ETA and basque chefs

[francesco]

I couldn't believe my eyes when I read on the web site of the "Corriere della Sera", Italy's largest circulation newspaper, that a recently arrested ETA member alleges that four famous basque chefs, Pedro Subjana, Martin Berasategui, Juan Mari Arkzak and Karlos Anguinano have been paying the equivalent to 72,000 euros each to ETA as a "revolutionary tax". The article suggest that this was an extortion, not a voluntary contribution. Apparently, this would have been part of a larger scheme by ETA to finance itself by requesting money from businesses in the Basque country.

I have to say I couldn't find any other info about this on the net, so I just leave you with the link. Does anyone know more?

link to article

Francesco

- - -

[moderator's note: Below, Francesco posted:

I should add, for those who don't speak or understand Italian that the one chef interviewed, Martin Berasategui, strongly denies the allegations.

We believe Martin's words are as significant as those of an unidentified ETA member currently under arrest and should have been added to this post. Thus we've edited this post to stress that although this report has been published in Italy, it is one of allegations only, at this point, and allegations from an alleged terrorist.]

[malcolmjolley]

After the Gherry museum in Bilbao, the food and wine scene in the Basque Country has been attracting the most international attention. I have to admit I had never given the region much thought before reading/viewing A Cook's Tour.

While gourmandisme is generally an apolitical activity (notwithstanding GM food debates, organic practices and other regulatory battles - see the Sushi War in Toronto/Ontario), it's a good thing that more scrutiny is being put on this old conflict, wherever one's sympathies may lie.

[nimzo]

I lived in an Vizcaya town in the 80s where ETA was strongly supported and it was considered normal to pay a tax in addition to closing down the shops and offices at ETa's request as a mark of respect. I can't imagine many restaurants escaped the charges.

[docsconz]

It wouldn't surprise me at all if this were true nor would it be the first place for something like this to have occured.

The town of Getaria was fairly out in the open about supporting ETA with plenty of graffiti and posted photos of prisoners around town. This was less obvious in San Sebastian/Donostia.

[francesco]

It wouldn't surprise me at all if this were true nor would it be the first place for something like this to have occured.

The town of Getaria was fairly out in the open about supporting ETA with plenty of graffiti and posted photos of prisoners around town. This was less obvious in San Sebastian/Donostia.

←

I guess the thing that surprised me the most is how big these alleged sums of money are. The worrying thing is that if the allegations are proven to be true, whether they were forced to pay or not, there will probably be very serious consequences for the chefs. I should add, for those who don't speak or understand Italian that the one chef interviewed, Martin Berasategui, strongly denies the allegations.

Francesco

[Bux]

After the Gherry museum in Bilbao, the food and wine scene in the Basque Country has been attracting the most international attention. I have to admit I had never given the region much thought before reading/viewing A Cook's Tour.

←

Traditional Basque cuisine has always been highly regarded in Spain, and having a Basque chef was usually enough to get a restaurant anywhere in Spain some attention.

[tony h]

There's a piece in today's Guardian: click here

[pedro]

Not that I like very much the subject of this thread, but here go the original links to El Mundo mentioned by The Guardian:

http://www.elmundo.es/elmundo/2004/10/14/e...1097748228.html

http://www.elmundo.es/elmundo/2004/10/15/e...1097832515.html

http://www.elmundo.es/elmundo/2004/10/14/e...1097755986.html

http://www.elmundo.es/elmundo/2004/10/15/e...1097792427.html

[malcolmjolley]

Traditional Basque cuisine has always been highly regarded in Spain, and having a Basque chef was usually enough to get a restaurant anywhere in Spain some attention.

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Now that I think of it many a big North American city would have "Cotes de Basque" fancy restaurant in the 60's and 70's - althought the stress would be French. La plus que ca change...

[butterfly]

El Pais also had a very brief mention of this today on page 23, though there were no chefs named directly.

[docsconz]

It strikes me that if this story is true these chefs are victims.

[tanabutler]

It strikes me that if this story is true these chefs are victims.

←

It makes me so sad. Having seen the web site for Akalare, seeing the warmth in Chef Pedro Subijana's eyes—I am distraught to think that Dosconz's words are accurate.

