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Rebel Rose

By Rebel Rose
in California: Dining

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ludja

ludja

Posted
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Just got my AAA magazine for Nov/Dec and they had a story on "How Fine Food Won the West". As part of it they had a section on restaurant's 'worth making a detour for'. click

Has anyone been to any of these?

CHEF’S TABLE Fresno, Calif.

731 W. San Jose Ave. (559) 227-5800.

After cooking at top Bay Area restaurants, Fresno native Malachi Harland came home this year to open an outstanding bistro. The centerpiece: a communal table by the open kitchen. The menu might include Kadota figs wrapped in prosciutto and crème brûlée studded with wine grapes.

ERNA’S ELDERBERRY HOUSE Oakhurst, Calif.

48688 Victoria Ln., (559) 683-6860.

Austrian Erna Kubin-Clanin opened this gourmet oasis near Yosemite in 1984. These days, chef James Overbaugh showcases opulent ingredients like wild mushrooms, port, and truffles. He doesn’t shy away from classically rich sauces, and his smoked duck appetizer shows exactly how marvelous these sauces can be.

RED TAVERN Chico, Calif.

1250 the Esplanade, (530) 894-3463.

Chef Craig Thomas treasures the foods of Spain, and in summer he makes both a classic tomato gazpacho and an especially lovely white version with almonds and melon. He often broadens his menu with something like salt cod fritters. "People love ’em," Thomas says, "but they’re still tiptoeing around the esoteric items."

TIOGA TOOMEY’S WHOA NELLIE DELI Lee Vining, Calif.

22 Vista Point Rd., (760) 647-1088.

In 1995, Matt Toomey pulled his Harley up to this Mono Lake Mobil station and started making sandwiches. Today, he turns out pistachio-crusted rack of lamb, zesty steak Caesars, and more. (Closed December through March.)

"Under the dusty almond trees, ... stalls were set up which sold banana liquor, rolls, blood puddings, chopped fried meat, meat pies, sausage, yucca breads, crullers, buns, corn breads, puff pastes, longanizas, tripes, coconut nougats, rum toddies, along with all sorts of trifles, gewgaws, trinkets, and knickknacks, and cockfights and lottery tickets."

-- Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 1962 "Big Mama's Funeral"

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Lois

Lois

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Has anyone been to any of these? 

...

RED TAVERN Chico, Calif.

1250 the Esplanade, (530) 894-3463.

Chef Craig Thomas treasures the foods of Spain, and in summer he makes both a classic tomato gazpacho and an especially lovely white version with almonds and melon. He often broadens his menu with something like salt cod fritters. "People love ’em," Thomas says, "but they’re still tiptoeing around the esoteric items."

I've been to the Red Tavern several times, and it's really excellent. I'm originally from Chico and it is head and shoulders above anything we had there back in the day when I lived there. (I actually wrote them up myself once, in a brief piece.) It reminds me of some of the best neighborhood places in San Francisco--not the big flashy places, but spots where you can get innovative yet simple and very well-cooked food.

The other places mentioned are not ones I've been to, but I've heard good things about all of them except the brand-new place in Fresno; this piece was the first I've heard of that one. There is, however, another very good place in Fresno called Echo.

Edited by Lois (log)
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ludja

ludja

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...

. There is, however, another very good place in Fresno called Echo.

I found this LATimes review by Russ Parsons from last year and he agrees as well. Thank you for mentioning ths, it sounds like a special place.

click

It's simple, elegant, delicious food, the kind you expect to find at Chez Panisse and Zuni Café in the Bay Area, and Lucques and Campanile here in L.A. But the difference is, it's in Fresno, and most of the fruits and vegetables that are served were grown within a half-hour's drive.

For a main course, how about albacore tuna poached just until silky in olive oil and scented with basil and "burnt" tomatoes? Madera County quail stuffed with a rich filling of brioche, caramelized onions and almonds?

...

One thing I remember for certain was the elation I felt when I was finished. I wanted to hug everyone in sight. I felt like I'd witnessed a small miracle. This was beyond good food; it was the building of a dining oasis in what had been a culinary desert. As soon as I paid my bill, I made reservations for the next night.

Read the whole article. It's inspiring to hear the whole story of the restaurant and how it came into being. The decor sounds wonderful as well.

