as well, chef Steve Munkley is not a big name but respected in the industry and the restaurant currently rates 3 rosettes in the AA guide which is not too shabby. These nights sell out well in advance so I'd keep an eye on the website for dates for when you are over and book it up as soon as you can if you are interested in going.

The refurbishment of The Waldorf will be complete by the time you get here and they used to be famous for their afternoon tea dances. With any luck they may well revive them.

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The Royal Garden Hotel's Manhatten night might fit the bill. The food should be pretty sound as well, chef Steve Munkley is not a big name but respected in the industry and the restaurant currently rates 3 rosettes in the AA guide which is not too shabby. These nights sell out well in advance so I'd keep an eye on the website for dates for when you are over and book it up as soon as you can if you are interested in going. 

The refurbishment of The Waldorf will be complete by the time you get here and they used to be famous for their afternoon tea dances. With any luck they may well revive them.

Exactly the sort of thing I'm looking for, particularly the nice dinner part of it, as that's often not a prominent part of these evenings. The Tenth's sample menu on the web site looks reasonable.

Saturday is unfortunately not optimal, as we arrive around noon on a Saturday (April 2) and leave the following Saturday AM. My husband's an easygoing sort, but even he may balk at the idea of a gala evening that features jet lag. Friday's the best, and I'll contact both the hotel and the orchestra to see if there are any Friday options. And would this be a tux/formal gown sort of thing, or just jacket/tie/cocktail dress? Hmm, packing a tux in a carry-on...

I'll write The Waldorf as well---I'd actually contacted them before our last visit, and was told they'd stopped having tea dances after 9/11 due to the decline in tourism, but if they're refurbishing perhaps they'll start them back up.

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I would imagine just a jacket and tie and cocktail dress would do it. As far as I am aware Manhatten nights are Saturdays only but they may have somethig similar on other nights, you never know.

I'll check into it. Another option would be a nightclub that features either ballroom (very unlikely) or swing dancing (popular here, though still difficult to find in a nightclub setting). Some clubs have swing dances on off nights like Wednesdays, and then we'd have the flexibility of dining elsewhere.

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You're also a short walk to Fulham Road - so Tom Aikens and Bibendum. Cinema - Fulham UGC and Sophie's Steak House across the road (medium to good burgers, steaks). Equal distance to museums - Victoria and Albert, science etc. Albert Hall for concerts. Hyde Park for art galleries, tying the kids to trees and running away, picnics, boat rentals...

Short walk also to Wagamama's on Kensington High Streey - a fusiony Japanese place - brilliant for kids, casual - good dumplings, noodles, soups (always a tasty fall back plan). Continuing up Kensington Church Street, you'll come across Sally Clarke's (very reputable - a sort of Anglo Chez Panisse - set menu, mediterranean bent etc). Stay away from Kensington Place (restaurant, not a road) opposite above. Although the fish shop next door to Kensington Place is supposed to be excellent.

On Saturday or Sunday (can't remember), an organic farmer's market in car park behind Kensington Place.

Oh, there's an apparently good Polish restaurant in the back streets of Gloucester Road - I think it's called Wodka.

A good if expensive second hand book shop on Gloucester Road south of tube.

These are all walking distance, anyway (if somewhat optimistically).

"Gimme a pig's foot, and a bottle of beer..." Bessie Smith

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According to the 2005 Time Out Eating and Drinking Guide, The Savoy, The Ritz, Hilton's Windows in Park Lane and The Lanesborough all offer dinner dances on both Friday and Saturday nights. Prices range from 42.50 up to 80.00 per head depending what night and where you go.

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Have stayed a number of times at the Millenium Gloucester, just across the street from the Millenium Bailey.

The Sainsbury's, by the way, is about a quarter of a mile west of the Gloucester tube station on Cromwell (158a Cromwell Rd). It does have a better selection than Waitrose, but, as you, we usually find the Waitrose sufficient for our needs.

For Polish food have not tried Wodka, but there is the Ognisko Polish Club, 55 Princes Gate (just walk down Exhibition Road). It is located in a Georgian Mansion (look for the address, the only sign is a relatively small bronze one on the building itself) and is fairly well appointed. They serve traditional Polish food, such as beet soup with dumplings and galonka, as well as a more continental cuisane. The cost for an entree is, as I recall, about 10 to 17 pounds or so.

