eG Foodblog: slkinsey's Thanksgiving Week Diary

[johnder]

Today I got my knives sharpened in preparation for the cooking to come.  I went to Henry Westpfal.

I have been looking for a place to get my knives sharpened. I was always jealous when I visited the green marked in SF how they had an on-site sharpener that would sharpen your knives while you shopped.

How much do they charge for their service and do you have to leave them or acn you just wait?

John

[little ms foodie]

Sam, great blog!!!! I just started reading and now must go back and start on page one....this isn't helping my day job you know!

I'm very interested to see what all can be made in advance and held. I did a large (for me) dinner party last weekend and made quite a bit in advance but even now see there was more I could have done. This will be a great learning experience! thank you!

Wendy

[Rebel Rose]

Sam, I've been following along with great anticipation and enjoyment! Incredible menu and great pictures!

I had a thought about the cucumber granita--even though it's a little late, and Im not sure you have them in NY . . . but darn it, this thread is like, following me around all day and I was walking by my herb bed . . .

How about a nasturtium blossom? They're edible, thin, and come in wonderful vivid colors like red, gold, orange and variegated. You could tuck a granita-filled blossom in the back end of each oyster shell. Diners could slurp the whole thing, blossom included. Nasties are very peppery and I think they would go well with the oysters and cucumber.

[slkinsey]

Sounds very interesting, Mary. Good idea to keep in mind for next year. Where does one normally find these, and is there anything one should look out for?

[Pan]

I've seen nasturtium flowers for sale at the Farmers' Market at Union Square, but I don't remember whether I've seen them sold individually or only as part of mesclun. I'm sure you could arrange to buy them separately, though, regardless.

[Liz Johnson]

OK ... after that photo, I have to steal your cranberry bellini idea. About how much simple syrup?

[slkinsey]

OK ... after that photo, I have to steal your cranberry bellini idea. About how much simple syrup?

One thing this Diary will reveal is that I almost never measure anything. I just added 1:1 simple syrup until I thought it was thin enough and until it toned down the acidity to "somewhat less than mouth-puckeringly tart." The "bellini" will really be more like a "cranberry champagne cocktail" since I will be using a squirt of the cranberry puree, then dropping in a sugar cube soaked with orange bitters, then topping it off with the cold cava.

[bergerka]

I've seen nasturtium flowers for sale at the Farmers' Market at Union Square, but I don't remember whether I've seen them sold individually or only as part of mesclun. I'm sure you could arrange to buy them separately, though, regardless.

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You can buy them individually there. I've considered it before, but never had the inspiration for anything that could be made with 'em.

What a GREAT idea that is, too.

K

[little ms foodie]

Please keep in mind that I have only gotten to page 3 today but I just wanted to throw a couple of ideas out for the next time (or person) who does this type of tasting menu. I just did one and 2 things in particular worked our really well.

1) shrimp ceviche with pomegranate and fennel. Total make ahead and the pomegranate seeds looks like rubies among the ceviche. We served this in martini glasses. Looked and tasted really nice.

2) I have wedding china and of course that comes with the tea cups that no one ever uses. I served my soup in the tea cups, perfect size for tasting menu. I had gruyere croutons in the soup and cut the bread down to fit.

I have to say that your organizational skills rock! I'm taking notes and stealing ideas for Christmas!

[bkinsey]

May I say that I thought I was well-orgainzed, but I stand in awe of Sam. It must be genetic, however, if I do say so myself. Our friend Cathy Norris wanted to know how she could get a reservation at Chez Sam. Alas, I had to tell her it was invitation only! Happy Thanksgiving to all! BK

[slkinsey]

Mooooooooooooom... you're embarrassing me in front of my friends.

[Rebel Rose]

Cooool!

Come on, Mom. More insider stories, please. His worst 'SL'-ew-up ever in the kitchen?

Else, we might think he was born with culinary talent and we'll all be coming over to your house for dinner.

[JosephB]

Uh, Sam, there's something missing in these photos.

Well, as it so happens, I am the foodblogger this Thanksgiving week as well.  We'll see how (and if!) I manage to fit meals in around all the Thanksgiving preparation.

Lunch today was in the office.  A scallion tuna salad sandwich, a can of diet Cel-Ray, a big bottle to lemon Perrier and a volume of the complete works of William Faulkner.

For dinner this evening, I was in a bit of a bind.  I've really had to clear out my freezer in order to make room for stuff I need to put in there for Thanksgiving.  One container I had in there was a bowl of frozen egg yolks left over from when I used the whites to clarify some stock.  So... if you're in the slkinsey household and life gives you egg yolks, you make egg yolk pasta.

