Mexican in Vancouver

[stovetop]

Wow, Stovetop, you covered a lot of ground there! (Including one hell of a long sentence!)

Run on sentences are my forte.

You can't appreciate what good Mexican food is all about until you've eaten from a little road side food cart just about anywhere in Mexico and tasted the purity and depth of flavour that comes from a few ingredients (that -should be- but is hardly ever duplicated here).

Wow; nicely said; this conjures up so many beautiful food images in my mind. Food comes from raw ingredients, the road side cart is so close to the source, it can not help but be good, and there is something about chowing down on some good eats on the street.

Doing authentic regional Mexican food requires someone who is versed in the craft and an owner or chef who is not afraid to explore. Stubborn Vancouver knows the existing Mexican restaurants and may take a while to warm up to new ideas. Although once they open the door, it could be a perfect timing for a new regional Spanish and Mexican place; there might not be any burritos or deep fried food there.

What you will see is great Moles, stews, stuffed corn husk dishes, great local grown chicken and beef dishes. The sea will bring all the great Mexican coastal area cuisines with fresh salsas, Chile paste, civiche and so much more.

Hey wait a minute this philosophy can apply to any good food, if the chef spends some time sourcing out their ingredients and does a little research on his or her menu engineering and bring the seasons into the foreground by building on the accessibility of food at its peek and the cost being lower because of availability.

The biggest problem for restaurant buyer’s theses days is they are being swayed by the so called easy purchasing from Sysco, and all in one purveyor. This system though does not bring best quality but food products that all taste the same. They are also very expensive and can sometime s be very inconsistent because of their sweeping buying practices, searching the market for the cheapest product available at the time.

This does not produce:

the purity and depth of flavour that comes from a few ingredients (that -should be- but is hardly ever duplicated here).

; Yes you are right it does not, it makes Taco Bell; as we say in the trade use the KISS method, keep it simple stupid.

steve

[Keith Talent]

First, I agree with Sam re. Que Pasa, their stuff is very, very dull. It resembles Mexican in appearance only, and even then it's really only a fascimile. I live very near their retail outlet, and they do have an outstanding selection of chilis, but c'mon, how can anyone defend a supposedly mexican food purveyor that both sells and uses COLBY cheese?

Their fresh corn tortillas are pretty good though. Cheap, and pretty much the only outlet for corn tortillas that I know of. They don't taste "mexican" but then nothing in this town does. They are at least as good as the supermarket brands you can buy in the states at every grocery store.

We used to periodically drive to Bellingham for Mexican food, maybe ten/twelve years ago, back when the dollar was strong and the border crossing easy. We had three or four different places we'd frequent, although I have no idea if any of them are still there.

[shelora]

Well, I have a few ideas about menu items for a Mexican restaurant in Vancouver. Are you surprised?

You could call it coastal and interior cuisine.

First off are picadillos. In fact, I'm making one this evening. Picadillos come in many different colours and flavours. A typical one, that I'm making is ground pork sauteed with almonds, olives, capers, tomatoes, Mexican oregano, mint, onions and garlic. This aromatic mixture is reduced and then stuffed into a rehydrated ancho chile. Made ahead of time and heated to order, served with either a cinnamon scented tomato caldo or a light cream sauce.

The meat can be changed with ground turkey, ground chicken or a mix of pork and beef.

This dish gives you an example of the trade exchange between the Spanish and indigenous - the olives, capers thang is also an ingredient in the classic treatment known as Veracruzana, whereby snapper or even cod or even halibut is sauteed and served with a sauce of tomatoes, garlic, olives and capers. The concept can easily be morphed into a vegetarian dish with spinach, pine nuts and goat cheese in a fire roasted chile.

Soups - are easy and run the gamut from simple caldos, Sopa de Tortilla (great profit margin) to a complex sopa de Mariscos (seafood soup)

Chile Rellenos - feature item, perhaps changing weekly. STuffed chiles both fresh and fire roasted or dried chiles, battered or not. Lots of dried chiles are better hydrated with a bit of tequila, orange juice and piloncillo (traditional cane sugar, easy to obtain). Served with a tomato caldo. I've served the smoke chile pasilla served warm with a filling of peaches and queso fresco. The reduction of the tequila. orange juice marinade was exquisite.

Lots of seafood - ceviche, tacos (fish tacos, baja-style), whole fish,

Meats - pibil style, baked in banana leaves,smothered in achiote pastes (easy to obtain) served individually - pork ribs.