Were at 1880 at the Bentley (27-33 Harrington Gardens) just a short stroll from your hotel just a few weeks ago. The tasting menu was good but not inspired, and there was almost nobody there when we went.

The Bombay Brasserie we found good but overpriced.

Rules is great, and we like the Dorchester and Connaught, but the latter two are a bit stuffy, particularly, I would think, for children.

Have not been to Le Gavroche or the Savoy in a number of years, so am no help there. Except they get great reviews.

Enjoy.

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While in London, try these two... The Texas Embassy (near Trafalgar) and St. John's (near the Farringdon tube station).

The latter is the restaurant operated by renowned chef Fergus Henderson, author of the Nose to Tail Eating cookbook. Prices at both are reasonable (about 15 quid per plate for mains) and the food is anything but boring.

Unlike here in the US, some of the best restaurants are often found in UK hotels - as you may have noticed by reading this thread - so if you see one that strikes your fancy, don't be afraid to have a go.

Best Regards

- CSR

"There's something very Khmer Rouge about Alice Waters that has become unrealistic." - Bourdain; interviewed on dcist.com
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According to the 2005 Time Out Eating and Drinking Guide, The Savoy, The Ritz, Hilton's Windows in Park Lane and The Lanesborough all offer dinner dances on both Friday and Saturday nights. Prices range from 42.50 up to 80.00 per head depending what night and where you go.

I've now sent email inquiries to all of the above listed establishments, clearly establishing myself as demented.

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While in London, try these two... The Texas Embassy (near Trafalgar) and St. John's (near the Farringdon tube station).

The latter is the restaurant operated by renowned chef Fergus Henderson, author of the Nose to Tail Eating cookbook. Prices at both are reasonable (about 15 quid per plate for mains) and the food is anything but boring.

Okay, so I'm going to have to say that the idea of eating at someplace called Texas Embassy while visiting London is, um, unappealing. And the menu does little to quiet my misgivings. In any case my husband is from Texas, so it would be a case of coals to Newcastle, or fajitas to San Antonio, or something.

St. John, on the other hand, looks fantastic. The Spitalfields location (Bread and Wine) is even more appealing than the original actually. Herring roe on toast? It's a long way to go for breakfast, but I just might. And it's nice to know that chitterlings (or chit'lins, as they're often called here) can be sampled without the trouble of home preparation.

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Hyde Park for art galleries, tying the kids to trees and running away, picnics, boat rentals...

The children are old enough that we no longer need to go to the trouble of actually tying them to trees and running away if we want to avoid them: we simply tell them to go away and they oblige.

But this option might come in handy for nixienox and her younger brood.

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Hyde Park for art galleries, tying the kids to trees and running away, picnics, boat rentals...

The children are old enough that we no longer need to go to the trouble of actually tying them to trees and running away if we want to avoid them: we simply tell them to go away and they oblige.

But this option might come in handy for nixienox and her younger brood.

St Johns looks like the kind of London restaurant I was hoping to try, thank you. As for the suggestion about how to dine without the kids, here I was thinking they could wander the market while we eat. Actually this restaurant might make me consider attempting to dine without them.

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Hulloo...

If you're staying near Gloucester Road tube station and feel like somewhere local for dinner you might want to try out L'Etranger, a swanky gallic-asian fusion place with a fantastic wine list. Check it out at http://www.etranger.co.uk/

You also might want to venture in the direction of High Street Kensington and try out the Abingdon if you're in the mood for a gastropub. And if you're still in the mood for a gastropub and don't mind a short taxi ride, the Havelock is always good.

Your kids might enjoy Giraffe on High Street Kensington (and other various locations in the city)

By the time you get to London in April the Masala Zone which is opening up on Earls Court Road right across from my flat (!) should be finished. They do modern Indian food in a stylish environment for a reasonable price-- there's also locations in Soho and Islington.

As far as bakeries and stuff go, there are lots of French patisseries closer to South Kensington tube station (the gallic area of town)-- if you just wander the side streets you are bound to find one. The Institut Francais in South Ken has a cafe as well. Closer to your hotel there is a funny little bolthole called Fait Maison, which is a deli/cafe/takeaway place with nice food.