Edited by ludja (log)

"Under the dusty almond trees, ... stalls were set up which sold banana liquor, rolls, blood puddings, chopped fried meat, meat pies, sausage, yucca breads, crullers, buns, corn breads, puff pastes, longanizas, tripes, coconut nougats, rum toddies, along with all sorts of trifles, gewgaws, trinkets, and knickknacks, and cockfights and lottery tickets."

-- Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 1962 "Big Mama's Funeral"

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Lois

Lois

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Thanks for the link, ludja. The decor at Echo was great when I went (earlier this year). However, I've heard that they were planning to move out of the old, funky, slightly gritty, slowly gentrifying part of Fresno they were located in, to the more recherche part of town. I don't know what happened with the great murals they had, but I'm sure the food would still be excellent, whatever the location.

You know, there's now very good food in Lodi, too, and Woodland. Still no joy in Stockton or (as far as I know) Modesto.

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ludja

ludja

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Thanks for the link, ludja. The decor at Echo was great when I went (earlier this year). However, I've heard that they were planning to move out of the old, funky, slightly gritty, slowly gentrifying part of Fresno they were located in, to the more recherche part of town. I don't know what happened with the great murals they had, but I'm sure the food would still be excellent, whatever the location.

You know, there's now very good food in Lodi, too, and Woodland. Still no joy in Stockton or (as far as I know) Modesto.

Good to have the update on the relocation.

Any hints you can recall in Lodi or Woodland? I escape the Bay area vortex every once in awhile and find this thread very helpful in addition to interesting.

"Under the dusty almond trees, ... stalls were set up which sold banana liquor, rolls, blood puddings, chopped fried meat, meat pies, sausage, yucca breads, crullers, buns, corn breads, puff pastes, longanizas, tripes, coconut nougats, rum toddies, along with all sorts of trifles, gewgaws, trinkets, and knickknacks, and cockfights and lottery tickets."

-- Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 1962 "Big Mama's Funeral"

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Lois

Lois

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In Lodi, Wine & Roses (also a hotel and spa) for high-end; School St. Bistro for lunch or casual dinners. I haven't tried Rosewood (I think that's the name), which is also owned by Wine & Roses, but bet it would be good. (I think all of these are mentioned in the Short Stop article on Lodi in the very same issue of Via you cite.)

In Woodland, there's a year-old place called Tazzina Bistro, run by a young woman who's a native of the area, that I liked very much.

Davis is also getting some good spots (Seasons, Tucos Wine Bar), and Sacramento's restaurant scene is absolutely booming, with some really good high-end places and tons of new stuff. But I guess Sacramento isn't actually out of the way.

In Chico, aside from Red Tavern, there's also the Raw Bar (sushi and other things). The Fifth St. Steakhouse has good steaks.

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eje

eje

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My wife and I had a very nice dinner at The Boonville Hotel this last Saturday.

Low-key friendly service, tasty food, and a very good (amazingly well priced!) wine list.

They need to remember to spell check their menus before they print them; but, other than that, I have no real criticisms.

-Erik

Edited by eje (log)

---

Erik Ellestad

If the ocean was whiskey and I was a duck...

Bernal Heights, SF, CA

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winesonoma

winesonoma

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Anyone know of anything interesting around Larkspur and Petaluma?

I had lunch today at a new place in Petaluma, Grafitti. Excellent food. I had the crab cakes. http://www.graffitipetaluma.com/

Bruce Frigard

Quality control Taster, Château D'Eau Winery

"Free time is the engine of ingenuity, creativity and innovation"

111,111,111 x 111,111,111 = 12,345,678,987,654,321

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ludja

ludja

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In Clovis...

Ronnis Suburban and others discuss Trelio Restaurant in this thread.

It looks to have nteresting, fresh, imaginative food.

"Under the dusty almond trees, ... stalls were set up which sold banana liquor, rolls, blood puddings, chopped fried meat, meat pies, sausage, yucca breads, crullers, buns, corn breads, puff pastes, longanizas, tripes, coconut nougats, rum toddies, along with all sorts of trifles, gewgaws, trinkets, and knickknacks, and cockfights and lottery tickets."

-- Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 1962 "Big Mama's Funeral"

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