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High prices for wine by the glass


Ruby

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Has anybody besides me noticed how wines by the glass, no matter how mediocre, are climbing up up in price? Today I wanted to have a glass of red wine with my burger in a neighborhood Manhattan restaurant.  Their house wine was a merlot priced at Ű.00 a glass. The whole bottle is probably Ű-10 in a liquor store. The server whispered to me "It's not very good - I'd suggest the house Cabernet (priced at ű). Now, if I were receiving something decent, I'd have no qualms but IMO restaurants are taking advantage of people who order wine by the glass and are jacking up their prices for the most ordinary wines.

At Chez Louis about a month ago, I had a very decent glass of California merlot for ผ a glass. I asked the waiter to write down the shipper for me and my local wine store ordered it for me. The retail cost was ů.99 for the bottle! I realize restaurants do a tremendous markup but what happened to the Ŭ-5 glasses of wine? This doesn't seem to be standard anymore.

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I don't disagree, but I think it's interesting to set a context.

My current experience in bars of reasonable salubriousness south of, say 59th street or on the Upper East Side, is that (outside of happy hour) I am paying Ŭ.50 for draft pints, maybe ŭ.50 for 'well' spirits with mixers, then ů or Ű for standard cocktails.  I almost never drink a glass of wine in a bar, but I guess Ů or ů would not be unusual.

I guess that is why one is not surprised to be charged Ű in a restaurant - although it does imply mark-ups of 400% or more.

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agreed.  it's very difficult these days to get something drinkable for less than 10 a glass.  i find that more often than not i'll just order a bottle (if i'm with another person).  the markup is still gross, but more palatable than the price per glass.  and of course, the selection is *much* better by the bottle, even at decent mid-level restaurants.

if i do go with a glass, i generally ask for a taste to make sure it's not completely horrible, or even turned for that matter.

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I also find it interesting that many restaurants in NYC that are popular due to good value for food still charge exorbitant prices for wines by the glass (Becco is a welcome exception to this by the way).  I was in a restaurant recently where entrees were nearly all below ฤ, yet mediocre wines by the glass were Ű-14.  Basically, the wine is just subsidizing the "bargain" food prices.  A bit silly in my opinion.

I have also found that wines by the glass are often bad due to the fact that bottles have been left open too long.  This problem is not just a factor in less reputable restaurants - it happened to me a few weeks ago at Cafe Boulud with a ภ glass of wine.  Luckily the staff at Cafe Boulud was quick to open another bottle when I pointed this out, whereas many restaurants have simpy replied with a "tastes just fine to me" and gone about their business of pouring bad wine.

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When my wife and I have lunch at a restaurant we never opt for anything more than a glass of wine each. True, it does hurt to pay 7/8 dollars for a glass of wine but I can assure you that they must pour the wine in our glasses at the table. If the wine list by the glass has, lets say, a Mondavi Red and I order that then that's what I will pay for and not some jug wine poured behind the bar. Check it out next time. You may be surprised. Not long ago a waiter at a restaurant on Columbus Ave. actually came back to our table and told us that he did not have an open bottle of the wine I had ordered and I should choose another one. When I made a fuss they did open a bottle for us and management did apologize by not charging us for the wine. Even so, I was not happy and wrote the owner a letter and let him know that that practice stinks.

Hank

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