[Bux]

It makes me so sad. Having seen the web site for Akalare, seeing the warmth in Chef Pedro Subijana's eyes—

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For many of us, these are not pictures on a web site, but chefs who have fed us, catered to our needs and who we've met. Pedro Subijana was a gracious host who went out of his way to copy a list of recommended tapas bars for us after we chatted with him.

[Bux]

Now that I think of it many a big North American city would have "Cotes de Basque" fancy restaurant in the 60's and 70's - althought the stress would be French. La plus que ca change...

←

La Côte Basque was the name of a famous restaurant in NYC, that recently closed to reopen as a more casual spot. I'm not sure if it was the inspiration for other restaurants, but at one time it was a symbol of luxury fine dining in NY, as were restaurants named ofter other regions of France opened by chefs from those regions. I don't think it had any more cachet as a place than it did as the name of that particular restaurant. In any event, Côte Basque or Pays Basque would have signified a French restaurant as Pais Vasco would have meant a Spanish restaurant in most of North America. The food at la Côte Basque was never particularly basquaise anyway. It was just the name of a place in France, a place best know to English speaking travelers for the beaches at Biarritz. Le Biarritz, by the way, was the name of another NYC French restaurant, although not as luxurious as la Côte Basque.

[vserna]

(A brief reminder to all you youngsters: The first world-famous chef who ever worked in New York was Basque, and French: Henri Soulé, the founder of Le Pavillon, the man who stayed in the city after the 1939 World's Fair and changed the local culinary scene forever. What other restaurant did he launch? La Côte Basque, obviously!)

Now on to the other, very sad part of the story - the purported payment of extorsion money by four famous Basque chefs to ETA, a terrorist group.

First of all, of course it remains to be seen if this is true. But I can only point out that in the 48 hours since the story broke, not one of them has come out and said in so many words: "No, I never gave ETA a cent." The only one who's said something, Martín Berasategui, has complained about the "unfair" situation he sees himself in, but he hasn't flatly denied the facts. (No, francesco, your information about this is incorrect...)

To me, this is especially unpleasant because I have been a restaurant critic for the past 23 years and I am a good friend of Berasategui, of Pedro Subijana and particularly of Juan Mari Arzak, whom I've known for almost 30 years and is very dear to me. I haven't met Karlos Arguiñano, who's more famous as a TV chef than as a restaurant owner (nor do I much wish to meet him after all that I've heard about him and about his attitude to this whole terrible problem the Basques have.)

However hard it all is, if it's proven to be true that one or more of them paid up, I will never patronize again the restaurants of those who did. Indeed, I cannot consider them as 'victims', even though suffering extortion threats must be a terrible thing.

First of all, four years ago my colleague at El Mundo, José Luis López de Lacalle, a courageous columnist (jailed during the Franco regime for fighting for democracy), was gunned down by ETA on his doorstep in the Basque Country for having had the gall to steadfastly denounce their crimes in his columns. If any chef is proven to have been giving money to ETA, I will always believe that the weapons used to kill José Luis were acquired with this money, and that is simply unacceptable. There are no ifs and buts in fighting terrorism.

Second, and morally foremost, if anyone is well equipped to resist and denounce extortion demands in the Basque Country, it's the native celebrity chefs, who are as close to flesh-and-bone deities as can be imagined in a society that idolizes fine cuisine. If an Arzak were to go the police, to the courts and to the media to denounce an extortion attempt by ETA, the popular backlash against ETA (even among many or most ETA supporters in the population!) would be enormous, and no one (no one!) would dare touch him or his family. ETA cannot afford to alienate its social base, which loves the great cooks and considers them as a national treasure.

Indeed that's the main difference with an anonymous businessman who gets hit by this sinister protection racket: often he has no alternative but to pay up or leave the Basque Country altogether. (More than 200,000 residents have fled the Basque Country over the past 20 years.) But the favorite sons, the world-famous stars, the idolized cooks could have stood up to the blackmailers safely and, in so doing, shown their solidarity with the thousands of people who are threatened by ETA.

