Arzak, A Lunch

[docsconz]

A short respite from a cooking demonstration preceded our short journey to Arzak, the granddaddy of Michelin Three star restaurants in Spain. The restaurant achieved this greatness under the helm of Juan-Mari Arzak. Although the restaurant is currently under the direction of his daughter Elena, Juan-Mari’s presence remains strong in the restaurant.

The outside and indeed the inside of the restaurant is relatively unremarkable and unassuming for one of its caliber, although it is attractive and comfortable enough.

We were led to a large table on the second floor. Though it was the largest table that we could see, the space was actually slightly cramped with the servers unable to flow freely around it.

No sooner did we sit down than Elena Arzak came out to greet us

and invite us to tour their laborotorio, which we quickly agreed to. We passed through the wine cellar on the way there. The cellar was remarkable with perfect temperature control and impressive size. The lab was small, but fascinating.

They even have a small projection room in which they analyze photos of each dish for presentation purposes.

These photos are also used to make clear to the cooks and waitstaff as to what the dishes should look like as well as how they should be presented. They also have a room kept under optimal condition devoted to storing a veritable what's what of ingredients. Following are photos of Elena and myself in the room and some product details.

We returned to our seats for the onset of the real show including an initial visit from Juan-Mari Arzak himself who came to see if anyone in the group had any dietary restrictions or dislikes. We were easy.

Hors D’ouvres were laid out in front of us as a dizzying display of form and color.

Delights included tomato and strawberry gazpacho that tasted of the essence of Spain with the strawberries providing a subtle surprise note to the impeccable tomato gazpacho;

salty melon-marinated sardine with sweet melon;

taste-bud popping figs and bacon on sticks;

“piquillos” with pineapple

and an onion tart.

The wine served with these and the next course was the same verdejo that we had at Abac, the Jose’ Pariente from Rueda.

The first course on the full menu was an extraordinary mango-layer stuffed with terrine of foie-gras and tomato and served with a bitter light green lettuce. The combination was truly synergistic.

“An Egg Graffitti”, that consisted of an egg cooked sous-vide and looking like a squid and served with a squid ink containing sauce, crispy rice and dried parsley powder. This was a visual and gustatory tour de force. The photos show a progression of presentation.

Local tuna with blackened tuna skin (unbelievable and slightly sweet) and red peppercorns also delighted the eyes as well as the palate.

Interestingly, one of our party did not finish this dish. Juan-Mari Arzak personally came out to see if there was a problem with the dish. Therer wasn't. she was just pacing herself for what was shaping up to be a meal of immense proportions in so many ways.

Squid “stars” with an ink “Air” followed. This dish also had caramelized onions.

The main course was a choice “Pigeon over a flowers vinaigrette” or “Roast lamb covered with a coffee veil”. My wife ordered the lamb while I had the pigeon. The latter came woth pineapple, a cinnamon stick and a laurel leaf all of which one was instructed to suck on prior to eating the pigeon. It also came with potato covered with leak ash. While the dish was delicious I didn’t really get the bit about sucking on the flavors. It made no apparent difference to me. Once again, the photos indicate the service progression of the dish as well as the meat itself, which I believe was actually cooked slightly more than we asked for because we were American.

The lamb was beautifully presented with a light, diaphanous veil around it. This veil dissipated when a broth was poured over it – a spectacular dish and the better of the two.

Wine was a proprietary wine labeled for Arzak and from the Rioja. The vintage was 1999. It was a deep red, rich tempranillo - a good match and eminently drinkable. I wish I knew more about it.

Desserts were the best of the tour, with each one magically presented and surreally delicious. These included the humbly named but regally tasting “ugly chocolate omelet,

chocolate hamburger,

mystical passion fruit soup and orange loaf,

black olives and apple tart,

glorious baked fruits with strawberry bubbles

and a fabulous dessert that somehow was not listed on the printed menus that were provided to us at the end of the meal. Once again a progression:

A delightful array of mignardises including chocolate and white chocolate lollipops finished the meal.

Both Juan Mari and Elena were gracious enough to sign our menus (only presented to us at the end of the meal) and pose for photos with us.

During the course of our meal Elena told us that she is expecting her first child!

Although some of the dishes had been presented before, according to Elena a number of them were premiered for us.