Moles and Pipianes - a must. Pipianes are sauces made with almonds.

Moles run the gamut, some with nuts, some without, most without chocolate. Of course, you would have the chocolate one just cuz that what everyone is used to.

Just a few food items to get you started.

Decor.

Sorry but you'll have to check your papier mache parrots at the door. Outside the door.

Warm colours, a deep brick mole colour on the wall.s Art work consists of prints from the 1930's artist, Carlos Merida depicting traditonal costumes of the peoples of Mexico and/or large B & W photographs of Mexico, close ups of the agave plant, which is used to make tequila.

Thats is for now, dinner calls.

s

[shelora]

Oh yes, one more thing or two.

Beans. Frijoles. We would only use heirloom varieties of black beans. They are tiny and full of flavour - I just had some the other day. We would be working directly with growers there to supply us, along with coffee and hand harvested salt of Guerrero.

Cheers,

S

[shelora]

Back to the menu ideas.

It would be ideal to have fresh tortillas being made out in the open in the restaurant, so an open griddle area, doesn't have to be big.

Tamales are important. Small (tamalitos) can be served on the side of some plates. Larger ones for an appetizer or even to be worked into a main. Made with fresh chanterelles are awesome. In corn husks or banana leaves.

Salsas - this subject alone can keep you busy for the rest of your life. But two signature salsas need to be determined, a red and a green.

NO combination plates and no platters of food.

The bar would need to have good tequilas and perhaps serve a tasters plates, as it were. A selection of three different 100% agaves, like a silver, reposado and an anejo, maybe a house made sangrita to go with that. I also love being served tequila in a cucumber, like some places do in Mexico City. Great wine selection to match Mexican food and good beer on tap.

Snacks, pepitas (toasted and salted pumpkin seeds) and what I like to call zocalo nuts, peanuts roasted with garlic and chile de arbol (easy to obtain).

Bigger appetizers, quesadillas with quality cheese never cheddar or mozzarella. Stuffed fire roasted jalapenos with mint and goat cheese.

Any meat served will be top quality, organic free range. Perhaps, depending on the location, we could do pit-cooking for special occassions.

With a restaurant like this there is the slight problem of educating the clientele without being off putting. A delicate balance.

And I have to correct something I said earlier. Pipianes are made with pumpkin seeds, not almonds.

Oh yes and dessert......................

[Daddy-A]

Shelora, let us know when you've put a little thought into this okay?

With a restaurant like this there is the slight problem of educating the clientele without being off putting. A delicate balance.

With food this good, I don't think you'd have a problem. As long as the place isn't draped in Mexican blankets and sombreros (i.e. cliche Mexican), I believe the West Coast palate is adventurous enough to try things out with an open mind. As long as the ingredients are good & fresh, the food will do the educating for you.

Tequila is another story however ... getting customers out of the marguerita mind-set. We brought back some anejo, el Jimador & Jose Cuervo (sorry, liked the bottle), and none of our friends could understand that this was a liquor you sipped not drank out of somebody's navel. There is a small tequila culture in Vancouver, but it would need to be cultivated.

Tamales! A subject near & dear to me. There is a Tamale thread over in the cooking forum. Until I get adventurous enough to render my own lard, I'll be buying my tamales from la Salza.

A.

[Keith Talent]

I kind of thought the point behind the tortilla comment was that they were invented in Northern Mexico, err, California and have since headed south from whence they came.

And to answer why we have no good Mexican, I've always kinda assumed that it's because we have no Mexicans. Although that does seem to be changing. Rather than importing Eastern European strippers, as noble a cause as I believe that is, we should have an immigration lottery south of the Rio Grande for 50,000 people, the only priviso being that they need to settle in and around Vancouver, we'd see a pretty prompt change to this thread were that to happen.

["T"]

Has anyone been to the place on the corner of Kingsway and Broadway?

I think it's called Rancho? Maybe?

[jayhay]

I walked past Primo's on west 12th today, & got to wondering...has anyone had been there lately?

Started by a Mexican born BC Lions football player, it was the only place in town for Mexican food for many years.

