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Service In The Capital


HOOLIGAN

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With two big reviews out this week of big time, first tier, best the city has to offer restaurants it's time to talk service. Both Tom's review of Le Paradou And Todd's of Galileo were highly critical (and rightfully so) of the level of service given at what should be benchmark establishments.

Why does service in this city blow Manatee? I can think of only a handful of individuals who day in day out makes the grade. But not one restaurant in this town can play at the level elsewhere in the States and abroad. The Inn at Little Washington has amazing service but I wouldn't lump them into DC proper. And the gentlemen coming from the Inn to open Inde Bleu I'm sure have skills but that endevour has clusterfuck written all over their suspended cresent-shaped sofas.

Prove me otherwise.

Jarad

Jarad C. Slipp, One third of ???

He was a sweet and tender hooligan and he swore that he'd never, never do it again. And of course he won't (not until the next time.) -Stephen Patrick Morrissey

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This is kind of the Zen question of the Washington DC food scene. There are certainly quite a few establishments where it would be hard to come up with ways to improve service, many of which receive favorable attention in this forum, but the number of high-end restaurants in this town where the level of service is inversely related to the prices on the menu seems abnormally high. Just returned from New York and sampled a few eateries where the service just excelled -- as well as the food. Maybe its the way wait staff are treated by those who own/run the restaurant. Maybe its because at a place where customers are going to be leaving a minimum 15% on a $100/per person tab, servers feel that they don't have to go out of their way to make a day's pay, and the managment doesn't care because, as they say, "The customer is always here."

Edited by FunJohnny (log)

Oh, J[esus]. You may be omnipotent, but you are SO naive!

- From the South Park Mexican Starring Frog from South Sri Lanka episode

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Both Tom's review of Le Paradou And Todd's of Galileo were highly critical (and rightfully so) of the level of service given at what should be benchmark establishments.

Based on those two reviews and until I hear otherwise from enough people, these establishments are off my list -- and I don't care how f***ing ethereal the food is! The best product should come with great (if not the best) service... It's as simple as that! No excuses! It's up to the owners & management to inspire their staff and teach them good service.

There exist a good number of other places with ass-kicking service (even though some might argue that the food is not on the same level as Galileo and Le Paradou -- who cares!) where I would rather shit out my hard earned dollar. Examples: Nectar (of course!), Palena, 1789 Restaurant, Rays the Steaks, and even the carry out sandwich place by my office -- Where my business is appreciated!!!

Edited by Minister of Drink (log)

"Whenever someone asks me if I want water with my Scotch, I say, 'I'm thirsty, not dirty' ". Joe E. Lewis

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My uneducated theory would be since DC is such a transient town with a lot of young people staying for a couple years then moving, attending grad schools, doing the political thing etc. that alot of restaurants hire servers that don't have a lot of experience and are looking for some extra cash while at school or working poor paying politico jobs.

Perhaps someone in the Biz can comment on whether or not there is a core group of "professional" servers where restaurant work is there primary job in Washington DC. It seems to be me places like NYC and I would imagine San Fran and other major food cities you have a core group of professional waitstaff and therefore the talent pool is higher and more trained.

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what about Maestro? Those dudes are really, really high touch.

I forgot to mention Maestro as a place to go. I've heard nothing but great things in terms of service and food from the people in EG and outside of cyberspace. However, the experience will give your wallet a beast-raping... But it sounds totally worth it.

"Whenever someone asks me if I want water with my Scotch, I say, 'I'm thirsty, not dirty' ". Joe E. Lewis

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I think that to some degree, very good service can be something that can be taught and learned, great service is something that is more innate.

And I'm not talking about the lower level employees, but the people in charge, say from the maitre d' or other front of house management on up. Give me a million monkeys and a million typewriters and I'll find one that can be trained to provide perfect service.

So the question becomes more specific - Why do DC restaurant owners/managers not have GREAT service skills in the same proportion as found elsewhere?

2 interrelated factors come to mind - concentration and maturity. Compared to a NY or San Fran, there is not nearly the number of great service places that have been around for long enough to create the necessary training ground for those in charge now to develop those skills. Think of a story like Sirio Maccioni and Le Cirque. Could that happen in DC?

Just my 2 cents.

Have a great weekend all.

I'm off to teach a certain legume how to make chocolate chip cookies. :smile:

If someone writes a book about restaurants and nobody reads it, will it produce a 10 page thread?

Joe W

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Other than from the food, it's plating, and ambiance, soul radiates from servers and front of the house staff that has more personality than a special agent on duty. Robotic, pretentious, hovering service lacks soul and chips away at class.

It can ruin an otherwise great meal, and make you feel mocked, and like a big fat sucker for letting yourself or someone else spend so much damn money. We want professional human beings with warmth and charm...

Thank you Palena, thank you Nectar, thanks Restaurant Eve, Ray's the Steaks, Guijilo, BDC, Pesce, Equinox, Layalina, little tiny nooks and crannies in strip malls and far from metro stops... thanks Firefly, and little man who used to deliver my Chinese food, thanks Tom Power at Corduroy, and the friendly people a Straits of Malaya, cheese dudes who care. Fine, and Maestro (even though I've never been there).

