Exeter and area update

[wgallois]

I've managed to lose a stack of notes on places we've eaten in over the past few months, but here are some sketchy memories of the good and the bad around Exeter at the moment:

Barton Cross, Stoke Canon, near Exeter: We had always steered clear of this place for some reason, but will definitely be going back. The restaurant is part of a small, very cute, hotel with lovely Devon views. The food is generally French, making use of lots of good local ingredients, and for c.£28 (the price for three courses) you will get seriously stuffed, both in terms of volume and in terms of the richness of the dishes. This is in no way intended as a criticism, since having to lie prone for a couple of hours after a meal can reflect very well on a restaurant... Very good use of cheeses, lovely home-cured olives, excellent banana bread-and-butter pudding, and really good service.

22 Mill Street, Chagford: There is already a thread on this place, but good to report that it is still on form. Really precise and satisfying cooking.

The Horn of Plenty, Gulworthy, near Tavistock: we went for a 'cheap' dinner, bed and breakfast deal in the winter. It was all very pleasant and country-housey, but I can't remember a thing we ate...

Sun Dogs, Fore Street, Exeter: A really good addition to the local scene, since I generally think that 'mid-range' restaurants are a total waste of time. This is not. The cooking is very solid, generally Mediterranean, and there were lots of really careful details throughout the meal that left you feeling very positive about the place.

The Nobody Inn, Doddiscombsleigh: much-mentioned, but I'm afraid to say that I think the food has gone downhill. The setting, cheeses, wines and whiskies are still fantastic, but a lot of the food is not quite tasty enough. The problem seems to be the minimalist/hearty plating style they are going in for, which is not a combination that works particularly well.

The Drewe Arms, as recommened by Marco. Excellent for fish and all-in-all a very good tip, especially as its so close to the M5.

The Duke of York, Iddesleigh: Monster portions of very tasty pub food in this very attractive pub, situated about ten miles north of Okehampton. There is a small restaurant section where it is possible to book tables. Very busy.

Otterton Mill: best white bread around, and decent salads and ploughman's for lunch.

The Devonshire Dumpling, north of Crediton: very good puddings, so-so mains.

Sharpham vineyard: super vineyard in the South Hams. They have a very good signposted walk around the estate which finishes with wine and cheese tastings. Mmm, Sharpham Rustic.

[slacker]

I've managed to lose a stack of notes on places we've eaten in over the past few months, but here are some sketchy memories of the good and the bad around Exeter at the moment:

Barton Cross, Stoke Canon, near Exeter: We had always steered clear of this place for some reason, but will definitely be going back. The restaurant is part of a small, very cute, hotel with lovely Devon views. The food is generally French, making use of lots of good local ingredients, and for c.£28 (the price for three courses) you will get seriously stuffed, both in terms of volume and in terms of the richness of the dishes. This is in no way intended as a criticism, since having to lie prone for a couple of hours after a meal can reflect very well on a restaurant... Very good use of cheeses, lovely home-cured olives, excellent banana bread-and-butter pudding, and really good service.

22 Mill Street, Chagford: There is already a thread on this place, but good to report that it is still on form. Really precise and satisfying cooking.

The Horn of Plenty, Gulworthy, near Tavistock: we went for a 'cheap' dinner, bed and breakfast deal in the winter. It was all very pleasant and country-housey, but I can't remember a thing we ate...

Sun Dogs, Fore Street, Exeter: A really good addition to the local scene, since I generally think that 'mid-range' restaurants are a total waste of time. This is not. The cooking is very solid, generally Mediterranean, and there were lots of really careful details throughout the meal that left you feeling very positive about the place.

The Nobody Inn, Doddiscombsleigh: much-mentioned, but I'm afraid to say that I think the food has gone downhill. The setting, cheeses, wines and whiskies are still fantastic, but a lot of the food is not quite tasty enough. The problem seems to be the minimalist/hearty plating style they are going in for, which is not a combination that works particularly well.

The Drewe Arms, as recommened by Marco. Excellent for fish and all-in-all a very good tip, especially as its so close to the M5.

The Duke of York, Iddesleigh: Monster portions of very tasty pub food in this very attractive pub, situated about ten miles north of Okehampton. There is a small restaurant section where it is possible to book tables. Very busy.

Otterton Mill: best white bread around, and decent salads and ploughman's for lunch.

The Devonshire Dumpling, north of Crediton: very good puddings, so-so mains.

Sharpham vineyard: super vineyard in the South Hams. They have a very good signposted walk around the estate which finishes with wine and cheese tastings. Mmm, Sharpham Rustic.