A judge has announced charges of financing a terrorist group against Arzak and Subijana, while it seems that Arguiñano and Berasategui will be called to testify as witnesses. (The difference seems to be that an arrested ETA member has said that he personally collected money from the first two, while he said he sent demands to the other two but didn't personally collect from them. The arrested man is a relative of Arzak's wife.) Again, all final judgment must be deferred until the matter is cleared, and I do hope that at least three of the chefs will be cleared. El Mundo's editorial was largely correct - even though I believe it went too far in considering them as definitely guilty of the charges - when it stated:

"Whoever pays a terrorist gang in order to protect his family or his business knows perfectly that this money will be used to pressure others or to kill; in short, to feed the monster.

For that reason it's absolutely reprehensible to give in to ETA's blackmail, particularly when there are other persons who risk their lives because they are members of a political party, and others who have been murdered for not giving in to the band's demands.

The case of these cooks is more serious because they all enjoy popularity and social prestige to the point that they've become media stars, with huge contracts in television or advertising. One of them was even under contract to the Basque government to promote tourism in the region.

These famous cooks, now at the peak of success, never dared raise their voices before on behalf of the victims of terrorism. This deserves not only the rejection but even the boycott of their restaurants and their many businesses on the part of the public. This would really hinder them and make them reflect on their lack of solidarity.

At any rate they owe an explanation to the public, which is legitimately wondering about the reasons which led these rich and famous people to finance a band of killers."

Edited October 17, 2004 by vserna (log)

[docsconz]

Wow. This is just absolutely awful. Victor, I see your points. They have great merit. It is difficult to believe that anyone who can create such stunning beauty can willfully be involved with terrorists. If the charges are indeed true, it is reprehensible, but we don't know what the extent of the extortion might have been. They may be guilty and worthy of the potential actions against them that you described in your post, but they remain victims as well. Unless we were specifically in their shoes we don't really know what we would have done in their stead. This by no means justifies the situation. It just makes it that much more potentially tragic.

[bcnchef]

A very eloquent and well-written perspective Victor. I for one completely agree with you and also hope that the alleged payments were not made. If they were, I don't see how they will be able to dig out easily from the mountain of bad publicity and public backlash they will certainly face. It's a very messy and disturbing situation to say the least.

We had a heated discussion tonight during staff meal where one point of view was that they had no choice (if it is true) but to pay. I made the same argument as you, which is who else would be better able to resist a payment demand than these well-known Basque "superstars" who are revered not only in the Pais Vasco, but throughout Spain.

J.

[edsel]

Gawd, this just makes my blood boil!

This makes me think of the various restaurateur characters in Bourdain's novels who have to pay tribute to gangsters to have their garbage collected (and keep from winding up in the East River).

Victor, you're an editor of a major daily in Spain, right? Is there a sufficient level of outrage there? If not, I dare say the eGullet world will chime in.

Outrage is not inappropriate here.

[edsel]

... if anyone is well equipped to resist and denounce extorsion demands in the Basque Country, it's the native celebrity chefs, who are as close as flesh-and-bone deities in a society that idolizes fine cuisine. If an Arzak were to go the police, to the courts and to the media to denounce an extorsion attempt by ETA, the popular backlash against ETA (even among many or most ETA supporters in the population!) would be enormous, and no one (no one!) would dare touch him or his family. ETA cannot afford to alienate its social base, which loves the great cooks and considers them as a national treasure.

←

To clarify my previous expression of indignation, I don't disagree with Victor that the Basque chefs are in a position to make a high moral statement against these bullies. What makes the bile rise in my throat is the notion that they should even be placed in this position. I don't care where your political sympathies lie, it is a fundamental injustice that these people should be subjected to this abuse.

[MiguelCardoso]

I agree with every sentiment expressed by Victor and have a complete hatred not only of terrorism but of violence and crime of any kind, however subtle and supposedly victimless. Even its "milder" forms - its bullying, arrogance and prepotence - is frightening and corrupting.

However, I do think it's gratuitous (and far too harsh) to vehemently blame the victims of these pressures : they are not paying for terror, even though the money they pay may be used for the worst terrors imaginable.

