Food Periodicals

[jamiemaw]

I was interviewing a young, clever and ambitious chef the other day. He quickly turned the tables and began to interview me. His curiousity ran far outside the preoccupations of most young chefs; he wanted to know what extracurricular reading he should be undertaking both to enhance his knowledge and to keep current. In addition to reading the greats (McGee, David, Trillin, et al—perhaps that’s another thread) and the obvious monthlies, I suggested the following periodicals. In exchange for a mainly modest investment, they return much:

1. This week’s New Yorker (Sept. 6), which is the annual food issue, with an article on pasta by Bill Buford, the snoek by Calvin Trillin, ketchup, lettuce anthropology, and a 37-course lunch eaten by Jim Harrison.

2. The weekend edition of the London Financial Times, which has excellent food and drink writing, including the formidable Jancis Robinson on wine.

3. The weekend edition of The Wall Street Journal, for similar reasons.

4. The Wednesday (food) editions of The New York Times and LA Times, and London’s Sunday Times, each available on-line. The London Sunday Times features the remarkable AA Gill and the unremarkable Michael Winner.

5. Food Arts, which is published in New York and features a lot of industry goings-on, new openings and design.

6. Nation’s Restaurant News, which covers the gamut, from fast food to fine dining and a lot of very big stainless steel things.

7. Cook’s Illustrated, which covers a lot of fundamentals but offers fastidiously-tested methods on the best way to prepare them—it removes the trial and error and there are many applications for commercial kitchens.

8. Australian Vogue and Vogue Traveller. Australia has one of the most emancipated culinary scenes in the world. Here’s how they do it.

9. EAT magazine from Victoria, a monthly, is tightly edited and brimming with information from across the province.

10. Spain Gourmetour, an excellent compendium from Iberia.

11. Wine X. Begun in Aussie, now the US version pronounces wine trends amongst the 20-28 age cohort.

12. Cuisine, the glorious monthly bible of New Zealand food, wine and travel and perhaps the best produced of the lot.

13. EAT magazine from Tokyo, which tours the world, touching down on common themes.

14. Olive, from London, which will shortly feature an article on Vancouver

Many of these are available at Barbara-jo's Books to Cooks.

Any you would like to add to the list?

Edited September 6, 2004 by jamiemaw (log)

[Carolyn Tillie]

I have to disagree about both Cooks Illustrated and Wine X as periodicals for professionals.

Regarding Cooks Illustarted, while it offers reasonable suggestions for the home cook, I believe most professionals would quickly be bored by its analysis and overview, which tend to be for home cooks. Besides, if one subscribes for much more than 12 months, a pattern of repetition will be noticed as they begin to re-analyze the basics of roasting a turkey, making a flaky pie crust, and baking the perfect cheesecake.

Regarding Wine X, I again feel that any professional would gain little from this publication. Its executive publisher (whatever he is called) is Justin Timberlake of boy-band fame. It has less than no substance and is nothing more than an excuse for glam photography shots of 20-somethings with too much money. It does not elucidate anything regarding the industry or the product of wine as a beverage.

I would. however, recommend Sante as a magazine for restaurant professional that looks at business practices, beverages (more mixed than unmixed) as well as food trends.

For pure vision of food trends around the world, I recommend Saveur, Gastronomica, and Slow Food's The Snail.

[stovetop]

Regarding Cooks Illustarted, while it offers reasonable suggestions for the home cook, I believe most professionals would quickly be bored by its analysis and overview, which tend to be for home cooks. Besides, if one subscribes for much more than 12 months, a pattern of repetition will be noticed as they begin to re-analyze the basics of roasting a turkey, making a flaky pie crust, and baking the perfect cheesecake.

As a professional I do not find Cooks Illustrated that boring, we even as professional do not know everything, Cooks has some great concepts and pictures that give a great explanation of what they are cooking, for me it is about interest, or a particular dish or idea, that I look for.