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Definately agree about Nobody. I'm still up for a cheesey day there some time. Perhaps a less ambitious South West roundup? It would be good to have a chinwag - if we can stop fighting over the last piece of Epoisses (sp?) for a second.

Thanks wgallois for the update.

Edited October 1, 2004 by slacker (log)

[Marco_Polo]

Hi wgallois,

Thanks for the great update on Exeter and surrounds. Barton Cross has been around for nearly 30 years, and it's almost that long since we were last there. Clearly time for a revisit! Sun Dogs is a new one on me, will definitely try it soon.

In fact we were working in Exeter yesterday and had time for just a quick lunch. We went to a place on North Street called The Conservatory and it was pretty good. Just a quickie 2-course lunch for £8.95, but I enjoyed a really rich shellfish bisque followed by lambs liver and onions, while K had an interesting chicken and walnut salad and a plate of pasta with a nice fresh tomato sauce. Washed down with some interesting Portuguese wines by the glass. Worth a try, especially for the bargain lunch.

(Speaking of bargain lunches, the Times Dine with Wine promotion is currently on again, and around here both Michael Caines at the Royal Clarence as well as The Galley, Topsham, are taking part again - 2-course lunch with a glass of Bordeaux wine for a tenner.)

Certainly agree about the Sharpham estate: excellent farmhouse cheeses, notably the ultra-rich rind-ripened brie types made from Jersey milk. I like their wines, too. Best cheese shop around now is Country Cheese on Fore Street, Topsham. Almost exclusively West Country, probably 50-60 different cheeses (including the full Sharpham range), all kept in immaculate condition. The breads, available two or three times a week, are good too.

Have you yet tried fish & chips from The Fish Shed at Dart's Farm? David Kerley (formerly of The Galley) is producing some really good stuff here, any selection of fish and shellfish from his wet fish counter, batter fried (batter made with local Branscombe beer) or grilled. His batter fried diver's scallops are simply sensational, while sitting out with a bowl of mussels and chips is almost like being in, well, Topsham. There are picnic tables in the cornfield and we sometimes pop along for a takeaway to enjoy with our own wine.

Slacker, we could do worse than meet up here, and afterwards repair to the nearby Bridge Inn.

MP

[slacker]

You're on. I had Stein's F&C the other day. Monfish, Chis and peas. Very very good (esp. with Champagne that I just happened to have open.)

Also went out for lunch yesterday - to Middle Street Café, the most reasonable of Stein's sit-downs.

Very good salt and pepper prawns. Very good Stein's Champagne (5.25!!) (esp. when the first flat glass had been replaced without question), but a rather scrambled egg brulée in place of the crème that I'd ordered. Good muscat to accompany, though, and I must confess that I ate it all anyway. The recipe was good!

My host had Pho with Prawns, a glass of good Haut Poitou and coffee.

Good chunky bread, unsalted butter.

£33.60 inc. £3 tip.

If anyone's around in Padstow, I'd happily accompany them to Middle Street Café!

[wgallois]

Thanks for the tips Marco and Slacker.

I very much agree with you regarding Devon Country Cheeses, Marco. The amazing thing is that they actually have more Sharpham cheeses there than they do in the Sharpham farm shop. The owner was telling us that they make some cheeses exclusively for DCC, which goes down very well with restaurants which source their cheese from DCC.

Glad that you enjoyed the Conservatory. The lunch deal sounds good. I went a year or so ago for an evening promotion where mains were priced according to the time you arrived, or something like that. Lunch sounds a better bet.

Went to Sun Dogs again last night. The food was again good, simple and mainly Mediterranean. They only have about 20-25 covers and now, I think, only open in the evenings, so I wonder how they survive.

Another very good recent discovery is an amazing farm shop on the outskirts of Thorverton (turn left on Exeter-Tiverton road for Thorverton and then take the first left into a farmyard). There are no signs but plenty of customers! Lots of good local fruit and vegetables, 36 south-west cheeses and great South Devon Chilli farm chilli chocolate.

Have not yet tried the Fish Shed, though I've heard very good things about it. Your write-up makes me want to go there all the more, even though I don't eat fish...

How about the mooted south-west egullet gathering taking place there, or, as was originally suggested, the Nobody Inn?

[slacker]

I'm all for the fish shed. New ground!

[Marco_Polo]

I'm all for the fish shed. New ground!

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Would be delighted to meet, either at The Fish Shed or The Nobody or the Drewe Arms in Broadhembury.