[eatrustic]

I was in about a year ago. The best tequila in the house was Cuervo Gold if I recall and the food was quite forgettable

[Keith Talent]

Anyone ever try the little storefront Latin-American joint on the westside of Pacific, just north of Drake? Kinda across the street from the Roundhouse? Walked by the other night with a friend that lived in the neighbourhood, asked him if he'd ever tried it, he said his in-laws had and didn't like it, so no. Pretty clear example of the dammage one disgruntled diner can have.

[Xando Head]

Keith -- I think you mean Bananos.

Yes, I have eaten there quite a few times after my husband's Saturday football/soccer game in David Lam Park.

The proprietors/chefs are from Venezuela. It is a very casual, mom-and-pop (though I've never seen any "pops" in the store come to think of it) type of place -- odd hours, small menu.

The food is good and fresh, if not something to rave over. Little to no service (counter ordering), but a decent place to go to have a small, fresh lunch.

[Keith Talent]

Bananos, that's it. Thanks. I'll try it soon.

[dodger]

There is a little tiny place in Steveston called (oddly enough) Little Mexico Cantina. Great food with warm and cheerful service. It was started by a couple from Mexico (the husband takes care of the back end, his wife the FOH) Marcia (Marcy) and Peter.

We have been regulars there since they opened and have never been disappointed. The decor is a bit over the top, but as the owners say "That's what people want, they ask for all this crazy stuff to be put up...they bring us these things back from Mexico...what can we do but put them up!"

The menu is simple but very well executed and if your up for something truly Mexican, just ask whoever is serving you (usually Marci herself but it could be her daughter) to get Peter to make something special for you.

Authentic Mexican in Vancouver??? Yup. Simple, uncomplicated and delicious.

Oh yeah...the prices are awesome.

Check out their web site:

http://www.littlemexicocantina.com

No I am not being paid to pump the place up. I'm just showing that Mexican can and is being executed in Vancouver.

Cheers....err...Ole!!!

John

[eatrustic]

There's also a little place on E. Hastings (2522- same block as Scardillos) called El Pulgarcito. The owners are Salvadorian - they purchased it about 4 months ago from the old owners.

I haven't had a chance to try it yet but it is very clean with a few tables and a little grocery component with some of the staples for making Mexican and Salvadorian food. Even some frozen items.

They do a combinaton of simple Mexican and Salvadorian cuisine.

[dodger]

Salvadorian cuisine...sounds interesting!!! Any examples for us ??

John

[eatrustic]

The most common Salvadorian food (around here) is the Pupusa which is a thick masa dough patty stuffed with anything from cheese to pork. They also make a hearty beef soup (Sopa de Res). They do nice spiced Salvadorian style turkey Tortas (which are a latin panini) as a special. Other than that I haven't really explored outside Mexican cuisine too much.

[SBonner]

I just noticed that a Mexcian restuarant is opening on the corner of Abbott and Cordova in the next several weeks. Strange location that has never worked.

Stephen

[Zucchini Mama]

Tacos Mexico Rico

Authentic Mexican Food

102-440 W. Hastings St. (Near Richards Street)

It's been a bit of an education, reading this thread. I've never been to Mexico, and don't know much about the cuisine. I did pick up a beautiful Mexican cookbook from the library and was surprised because most of the ingredients were completely unfamiliar to me. So when an artist from Mexico asked me what she should bring up for me I said "Cajeta. I want to try this thick caramel sauce made from goat's milk." It was caramel times ten and I loved it-just ate it out of the jar with a spoon.

I was very happy when dulce de leche finally showed up here in Vancouver. I don't understand why we don't import native Mexican ingredients. Sounds like we don't just need a restaurant, we need a revolution. Funny, because this weekend I met someone from central America who is very active around food issues. He and a group of friends (recent immigrants) get together every month and cook a meal that reminds them of home. I am looking forward to learning more about the food-related projects he's working on, (and hoping for a dinner invite)!

Anyhoo, I'm taking a class at SFU Harbour Centre and have to catch a quick bite in the lunch break, so I discovered Tacos Mexico Rico-which is a different name from the place, same location? mentioned upthread. I will ask how long they've been owners next time I go. I tried the sopes: "Thick hand made tortillas with beans, lettuce, sour cream, guac, feta cheese and your choice..." My choice was Pastor (pork in a red spice sauce.) I had this with a sweet milky drink (which wasn't on the menu), spiced with cinnamon served over ice. I loved the milky drink with the spicy food-like a lassi with curry. The sopes were very comforting-three for $7.99. I could only eat two, and took one home for breakfast. The pork was very dry, but moreish. It was almost like a spicy dried meat. On the way out I noticed homemade cake which I could not pass up, so I got a piece of triple milk cake to go. It was milky, creamy, sopped in a milk sauce, and very similar spicing to the drink. This is home cookin'. Really nice people dishing up comfort food.

