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Les Halles


maremosso
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I'd be grateful if anyone could give me any tips rearding staying in this area on my trip to Paris in 15 days' time - any eateries there that anyone knows?

I'm sure our loyal Paris-lovers will give you lots of ideas; but as you probably know, the Les Halles metro and RER station, albeit grubby, is very central and you can get to almost any restaurant in minutes. Within Les Halles, food is fast, but I'd encourage you to look through past threads and the Digest and not be intimidated if places that sound nice are a few subway stops away (my calculation is 1.5 minutes per station, so even 10 stops with one change is only 15-20 minutes away). You have to refine what you want though; eg wine bars, bistros, starred restaurants, new ones; there are threads on them all. Happy hunting!

John Talbott

blog John Talbott's Paris

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Maremosso, what exactly are you looking for? Lunch or dinner? There's a nice wine bar called La Cloche des Halles, rue Coquillère: if I were you, I'd try it around 2PM -- otherwise, the place is really crowded. Some consider they're not as friendly as they should be, but the place is quite typical. Another café and bistro, not far away from the place des Victoires and les Halles: la Tourelle.

"Mais moi non plus, j'ai pas faim! En v'là, une excuse!..."

(Jean-Pierre Marielle)

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I also would like to buy a good French cookbook while I am in Paris.

I would greatly appreciate your help in this - if you could have just one French cookbook, which one would you buy, and why?

Thanks again, I am looking forward to your help!

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To me, the classic Les Halles bistrot, dating back to when the market was still there, is La Tour de Montlhery - also known as Chez Denise. Open 24 hours from Monday am to Saturday am. Not for the dieters, although the food is a "bit" lighter at lunch. Great frites and meat.. Need to book at night

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Chez Clovis for lunch and Chez Denise for dinner. The rabbit in braised in mustard sauce at the former and the beef cut special for 2 at the latter. Both amongst the last survivors of the old, true Les Halles bistros. Where the market workers would attack a tete de veau while the rest of Paris thought about their first cafe.

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i have a soft spot for au pied du cochon as it was my first real parisan dinner many moons ago.

it is famous for its onion soup which is very good and its various preparations of pig products.

i have never been disappointed with my 'first night' meal of onion soup, steak bearnaise and profiteroles, but it is touristy and i'm sure there are more authentic places but i'm sure i'll be back again, although i have chez denise already on my list.

gary

you don't win friends with salad

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Everybody seems to go to Au Pied de Cochon once but usually as a neophyte in Paris or in other exceptional circumstances. In our case, it was the only place around happy to take a midnight booking for 12 after a great Bruce Springsteen concert in Bercy. Admittedly we had a memorable night but I think food had little to do with it - what you get is fairly run of the mill bistro stuff and some indifferent wines. An Italian friend insisted on ordering pied de cochon which proved to be inedible.

By all means go there if you're with a lively group needing some basic if pricey late night sustenance but if you want some great memories of eating in Paris, try some of the other recommendations.

Paris is really a compact city with good communications and you really don't need to travel far. Les Halles has more than its share of tourist traps - there are several threads on this ite which will lead you to better choices whatever your budget and tastes may be.

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kerriar, Denise is really close to the Pied de Cochon, and I'd go there if a had to book a table for 12 at midnight after a Springsteen concert! :wink: I was at Denise a couple of days ago, late, with six or seven friends, and it was just great (well, actually, the french fries were not that good, but who cares when you're having a huge steak tartare and plenty of brouilly?) And Denise is much more authentic than the Pied de Cochon.

"Mais moi non plus, j'ai pas faim! En v'là, une excuse!..."

(Jean-Pierre Marielle)

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