Understand, The Fish Shed is just that, a wet fish shed selling a great array of fish and shellfish, all landed at nearby Exmouth, with an Aussie style fish & chips as an added bonus. You either select any fish from what is on offer, or from the fish & chips menu (there are also daily specials) and David Kerley (or his grill chef) will cook it for you - batter fried or grilled - with excellent chips, either to take away or to eat in the outdoor courtyard in good weather or at outdoor picnic tables set in the cornfield (no kidding).

Sea bass & chips, monkfish & chips, divers scallops and chips, plaice & chips, or even just good old cod & chips, I'm sure we all agree, must be eaten the precise moment they are produced and handed over to you, standing up if you must, while the fish is still finger-burningly, pipingly hot, straight from the fryer, splashed with malt vinegar, a shake of salt, and eaten with the fingers. So a possibility would be to meet at The Fish Shed, order and devour our fish & chips not in a leisurely fashion but, what shall we say, con allegro, order a second batch of different fish to be prepared while we're eating the first (perhaps try the grilled this time), devour again, wipe the grease and homemade tartar sauce from our chins, and then repair 400 yards or so down the road to relax and settle in for some more leisurely and extended conversation over a few pints of Branoc at the famous Bridge Inn.

How does that sound, and when? Anybody else care to join us?

Marc

[slacker]

That sounds fine. And when? God knows. Just pick a date when you can. I'm coming a little way, so don't fit in especially for me.

[Marco_Polo]

That sounds fine. And when? God knows. Just pick a date when you can. I'm coming a little way, so don't fit in especially for me.

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I'm easy (though Mon and Wed are generally not good for lunch). Slacker, are you coming to Exeter or up this way for any other reason sometime in the coming weeks? Wgallois, what are good days for you? If not for lunch, then early evening is always a possibility, retiring aftwards to The Bridge. Here's a good, friendly b & b if you don't fancy the trek back to Padstow.

[wgallois]

Some good dates for me are 12, 13, 20, 22 and 29 October, for lunch or early evening.

[slacker]

I'd like to do this, but sorry WG, all those dates are bad for me. I can't generally do Wed or Fri evenings and evenings are better than lunches.

And thanks for the B&B note. I tend to have a pint and drive, though. It's only an hour from Exeter really.

[Marco_Polo]

I'd like to do this, but sorry WG, all those dates are bad for me. I can't generally do Wed or Fri evenings and evenings are better than lunches.

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I'm fairly easy since it's just around the corner from me so I am happy to try and work in whenever you're able to head down this way (Mon evenings difficult for me).

Just an idea: I'm organising a wine dinner at Michael Caines at the Royal Clarence on Monday November 15 that you or WG (or anyone else down this way) might be interested in attending. The evening will centre around the wines of Cascina Fontana (Gavi, Dolcetto d'Alba, Nebbiolo, Barolo) with my good friends winemakers Mario and Luisa Fontana coming out for the event from their home in Castiglione Falleto. Head chef Simon Dow in consultation with Michael is putting together a stunning autumn menu (risotto, venison) to complement the wines. We'll be taking over the whole restaurant as it's a fund raising event for Ride for Life/FORCE in aid of the Force Cancer Support Centre Appeal. Tickets will cost £60 per head and it should be a great night of food, wine and friends. I'd be delighted if you (or anyone else) would care to join us. But places are going fast, so PM if you're interested.

Marc

[wgallois]

Some more Exeter area thoughts:

1. Puffing Billy, Exton: I guess that this used to be a pub, but it is now most definitely a restaurant. You know this from the prices...: from £14-£21 for mains, £7-8 for starters, and a much more reasonable £5 for all puddings. The cooking is strong and the menu clearly proud of its use of locally sourced produce. I had a main of Jerusalem artichoke, red onion and wild mushroom tartlet, which was very pleasingly rich and wintery. I shared two puddings: pistachio souffle with white chocolate vodka sorbet, and hazelnut praline parfait with candied fruits and blood orange jelly. Both were very good. I definitely enjoyed the food, but I don't think that I'll be back in a hurry because of the prices. I simply cannot understand why a relatively new restaurant can justify charging prices that would not look out of place in a starred Michelin outfit. Lunch looks much cheaper and a better proposition all round. www.thepuffingbilly.com

2. Barton Cross again: not nearly as much fun as the first time around. The service was awful in many different ways (an hour wait before getting food, long wait between starter and main, wrong cutlery on the table etc.). The food was mainly good, but it was completely let down by the lax service, on a very slow night.