(This was inspired by Margaret Wise Brown's Good Night Moon:

Good Night Moon is the story of a bunny who is being put to sleep by an old woman. Comfort, peace.)

...

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Having been, myself, a waiter, Captain, Maitre d', restaurant owner and sommelier, my question is this:

What do all of you conisder great service??

Is it crumbing the table 16 times during a meal? How many places even bother to crumb the table? My fondest remembrance of warm service was from 1980 at the Sheraton Carleton Hotel. At the time, I was the Maitre d' at the Hay Adams Hotel. I would cruise into the Carleton at 10AM. As I walked in the door, Patty, my regular waitress, would already be pouring the coffee at my table. The other waitress (dang, I can't remember her name!) would be in the kitchen ordering my special omelette. Both women had worked at the hotel since the 50's. After one visit they knew which jam I liked, my favorite newspaper, when I wanted the check, hey! this was breakfast! Both women were in their 70's at the time. The finest service that I have encountered recently was in Paris at the Hotel Le Bristol. Note perfect service from beginning to end. But are we talking about fine dining establishments or service in general? I get great service at my local 7-11, too.

Mark

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Good service comes from one having a predisposition to serve. The fact of the matter is that most people in the industry(specifically DC) are getting through college or supplementing their income while they make their bones in their desired career(does anybody say "when I grow up, I want to be a waiter."). The majority of servershere dont really care about aesthetics or comfort, they just want their 20% and to get the hell out.

Ive only lived here a year and half (as a professional server) and I find the restaurant scene lacking service wise. It just seems a little too hodgepodgy, Ive seen polished veterans stacked next to stoned college kids. Ive paid a hundred dollars a head to find that sugar caddie was empty and that I didnt have fork to eat the wrong entree that was hastily placed in front of me. And to be honest Im a little fed up with this myself, I cant stand the idea of restaurants training me in steps of service when the waiter next to me is asking about phoeee grass. I dont really know if its always been this way, but its unfortunate that this trend exists. With the exception of one restaurant in this city, I genuinely believe there is little or no screening process that happens regarding waiters. And without that you invite the meatheads and alienate the good ones.

Justin Ulysses Guthrie

Bar Manager @ Central Michel Richard, Washington D.C.

My posts/statements do not reflect the opinion of my employers Michel Richard & Brian Zipin.

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I personally think being passionate about waiting tables or doing anything in life is more important than experience. If I was a restaurant owner I would hire for sincerity and passion. you can teach someone technical skills but its so hard to teach people skills.

during a meal at the restaurant if my needs are there before raising my hand to call the server , if all my questions are answered correctly about the menu and the wine , if they are being flexible on the menu for my restrictions , if they made a mistake but that is handled well by caring waitstaff or managers , if they recognize me on my second time at the restaurant and say` its good to see you again` , if they are there for me and I am enjoying that very much , I would call that `The Service`.

we are human beings , anyone can forget to bring a spoon or fork on time , or a champagne glass. some people consider that an unacceptable mistake . I think this is very important but I can forgive that . what I can not forgive is if they bring that spoon on a checkbook !!! instead of a liner plate. ( that happened to me at Gerard`s place)

I`m enjoying waiting tables , I`m enjoying to see those people very happy , I`m enjoying when people want to shake my hand when they are leaving.

call me an amateur , rookie or a professional , I`ll keep making these people happy.

Corduroy

General Manager

1122 Ninth Street, NW

Washington DC 20001

www.corduroydc.com

202 589 0699

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At high-end restaurants, there is a level in invisibility that I find takes service from good to great. A way of anticipating your needs and finding the right time and the the right place to slip in and take care of it. Examples in my mind include the way my champagne glass never emptied at Galileo that time, but I never quite realized when it was being refilled. The once-in-my-lifetime meal at Taillevent when the staff noticed my wife and I both looking at the wine vintage card on the table and immediately I had my own.

At lower-end restaurants, I can get by so long as the staff doesn't commit the cardinal sin -- screwing up the timing, so that my entree comes out immediately after my appetizer, so that I am faced with taking it all at once, or sending it back to have it fossilized under the heat lamp. Made me finally stop going to the Cafe Deluxe, because it became the rule, not the exception.

Save Pale Male <--- GO HERE!
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I'd like to echo fero style in the need for passion. The passion for the food, for the restaurant. Timing, proper service technique, what ingedients are involved in the dish, what wine to serve in part can be taught. But the person that has passion will elevate good teaching into excellent service.

I think through the chats that we have had on this board we have seen passion, be it Todd Kliman and his reviews, Gillian at Colorado Kitchen, Tom at Corduroy, Mike at Ray's, even Derek at Palena/Firefly (who we know has passion for good drinks!). Their enthusiasm is what elevates their restaurants from good to great (or in Todd's case reviews). I think it's just one of those needed intangibles.

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