Some interesting menu items: Lengua (tongue) tacos, Birria Jalisco style (BBQ lamb), Pozole Michoacan Style (corn grain with pork stock or chicken stock and a deep fried tortilla and lettuce), and Carne Tampiquena?.

I will definitely go back next week to try other dishes.

Zuke

By the way, our local grocery shop East West makes a really good finely cut homemade salsa-red and green versions. I think the owner might be Mexican, but I haven't been able to figure it out yet.

[Zucchini Mama]

Ask and Ye Shall Receive

And I did receive a dinner invitation-tonight! Turns out the Cocina Latina America Collectiva (sp?) meet a block from my house the first Monday of every night. Tonight's menu was from Cena Salvadoreña: repollo guisado (garlic and cabbage cooked in a tomato sauce with a touch of cloves-seemed totally Hungarian to me!), frijoles fritos, arroz, cuajada, Plantano frito, home made tortilla, queso fresca and hot chocolate. What a lovely evening! The cooking is all volunteer and the object is to share the food and culture of Latin America. Some people want to practice their Spanish, and others, their English. The meal was free, and a great deal of time was spent at the end of the meal discussing whether or not they should have a suggested donation of one dollar. I suggested they put out a box and people could donate a dollar or more if they wanted. One of the cooks came out and showed us how to make quesa fresca- wow! I didn't understand what the tablet was she used to curdle the milk, but it worked very quickly, she added salt and it was delicious-very subtle-not as salty and briny as feta, and softer.

One of the participants, Franciso, has a background in agriculture and is interested in issues of teaching people to eat inexpensive nutritious meals based on Latin American recipes. He is also interested in teaching people how to grow their own food in their gardens. Darn, I wish I spoke Spanish. I was trying to explain the Slow Food Movement to him. I think it's a shame that the Slow Food Movement seems so elitist-really expensive to join. I was trying to tell him about the Slow Food Ark-anyone a Slow Food member here?

Anyway, anyone who's interested in these meals, PM me, especially of you speak Spanish, because you'd get more out of the evening. They will probably have to move to a different space eventually, because I think once the word gets out, they'll need more room. I was so moved by the passion these people had for sharing their food, and was I touched by their generosity.

Zuke

[shelora]

had this with a sweet milky drink (which wasn't on the menu), spiced with cinnamon served over ice.

It's called horchata - silent h with little rolled r. Made from rice.

Pozole Michoacan Style (corn grain with pork stock or chicken stock and a deep fried tortilla and lettuce),

The corn grain is called hominy corn.

Sounds like a great find. Nothing I like better, than a little lengua.

[Jaymes]

...home made tortilla

I am curious about this. I don't believe Mexican-style tortillas are common in El Salvador, so I'm wondering, was it like a Spanish tortilla -- an egg dish? Or a type of stuffed pie thing? Or were there quite a few Mexicans there and they just wanted tortillas, even if the theme was El Salvador?

[the Bill]

the salsa verde at East-West on Main is a favourite...the woman who runs the cash register makes it on wednesdays. (she's no more Mexican than I am)

the couple who own the elegant Italian restaurant that I went to a few weeks back, turn out to be Bulgarian. I'm beginning to think a love of food suffices...not the nationality, not being brought up in a given culture, but experimenting with what is available.

[Zucchini Mama]

"I am curious about this. I don't believe Mexican-style tortillas are common in El Salvador, so I'm wondering, was it like a Spanish tortilla -- an egg dish? Or a type of stuffed pie thing? Or were there quite a few Mexicans there and they just wanted tortillas, even if the theme was El Salvador?"

Jaymes,

Definitely not an egg dish. The women we sat next to were from Chile, I know there were people from Ecuador and Venezuala, but I'm not certain there were any people from Mexico there at all.

Like I said, a lot of it went over my head because I don't speak Spanish. I only know how to say "I will not marry you." I also can count to ten...and dance a bit of flamenco.

Olé!

Zuke

[gerald]

There is a great mexican joint in kerrisdale called banana cafe on 41st, mom and pop op, very fresh very good flavours, complex spice not a hammer you in the mouth experience