3. Dart's Farm: I guess you know this place well Marco as it's just down the road from you. I had never been there but stopped in to buy some cheeses this afternoon.

There was a pretty good selection, though not as strong on local favourites as Devon Country Cheeses. What really amazed me about the place was its bourgeois fantastic feel, as though the giant farmer's market is the 21st century equivalent of the department store in the middle of the nineteenth century, delivering dreams as well as Burt's Chilli and Lemon hand-crafted crisps (tasty).

4. South Devon Chilli Farm: I am a huge fan of these people. Lots of their sauces are great (esp. the sweet Thai chilli sauce), the chilli chocolate is really fun, and recently they've been selling all sorts of fantastic fresh chillies at their Exeter farmer's market stall. I bought some Scotch Bonnets, habaneros and some lemon chillies. All great.

5. Old Fire House: One of the most appealing pubs in the centre of Exeter. Fantastically good value wines (from £5.50 a bottle I think), cheap and tasty food (£2.60 or so for a toasted cheese and tomato half-loaf), and an atmospheric, candle-lit upstairs room. It can be hugely busy towards the weekend, and so it should be.

Edited December 2, 2004 by wgallois (log)

[Marco_Polo]

Some more Exeter area thoughts:

Hi William,

Thanks for the great update on Exeter and surrounds. The Puffing Billy has been a restaurant for certainly a good few years now, though I think it is under new ownership. It's always, in my opinion, tended to price itself above its station (hah - it's in the old station house, I think?). But I've heard good recent reports and also that the wines are interesting and fairly priced.

As for Dart's Farm, it's truly a phenomenon. When parts of the rest of the country are succumbing to the lure of the supermarket, Dart's offers a real homegrown alternative - at a price. All those wonderful Taste of the West products are absolutely stunning, delicious, artisan, local. But they are also damned expensive! And much of what is on offer is what I'd call gift foods, jars, bars, packets of foods that you don't really eat. Gerald David, the butchers, however is truly sensational, both for really special, top end stuff, as well as equally for special offers such as top rib. And they are very accomodating: they will even now cut and prepare for me American shortribs, a cut that is hellishly difficult to find in this country. I've mentioned before the wet fish stall/fish and chips Fish Shed. Everything is straight off the boats at Exmouth. And the new deli counter is very good, too, though I agree, Country Cheeses in Topsham offers a better, almost wholly local range, always in perfect condition. We really are spoiled for choice here.

Funny you should mention the South Devon Chilli Farm. I was at the Exeter Farmer's market just today and stopped for a chat. I too went away with bags of their own dried and smoked chipotles, as well as those yellow Peruvian chilies that smell of lemon when fresh, but when dried (not smoked) have an intriguing aroma of bananas. I'm going to braise them this evening with some pork sausages I picked up from the Happy Hogs stall, serve with polenta.

Where is the Old Fire Station? I've never heard of it but it sounds good.

We must arrange our Exeter/Topsham get together one of these days. Slacker?

Marc

[wgallois]

Hi Marco,

Sorry, that should have read 'The Old Fire House', rather than 'The Old Fire Station' (have now edited my post). It's on New North Road, two minutes from Debenhams if one starts to walk towards the prison. I hope I haven't over-sold the place as I only have experience of the beer, wine and toasted sandwiches. The food menu is very limited but, like the wine, it is also exceptionally good value. It was also well known as Will Young's local when he was in Exeter.

Glad to hear that you're enjoying the South Devon Chilli Farm. I'll have to try their smoked chillies,

William

[wgallois]

Have recently enjoyed Imperial China in Exeter and La Petite Maison in Topsham.

The former is a very large, new restaurant on Cowick Street. It's sited on three floors of what I believe was an old station (my brother was very excited by the trains going right past the window), with a bar on the ground floor, a mezzanine overflow/private dining area and the main dining room at the top of the building. It's obviously made a name for itself very quickly as there were 55 people eating there when we left at nineish last Saturday. I know very little about Chinese food but I imagine it to be rather more authentic than most of its competitors. The menu is extensive, and the best dishes we tried were Chinese greens in a garlic sauce, vegetables in a Szechuan chilli sauce, noodles with bean sprouts, and banana fritters. Flavours were clean and drawn from the visible ingredients, rather than MSG or gloopy sauce. I'll definitely go back to work my way through the menu.