For a condiment I wanted something simple that worked with fresh pasta.  In times like this, I always turn to what I call "sugo rosso Bavusiano" because I was reminded of it by JosephB, who is also a great proponent of this preparation.  All you need is a can of San Marzano tomatoes, a nice lump of butter, and a medium onion cut in half.  Start it all together in a cold pan and bring it slowly up to temperature.  Once it starts looking like this -- in around 30 minutes, it's ready.  Toss out the onion (it's given its flavor to the sauce) and you're good to go.  An incredibly sweet sauce, and nothing is better for gnocchi.  It also works well for fresh pasta if you want to use a tomato sauce.

The pasta went into plenty of salted water for a while, and then into a pan with the condiment.

From there, it goes to the plate.

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[SobaAddict70]

I'm in suspense.

What's missing?

Soba

[JennyUptown]

Wowie-zowie! I love this blog [except for how inept it makes me feel].

I can't wait for photos of the big event.

Hi to Sam's Mom.

Edited November 24, 2004 by JennyUptown (log)

[M. Lucia]

Not only are you preparing a fabulous Thanksgiving meal , but you are whipping up some homemade pasta only 2 days before. I am inspired. Excellent wine choices, too.

[foodie52]

Alas, there was no time to bathe the ferrets. 

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I was enjoying the sophistication of this blog and then suddenly......it was So Monty Python!

[lovebenton0]

I just have to say, Sam, that the cauliflower soup with curry oil is cream velvet bliss. I'm eating the remainder from dinner two nights ago right now. No, just the basic cauliflower soup I'm eating, not your full on two layer get it done for the holiday soup! I'm thinking about that for Xmas.

Thank you for letting us all crowd into your kitchen while you orchestrate this food romance.

[KatieLoeb]

Mooooooooooooom... you're embarrassing me in front of my friends.

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Oh this is nothing. Wait 'til she starts posting the diaper down around the ankles baby pictures!

So Mrs. Kinsey - hit us with your best shot (of Sam, of course... )

[johnder]

I may be way off base with this - but isn't there a Vong recipe using a caper raisin sauce on seared scallops on top of a cauliflower puree?

Raisins (marinated) would also go very well with the curry oil.

Just a thought.

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You are correct on this. JG in his cookbook as a recipe for seared scallops with a caper raisin sauce that is served over roasted cauliflower slices. Excellent reicpe.

[Daddy-A]

I think I mentioned this before, but I also have the advantage of having a kitchen that is open to the dining room.  So I can continue to communicate with everyone even while I am in the kitchen.

Any chance of a picture of this kitchen Sam? If it is anywhere as amazing as your knives I may just break down and cry like a 5 year old who's brother got a better trike than his.

I am in complete and total AWE of this blog and this meal. The prep and strategic planning put into it leaves me shaking my head wondering why I can't even throw together anything more than toasted cheese & tomato sandwiches for dinner most nights. I am inspired to start planning NOW for next Thanksgiving ... although being in Canada, I am already 1 month behind!

A.

[slkinsey]

Yesterday was a busy day. I ran to Zabar's during my lunch hour to pick up two loaves of brioche for the bread pudding. Later in the day, I dropped in on JosephB to pick up some books and borrow his bus bins. These are a huge advantage when doing a multiple course dinner party, because you can stack up plates, etc. in the bins as you are finished with them. This way you don't end up crowding the sink. Very important when you don't have a dishwasher.

I also picked up the turkey at Citarella. It was just over sixteen pounds.

I went at the turkey with that sharp knife, and separated it into dark meat (left) breasts (center) and bones/skin/etc. for the stock. Not nearly as much meat as you think it's going to be, is it?

After that, the dark meat went into double trash bags with red wine, port and vegetables to marinate. The breast meat went into brine in a double ziplock bag.

The bones and scraps went into the stock pot overnight. I saved a nice bit of turkey fat I can use to sauté vegetables for the dressing, etc.

This morning, I strained off the turkey stock. What you see in this picture is my Falk Culinair curved sauteuse evasée on the bottom, then a pasta strainer stock pot insert to provide some height, then a colander sitting in the pasta strainer lined with the back panel from an old linen shirt.

Right now, I am reducing down the turkey stock.

More shopping and cooking details to come later in the day.

[lexy]

I am inspired to start planning NOW for next Thanksgiving ... although being in Canada, I am already 1 month behind!

I'll say … I'm also in Canada, and this thread is making me wish next Thanksgiving was a little closer! - although it's making me look forward to Christmas all the more. Thanks for a great thread

[marie-louise]

Have the ferrets been bathed yet?

PS Welcome, Mom! Tell us more...

[bergerka]

*snort* what Sam MEANT to say was, very important when your dishwasher's name is Kathleen and she gets very cranky when the sink is crowded.

Mmm...TURKEY STOCK.

K, languishing at the day job.