Italian Cookbooks – The Best Of

[Bill Klapp]

Bravo! I will say this: I find it increasingly difficult to generalize about American chefs (or, should I say, chefs cooking in America). There is enormous diversity and considerable originality, to be sure, but also more imitative and derivative cooking than anywhere else on earth, even when it is of relatively high quality. The Kellers and Trotters can surprise, but so many others offer up pretty but uninspired "new American" or "fusion" plates that are not grounded in any particular tradition (or treading too heavily upon several at the same time). On the flip side, it should be said that the presence of strong local or regional culinary traditions, as in France and Italy, can significantly inhibit innovation and creativity, but yes, quite often providing the reassurance that you alluded to above. I suppose that I am thankful that every young chef in America isn't trying to emulate Adria (although the Sunday NY Times Magazine article worries me a lot!).

[rgruby]

It is looking pretty likely that I'll be doing a stage in Italy this summer.

I'd like to pick up one or two books to bring with me to give me a bit of context on the foods & ingredients of the different regions. I have a few Italian cookbooks - Hazan and a couple of Pino Luongo's Tuscan ones, and a few other lesser ones. Recipes are fine, but what I'm most looking for is context - history of the foods of the different regions, ingredients and their preparations. Something that covers traditional preparations and modern updates would be a plus, but I think I'm looking for something that focusses on the traditional. I'm not sure exactly where I'm going to be, so I don't want something specific to one particular region, but rather something that explores the breadth of Italy. I suppose English would be preferred, but I'm trying to learn Italian, so that would be fine too.

Waverly Root's book looks like it might fit the bill nicely, and Mariani's dictionary might also be useful. Any opinions on those two, and any recommendations on other books I should look into.

Cheers,

Geoff Ruby

[Betts]

Would Ada Boni's "Italian Regional Cooking" work for you?

[rgruby]

Would Ada Boni's "Italian Regional Cooking" work for you?

I will try and check it out.

Thanks!

[dfunghi]

This is a Book I will be getting anyday now. It sounded good to me

David

http://www.book-reviews.info/Italian_Cookb...025209159.shtml

[ludja]

Giulano Bugialli's books from the different regions of Italy focus on traditional recipes and have vary nice contextual and historical descriptions before each recipe, chapter, foodstuff. Beautiful photos also.

Edited to add: These wouldn't be easy to bring along though. They are large and each book is only one or two regions. Maybe more useful to look over before leaving...

Edited February 3, 2004 by ludja (log)

[Susan in FL]

Perhaps Carol Field's Celebrating Italy? It's about the festivals, celebrations, harvests, holidays, etc., and their foods, and includes recipes.

[chasmartel]

I learned a lot from the Waverley Root book. It is divided by region, and I remember thinking what fun it would be to travel with it. Also Elizabeth David's book on Italian cooking (a Penguin paperback). Both are a little dated, but after reading them, I felt like I had a respectable start on understanding traditional regional cuisine of Italy. Have fun!

Edit: Added a missing word.

Edited February 4, 2004 by chasmartel (log)

[russ parsons]

i've found waverly root to be fairly unreliable, particularly on italy. my favorite general italian reference is a wonderful thing published by readers digest, of all people, called grande enciclopedia della gastronomia illustrata. it's kind of a french larousse with great color photos and recipes from really good cookbooks. only problem: it's hard to find in this country (and, i should add, it's in italian).

[weinoo]

Three books that I've found useful and might fit the bill:

Pomp and Sustenance - Mary Taylor Simeti - Great book about the history of Sicilian food.

The Dictionary of Italian Food and Drink - John Mariani - nice helpful reference book.

Treasures of the Italian Table - Burton Anderson - very informative book by the well-known wine writer. Small and easy to take with you on your travels...good luck!

[Susan in FL]

Waverly Root's book looks like it might fit the bill nicely, and Mariani's dictionary might also be useful. Any opinions on those two, and any recommendations on other books I should look into.

I forgot to respond to your inquiry about John Mariani's book... I find that to be very helpful, as well.

[rgruby]

i've found waverly root to be fairly unreliable, particularly on italy. my favorite general italian reference is a wonderful thing published by readers digest, of all people, called grande enciclopedia della gastronomia illustrata. it's kind of a french larousse with great color photos and recipes from really good cookbooks. only problem: it's hard to find in this country (and, i should add, it's in italian).

Thanks for the tip on the Reader's digest book! I'll try and keep an eye out for it when I'm over there.

And, what is it about the Root book that you (or anyone else reading this) don't like?

What about Elizabeth David's book? Someone else mentioned it. I realize both it and the Root book are getting a bit long in the tooth - but this may be a good thing for my interest in getting some context on the regional (and sub-regional) differences in cuisine in Italy and some info on why or how they developed differently from the valley next door etc.

And, I've now had a look at Mariani's book - it isn't the type of book i was looking for when I initiated this thread, but I need it.

thanks everyone for their suggestions.

