What's a Four-Star Restaurant?

[oakapple]

Ms. Sheraton, what are the criteria for awarding four stars, and have those criteria changed over time? For instance, it was pointed out recently that Peter Luger was once four stars, which is pretty hard to imagine by current standards. That's just an example — there are, of course, others. Another surprising example is Le Veau d'Or, which was once four stars and is now unrated.

Also, to your knowledge, are there actual criteria for the other star levels (one, two, and three)? Or is it just the critic's impressionistic judgment?

[Mimi Sheraton]

A four-star restaurant is what it is to whichever publication and critic are rating it. Some use no stars at all..maybe numbers like Zagat, or maybe nothing. What constitutes four stars for one critic may not to another. I am against standardized standards throughout the field becasue that fosters orthodoxy which I loathe. As soon as you make a rule - like, say, a four star must have tablecloths or a dress code - you come against something marvelous that does not have either and it is worth 4. All I can tell you is that for me, I know a 4 star restaurant when I have eaten in one and I have very few fixed requirements... broadly what those are is fantastically good food, a pleasant and appropriate setting (not necessarily luxe). efficient, thoughtful and polite service, and where it fits a good wine list and beverage service.

[Pan]

Thanks. Great question, great answer. Followup question, if you'd like to take it on: What restaurants in New York today would you consider 4-star restaurants?

[Mimi Sheraton]

Here's the problem....they all know me now so it is very hard to evaluate service and, for that matter, even food...let me think about it and see if I can come up with an answer before signing off tomorrow, Sunday.