Italian Cookbooks – The Best Of

[albiston]

alberto, i'm most interested in reversing the question: what do you think are the italian books (in italian) that are most essential?

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russ,

my pleasure to answer. One book which shouldn't be missing in any Italian home is Artusi's La scienza in Cucina e l'Arte del Mangiar bene. It's outdated, old fashioned cooking, but it's the first real Italian cookbook,opposed to Italian-Regional, and the first one with tried and tested recipes for home cooks and not for pros. It's also fun to read at times.

There's loads of good regional cookbooks but it's often very hard to know what's good and what's not, or even to find these books outside their regions, or cities, of origin. I like the ones published by Newton Compton, with different volumes handling different local cuisines, available without too many problems throughout Italy. Quality varies, especially when it comes to introductory and explanatory material, but the recipes in these books are a great documentation of regional traditions, and they usually work well. I have a few of these, and my favourite is Jeanne Carola Francesconi's La Cucina Napoletana, full of information, stories, basic culinary knowledge and more; a book that would deserve being translated into English if I ever saw one.

Apart Boni's book there's a few collections of Regional recipes which are better for different reasons. Anna Gosetti della Salda's "Le ricette Regionali Italiane" is a bit old fashioned but has a wider and better collection of recipes. Gualtiero Marchesi's "La cucina regionale Italiana", is the famous chef's take on regional cuisine: the recipes are a bit too cleaned up at times but he manages to retain the essence of the dishes using lighter and more modern approach.

I like Slow Food guides on Italian Bread, Cheese, Salumi (and so on) a lot, but not their recipe collections.

Bibliotheca Culinaria publishes some interesting thematic books which are well made, but in this case we're talking haute cuisine.

[bilrus]

Nothing I've made out of the Babbo cookbook has been bad. In fact, even with my middling skill set, the dishes manage to taste fairly similar to the food at the Restaurant.

[Carrot Top]

Absolutely the best Italian cookbook I've ever seen or owned. It is sitting right here next to me and each time I pick it up it totally inspires me.

(Um, and generally I do not like cookbooks...sorry...)

"Classical and Contemporary Italian Cooking for Professionals" by Bruno Ellmer.

Just checked Amazon. There are 13 copies available. About $60. Worth every penny and more.

[russ parsons]

thanks alberto, i'll look into those. i have to admit that i use my "piccolo talismano" a lot. i haven't cooked out of artusi in the original, just translation, and perhaps it wasn't the best translation. i completely agree about cucina napoletana. i love that book (unfortunately, my only copy was "lost" due to ill-advised lending and it's almost impossible to find here ... maybe somebody smart will translate it ... hey, how about you?). my favorite general italian cookbook is "grande enciclopedia illustrata della gastronomia," published by, of all people, reader's digest. really great information and they seem to have culled good recipes from serious regional cookbooks. i didn't know there was a slow food salumi book, but their cheese one is a great reference.

[albiston]

thanks alberto, i'll look into those. i have to admit that i use my "piccolo talismano" a lot. i haven't cooked out of artusi in the original, just translation, and perhaps it wasn't the best translation. i completely agree about cucina napoletana. i love that book (unfortunately, my only copy was "lost" due to ill-advised lending and it's almost impossible to find here ... maybe somebody smart will translate it ... hey, how about you?). my favorite general italian cookbook is "grande enciclopedia illustrata della gastronomia," published by, of all people, reader's digest. really great information and they seem to have culled good recipes from serious regional cookbooks. i didn't know there was a slow food salumi book, but their cheese one is a great reference.

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Artusi's recipes can be great but are very disappointing at times. I have some tried and tested ones I use often. I think one of the problems with Artusi is the ingredients he uses: quite a few of these have disappeared, at least in the form known at the time, so one can only substitute using modern "relatives" and hope for the best.

Translating cucina napoletana.... that's an intriguing idea

I had forgot about the enciclopedia! as far as I know it has been out of print for a while. Pity, it's a book I'd buy straight away now that I'm past the pennyless student phase

Slow food will probably publish more of these reference guides, and I have the feeling they will not only concentrate on Italy. They have a complete list of those available on their SF Editions page.

