Rome at Christmastime

[Carrot Top]

I am considering a trip to Rome during the week following Christmas, and am seeking information, advice, recommendations...of any sort that anyone would like to give!

My desire would be to spend the time exploring. It would be great to hear of any street fairs, entertainments, markets, and anything that comes to mind that is a natural and integral part of Roman life in all its variety.

I am not specifically looking for 'restaurant' recomendations (I'd rather wander around and hit some maybe bad and maybe good ones but all a surprise) unless there are any I need to be particularly warned to stay away from! (Is that possible in Rome?!)

Unusual sites or shops or foodmarkets would be great to hear about....please do not restrict any suggestions to the central area of the city for I am willing to travel around a bit.

What's 'new' in Rome? And what is so traditional that it is always done around Christmastime...so traditional that you might not even think of suggesting it?

Another question...Vatican City. Tell me, where does the Pope eat? Obviously it is all 'in-house'...does anyone know anything about that? And what about the lesser dignitaries? Is there a, uh...Papal Cafeteria of sorts? Would love to know....

Thanks for any suggestions!

Edited September 22, 2004 by Carrot Top (log)

[hathor]

I'm sure whatever you do you'll have a great time..but the week between Christmas and New Years is a sort of holiday...it's kind of like August when random places are closed, so be prepared for that.

Be prepared to eat until you burst on New Year's Eve (Capo d'Anno)!!!

[Carrot Top]

Yup, always better to travel the different direction than the crowd, I think....

[elephantstone]

Another question...Vatican City. Tell me, where does the Pope eat? Obviously it is all 'in-house'...does anyone know anything about that? And what about the lesser dignitaries? Is there a, uh...Papal Cafeteria of sorts?    Would love to know....

I stayed in Borgo Vittorio near the Vatican for a little while a couple years ago, and I had good success wandering around the area and looking for restaurants with a good number of priests/monks inside eating.

[divina]

I know there is a place called Eau Vive.. run by french nuns.. don't think the Pope eats there, but hear it is fun!

If you can. stay for the Befana festivities.. January 6th.. that was traditionally when Italian kids get their toys.. from the Befana( witch)

if you are bad you get coal in your stockings.. in Piazza NAvona you can get stocking filled with candy.. or Coal ( black sugar, looking like coal!)

and see the Befana!

[Carrot Top]

Thanks, all! Hmmm...I am sensing the flavors and colors just by reading this small bit....will post with more questions as I delve a bit into my own research...

[David Lerner]

We enjoyed the presepio on display in many churches. Fifteen years ago at least, there were several churches with presepio competitions with thirty or fifty different presepio on display. These are the usual creche (manger) scenes you see all over in Churches at Christmas, but far more originality and wide variety, done in many different styles, not the standard church supply store stuff.

[bronihk]

this may be a little off for this, board BUT my family and i are thinking of going to rome for christmas as well (i'm glad to hear good stuff so far) and are looking for fun/affordable places to stay that, as an added bonus, would have good-great food. granted you are never far from a good meal in rome so walking to eat is expected if not desired...i just find it nice to have the hotel as an option. rare as the case may be.

any thoughts would be much apprecited.

bhk

[albiston]

My desire would be to spend the time exploring. It would be great to hear of any street fairs, entertainments, markets, and anything that comes to mind that is a natural and integral part of Roman life in all its variety.

I am not specifically looking for 'restaurant' recomendations (I'd rather wander around and hit some maybe bad and maybe good ones but all a surprise) unless there are any I need to be particularly warned to stay away from! (Is that possible in Rome?!)

Unusual sites or shops or foodmarkets would be great to hear about....please do not restrict any suggestions to the central area of the city for I am willing to travel around a bit.

...

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Karen, since I promised to help on another thread here's my tips. Or at least the first part, I'll be adding more once I find the addresses of the last few places.