La Petite Maison was also good, though very different: small, quaint (I felt like I was in You've Got Mail or somesuch) and based on simple French dishes prepared with local ingredients. We had a goat's cheese souffle with pesto and salad, a mushroom galette with a wild mushroom sauce, Elmirst tarts with ratatouille, grapes and caramelised red onion, a vanilla creme brulee, and a chocolate tart with chocolate ice cream. Everything was well-prepared and served in a very friendly, relaxed way. I think my favourite dish was the tart and ice cream, for it's zen-like simplicity, while Becky especially enjoyed the souffle and its well-chosen accompaniments. The food is by no means spectacular, but it delivers very precisely and satisfyingly on its particular promise.

Edited January 7, 2005 by wgallois (log)

[slacker]

New Year, new interest in a Devon visit.

[Marco_Polo]

Have recently enjoyed Imperial China in Exeter and La Petite Maison in Topsham. . .

Thanks, William, this is very good news indeed. We've been waiting 25 years for an even half decent Chinese restaurant in Exeter or surrounds, and if Imperial China is only just mediocre (or rather better, as your report suggests) then I'll be very excited.

As for Petite Maison, it is a very good little restaurant indeed so I'm glad you liked it. Doug is a serious chef and he sources fresh and local ingredients and produce. Petite Maison is located about two minutes (or less) around the corner from where we live so you should have dropped in first for a glass of wine. Perhaps next time.

Meanwhile our proposed eG rendezvous at Michael Caines at the Royal Clarence (with David/Slacker?) will have to wait: the hotel and restaurant closed on Tuesday for the start of the long-awaited and extensive refurbishment. The Restaurant dining room itself will not be altered, but improvements are being made in the kitchens, and the Cafe Bar/Boutique is being completely redesigned. The hotel itself - all bedrooms as well as public areas - is also being completely redesigned/refurbished, too, with full completion set for the end of August.

However, the MC Restaurant should be back in business in about three weeks and the Well House Tavern remains open (though not for food, I would guess, until the main kitchen reopens).

Marc

[slacker]

Perhaps Imperial China then?

January is a quiet month (searches for 'broke' emoticon)

[Marco_Polo]

Perhaps Imperial China then?

January is a quiet month (searches for 'broke' emoticon)

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Can well understand that for those in the wine trade, January is the cruelest month (all the more reason to drown sorrows). Imperial China is a great idea (but what, William, is the wine list like?). A blow out lunch one day soon?

[slacker]

Perhaps Imperial China then?

January is a quiet month (searches for 'broke' emoticon)

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Can well understand that for those in the wine trade, January is the cruelest month (all the more reason to drown sorrows). Imperial China is a great idea (but what, William, is the wine list like?). A blow out lunch one day soon?

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So glad you have taken my comments seriously.

I'd prefer dinner, as my days are numbered as it were. I am only an hour (and a bit, officer) away, and have no problem with a moderately sober evening. I would like to meet you Egulleteers as well as look into the bottom of my glass.

We are more likely to get a good show for a modest feast, yes?

[slacker]

I am in the mood for date setting. Venue unsure I gather, but I am easy.

Diary at the ready....

[Marco_Polo]

Anyone else cheering for Exeter City tonight?

Some of you may be contemplating what to eat on Super Bowl Sunday. Over here we're considering what's on the menu tonight for the most remarkable football (soccer) match (or mismatch) in many many years: our local team minnows Exeter City versus mighty Manchester United in the FA Cup replay.

Go Grecians!

[wgallois]

Marco, you'll be glad to hear that the ironic/heartfelt chant 'Ciiideeerrrr, ciiiiiiiderrrrr' has now become the most popular chant at Exeter, and on the food-related chanting front I did also hear someone singing 'I'd rather have a pasty than a pie' at Old Trafford'.

[Alexia]

Marco, you'll be glad to hear that the ironic/heartfelt chant 'Ciiideeerrrr, ciiiiiiiderrrrr' has now become the most popular chant at Exeter, and on the food-related chanting front I did also hear someone singing 'I'd rather have a pasty than a pie' at Old Trafford'.

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As I read this I'm struggling to get over our tragic loss by sipping a cool glass of Green Valley 'Stillwood' a dry cider with a delicious woody tone. I spent yesterday at Dart's Farm tasting ciders with the producer, Chris Coles, as they bottled their latest batch beside us. What a find is Dart's, and only half an hour away from my house. The Fish Shed is superb. My griddled scallops with bacon were on the point of perfection and the lemon sole came close. We ate so much fish we could hardly leave the table. The chips were a bit disappointing as they buy them pre-chipped and you can tell from the texture, but they are working on finding a chipping machine and the fish is so damn good you forget to eat the chips anyway. A pint of wheat beer with a pasty at the Bridge Inn also helped me in this recuperation period.