Some sympathy should be extended to those chefs (or other people) who just want to get on with their work. With celebrity chefs from the Basque country, the media attention tends to present them as Spanish chefs and a lot of their most outspoken fans come from the richer, more powerful parts of Spain, such as Castile and Catalonia.

They are therefore easily seen, by extremists, as potential traitors to the Basque cause - or, at least, sell-outs. They might be viewed as contributing to the projected idea of Spain. So they must be under a lot of pressure to show that - in a sick way - their hearts are in the right place. Mainly, I imagine, they're simply frightened out of their wits. They live there. They know. Many of their customers will be nutjobs and blood bosses.

Why should chefs - restaurant owners too - be expected to put their livelihoods and talents on the line to make what are ultimately political points? We all know that Spain is a multinational, multicultural and multilingual state. It's a big problem - even without the bloodthirsty terrorists who are a shame to their own nations. Spain is a problem, even though it's lately followed an intelligent and pluralistic path. We all know, for instance, there's an "understanding" whereby Basque terrorists - due to some perverse fellow feeling for other nationalist aspirations - "go easy" on Catalonia. The same happens, btw, with Galician extremists and Portugal and, back in less civilized times, with the IRA and Ireland.

Foodies should get a grip and start trying to get a feel for all the centuries-old sensibilities and aspirations which lie beneath what they casually catalogue as Spanish or British. Both adjectives are equally fraught.

Why should we expect of these hardworking people - who live to add to our enjoyment - that they take a stand? They have taken a stand, in their chosen profession. They've excelled. In their own valuable way, they've made Spain more united. Political agendas should be spared them. They - like us - have the right not to participate.

All I'm saying is they deserve a little leeway - at least imagine you were in their shoes, wanting to get on with their own work and being threatened by stupid, unreasonable murderers who could unthinkingly kill people in your restaurant.

If it is "protection money", as it seems to be, isn't our anger misdirected? Those who cave in and go along with the threats are merely normal, timid human beings. Would we, in the same situation, refuse to be cowered and stake our lives on it?

Surely our ire should be focussed on the system of threats and, above all, on the thugs who extract extorsion from those who are merely going about their business.

Victims are victims: they're the ones who are frightened and threatened; they're the ones who pay up. Basque culture is far older than all other Iberian cultures and it's not a pacific issue. For extremists - and even democratic nationalists - the attention these chefs receive as being mainly Spanish - from the Basque country, as if it were a region like Extremadura or a state like Texas - is seen as a trump for what they see as the imperialistic, federalist way of Madrid.

It's no wonder they are under such pressure. Why shouldn't they just choose the easiest way and pay them off? I'm sure they know how wrong it is. But it's still human. People should be respected according to the happiness they give others. All the accused, as far I can see, can go to heaven on what they've already achieved.

They fucked up for the sake of convenience and lack of trouble. Is that such a crime?

A little understanding is in order, that's all I'm saying.

Edited October 17, 2004 by MiguelCardoso (log)

[edsel]

I agree with every sentiment expressed by Victor and have a complete hatred not only of terrorism but of violence and crime of any kind, however subtle and supposedly victimless.  Even its "milder" forms, it's bullying and prepotence; it's frightening and corrupting.

...

Why should chefs - restaurant owners too - be expected to put their livelihoods and talents on the line to make what are ultimately political points?  We all know that Spain is a multinational, multicultural and multilingual state.  It's a big problem - even without the bloodthirsty terrorists who are a shame to their own nations.  We all know there's an "understanding" whereby Basque terrorists - due to some perverse fellow feeling for other nationalist aspirations - "go easy" on Catalonia.

...

All I'm saying is they deserve a little leeway - at least imagine you were in their shoes, wanting to get on with their own work and being threatened by stupid, unreasonable murderers who could unthinkingly kill people in your restaurant.

If it is "protection money", as it seems to be, isn't our anger misdirected?  Those who cave in and go along with the threats are merely normal, timid human beings.  Would we, in the same situation, refuse to be cowered and stake our lives on it? 

Surely our ire should be focussed on the system of threats and, above all, on the thugs who extract extorsion from those who are merely going about their business.

...

←

Thank you Miguel for expressing so much more eloquently what I was trying to get at.