I'd definitely have a look at the Jewish Ghetto: a part of traditional Roman cuisine is based on Jewish traditions and there's quite a few Jewish restaurants (not necessairly all kosher) which serve decent dishes.

A great place for pizza al taglio (sheet pizza) is in the Ghetto (Zi Fenizia if I remember correctly). Another one which is much raccomended is Pizzarium in Via della Meloria,43. Pizza al Taglio is a great way to eat a cheap but tasty lunch. Also most bakers make a good Pizza Bianca, one of Rome's street foods, delicious alone but even better if stuffed with prosciutto or mortadella.

Ice cream might not be something one would normally eat at Christmastime but Rome has one of the best ice cream places I've tried, Gelateria San Crispino (via San Crispino, a bit outside the center) and one I'm dying to try given the raving comments I've heard from friends, Fatamorgana, (via lago di Lesina 9). San Crispino does some great classic tastes, while Fatamorgana also has an interesting range of more creative flavours, with spices and herbs.

Divina is absolutely right, Piazza Navona is a Christmas time must. It is a bit tacky maybe, but it is with no doubt a part of Roman life. My mom, born and raised there, always brought us to have alook around as me and my brother were kids, whenever we were speding Xmas in Rome. I have loads of memories there.

It is actually very easy to eat badly in Rome, one just needs look at the many "menu Turistico" eateries you find in the center: avoid at all costs. Also avoid sitting in cafes (Bar in Italy) in extremely touristic areas, you can pay as much as four times wnat you would pay standing. One exception is Caffe' Greco, near piazza di Spagna, a beautifull historic cafe', worth it if only for the atmosphere.

I'll be back with more

[Carrot Top]

Thanks, albiston...can't wait to hear. My usual tactic (when visiting somewhere I've never been) is to spend about half the time doing what I should be doing...seeing the 'important' sights...and the rest of the time tucking a good map into my bag and wandering way out of range.

This has proved both 'good' and 'not so good' in the past, but always interesting.

Florence was very good for me in this way...fantastic home-style trattorias found way out in the middle of nowhere...and of course Paris but less so with the food but moreso in understanding the true-ness of the place...which is not all Champs-Elysees nor Montremarte which was where I lived. Mexico too...I remember getting caught in the middle of a cobblestone street full of rampaging pigs being driven home by some young children...hilarious and fascinating for all of us. Well...maybe not for the pigs....

Sometimes even getting lost is okay....just adds to the adventure....

So tell all...Oh! I have a question. You live in Germany I think? How do you think the Italian Christmas for a visitor (or even for inhabitants) compares to a German or Austrian Christmas? Are there Christmas markets and such lining the streets with lengths of ribbons and tree decorations and all tucked into boxes gleaming for sale?

Edited October 21, 2004 by Carrot Top (log)

[albiston]

Thanks, albiston...can't wait to hear. My usual tactic (when visiting somewhere I've never been) is to spend about half the time doing what I should be doing...seeing the 'important' sights...and the rest of the time tucking a good map into my bag and wandering way out of range.

This has proved both 'good' and 'not so good' in the past, but always interesting.

←

I love to visit cities with the same tactic, at least when I can take the time to do so. Interesting and it gives you a different perspective of what the city "feels like". Venice is one of the cities that IMO should only be visited this way. Almost every little sqaure, street corner, tiny church has its own special charm. Plus, getting "lost" you avoid the tourist hordes. Rome has plenty of nice places to just wander around, getting a feel of the city. But I don't think you'll find any pigs... I wouldn't exclude sheeps though

Oh! I have a question. You live in Germany I think? How do you think the Italian Christmas for a visitor (or even for inhabitants) compares to a German or Austrian Christmas? Are there Christmas markets and such lining the streets with lengths of ribbons and tree decorations and all tucked into boxes gleaming for sale?