[tanabutler]

Albiston, the bulk of my 40-odd cookbooks are Italian. The two I refer to most often are Lynn Rosetto Kasper's The Italian Country Table and, oddly enough, a cookbook by Patricia Wells, who is more famous for her French cookbooks. It's called

Patricia Wells' Trattoria: Healthy, Simple, Robust Fare Inspired by the Small Family Restaurants of taly. (Note: links are to Half.com, where you can find great bargains on all media.)

I had traveled to Italy in 2001, and came home longing to find a cookbook that showed me how to make the simple dishes that had wowed my daughter and me while there. I happened upon the Patricia Wells book while seeking something else, and was just thrilled. The recipes are so simple, and are ideal for someone like me, living in the Mediterranean climate of the central coast of California. I wrote an ecstatic review at Amazon that, much to my surprise, someone later pointed out to me on the Patricia Wells web site!

Many of the recipes have only a handful of ingredients, and are ideal for learning the bone structure of Italian fare. I really love this book.

[russ parsons]

it is funny (and certainly not politically correct among italian cookbook authors), but i have to say that everything i've cooked out of the wells book has been terrific. and it really tasted italian. i was very impressed.

[tanabutler]

it is funny (and certainly not politically correct among italian cookbook authors), but i have to say that everything i've cooked out of the wells book has been terrific. and it really tasted italian. i was very impressed.

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Yes, indeed. And yes, not politically correct, but did the French hate Julia Child for dialing in to their cuisine? heh

My favorites from the trattoria book, for the record, are the lemon cream pasta, the lemon risotto, and (blasphemy) the baked risotto with spinach and asparagus.

Yike, though, how could I forget my two newest additions? Two of Evan Kleiman's books (written with Viviana La Place):

Cucina Fresca and Cucina Rustica. Again, simple recipes, broad knowledge, and harmonious results.

Edited October 29, 2004 by tanabutler (log)

[albiston]

it is funny (and certainly not politically correct among italian cookbook authors), but i have to say that everything i've cooked out of the wells book has been terrific. and it really tasted italian. i was very impressed.

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Yes, indeed. And yes, not politically correct, but did the French hate Julia Child for dialing in to their cuisine? heh

My favorites from the trattoria book, for the record, are the lemon cream pasta, the lemon risotto, and (blasphemy) the baked risotto with spinach and asparagus.

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tana and russ,

the Wells book sounds really intriguing after your comments. The recipes seem indeed somewhat heretical to my Italian ears, the lemon cream pasta more than the baked risotto to be honest, but I think russ makes a great point: if they taste Italian then they're done right. I know many of my co-nationals would be horrified at this but, as much as I like tradition, I don't think it should get in the way of new ideas. In a way this sort of book is one of the things I'm looking for: a book that challenges and maybe shakes my Italian prejudices. Thanks for the tip, I'm really tempted to give it a try.

[Really Nice!]

Alberto,

Do you have the orginal Italian cookbook? Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well by Pellegrino Artusi.

[albiston]

Alberto,

Do you have the orginal Italian cookbook? Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well by Pellegrino Artusi.

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You must be kidding, right?

I actually have two: a paperback edition of the original 14th or 15th print and a hardback copy of the 1st edition published for the centenary of the book by L'Accademia della cucina Italiana, with a nice introduction on Italian cookbooks pre-Artusi. It's interesting to see how the book grew in the 20 years between these editions.

I don't cook much from it, though there are a few favorites in there. Nonetheless, as you say, it is the ORIGINAL Italian cookbook, and if only for historic reasons, it is a book not to be missed if you love Italian food.

[Pizzaiola]

Giuliano Bugialli and Michele Scicolone, among others, are major contributors to the genre.

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Thank you, Albie, for mentioning my work. Michele Scicolone

[albiston]

Giuliano Bugialli and Michele Scicolone, among others, are major contributors to the genre.

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Thank you, Albie, for mentioning my work. Michele Scicolone

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Michele,

welcome to eGullet and thanks for joining the discussion. I'll take the chance to ask straight away which of you're book you'd suggest for a first time reader of your work.

[Pizzaiola]

Giuliano Bugialli and Michele Scicolone, among others, are major contributors to the genre.

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Thank you, Albie, for mentioning my work. Michele Scicolone

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Michele,

welcome to eGullet and thanks for joining the discussion. I'll take the chance to ask straight away which of you're book you'd suggest for a first time reader of your work.