Perhaps I've got an overdeveloped sense of indignation. Victor may be right that the Basque chefs are in a unique position to challenge these thugs. I can only hope that I would have the courage to stand up to this sort of injustice, were I faced with such a challenge.

Edit: blathered on a bit.

Edited October 17, 2004 by edsel (log)

[Boris_A]

I agree, Miguel.

I think it's not ours to judge the risks - imagined or not - others should be willing to take. I applaude everyone who sticks out his neck, though. (as I applauded those who blew up Carrero Blanco)

Basta ya!

[Bux]

From the outset, this was a sad story. That it involved chefs made it relevant to eGullet, especially in that it involved some of our best chefs. That it will continue to involve chefs will continue to keep most of us focused on this story, but this thread is close to stepping over the line of discussing subjects inappropriate to eGullet. I don't consider terrorism a political act and I don't consider support of the ETA to be an issue of politics. That is not the concern. There are issues of ethics and morality that while they may be far more important than gastronomy, are also far outside the reason for eGullet to exist. Elsewhere one can argue the merits of endangering someone else to save one's self or of endagering a number of others to save one's family. I don't know that paying others so that no one is killed in your restaurant is a an act with which I can sympathize when the alternative is to close the restaurant, especially when it has to be realized that the money will be used to kill others elsewhere. Nevertheless, I can certainly empathize with those who faced that decision, but this is not the place for us to carry on that discussion.

As Victor says, it remains for it to be seen if this is true, but if it is, it will mean that my visits were not necessarily the contribution to the peaceful cultural, economic and gastronomical aspirations of people, but a contribution to terrorism and it will color my memories and influence my future decisions as I'm sure it will have an effect on those of all of us. Let's just keep this focused on restaurants and food, not judge the chefs until all the news is in, and use this thread to keep up on the news.

[edsel]

As Victor says, it remains for it to be seen if this is true, but if it is, it will mean that my visits were not necessarily the contribution to the peaceful cultural, economic and gastronomical aspirations of people, but a contribution to terrorism and it will color my memories and influence my future decisions as I'm sure it will have an effect on those of all of us. Let's just keep this focused on restaurants and food, not judge the chefs until all the news is in, and use this thread to keep up on the news.

←

Robert, to suggest that you have in any way "contributed" to terrorism is simply absurd. You have sought out and supported exemplary chefs wherever you might find them. I appreciate and support the eGullet policy of avoiding political derailing of our discussions. As far as I'm concerned, this is a matter of giving the chefs the benefit of the doubt, as you've implied, and also trying to place ourselves in their shoes. That's where I feel that the eGullet community should be vigilant in all of this ugly business.

I live four thousand miles from where this is happening, but I certainly care about it. It's four in the morning where Victor and Miguel live - let's all sleep on it.

[vserna]

I won't go any further than this in politicizing this thread, except to make this last remark, which I think is important:

The erudite search into the historic origins and explanations of any type of terrorism is a nice and even necessary exercise in understanding the phenomenon. But when a terrorist group is active in a democratic, parliamentary society which guarantees that any political ideal or ambition can be fully pursued and defended through the ballot box, these explanations can never be equated with any kind of justification for terror.

In a democracy, aiding such a terrorist group cannot be, by any stretch of the imagination, morally acceptable. Much less so when the person who suffers extortion is as well protected by society, including most supporters of terrorism, as these chefs are.

Miguel says something that is entirely incorrect, sorry to say: "They are therefore easily seen, by extremists, as potential traitors to the Basque cause - or, at least, sell-outs." On the contrary. The pro-ETA media (yes, there are pro-ETA media in Spain - this is a country where free speech is very real, to the point of excess) have turned these great chefs into shining examples of Basque genius. And the fact that the chefs get large chunks of their income from non-Basque (or non-separatist) customers is something that ETA will never use as a reproach against anyone: heck, ETA does the same!

The question thus becomes even more painful: How many of these chefs, if they ever did pay ETA, did so with not much remorse but rather wilfully because, even if their bank accounts suffered a little, they were in general agreement with the extortionists? That's what really, in the end, if the facts are proven, would sadden me most. And I know at least one of them sympathizes with the thugs.

Edited October 17, 2004 by vserna (log)