There are Christmas markets, like the one in Piazza Navona, but German and Austrian ones just have a special atmosphere hard to find anywhere else. Weihnachtsmarkt is a rooted tradition in German speaking areas and also a central part of the social life especially in smaller towns. In Italy Christmas markets don't play a similar role, the social bit takes mostly place at home. Also no mulled wine on sale .

[divina]

PerhapsI am biased. but think on the whole it is easier to eat good food in Florence than in Rome.

I went to a market in Rome at Ponte Milvio, that is also supposed to have a pre christmas market ( objects... not food) that I really liked.

Remember for the holidays that lunch is the big meal, not dinner and that the day after is also a holiday!

I have a rather long list of places I like in rome if you would like to email me.

[Carrot Top]

PerhapsI am biased. but think on the whole it is easier to eat good food in Florence than in Rome.

I have  a rather long list of places I like in rome if you would like to email me.

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What? Regional bias about whose food is better, where, in Italy?! I am shocked, shocked.

Will email you, divina...and thanks.

[JC]

Try the Trionfale Market near the Vatican (Metro Cipro stop). The stalls are set up along Via Andrea Doria and it's a wonderful place to pick up fresh fruits and veggies, cheeses, etc and just observe the Romans shopping and interacting. At the northern end of the market is a bakery (about 2 stalls wide) that sells very nice baked goods, cakes, etc - excellent place to get something to munch on while wandering the market.

[JC]

If you take a walk up Monte Aventino (nearest metro is Piramide), a bit of an uphill walk mind you, you'll find Sant Anselmo. This is a monastery where in the evenings (around 7 pm) the monks do Gregorian chants. Just round the corner is the Priory of the Knights of Malta, where you should peek into their bronze keyhole (for a nice and surprising view).

[Carrot Top]

Thanks, JC. These walks sound fascinating and beautiful!

[balex]

That is a good time to visit Rome. The Christmas season sort of starts at Chistmas and goes up until Bephana -- Twelfth Night -- so it is still the Christams season. It is very different from the English and American way which ends on Christmas Day and starts sometime about now.

Piazza Navona has a good Christmas market which sells a lot of crib artefacts which make good gifts, and (this is eGullet) sells good porchetta (whole roast pig stuffed withe herbs). This is normally porchetta from Ariccia rather than the Tuscan style.

Generally Christmas is on the end of th white truffle season, but this year is apparently very good for truffles so you should be ok.

For food markets, Ponte Milvio is good, but not terribly convenient to get to. Try Campo dei Fiori -- which has a good salami shops that will vacuum pack stuff, and often a few other good shops for portable food -- small honey producers, olive oil etc.

Rome has few exceptional restaurants, but it is difficult to have a bad meal there IF YOU AVOID THE MAIN TOURIST AREAS. (sorry for shouting).

Are you into wine?

[Carrot Top]

Thanks, balex..some great suggestions there. Oh...don't worry about the shouting, my feeling is that a good shout once in a while adds a sort of joyous punctuation to almost any occasion. And I will follow your advice about the tourist areas.

Wine? I 'used to be' into it...studied it for two years with Kevin Zraly when he was teaching his courses at Windows on the World. And then of course, I had the responsibility in my job for purchasing quite a bit of it...so neccesarily had to taste many many bottles of fine vintages.

Just part of what one must suffer through for the job, you know.

Unfortunately, after having two children 'right in a row' some time later, I discovered that even one glass of wine would put me right down for a nap much quicker than I could get them to go to sleep! So I am out of the loop with wine in many ways, today.

Do you have some way for me to better myself, to find my way back into the loop...while in Rome?

I hope so....it would be a kindness. Where shall I go for a good bottle of wine?

Edited to clarify that it was me drinking the wine not tossing it down the gullets of babes...

Edited October 26, 2004 by Carrot Top (log)

[amccomb]

Wow! I, too, will be in Rome over that period - from December 27th through January 7th.