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My most comprehensive book is 1,000 Italian Recipes. It was published recently by Wiley. Michele Scicolone

Edited November 2, 2004 by Pizzaiola (log)

[FaustianBargain]

I have been reading stuff in the Italy forum. It seems to me that there is a lot about Italian cooking that I dont know about..can someone suggest a book...a fair book...an introduction to Italian cooking?

I went to the nearby bookstore and found Culinaria Italy. I dont own any of the Culinaria series. It seems interesting. Worth a buy?

edited to add: i dont want a full recipe book or someone rambling about what he/she thinks of Italian food. A mixture of both ..and then a little history, regional specialities, produce etc.

Edited March 19, 2005 by FaustianBargain (log)

[Kevin72]

I have been reading stuff in the Italy forum. It seems to me that there is a lot about Italian cooking that I dont know about..can someone suggest a book...a fair book...an introduction to Italian cooking?

I went to the nearby bookstore and found Culinaria Italy. I dont own any of the Culinaria series. It seems interesting. Worth a buy?

edited to add: i dont want a full recipe book or someone rambling about what he/she thinks of Italian food. A mixture of both ..and then a little history, regional specialities, produce etc.

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It's a good start, and certainly a great coffee table book. Seems to run out of steam halfway through though, the chapters get shorter and more cursory.

In a similar vein, the much-beloved Time-Life series, with an installment on Italy, would also be good, but they are becoming collector's items.

Marcella Hazan's cookbooks are I think a great starting point, but may not exactly what you specify in your addition at the end. She goes light on history, and sticks pretty much to the Northern regions (although I picked up my interest in Puglia from her).

Two regional books I don't have but am looking to get are Rustico by Negrin or Megrin, and Waverly Root's book on Italy.

[FaustianBargain]

I have been reading stuff in the Italy forum. It seems to me that there is a lot about Italian cooking that I dont know about..can someone suggest a book...a fair book...an introduction to Italian cooking?

I went to the nearby bookstore and found Culinaria Italy. I dont own any of the Culinaria series. It seems interesting. Worth a buy?

edited to add: i dont want a full recipe book or someone rambling about what he/she thinks of Italian food. A mixture of both ..and then a little history, regional specialities, produce etc.

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It's a good start, and certainly a great coffee table book. Seems to run out of steam halfway through though, the chapters get shorter and more cursory.

In a similar vein, the much-beloved Time-Life series, with an installment on Italy, would also be good, but they are becoming collector's items.

Marcella Hazan's cookbooks are I think a great starting point, but may not exactly what you specify in your addition at the end. She goes light on history, and sticks pretty much to the Northern regions (although I picked up my interest in Puglia from her).

Two regional books I don't have but am looking to get are Rustico by Negrin or Megrin, and Waverly Root's book on Italy.

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ahh..yes. marcella hazan, the godmother of culinaria italia. thanks for bringing her up.

[Hector]

I have been reading stuff in the Italy forum. It seems to me that there is a lot about Italian cooking that I dont know about..can someone suggest a book...a fair book...an introduction to Italian cooking?

I went to the nearby bookstore and found Culinaria Italy. I dont own any of the Culinaria series. It seems interesting. Worth a buy?

edited to add: i dont want a full recipe book or someone rambling about what he/she thinks of Italian food. A mixture of both ..and then a little history, regional specialities, produce etc.

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The Culinaria Series is great.. I've got every culinaria book I've seen..

[elephantstone]

Two regional books I don't have but am looking to get are Rustico by Negrin or Megrin, and Waverly Root's book on Italy.

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I have both of these -- Negrin's Rustico isn't bad, but it's pretty superficial, especially compared with books I have that focus on a specific region. The Foods of Italy is a great source of inspiration.

[albiston]

Faustian bargain, thanks for bringing up a very interesting topic. This is a a thread I will be following with great interest, almost all my cookbooks on Italy are in Italian but I'm quite curious about those published in English. There are a few I have myself or have given a deeper look abetween those that have been brought up in the previous messages.

Marcella Hazan's books, judging from the one I have and the few others I've leafed through, are always well made, with very good recipes and full of interesting information. My only (tiny) grudge with her books is that I, as Italian, notice where her strong and weak spots are, when it comes to different regional cooking. Southern Italian recipes in particular are not exactly worng, yet often neither how the locals would prepare them.

