A Chat with Cesare Lanfranconi

[Cesare Lanfranconi]

Oh, and I really like that black and white portrait of Tosca and your other little darlings at the chef's kitchen table. What stunning work!

What can I say, though, I've always been my daddy's little girl too. 

Thanks for chatting.

Cheers, morela

hey there Morela, glad to see that you can recognize a good piece of work of art, that picture it is beautiful indeed, just like daddy's little girls too.

ciao

Cesare

[Al_Dente]

Apparently, chef Cesare is on a business trip to Atlanta, or Atlantic City, or the lost city of Atlantis. I asked his wonderful sommelier, but I do not recall.

Chef Cesare, if there is one piece of advice, how does one make such beautiful pasta at home? I had the papparedelle with wild boar. Molto bene. I nearly wept. The wine and pasta has me hallucinating.

It was transcendent.

And the pomodoro, the most perfect pomodoro my bella donna has ever tasted. It's after tomato season, what do you use? We still tasted summer in that sauce.

Thank you and Kathy (and our bartender) for a memorable evening.

Al Dente

[Cesare Lanfranconi]

Chef Cesare,

I assure you this was meant as constructive. Your reply showcases why I keep coming back to Tosca -- the pride you put into your cooking and your dedication to customer service. Your point about speaking up at the time is well taken. It was a slight difference between the new and the classic star dishes on the second or third night of the new menu. It made me wonder. That's it. It was a wonderful evening where I was able to catch up with good friends over a nice meal, attentive service, and a sommelier who graciously helped this budget-minded threesome select an interesting wine without feeling self-conscious. Your commitment to seasonal, organic ingredients is commendable because of the connection to time and place it provides to the diner, at least this diner. I expect you'll see me enjoying a bowl of your pumpkin soup with rabbit sausage at the bar quite often this fall.

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thank you, looking forward to see you soon at the restaurant to indulge in some solid fall foods.

ciao

Cesare

[Cesare Lanfranconi]

Caro Alberto,

to start, I like to point out that cooking Italian food here in the States or in Italy is about the same; starting from a stand point where we take for granted that the knowledge and education of a chef are proper, you can source basically any ingredient, we just have to make sure that passion for food, dedication and intensity are commune practices so the difference is minimal.

Caro Cesare,

First of all thanks for taking the time to take part to this discussion on eGullet. I've always wondered how cooking at in Italy and abroad compare for someone like you, that is someone with a clear knowledge of what Italian traditions are.

in a previous reply you hinted to this:

In Europe, fine dining is more tied to the traditions; with pros and cons in either situation.

In your view, what are these pros and cons when talking about Italian cooking? Does the expectations of the general public in Italy sometimes feel a bit tight, so to say, for a chef with new ideas?

Grazie!

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I think, Ideal is the situation where you learn from traditions and you build over it.

Not productive is not counting on passed experiences, or even worst, not been flexible and put your self in a position were you get stuck and are not able to make progress as a professional and/or individual in the business.

In Europe, some times (less and less every day), you find a little of resistance from the costumers and restaurant people, upon innovations or modifications, with good reasons: to preserve the integrity of the traditions, and as long as it is not extremism, it is a very important cause.

In the States, changes are more accepted; some times it is important been able to absorb, learn and use new things (techniques, ingredients, pairings etc.) for advancement, as long as it is not extremism.

Another major difference is in 'the service' that we provide in our business:

In Europe it is much more professional, there are schools and everything; the system here in the states is much different, it tends to be more casual, there is not enough formal education and the majority of it is tough on the 'field'.

Ciao

Cesare

[Cesare Lanfranconi]

Dear rhodegirl,

Dear Chef,

Thank you so much for doing this!

This past May, we took my parents and a couple of family friends to Tosca for dinner at the chef’s table. It happened to be a night when you were not there. But I wanted you to know that your entire staff did a wonderful job! Everyone – the chefs, the maitre d, the waitstaff - were gracious, professional and enthusiastic. The food was superb, truly one of our best meals ever.

Could you talk about how you and your staff decide on which courses to serve for the chef’s table?

Also, could you tell us a little more about the Farmland Feast at Tosca to benefit the Fresh Farm Market? I appreciate that you are such a supporter of local farmers!

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I make up the menu at the chef table the same day, I base my decisions upon a progression of flavors and temperatures, availability, seasons, and I usually use dishes that I'm working on to go on the new menu; really, as it come that same day!

You can find more info on the farmland feast and fresh farm market at:

www.freshfarmmarket.org

Ciao and thanks for the compliments,

Cesare

[Cesare Lanfranconi]

Cesare,

At one time you were Executive Chef at Galileo, and before that you were Sous Chef working there with Todd Gray.

How have your relationships with Roberto Donna and Todd Gray influenced you, both in terms of cooking style and in opening and running your own restaurant?

When you opened Tosca, Galileo was already an institution, and Equinox had taken shape and developed its own character.  It must have been "comforting" in a way to have had both of those restaurants to draw on, but what did you want to do differently when you went out on your own?

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I had a big experience at Galileo, both as sous chef and executive chef, a lot of work, a lot of satisfactions, a lot of fun both with Roberto and Todd, the majority of the times it was a high energy and stimulating team work environment.

