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Need Buenos Aires Recs


halland
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I'll be in Buenos Aires in April and am starting to plan out my trip. Are there some neighborhoods which are more saturated with good restaurants, street food, and cafes?

Since Buenos Aires is the Paris of the Americas, which neighborhood is the Marais of Buenos Aires?

Hal

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I'll be in Buenos Aires in April and am starting to plan out my trip.  Are there some neighborhoods which are more saturated with good restaurants, street food, and cafes? 

Since Buenos Aires is the Paris of the Americas, which neighborhood is the Marais of Buenos Aires?

Hal

Not familiar with Marais, but the neighborhood you're looking for is Palermo Viejo, now also known as "Palermo Hollywood". Lots and lots of new hip restaurants and bars. I particularly recommend Olsen as a new interesting place with good food.

If on the other side what you're looking for are places where you can have excellent meat you can go to either "La Costanera", a restaurant zone facing the river (not what it used to be but still good) or "Puerto Madero", an area of recycled docks and wards. (fancier and more touristy).

There are also a few good areas outside the capital, to the north.

hope it helps, let me know if you need more info.

Silly.

We''ve opened Pazzta 920, a fresh pasta stall in the Boqueria Market. follow the thread here.

My blog, the Adventures of A Silly Disciple.

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Do you mean like Le Marais as a near Easten/Jewish neighborhood, or as a gay hangout?

Hard to say what would equal Le Marais, the ambiance in Palermo Viejo is more like a 1950s version of Rome's Trastevere area. But it does teem with all sorts of eateries, though I think the restaurants in Puerto Madeiro far superior in quality.

Try also the Acassuso/San Isidro strip adjacent to the Polo Club. La Caballerizza is excellent, with a very good wine selection as well as unbeatable meats. But they also have another branch in Puerto Madero.

La Bistecca, La Parolaccia, Cabanas Las Lilas and El Mirasol all serve the traditional "parrilla Argentina", and all have top quality meats and wines.

Sucre in Alto Palermo also comes to mind, had some great fish there, served with a Bloody Mary sauce (alcohol-less).

Kansas on Avenida Libertador in Martinez is wonderful too...

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In referring to Le Marais I only meant to inquire which Barrios in BA are vibrant and have activity going on day and night? Ideally I'd like to stay in a barrio that does not wind up cleared out on the weekends or in a residential area that does not have a broad variety of shops and stores, cafes, bakeries, and bars to explore in easy walking distance.

Hal

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Hal,

believe me, it would be very very hard to find an area anywhere in Buenos Aires without cheek to jowl cafes, bars and restaurants. It's a city that never sleeps, and no self-respecting Porteno would even dream of dining earlier than 10 p.m.

I agree about Palermo, any time of day it's safe, very European and full of great places to stop and eat.

Recoleta is the posh downtown area, safe but for the odd incident here and there. Steer away from the restaurants around the Design Center, as they are only typical tourist traps (the Hard Rock Cafe included).

On Sundays, I strongly recommend the San Telmo area for the open air antique market, live tango in the streets, and some nice bars all around. At night the place comes alive in a different way, and the tango night clubs are absolutely great.

Boca is a must see, but not great for food.

Good luck, I am sure you'll love BA, and her people.

P.S.

Re Le Marais, I find it kind of dead nowadays. Les Halles next door has more and better restaurants.

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Recoleta is not exactly downtown :smile: Last few times I stayed at Hotel Etoile Right next to the recoleta cemeteria - A must see place. This is a nice hotel (I knew the magic word)

Check out the general description of Bs As food scene at the beginning of this section.

Sepcifics: Apart from small cafes in San Telmo, there are restaurants in Puerto Madero. Cabana las Lilas is the more renowned steakhouse. For other information on Bs As and EZE and travel checkout online Clarin or Ubbi (in Spanish) or Buenos Aires Herald in English - Enjoy EZE

Edited by anil (log)

anil

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So does this mean that its preferable to stay in Recoleta than in the Financial District (is this Florida?)?

Hal

There is a pedestarian St. by Florida; and there is a Mall that anchors it. There used to be Harrod's there too - It closed long long ago but the space still remains vacant.

To answer your question - Recoletta is preferable :)

anil

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I just wanted to add that you will not find the likes of Le Marais anywhere in BA.

The atmosphere is completely different, more reminiscent of Italy circa 1950. The prices are incredibly low, but Argentina still has to come out of the woods, and not many goods are actually made there. Whatever is imported is very expensive, perhaps more so than in the country of origin. But do go for the atmosphere, the food (particularly the meat dishes), and, most of all, the people!

Bon Voyage!

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  • 1 month later...

GO to Puerto Madera - there are a bunch of great places on that strip. I liked the Sushi place and the traditional steak places. I also HIGHLY reccommend Sucre.

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I wanted to point out that Palermo Viejo and Palermo Hollywood are NOT the same neghborhood (although they are close). In my view, Palermo Viejo has more interesting (AND GOOD) restaurants. Do not miss Dona Tere (on Gorriti street); it's a Spanish restaurant (as distinct from Argentine) with one of the best tapas I've ever tasted.

As far as Puerto Madero goes, yes, it's pretty and fancy, but I've never been in a restaurant there where the service was even adequate and the food was usually so-so. Some of those restaurants have branches elsewhere in the city and the service in the branches was A LOT better. Also read the bill before you sign the credit card receipt; they are full of tourists and...

Buenos Aires is GREAT place (in spite of my last sentences). Enjoy!

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So does this mean that its preferable to stay in Recoleta than in the Financial District (is this Florida?)?

Hal

There is a pedestarian St. by Florida; and there is a Mall that anchors it. There used to be Harrod's there too - It closed long long ago but the space still remains vacant.

To answer your question - Recoletta is preferable :)

I would recommend trying a short-term apartment rental. Google "Buenos Aires apartments" and you'll get a lot of choices. We were at a Holiday Inn Express and moved to a 2-room apt for 1/3 the price in Recoleta, high-speed Internet, modern, clean and with maid service. A BARGAIN!

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In referring to Le Marais I only meant to inquire which Barrios in BA are vibrant and have activity going on day and night?  Ideally I'd like to stay in a barrio that does not wind up cleared out on the weekends or in a residential area that does not have a broad variety of shops and stores, cafes, bakeries, and bars to explore in easy walking distance. 

Hal

Palermo Viejo is a great area for "lively", particularly at night. You should know, however, that many shops still close after lunch. The small shop working hours are 9-1 and 3-8 (more or less); some will still close for the weekend on Saturday lunch. Just adapt your schedule to rest after lunch (not a bad idea if you eat at a parrilla where the food is endless)...Or hit the big shopping malls then.

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GO to Puerto Madera - there are a bunch of great places on that strip.  I liked the Sushi place and the traditional steak places.  I also HIGHLY reccommend Sucre.

I agree that Puerto Madera is good, and safe - but you might as well just go to anytown USA. The Hilton is so overpriced and Americanized, and you can even find a TGI Fridays on the strip of restaurants. Recoleta's Alvear Palace is the place to be, if you could swing it - otherwise, to alejita's point the short term rentals are a steal. You can find a rental practically in any area of BA thanks to the internet.

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