The meal was generally considered by the group as the greatest of the trip. My feeling is that while the food certainly was the greatest, the overall experience of the meal and restaurant was still in fact flawed in minor ways. The space was somewhat cramped for a three-star and the décor, while pleasant and comfortable was nothing particularly special. In addition, the service, while pleasant, was less than three-star caliber as my water and wine glasses would remain low or empty for extended periods without being filled. In addition the waitstaff (very smartly dressed in black and gray dresses) were not intimately familiar with the details of the dishes including some of the older ones. In the grand scheme these were trifling details. The food was great enough in its own right to warrant three-stars and a permanent place in my memory.

[bloviatrix]

Fantastic photos!! I'm drooling.

[Bux]

The meal was generally considered by the group as the greatest of the trip. My feeling is that while the food certainly was the greatest, the overall experience of the meal and restaurant was still in fact flawed in minor ways. The space was somewhat cramped for a three-star and the décor, while pleasant and comfortable was nothing particularly special. In addition, the service, while pleasant, was less than three-star caliber as my water and wine glasses would remain low or empty for extended periods without being filled. In addition the waitstaff (very smartly dressed in black and gray dresses) were not intimately familiar with the details of the dishes including some of the older ones. In the grand scheme these were trifling details. The food was great enough in its own right to warrant three-stars and a permanent place in my memory.

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From my notes of a year ago: service ... we found it less personal and more disinterested. [than at our first visit years ago] Wine service was even less swift than at Mugaritz. The red wine was easy to reach and consequently wasn't a problem, [we served ourselves] but the white in the bucket was. We noticed another table reaching over to a side board for their wine. Juan Mari waved from a seat in the lounge as we left. It was all so different seven years ago when the attention to our order was very personal and Juan Mari chatted with us on the way out.

... service at Arzak was even faster than at Mugaritz and there's barely time to reflect on a dish before the next one arrives. We found ourselves consciously eating very slowly and stopped a couple of times when glasses were empty until we learned to pour our own wine. There's a mixed signal here. If the diner is expected to serve his own wine, and I have no objection to this practice--although clearly it's a service expected at a three star restaurant--the wine should be accessible to the diner.

The food itself was very good, although we felt that Martin and Mugaritz had the clear edge in both holding our interst and providing a less interrupted level of "wow." Elena may not yet have hit her stride. The restaurant itselt was very dowdy when we were first there and a little less so since it was redecorated.

In terms of doneness, I find rosé is the word that gets birds, lamb and liver cooked to my taste in France. I wonder if, and why, European chefs over cook meat for Americans. I don't find that we like our meat more well done than the French or Spaniards. In fact, I find we, as a country of diners, seem to have a very varied taste that often goes to extremes. It may be that traveling gastronomes tend least to order red meat and steaks, while the more timid American traveler with access to the great restaurants of Europe may be the ones ordering steak and ordering it well done. That could explain a misconception, but it shouldn't explain why a group of dedicated gourmets traveling under the auspices of the Cullinary Institute of America with Spanish speaking guides doesn't get meat done as the chef thinks best or as they want it. I've been flat out told by one expert French chef that I like my meat too rare and that the taste is brought out when it's cooked a bit more. I've never squared that with his love of steak tatare.

[Revallo]

Thank you John. Your photos are absolutly incredible, breathtaking in fact. A couple questions, what was the "diaphanous veil" made of? And what kind of camera were you using at the time?

[docsconz]

From my notes of a year ago: service ... we found it less personal and more disinterested. [than at our first visit years ago] Wine service was even less swift than at Mugaritz. The red wine was easy to reach and consequently wasn't a problem, [we served ourselves] but the white in the bucket was. We noticed another table reaching over to a side board for their wine. Juan Mari waved from a seat in the lounge as we left. It was all so different seven years ago when the attention to our order was very personal and Juan Mari chatted with us on the way out.

... service at Arzak was even faster than at Mugaritz and there's barely time to reflect on a dish before the next one arrives. We found ourselves consciously eating very slowly and stopped a couple of times when glasses were empty until we learned to pour our own wine. There's a mixed signal here. If the diner is expected to serve his own wine, and I have no objection to this practice--although clearly it's a service expected at a three star restaurant--the wine should be accessible to the diner.

The food itself was very good, although we felt that Martin and Mugaritz had the clear edge in both holding our interst and providing a less interrupted level of "wow." Elena may not yet have hit her stride.  The restaurant itselt was very dowdy when we were first there and a little less so since it was redecorated.

