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Shark Fin Soup: Ethics and Preparation


Roger McShane

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There is now a growing movement calling for the banning of shark products. Of particular interest are the calls for the banning of sharks fin soup.

There appear to be two reasons. The first is that much of the sharks fin is harvested by simply cutting off the fin and throwing the shark back into the ocean to die. The second is that some scientists are saying that shark numbers are being severely depleted.

Any thoughts on this matter?

Roger McShane

Foodtourist.com

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I'm almost certain that finning, as this wasteful practice is known, is illegal under United States law. It is legal to catch sharks and sell their fins, but you have to land the whole shark. This seems like sensible legislation, and I wonder what other countries have done about it.

If shark stocks are being depleted, that should probably be dealt with through the normal mechanisms of scientifically determined quotas, etc. A ban on shark fin sales, which are culturally important in Asian communities around the world, seems extreme.

Of course it's very hard to get international cooperation on issues such as this, and without such cooperation the economic burden will always fall disproportionately on the more responsible countries -- specifically, the burden will fall on hard-working fishermen.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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I agree that shark fin is culturally important to Chinese communities but that is a tricky one. For example, rhino horn is also, but does that give them the right to cause rhinos to be poached in Africa. The Japanese are currently making a play for the right to kill lots and lots and lots of whales because it is culturally important to them.

I am lucky that I live in Australia where we are satisfied if there are a few mangy old sheep roaming around our bush!

Roger McShane

Foodtourist.com

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The second is that some scientists are saying that shark numbers are being severely depleted.

As with all discussions involving species that have different subcategories (unlike panda, which are fairly obvious in the animals covered), the question of whether shark is being depleted turns in part on definition. Are particular types or subcategories of shark under threat? I doubt that the shark family as a whole is in danger of extinction or severe depletion.

As for shark's fin soup, it is absolutely delicious when well-prepared.  The textures of the separated fins, when combined with long-cooked dense chicken soup, are remarkable. Some diners choose to add slivers of Chinese top-quality ham or uncooked bean sprouts. Vinegar is also a traditional accompaniment.  By the way, in NYC, when I looked last year, the Joe Shanghai restaurant on West 56th street had shark's fin soup for under USD 15/person. It was not the best rendition of the soup I have sampled, being a bit salty and only having a few slivers of shark's fin (expected though, at that price). However, it may be worth a try. (Note the soup is not available at the Chinatown location, and members interested in sampling it should verify its availability with the restaurant.)

Note that there is fake shark's fin out there, so sampling should be undertaken with care. The item is offered at very high prices in some restaurants.

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I admit to having indulged in Shark Fin soup in HKG. I am also aware of the

growing movement to ban its use. However, Shark Fin soup, is not cheap.

I'd further venture that a good soup can run one about $50-60USD/person in

better restaurants in HKG. My last splurge was at "The Chinese restaurant" in

Hyatt Regency in TST, Kowloon.

anil

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I wonder what updates there are on caviar, which, unlike shark's fin and whale meat, is also consumed in non-Asian countries?  

I'm glad you raised this issue as well because the same thing applies. I gave up eating Caspian Sea caviar some years ago because the stocks were becoming severely depleted.

The question gets to the very heart of our responsibilities on this planet towards other humans and towards the ecosystem including animals.

Of course the issues are never black and white. Sometimes it is uncool to eatan animal or fish because it is endangered. Therefore the eating of tigers or rhinos or the (now extinct) Tasmanian tiger is an anti-social act as it speeds up the demise of the species and hence deprives future generations of access to that species.

In other cases it is uncool because the animal is considered iconic for some reason. Hence the barbaric clubbing to death of baby seals in Canada for the fur is uncool, however I see no problem with the Inuit harvesting seals for food, clothing and shelter. Similarly the elephant, the rhino and the giraffe are animals which we all consider to be iconic, therefore I would have difficulty either eating them or tacitly allowing others to do so.

In Australia we have an even more interesting problem. The kangaroo is our national emblem and is regarded overseas as representing the spirit of Australia, however, to many farmers it is considered a pest and exists in plague proportions, often to the ruin of those farmers. Now, the kangaroo has excellent, low-fat meat which is extremely delicious!! However, particualrly in the UK, there is extreme outrage about the very thought of eating kangaroo meat.

And now we return to the sea where the sturgeon, through overfishing and extreme pollution is being driven to the brink of extinction.

Similarly, overfishing of species such as the Patagonian tooth fish is causing huge problems to that species (so in US restaurants they simply call it Chilean Sea Bass to salve the consciences of the diners). Off the Australian and South African coasts the ancient Orange Ruffy (Roughy) lives to 130 years before being trawled and sold off to become a second-rate meal (people like it because it is very white - it is also quite flavourless, something which evidently is also appealling!?!).

So I believe that whenever a species is in danger, those of us with the luxury of choice in what we eat should immediately stop. Other societies don't have this luxury but the main groups causing the problem (ie all of us) certainly do have choice.

Oh well, back to that Aquitaine caviar!

Roger McShane

Foodtourist.com

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I gave up eating Caspian Sea caviar some years ago because the stocks were becoming severely depleted. The question gets to the very heart of our responsibilities on this planet towards other humans and towards the ecosystem including animals. ...