I worked as if it was my restaurant, I've always work as hard as I can.

My cooking style it developed since I've born, if I was not cooking I was in contact or exposed to the many good foods, producers and restaurants in Italy or abroad. I've always knew one day I would open my own place with my own ideas and coracter; I've always tried to work in the best places possible in order to learn how to do so; Galileo was very important because it allow me to first explore, then learn the American system and Washington’s restaurants community.

[Cesare Lanfranconi]

I'd like to follow up on something laniloa mentioned--and wonder if you'd share your thoughts on budget-conscious dining. Because cooking with the seasons and foraging out the best local and imported ingredients is usually much more expensive than the casual diner realizes, especially within the context of fine dining, white tablecloths and a very stylish interior space.  Yet sometimes a little of a very expensive ingredient can go a long way. I wonder if you'd be willing to share any strategies you've developed that help you stay accessible to these budget diners, that help you stay within their reach and yet remain profitable?

So, here's your chance to offer your advice for the budget conscious diner, who appreciates very good food, but who wants Tosca to be more than just a once a year/special occasion restaurant, and tell them how can they come away with a lower check average yet still dine well in your hands.  Can they still experience Cesare and the glories of what you do at Tosca yet not spend $30 for an entree? I think you do a very special pre-theater, perhaps you could talk about how you offer such quality at that price, and how else you reach out to this diner? Is it possible to walk in and dine affordably at your bar?

And a few "budget" related followups:

1) did your restaurant suffer at all post 9/11 when it seemed diners more openly embraced "American" comfort food and when there were fewer expense account diners travelling to DC?  Did you as a restaurateur make any changes to adapt and are any of those changes still in effect?

2) I've also noticed you particpate in the various Restaurant Weeks which have been held, and for more than a few people that is likely their first time dining at Tosca. Have you found it a successful recruiting tool over time, meaning you've tracked and developed loyal customers, or is it more a short term way to fill seats and get new diners into Tosca who haven't yet been?

3) Do you feel under any pressure to offer smaller dishes, to do something like the under $10 Palena front room option?  Or would something like that inherently go against the tenets and tradition of dining which you've built your restaurant around?

4) How valuable has your membership in CIRA proven to your bottom line? Has that helped you stay competitive, stay in business?

Thanks for joining us.

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My philosophy and strategy is to observe and go with the seasons; from the farms around the area, I use a lot of peas and asparagus in late spring... a lot of tomatoes during summer... (I don’t use any during winter), only when they are at the peak of flavor and season, so the flavor is maximized and the high price tag is not 'that' high.

The pre-theater menu it is a good way to save a few bucks, another couple of suggestions:

Split your portions (they are to big anyways) so you can also taste different things;

drink water, is very good for you system, is not mandatory to drink expensive beverages at any meal.

The bar it is a fabulous option for those same reasons.

1) my restaurant did suffer, indeed, just like the rest of the industry and the rest of the world; fortunately, soon after, the good spirit of the majority of the people prevailed over all the bad vibes going around in that period.

2) restaurant week it is a very good promotion for the whole industry, it benefits directly and indirectly restaurants and patrons, as long that it is done properly with the right amount of efforts, hospitably and seriously; what's best than showcase your establishment to a large amount of people, that they can potentially come back to the restaurants; I see it as a win - win situation.

3) I think that's a smart choice, I'm not against it, at all.

4)I have to get back to you on that, right now I think it is not functioning properly, the energy on the field are not channeled in the right way.

thanks for having me

ciao

Cesare

[Cesare Lanfranconi]

Quick question- what is your favorite simple quick and easy pasta? The one that makes you feel comfortable and at home -

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the one that you'll cook with love.

I like a lot of simple pastas:

fresh tomato and basil; pesto; aglio, olio e peperoncino; carbonara...

[Cesare Lanfranconi]

Apparently, chef Cesare is on a business trip to Atlanta, or Atlantic City, or the lost city of Atlantis. I asked his wonderful sommelier, but I do not recall.

Chef Cesare, if there is one piece of advice, how does one make such beautiful pasta at home? I had the papparedelle with wild boar. Molto bene. I nearly wept. The wine and pasta has me hallucinating. 

It was transcendent. 

And the pomodoro, the most perfect pomodoro my bella donna has ever tasted. It's after tomato season, what do you use? We still tasted summer in that sauce.

Thank you and Kathy (and our bartender) for a memorable evening.

Al Dente

←

That was a food show in Atlantic City and cooking at the James Beard house in N.Y. City back to back.

Buy a pasta machine, allocate some half days to it, throw in all your passion and dedication, and come to the cooking classes I do here at Tosca, I'll give you a bunch of recipes, and show you how to make them; don't forget to get some good vino to help you keep company while you are cooking at home.

For pomodoro I use imported plum 'San Marzano' tomatoes in can now, fresh in the summer.

thank you guys for having me, it is been a pleasure

ciao

Cesare

[DonRocks]

Cesare,

I just reread through this entire thread, and your European perspective on things is very interesting. Everyone really appreciates you being here on this chat, and I'm personally looking forward to enjoying your terrific restaurant again very soon - please have an extra lobe of foie gras on hand.

Thank you Cesare!

P.S. Once again, here is the link to the thread on Tosca.