In terms of doneness, I find rosé is the word that gets birds, lamb and liver cooked to my taste in France. I wonder if, and why, European chefs over cook meat for Americans. I don't find that we like our meat more well done than the French or Spaniards. In fact, I find we, as a country of diners, seem to have a very varied taste that often goes to extremes. It may be that traveling gastronomes tend least to order red meat and steaks, while the more timid American traveler with access to the great restaurants of Europe may be the ones ordering steak and ordering it well done. That could explain a misconception, but it shouldn't explain why a group of dedicated gourmets traveling under the auspices of the Cullinary Institute of America with Spanish speaking guides doesn't get meat done as the chef thinks best or as they want it. I've been flat out told by one expert French chef that I like my meat too rare and that the taste is brought out when it's cooked a bit more. I've never squared that with his love of steak tatare.

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Unfortunately, I didn't get to compare Arzak with Martin and Mugaritz. Those will have to wait for another visit along with Akelare. I did get to compare it with Can Fabes, though. That report will be coming up soon. Both meals werre fabulous in terms of flavor. Arzak had the edge in terms of presentation and personal warmth, while Can Fabes had the more incredible space and service. It is too difficult to distinguish the taste dimensions of the various dishes between the restaurants. Another contender in all three counts was carme Ruscalleda's Sant Pau. Morre to come on that and others as well.

The funny thing about the meat doneness was that they asked how I would like it. My pigeon wasn't really overcooked, I just expected it to be slightly less cooked than it was. I would have preferred that they served it as they felt was best for the preparation. Then again, maybe they did.

[jogoode]

The main course was a choice “Pigeon over a flowers vinaigrette” or “Roast lamb covered with a coffee veil”. My wife ordered the lamb while I had the pigeon. The latter came woth pineapple, a cinnamon stick and a laurel leaf all of which one was instructed to suck on prior to eating the pigeon. It also came with potato covered with leak ash. While the dish was delicious I didn’t really get the bit about sucking on the flavors. It made no apparent difference to me. Once again, the photos indicate the service progression of the dish as well as the meat itself, which I believe was actually cooked slightly more than we asked for because we were American.

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I don't know, doc. When I make potato with leak ash it turns out much prettier than Elena's version.

Seriously, though...Thank you so much for these photos. What a vacation you had!

[docsconz]

Thank you John.  Your photos are absolutly incredible, breathtaking in fact.  A couple questions, what was the "diaphanous veil" made of?  And what kind of camera were you using at the time?

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Thanks for the compliments.

I believe the veil was actually dehydrated coffee. They have a dehydrator in the lab that they use extensively.

As far as the camera, I used a Canon G2 on automatic without a flash and in Macro mode for the close-ups. Unfortunately, the lighting was often a problem and is reflected in some relatively washed out colors in the photos. When they took us up to the lab and showed us the projection room, I asked if they had photos for the dishes we would be having, hoping that I would be able to use them. Elena replied that most were so new that they didn't have any yet. The lamb, I believe is an exception. other dishes maybe as well.

[JosephB]

As far as the camera, I used a Canon G2 on automatic without a flash and in Macro mode for the close-ups. Unfortunately, the lighting was often a problem and is reflected in some relatively washed out colors in the photos.

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Oh, I thought you were going for that effect. Great stuff. Welcome home.

[tan319]

Woderful report and photos, doc!

I always enjoy your photo reports because you can really see how much you and your people enjoy yourselve's.

The food looks and sounds amazing.

I remember reading in 'A Cooks Tour' about how beautiful Elena Arzak is but your pic really backs it up.

You know what kills me?

In '96, I was working with a French band, recording an album near Dax (Leon) in France, and the singer kept saying "Ted, we have to take a few days and go to San Sebestian", which was only 70 k away or so.

I, like a fool, said nooooooooo, I have to stay and finish this thing (I was producing).

Thanks again, great stuff.

[little ms foodie]

John thanks for posting your pictures! My husband and I had lunch at Arzak in July and also took photos of each course but I haven't posted them. I also had the coffee veiled lamb....yum!!! But most of your dishes were different which is what I expect of a great restaurant.

We had fabulous service, the gentleman who waited on us - I forget his name- was just wonderful. And we left with a signed menu which I thought was very nice.

Thanks for bringing back great memories!!!

[malcolmjolley]

Wow. Yum. I'm jealous!

[ariggsby]

I believe the veil was actually dehydrated coffee. They have a dehydrator in the lab that they use extensively.

I believe it's cafe (con leche?) cooked down between Silpats.

Andrew

[albiston]

John,

Thanks for the fantastic report and great photos. Arzak was one of the first great chefs that caught my attention years ago but I still haven't managed to visit the Basque County. Now I have one reason more to try and go there.