The Culinaria series is great for general info, though I've had mixed results with their recipes, but I find the books leave more questions open than those that get answered. Perhaps that is exactly the scope of the books, stimulate your curiosity to know more, yet I cannot help and find that somewhat frustrating. Plus, in their Italy and book at least, there's a few pages on industrial products, biscuits from a very large Italian producer for example, which I personally find out of place.

A book I found charming is Field's "In Nonna's Kitchen" full of interesting and charming stories of grandmothers' stories and recipes. A bit out of touch with modern Italy and at times slightly sterotyped, yet not to be missed to understand where Italian culinary traditions come from.

[touaregsand]

I've only read the books that Alberto mentions. I can't speak about authenticity when it comes to Italian cooking.

My one tiny little problem with Marcella Hazan's book is that she lays it on a little heavy about searching out authentic ingredients. I didn't find it terribly discouraging, but a little unrealistic considering that an English language Italian cookbook is aiming to export Italian cooking. So if the reader is told from the get go, then repeatedly afterwards that it just won't taste the same or as good without "authentic" Italian ingredients that are not widely available (some probably not at all) outside of Italy well *sigh*

As for the Culinaria series, again I can't speak about authenticity when it comes to Italian cooking, but I did notice some, not mistakes neccessarily, but holes and ommissions in some of their books on cuisines that I am much more knowledgeable about. It made me wonder what might be missing from the Italian edition. But the aim of the series seems to be to offer a sweeping view...

" In Nonna's kitchen"

at times slightly sterotyped,

We live for sterotypical Italian grandmothers in the States. We all secretly dream of having an Italian grandma who cooks and cooks and cooks with heavy doses of love.

[Kevin72]

My one tiny little problem with Marcella Hazan's book is that she lays it on a little heavy about searching out authentic ingredients. I didn't find it terribly discouraging, but a little unrealistic considering that an English language Italian cookbook is aiming to export Italian cooking. So if the reader is told from the get go, then repeatedly afterwards that it just won't taste the same or as good without "authentic" Italian ingredients that are not widely available (some probably not at all) outside of Italy well *sigh*

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That's a fair assessment. In fact I always forget her exacting demands on authentic ingredients until I reread her--I usually skip over the parts where she says that $40 for a bottle of olive oil isn't unreasonable. You should read one of Fred Plotkin's books!

Still, you look at where we are today in the U.S. with the ready availability of radicchio, fennel, arugula, blood oranges, cardoons . . . things that just 10 years ago would have gotten you perplexed looks from produce sellers had you asked for them. I can't help but think Hazan played a small part in that, having implored readers for 30 years now to seek these out and demand them. And certainly she played a key role in changing people's perceptions of what Italian food is. Not that you implied this of course, just rambling.

Also you made a good point on the gaps in the Culinaria book. Ingredients are listed but not used, or used but not listed, or just given in vague descriptions (vinegar, for instance, with no indication whether to use white or red) and there are presumptions on the familiarity of cooking terms and techniques. They repeatedly direct you to "joint" a cut of meat or bird, and I can only presume it means to take it apart at the joints, which to me seems to produce too many pieces--do you "joint" a wing and wind up with three pieces? If I do cook from Culinaria: Italy, more often than not I use their recipe as a general guide and improvise from there. But they are great to look at, aren't they?

[kjente2]

Lynn Rosetto Kasper's books. The Splendid Table (the same as her radio show) and Itallian Country Table. Both available through Amazon (link through egullet).

Excellent resources.

[Corinna Dunne]

i dont want a full recipe book or someone rambling about what he/she thinks of Italian food. A mixture of both ..and then a little history, regional specialities, produce etc.

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"Gastronomy of Italy" by Anna Del Conte (Pavilion Books Limited, London) may be of interest. It is broken into a number of sections:

The development of Italian gastronomy

The regions of Italy

Recipes

A - Z of Ingredients

Terms and Techniques

Italian wine

It's a bit of a tome, but a wonderful book. I am also a big Marcella fan.

[silverbrow]

Has anyone got any views on Artusi's "Science in the kitchen and the art of eating well"?