My husband has charged me with finding at least 2 very good restaurants - money is no object for these two dinners. We are also traveling with a group of 7 friends, and my friends have asked me to find a place for New Year's Eve dinner. Any recommendations?

I have seen many recommendations to avoid the touristy locations, and I have to admit, i know very little about Rome and have no idea where those areas might be. Can you tell me where to avoid?

Also, my husband would like to take an overnight trip on the train to a nearby city for a day. If you were in Rome over this period of time and had one or two days to go somewhere else, where would you go and what would you recommend there?

I feel so lost since I am clueless about Rome and the rest of Italy. Help me!

Edited to add: My husband also wants to try some restaurants of different ethnicities. He loves to see another countries "take" on different ethnic cuisines. For example, he loved Indian in Ireland and Thai and Mexican in Korea.

Edited October 26, 2004 by amccomb (log)

[balex]

The Italians are really insular -- so no non-Italian food in Italy is interesting, IMO.

The areas to avoid are:

directly around the spanish steps;

near the Vatican museums;

in the bmain piazzas (Navona, Pantheon etc.).

There is still good food there but your chances drop from about 95% to about 25%.

Very good cost no object restaurants .. difficult. Personally I like la Rosetta. A lot of other places start to lose the plot and the food gets too elaborate, and starts getting a bit, well, French.

Agata e Romeo is good too, but a bit on the fancy side.

For wine, Casa Bleve is an offshoot of the famous wine shop in the ghetto.

[amccomb]

The Italians are really insular -- so no non-Italian food in Italy is interesting, IMO.

The areas to avoid are:

directly around the spanish steps;

near the Vatican museums;

in the bmain piazzas (Navona,  Pantheon etc.). 

There is still good food there but your chances drop from about 95% to about 25%.

Very good cost no object restaurants .. difficult.  Personally I like la Rosetta. A lot of other places start to lose the plot and the food gets too elaborate, and starts getting a bit, well, French.

Agata e Romeo is good too, but a bit on the fancy side.

For wine, Casa Bleve is an offshoot of the famous wine shop in the ghetto.

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Thanks for the information! This is exactly what I wanted to know, I appreciate it.

I mentioned to my husband what you said about the "cost no object" restaurants starting to lean towards French. He said he would love to hear about a couple of those, and that maybe we can hit one French-influenced place and one more traditional Italian.

I feel like I am learning a lot in this thread and I am betting there are more like it in this forum. I'll do a search, but if anyone has any specific thread to recommend, I'd appreciate it!

[Carrot Top]

For wine, Casa Bleve is an offshoot of the famous wine shop in the ghetto.

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Thanks...had to log back on to clarify my last post... If you think of any other wine shops, please add them?

amccomb...it will be fun to compare notes of our visit(s) afterwards!

Edited October 26, 2004 by Carrot Top (log)

[DaleJ]

amccomb: I would surely recommend a train trip to Orvieto. A terrific duomo and one of my favorite restaurants, I Sette Consoli at Piazza San Angelo, 1/A, a block or so from the top of the train station funicular. Tel & fax: 0763 343911, closed Wednesdays. (And from November 1 until June 30 closed for Sunday dinner.) A woman chef with local renown. Also, if you're into wood sculpture don't miss the studio of Michaelangeli, right on the main street. I shot my allowance there last year.

[JC]

Had a good meal at Dal Toscano, serving Florentine specialities. Their bistecca alla fiorentina was something else.

[JC]

The other thing I would recommend to those travelling to Rome, hire the services of a good local guide. A guide can really bring the city to life and reveal so much background that you'd miss just walking around by yourself.

I was introduced to Francesca Caruso and she was an excellent guide. Clear spoken English and passionate about her work. She does private group tours and charges by the hour. If you have around 4 persons it works out quite reasonably. She can show you the most popular sights, or customise an itinerary just for you.

Oh another suggestion for what to see: the Vatican Scavi (excavations). I enjoyed this very much. Need to book in advance. Also the Borghese Gallery.