BTW you might like to know that while I was looking at this thread my wife walked by and asked who the good looking guy in the photos was. Should I be jealous ?

[tanabutler]

Should I be jealous ?

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Yes.

[docsconz]

[GordonCooks]

Great stuff Doc, thanks for taking the time to share this great meal with us,

[tanabutler]

Hey, where'd you find that little blushy thing? I haven't seen that before!

(You're so cute when you blush, you little whippersnapper*.)

*Doc's four days younger than me.

[docsconz]

All you have to do is click "Show all" under the clickable smilies.

[tony h]

How can you say the service was less than you'd expect from a 3 star - they showed you around, treated you perfectly & were incredibly generous with their time? So your glass was a bit empty – you do have arms don’t you? The thing I loved about this place was that there was zero stuffiness.

Anyway – the lamb with coffee brought back memories – that was such a good dish. I also did the lab tour - loved it.

A big thanks for the photos.

Edited October 15, 2004 by blind lemon higgins (log)

[docsconz]

How can you say the service was less than you'd expect from a 3 star - they showed you around, treated you perfectly & were incredibly generous with their time?   So  your glass was a bit empty – you do have arms don’t you?  The thing I loved about this place was that there was zero stuffiness. 

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I'm not saying I didn't love the place, the meal and the people, and they did treat our group royally. Elena Arzak herself showed us around. She couldn't have been more gracious and charming and fortunately she wasn't the one doing the service. She had better things to attend to. However, the table service was less than I've experienced in comparable restaurants.

It was good, but in most of the better restaurants I've been to, the service anticipates ones needs and responds to them seemlessly and are proud to do so. I do have arms and had I been able to reach the wine or the water I would have been happy to serve myself, but then again I wouldn't want to appear to be showing up the waitstaff in a three star restaurant either. It was simply an observation and criticism that as good as the place was and it was great it still had imperfections.

I really don't mean to be ungrateful, but I don't need to be fawning either. Would I return with the same flaws as I described? Absolutely in a heartbeat. In the grand scheme of things the service criticism was a minor point, but I still feel the critique is valid.

You are correct about the lack of stuffiness. That is a wonderful thing and contributes greatly to the soul of the restaurant.

Since your comment made me focus more on what was less than perfect about the experience, I must add something else that I had actually forgotten. Allowing for cultural differences and the fact that smoking is much more widely accepted and practiced in Europe, the smoking there was the most bothersome I've ever encountered in a high end restaurant in Europe or elsewhere. I must attribute that to the poor ventilation as cigarette and cigar smoke drifted over from various parts of the room on a nearly constant basis. I was able to tolerate it and others may not find that to be a problem or an issue, but in a perfect world (or restaurant) those who wanted to smoke could do so without inconveniencing those who prefer to not be around it. Once agin, though, my overall experience remained fabulous despite my perception of imperfections.

Edited October 15, 2004 by docsconz (log)

[woodburner]

Great in-depth review Doc.

Sounds like a great trip, and thanks for sharing.

woodburner

[little ms foodie]

I hope this is just adding to the post and not taking away, I thought I'd throw in some photos from my lunch at Arzak in July. These are just a few things that were a bit different:

amuse bouche of pinapple & pimento, cold potato leek soup, fish mousse in fried plantain

soft egg w/ chorizo paste

squid w/ foam and black ink

cheese plate- one creamy, smooth piped onto plate, manchego, chalky feta, aged manchego, blue w/ pureed apple in it (I had already taken a bite - oops!)

desserts: ravioli; a tuber from vallencia, mango and fruit bread accented w/ chocolate and vanilla sorbets; pineapple w/chocolate & current sorbets; molten chocolate cake

us blurry from wine taking a self portrait! haha!

Arzak espresso cup

doc, if you want me to move these to another post just let me know!

Edited October 15, 2004 by little ms foodie (log)

[docsconz]

The photos are great! Thanks for adding them. It is particularly interesting to see the similarities and the differences. The squid is a prime example. The dishes ar very similar but clearly not the same.

I love the photo in the mirror. You were obviously enjoying yourselves and your wonderful enthusiasm shows.

Please do not hesitate to add any more photos to this or other topics.

[tanabutler]

us blurry from wine taking a self portrait! haha!

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Let me let you in on my little secret. Use the wine glass for a tripod: don't trust your unsteady hand (though the blur is charming). This is what I did last year at Amma, and the very creative results got published in a magazine. I enjoy the zany angles from using stationery objects as tripods.

(Repeat: the blur is charming. I am not criticizing, just giving information for the future.)