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Paris: One new one - Temps au Temps; five repeats


John Talbott

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The fall restaurant scene in Paris: One new one - Au Temps au Temps and five repeats: L’Ecaillier du Bistrot, La Cerisaie, Les Fables de Fontaine, 2 P (Deux Pieces) Cuisine, Maison de Jardin.

Some folks have asked why I never report on repeat visits to Paris restaurants, that is, aside from my ADHD, chronic fickleness and need for novelty. OK, here’s some follow-up – all coordinates have been given in the “Digest.”

But first a new one - Temps au Temps, worth every bit the accolades it’s received, tucked away in the non-touristy but very happening 11th. Three of us ate there and did very well for 114.50 E. Firsts of rillettes of rabbit and palourdes stuffed with veggies were innovative and good; mains of scallops (without roe, with a long explanation why not) and a piece of Salers beef with a fabulous sauce and mashed potatoes which I loved (an exception); topped off with a mound of various chocolate stuff with a praline wrap, a apple tart and a sorbet; all accompanied by a surprisingly good and very drinkable Anjou.

Now, in honesty, we had stopped off first at the L’Ecaillier du Bistrot up the street, for a dozen Utah Beach oysters with a bio white wine first – we’d been impressed by them a few weeks ago and couldn’t resist the urge. Damage = 40 E.

Finally, to the repeats:

La Cerisaie remains fabulous, with a changing menu, this time a wonderful terrine, wild duck and unbeatable moelleux of chocolate; all for 171.80 E for 4; warning!, you’ve got another month before the guidebooks spill the beans.

The Maison de Jardin also holds up very well with ray, veal liver and perfect Floating Islands which even your grandmother would envy. 76.80 E for 3.

2 P Cuisine, aka Deux Pieces Cuisine; another place that holds up; the tartare of cod and scallops were perfectly prepared; the duck and pork and their accompanying potatoes exact. For 64 E for 3, one cannot do better.

Les Fables de Fontaine, was OK for the firsts of friture and the mushrooms, but fell down on the scallops and pasta a la paella. The bill = 166 for 4.

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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I am leaving for Paris next weekend and would love to take your suggestions above with me. My web search for the addresses have come up with no information. Would it be possible for you to supply the addresses and phone numbers for the restaurants above.

I would be very grateful :biggrin:

Life is short, eat dessert first

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Great meals at La Maison Du Jardin: simple, elegant, classic tastes with slight refinements and good value; Le pre Verre: very creative and unusual use of spices which worked 98% and with incredible results:at first we were put off by the menu thinking it may be pretentitios but nothing of the kind! It was fantastic: go and try his bananas with hot pepper mouse and reductio of mangoe and lilikoi ! Incrdible.

First night had a decent tradiitional meal at Le Petiti Riche: good but not great.

Thank you allfor the fine recomendations

What a city it is !

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  • 1 month later...
I love where I live, Vancouver, BC, but, Paris is bar none the greatest place on Earth.

indeed, paris is awesome. we are also back from a week in paris, and i'd like to thank people on this list, especially john talbott, for all the guidance! we were on a budget, especially considering the dreadful exchange rate. we found many restaurants closed over the christmas holidays (pre verre, temps au temps, le troquet, fish, reminet, l'ardoise, le petit machon, soit y lasse) and some difficult to book (eg, l'ourcine) but had wonderful meals in the 25-32 euro range (for either entree and plat at low end, or 3-course menu for 32) at le pamphlet, le florimond, le timbre, l'avant gout, le repaire de cartouche, as well as great couscous at chez omar, and nice lunches at delicabar and castafiore. so, while i wouldn't call this bargain dining per se, i think the value per euro was extraordinary at all of these restaurants. it was great to have a long list of choices culled from this site, and we ended up with a variety of wonderful, interesting food in restaurants where we felt welcomed and received excellent service.

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I think there are bargains at all levels of dining. Some three star restaurants are a bargain for what they offer. Of course many restaurants are unique and it's hard to compare values for what they offer. For all that, even at today's exchange rates, I think there are moderately priced restaurants that still offer more value per US dollar than most restaurants in NY, especially when you consider that tax and service (for the most part) are included. Of course dining in Paris and New York may be more expensive than in other places where the real estate and salaries are less expensive. As one approaches the level of starred restaurants, far better value can be found in the provinces, than in Paris.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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