Cheers,

Geoff Ruby

[Bill Klapp]

Check out my post "Italian Cuisine: A Cultural History" on page 2 of this board. And I join Russ in issuing a minority opinion on Root: as good as Waverly Root's books can be at times for both Italy and France, and while few overviews as ambitious as those books have been undertaken, I think both do no better than cruise the surface, and both are seriously dated at this point (which is a bit of a slam on my part, considering how little French and Italian provincial cooking has changed over the centuries). The richness and infinite variety of the foods in each province or subprovince simply are not captured by Root's books. The books seem based upon random personal experiences, with little evidence of any scholarly effort to discover the essential dishes of a region. They are the alphas, but alas, not the omegas.

[pedalaforte]

I second Burton Anderson's "Treasures of the Italian Table." I second it and third it and ... I love this book. I've read it (sections of it) dozens of times. Seriously. It has a great premise and the writing is crisp and still current.

Also, as mentioned in another cookbook thread, Matt Kramer's "A Passion for Piedmont" is a cookbook with much deeper thoughts on food of the Piedmont. It is well worth reading -- if you can find it. It's out of print. Find it!

Cheers

[docsconz]

Italian Food Artisans by Pamela Sheldon Johns is a fine book with good writing on specific producers of quality Italian food items. Her other books are good too and a bit more in depth. I particularly like Balsamico

[rgruby]

Hello again,

I just found out that Pellegrino Artusi's "Science in the Kitchen ..." has just been reissued in Canada. Despite the fact that it is now over a century old, does anyone think it may also fit the bill for what I'm looking for?

I haven't had a chance to have a look at it yet, but any comments about the book, and its relevance to modern / current Italian cuisine as found in Italy would be most welcome.

Thanks again,

Geoff Ruby

[Bill Klapp]

Hard to know, but I wouldn't mind having a copy. Where is it available?

[rgruby]

Hard to know, but I wouldn't mind having a copy.  Where is it available?

Apparently the University of Toronto Press is putting it out. I assume this means it will be available at least in North America.

Here's a link to the article in the Globe and Mail that alerted me to the reissue: http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/Art...0221/CUCINA21//

Amazon.com lists it here: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...=glance&s=books

Cheers,

Geoff Ruby

Edited to add Amazon.com link

Edited February 24, 2004 by rgruby (log)

[docsconz]

This Amazon link is for the translation by Kyle Phillips, who does a nice job with Italian food for about.com.

[kjente2]

Lynn Rosetto Kaspar "The Splendid Table" "The Itallian Country Table"

Local tales, the people, tradition, history, geograhy, and great food.

[russ parsons]

in my experience, the artusi book offers a good look at what a very narrow segment of italian (well, tuscan ... maybe florentine?) society was eating at the time it was written (turn of the last century). but it's not really something to cook from.

on the other hand, let me second the mention of kyle phillips' work on about.com (also, he has some kind of list associated with his italian wine newsletter (sorry to be so vague, but i can't find a copy right now ... check at about.com). i really love these dispatches from italy ... kind of like the new yorker's "letters from" series, they give a real sense of what is happening in contemporary italy both food and non-food.

[rickster]

How about La Terra Fortunata by Fed Plotkin on Friuli Venezia Giulia, for a consideration of a more obscure region of Italian cusine?

Edited February 24, 2004 by rickster (log)

[russ parsons]

that's a great book on a specific region (his book on liguria is also good, and i'd also recommend matt kramer's book on the piedmont). but they won't do for a general overview, as i understand this question to be posing. take a look at claudia roden's book on italy. she's very serious and writes good recipes.

[Rachel Perlow]

Here are some eGulletified Amazon links:

The Art of Eating Well : An Italian Cookbook by Pellegrino Artusi
Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well by Pellegrino Artusi, Luigi Ballerini (Introduction), Murtha Baca (Translator)
Balsamico: A Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook by Pamela Sheldon Johns, John Pamela Sheldon
Italian Food Artisans: Traditions and Recipes by Pamela Sheldon Johns, John Rizzo (Photographer)

Please support eGullet by making Amazon links that give eGullet a commission. Click here for instructions. Thanks.

[rgruby]

that's a great book on a specific region (his book on liguria is also good, and i'd also recommend matt kramer's book on the piedmont). but they won't do for a general overview, as i understand this question to be posing. take a look at claudia roden's book on italy. she's very serious and writes good recipes.

Um, yeah, I originally asked for a general overview, but the more I learn, the more I realize that such a book, if it exists, is probably going to be superficial at best. (I did buy Root's book despite some misgivings expressed here).

So, further opinions welcomed, but at this point I'd also like to gather recommendations about regional books, whether in Italian or English. Still don't know where I'm going, but Toscana or Emilia-romagna (or the coast of Marche) look most likely for now.

Thanks for all the input so far,

Geoff Ruby