So I believe that whenever a species is in danger, those of us with the luxury of choice in what we eat should immediately stop. ... Oh well, back to that Aquitaine caviar!

Roger -- I raised the issue of caviar because I have chosen to continue to eat that and shark's fin, and, if given the chance at a reliable establishment, would gladly sample whale meat.

I appreciate the collective obligation humankind has to not cause the extinction of other species. Even before food-related considerations, humans are encroaching unduly on the habitat of other species through, among other things, commercial development and pollution. However, despite these general principles, I derive enough pleasure from eating Caspian Sea caviar (I also eat Aquitaine caviar, but that is not always available) that I have determined, on a cost-benefit basis (with my selfish pleasures weighed more heavily than the marginal benefit my single-person refusal of caviar would add to the cause of sturgeons), that I will continue to eat caviar. Now, the problem with this weighing is obviously which party receives the direct benefits (me, in the case of taking in caviar) and direct costs (me, in the case of refusing it). I accept that there are indirect and/or longer-term costs that are important.

While Acquitaine caviar can be differentiated somewhat within its own category, it does not have the range that sevruga to beluga does. Furthermore, Acquitaine caviar is not usually the caviar used at restaurants (including even most restaurants in France). Thus, if I am to take in caviar dishes at restaurants, I would generally be accepting Caspian Sea caviar. If I were to choose to forego Caspian Sea caviar (likely never), I should not differentiate between that type of caviar bought in the store and the same type of caviar sampled in a dish at a restaurant. After all, one chooses dishes when one is dining a la carte. :wink: Therefore, Caspian Sea caviar continues to flow nicely into me!

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  • 5 years later...

Recently, I was able to get my hands on some fresh shark fins. I was able to take the skin off using hot boiling water poured over the fins and scraped the scales/skin off to result in this...

sharkfin.jpg

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what type of broth I should use to make a shark fin soup?

I'm having some dilemma on what type of broth to make the soup. I was thinking of using pork ribs, chicken thigh and legs, and compoy. Perhaps a little bit of dried shitake mushrooms for added flavor. Then again, I was also thinking about making the broth simple and use only a whole chicken.

It's been a long time since I've had some sharkfin soup so I don't remember what was in the soup that I had can anyone help and resolve my dilemma with a suggestion? Perhaps a recipe?

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Does anyone have any suggestions as to what type of broth I should use to make a shark fin soup?

Chicken. Definitely chicken.

A whole chicken would do. But you need to use the "double boil" technique to get rid of the suds in the soup (from bones). And skim the fat.

I have made shark fin soup from scratch only once following a recipe that comes with the shark fin package. If I remember it correctly, the shark fin needs to be boiled (simmer) for a couple of hours. Need to put ginger in the broth and go heavy on ShaoShing wine.

"Superior" broth and shark fin. Nothing else is needed (or maybe some shredded chicken meat). Use Chinese red vinegar as a condiment when served.

W.K. Leung ("Ah Leung") aka "hzrt8w"
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When you say, "I was able to get my hands on some fresh shark fins," do you know how they were harvested? Seriously, "finning" of sharks for their fins (and China's economic surge has increased the practice greatly) has contributed massively to the crash in shark populations. It's an eco-disaster.

It just doesn't get the attention of tiger penis soup and rhino horn for bogus sexual potency remedies. But it's on par.

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I found the old instruction card for how to cook the shark fin, FYI.

(Starting from dried shark fin)

1. Place shark fin in water for one hour. Boil it in water for about 1/2 an hour.

2. Change water. Boil the shark fin together with ginger and wine (ShaoHsing) for 20 minutes. Remove.

3. Cook (simmer) shark fin in soup with chicken, ham (referring to Chinese ham) and other ingredients for about 3 hours.

W.K. Leung ("Ah Leung") aka "hzrt8w"
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Thanks hrtz8w for your recommendations. It seems that you are insistent on using chicken only broth, may I inquire as to why that is?

When you say, "I was able to get my hands on some fresh shark fins," do you know how they were harvested?

Yes I do know how the fins that I have in my hands were harvested.

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Thanks hrtz8w for your recommendations.  It seems that you are insistent on using chicken only broth, may I inquire as to why that is?

Chicken stock is more subtle and complements the delicate flavour of shark fin. Pork is ...too porky and will overpower the shark fin. Don't add Chinese mushrooms! The soup should be simple - shark fins, chicken. I don't even want ham in mine. Sometimes, egg white is swirled in just before serving.

Dejah

www.hillmanweb.com

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Thanks hrtz8w for your recommendations.  It seems that you are insistent on using chicken only broth, may I inquire as to why that is?

I agree with Dejah Dai Ga Jeah. It's just a classical Chinese recipe: chicken soup and shark fin seem to go well together. I suppose you can try other combinations if you like.

W.K. Leung ("Ah Leung") aka "hzrt8w"
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The shark fin soups I've had also always had crab meat in them.

Same here! And it's also slightly thicker than the normal soups I usually have.

Crab meat is good in the soup - texture and complementary mild flavour. The soup is usually thicker because a light cornstarch slurry is often added at the last minute.

Dejah

www.hillmanweb.com

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