I could go on but the dining possiblities are truly endless (a definite reason why I love living here so much!)

have fun

Elizabeth

(aka Izabel)

Elizabeth, AKA Izabel_blue

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Great suggestions, and thanks to all. So far our plans include Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's for a mid-week dinner, either The Ritz (£75/person) or The Lanesborough (£48/person) for a dinner dance on Friday, St John one evening, Masala Zone (assuming the new branch is open) one evening, Wodka one evening, and Rules (pre- or post-theatre) one evening.

Hmmm, that's six evenings, one of which is Sunday, and we'll likely have had Sunday dinner in Greenwich and will still be a bit jetlagged and so not likely to want dinner out.

Maybe I'll move St John to a lunch slot---what would be interesting to see near Spitalfields? Do other plan their sightseeing around restaurants?

And any suggestions for Sunday dinner in Greenwich?

Finally, which dinner dance? The Ritz features a band called Ray Fernandez Sound whereas The Lanesborough had the Confrey Phillips Trio, with Confrey Phillips (assuming he still participates) having been a bit of a name back in the 50's. Any comparisons on the food to offer?

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The Ritz has more history, and a newish chef.

Definitely more history, a very compelling argument. Anybody actually tried the newish chef's work?

And of course now that I've read about New Tayyab I'm clearly going to have to try it. Doesn't sound as if there's any point (or need) to book, so we can play that one by ear. I looked it up on another site and mention is made of the necessity to BYOB. Is this still the case? And there's a sweet shop next door apparently, which will keep the kids very happy.

Maybe we'll just skip the sights altogether, and just stagger from restaurant to restaurant.

Oh, and this place would be perfect for you, nixienox, as it meets both of my "ideal for dining with young kids" criteria: ethnic and loud.

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St. John, on the other hand, looks fantastic. The Spitalfields location (Bread and Wine) is even more appealing than the original actually. Herring roe on toast? It's a long way to go for breakfast, but I just might. And it's nice to know that chitterlings (or chit'lins, as they're often called here) can be sampled without the trouble of home preparation.

Och, I didn't think about the new location. Yes, it's better suited for the London visitor.

Use this link The London Tube Guru to find your way around and plan stops. It's an interactive site that allows you to pick the tube station of interest and see what is in the local area.

In the E1 district (the East End), there is very little to see as it's primarily industrial. But there are couple of sites you might be interested in. Not far from Spitalfields Market (a fantastic venue known for its takeaway eateries), is the Whitechapel Art Gallery (nearest the Aldegate tube station) which is famous for it's modern art. It's a brilliant little gem.

And, you are only a block or two north of the Tower of London.

Hope that helps.

Best Regards,

- CSR

Edited by C_Ruark (log)
"There's something very Khmer Rouge about Alice Waters that has become unrealistic." - Bourdain; interviewed on dcist.com
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A great little take away place for roast chicken and potatoes several different ways: Rotisserie Jules. Bute Street, South Kensington. Not a big place. They also deliver. 020 7584 0600. Tube: South Kensington. Since everyone seems to be recommending Polish restaurants, another fun little place in this neighborhood is Daquise. 20 Thurloe Street. The atmosphere is fabulous. The food is simple and the service can be questionable (but usually entertaining!). And a terrific bookstore next door! Very walkable from your neighborhood. But it doesn't sound like you're going to need a take away!

Baker & Spice, 47 Denyer Street (off Draycott Ave in South Kensington), SW3, 020 7589 473475; or Salusbury Road (Tube: Queen’s Park), 020 7604 3636; or Elizabeth Street (not far from Sloane Square and just up the street from Victoria Coach Station. Poilane is on the next block). Wonderful pastries, delicious prepared foods, great lattes and, at all three locations there is a communal table with a block of butter which you help yourself to, along with huge pots of their homemade jam. Pricey, yes, but almost everything is organic and great care is taken in selection of ingredients used.

I haven't been to St John B&W, but I ADORE the original St John.

kit

"I'm bringing pastry back"

Weebl

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Forgot to say - there's a frighteningly good French bakery on Gloucester road - on the left hand side as you head towards the park. Does some of the best croissant I've found anywhere.

"Gimme a pig's foot, and a bottle of beer..." Bessie Smith

Flickr Food

"111,111,111 x 111,111,111 = 12,345,678,987,654,321" Bruce Frigard 'Winesonoma' - RIP

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