Innovation in Italian cooking

[balex]

One of the things that is most striking about Italian cooking, and the general restaurant culture, to an outsider like myself is how extraordinarily conservative everything is. Do you think this is a weakness or a strength? It helps preserve some of the culinary infrastructure of markets and suppliers and so on, but it does seem to stifle innovation.

[Faith Willinger]

There are some chefs who are totally experimental, like Gianfranco Vissani, playing with new techniques and unheard of ingredients. I usually try to avoid them. Most of the hot young chefs stick pretty closely to regional flavors, even when they do wild and crazy things--foams, jellys, cryovak, whatever. I think that the tried and true regional flavors have stood the test of time. These are dishes that people want to eat over and over again. Although I've had many delicious innovative preparations, I've never had one that I've lusted to eat again. Massimiliano Alajmo at Le Calandre in Rubano is a great example of a creative chef working with classic concepts, impeccable ingredients, innovative techniques. Antonello Colonna at his restaurant in Labico, is another fine example of a creative chef working within a regional context.

a presto

Faith

One of the things that is most striking about Italian cooking, and the general restaurant culture, to an outsider like myself is how extraordinarily conservative everything is.  Do you think this is a weakness or a strength?  It helps preserve some of the culinary infrastructure of markets and suppliers and so on,  but it does seem to stifle innovation.

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[Bux]

Faith,

I'd like to add my thanks for taking the time to be with us and answer our questions. I'd also like to piggyback ride on Balex's question.

For all of my adult life, which means most of the last half the last century, Italy has been among the vanguard in terms of art and design, certainly among the visual arts and even more so in design. In particular, Italians have often been in forefront of creative thinking and design in those areas that touch our daily life. I'm thinking of architecture, interior design, furniture, product design and fashion. I'm sure most people in Italy don't necessarily live in an avant garde home or wear the latest fashions, yet these fields attract men and women who make an international splash with their creativity. Why has this not been paralleled in food and restaurants?

[Faith Willinger]

Ciao Bux

I think that in the same way that architects or artists study the classics, and fashion is inspired by the past, Italy's most creative chefs draw on a regional palate but take it to a different level. But many chefs are content to reinterpret the classics. I don't know if you've ever been to the Salone del Mobile in Milano, but the major part of the stands display very conventional furniture, much of it ugly beyond belief. The cool, cutting edge stuff gets all the attention, but I imagine that the reproduction antiques and ugly modern design outsell the more creative stuff. And sometimes, the things that looks so exciting are uncomfortable, impractical or don't work. I find the same thing to be true with creative cooking--but add tough on the digestive system.

By the way, I'm almost as obsessed about design as I am about food. The chairs at my beat-up, old-but-not-antique table in Florence are the Bellini, beautiful, comfortable, inexpensive, designed by Mario Bellini, manufactured by my brother, Alan Heller.

a presto

Faith

Faith,

I'd like to add my thanks for taking the time to be with us and answer our questions. I'd also like to piggyback ride on Balex's question.

For all of my adult life, which means most of the last half the last century, Italy has been among the vanguard in terms of art and design, certainly among the visual arts and even more so in design. In particular, Italians have often been in forefront of creative thinking and design in those areas that touch our daily life. I'm thinking of architecture, interior design, furniture, product design and fashion. I'm sure most people in Italy don't necessarily live in an avant garde home or wear the latest fashions, yet these fields attract men and women who make an international splash with their creativity. Why has this not been paralleled in food and restaurants?

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[hathor]

Salve`!

What an interesting topic. My husband and I are about to become involved in a project that encompasses design, food and lifestyle. The truly difficult part is balance. Balance between what is comforting, but giving it a little bit of an edge; for both dinner and the sofa.

Your thoughtful replies are helping me to focus on this. Thank you for participating in this forum!

Grazie, from a dedicated hedonist!

hathor

[albiston]

Faith,

thank you for your inspiring answers. We have been talking about the difference between trattorie and ristoranti, or if you like between traditional and creative cooking in Italy and your replies have had a very stimulating effect on that discussion. Your comments on chefs like Alajmo, Colonna and Iaccarino (in another thread), startled me at first but made me think and see a certain kind of Italian creative cooking in a different, and maybe more intriguing, light.

Because of your stimulating views, and your unique position as adoptive Italian (may I call you so?), I couldn't think of anyone better to answer a question on Italian restaurants and foreign press I've been thinking about for a while now. Both Italian press and food lovers, often accuse the foriegn press of ignoring the biggest cooking talents and instead of continuing to focus only on Italian traditional cuisine. In a way we do feel a little captive of our own traditions, making our strength the reason that prevents creative cooks being taken seriously. In a way, why is it OK for the Brits and the Spanish to be wildly creative, just to name two countries with top chefs often appearing in the media, and not for the Italians? Do you think there is a bit of prejudice in the foreign press when looking at the Italian scene?

[Bux]

Faith, thank you for your answer. Although my travels in Italy have been fewer than those in France, or even Spain, they date back to the days when it was almost impossible to get a bad meal in France at any price. Even then however, I was prone to suggest that although I found the heights in France more interesting, I ran far less of a chance of walking in off the street anywhere in Italy and getting a disappointing meal than I did in France.

I find intellectual creativity stimulating be it in art, design or food, but I'll admit that creative food can often fall short of pleasing. More to the point of your response however, I am trying to remember in which country I had the greatest chance tof sitting in a chair and being uncomfortable. I think that would say a lot about a country's attitudes towards daily life.

[hathor]

In a way, why is it OK for the Brits and the Spanish to be wildly creative, just to name two countries with top chefs often appearing in the media, and not for the Italians? Do you think there is a bit of prejudice in the foreign press when looking at the Italian scene?

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[Faith Willinger]

Ciao Alberto

Thank you for your high praise. I've lived in Italy longer than I lived in the US and consider myself a born-again Italian.

I think that most Italians want to eat the kind of food they grew up with at home, most of the time. Americans view this kind of cooking, home-style, as Italian comfort food. Restaurants that serve creative cuisine are a challenge, not exactly like eating at home. And they're almost always expensive. I think that frequently the foreign press (often guided on regimented press trips) doesn't have the time, money or knowlege of Italian food to understand what's going on in the most creative restaurants. They'd rather be eating at home, with someone's mythical mamma serving bowls of spaghetti. So the formality and experimental nature of creative restaurants is not what they're looking for. I think they don't have the same expectations in Spain or the UK. And the French--don't get me started about the "F" country. The great exception to the kind of press you're talking about is R. W. Apple, who writes about foods, restaurants and wines of the world with wisdom, experience, an open mind and palate.

a presto

Faith

Faith,

thank you for your inspiring answers. We have been talking about the difference between  trattorie and ristoranti, or if you like between traditional and creative cooking in Italy and your replies have had a very stimulating effect on that discussion. Your comments on chefs like Alajmo, Colonna and Iaccarino (in another thread), startled me at first but made me think and see a certain kind of Italian creative cooking in a different, and maybe more intriguing, light.

Because of your stimulating views, and your unique position as adoptive Italian (may I call you so?), I couldn't think of anyone better to answer a question on Italian restaurants and foreign press I've been thinking about for a while now. Both Italian press and food lovers, often accuse the foriegn press of ignoring the biggest cooking talents and instead of continuing to focus only on Italian traditional cuisine. In a way we do feel a little captive of our own traditions, making our strength the reason that prevents creative cooks being taken seriously. In a way, why is it OK for the Brits and the Spanish to be wildly creative, just to name two countries with top chefs often appearing in the media, and not for the Italians? Do you think there is a bit of prejudice in the foreign press when looking at the Italian scene?

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