I find all food magazines follow the same boring seasonal flows of food, not just Cooks, I mean, if you have not figured out how to cook turkey after 30 years, no magazine will teach you that if you have not figured it out.

I like Food arts and Saveur and moments for food and wine and gourmet both can be great periodicals, but they too can be repeating.

There is a great opportunity for a local food publication here on the Coast, I like the Pacific Northwest??, this publications covers Seattle, Portland and Vancouver, at the moment Portland seems to be doing many things that interest me, The Restaurant and Pub business seem to be doing well, Great chefs doing interesting things, this region needs more coverage, the wine, the micro beer industry, and regional agriculture are all flourishing and are doing great things

[jamiemaw]

I left off two important entries: BC Restaurant News and Wine Access. Jason McRobbie, the editor of BCRN, is an intrepid and fairminded researcher of the provincial culinary landscape and reaches beyond the industry to elaborate. Wine Access is a useful Canadian manual, and has lots of event and tasting content from the West via Vancouver Sun columnist Anthony Gismondi.

Saveur, Gastronomica, The Snail and Sante are some more sound choices, as proposed by Carolyn Tillie--thanks.

I'll have to agree to disagree about her proposed exclusion of Cook's Illustrated and WineX from our list though. In the case of the former, there are many pros (especially emergent ones) who use it regularly. And although it can be pedantic (especially with niggly in-kitchen tips and techniques), I continue to find its "master recipes" worth the price of admission. As regards WineX, I say ignore this demo at your peril. And although I didn't realize that Justin Timberlake is involved with its publication, local boy Jason Priestley is--but I don't much care if it's the 90210/FHM of wine commentary. A number of wine buyers/directors we know use it as a predictor for what comes next and its value-driven articles and reviews. In short, the received opinion is that it educates a younger age group, ready to move on from RTD coolers and flavoured-vodka martinis. And that can't be all bad.

Cheers,

Jamie

Edited September 6, 2004 by jamiemaw (log)

[chasmartel]

My current hands-down favorite is "Art of Eating" by Edward Behr. Check their website at: Art of Eating

Published quarterly, there is usually one main article, one or two secondary articles and some book reviews. The main article usually bores down on one topic in quite a lot od detail. I remember on the state of veal in the US, and another on pork. The writing is calm and matter-of-fact (kind of the opposite of A. Boudain). Many are written by Mr. Behr, but he has a number of other contributors. No advertising.

I also enjoy "Simple Cooking" by John and Matt Thorne.

I can't bear the Kimball fellow on his "America's Test Ktichen," so I don't think I'm likely to ever give Cook's Illustrated a chance.

edited to delete unintended quotation

Edited September 6, 2004 by chasmartel (log)

[Daddy-A]

I like the Pacific Northwest??, this publications covers Seattle, Portland and Vancouver, at the moment Portland seems to be doing many things that interest me,

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Steve,

I think you're taling about Northwest Palate. It's published 6 times a year I believe. Nice rag ... good info ... a bit travel-loggish for me.

I agree on the Portland comment

Arne

[stovetop]

I think you're taling about Northwest Palate. It's published 6 times a year I believe. Nice rag ... good info ... a bit travel-loggish for me.

Yes!, that is it, sorry for being so vague

thanks

[Foodie in Vancouver]

A book I really enjoyed was The Fourth Star by Leslie Brenner. It describes a year in Daniel Boulud's restaurant from all perspectives behind the scenes. As one who only knows of restaurants only from the diner's point of view I found it fascinating.

The underlying plot is Daniel's quest to get his 4th star from the NYTimes reviewer, William Grimes. (Who has written a slight but charming book about a rooster that mysteriously shows up in his backyard - forgotten the name of the book, but it was delightful) I have no idea how accurate the portrayal is but I was completely immersed, totally caught up in the descriptions of the tensions between the kitchen and the wait staff as they cope with the demands of their very high-end customers. I swear my heart was pounding at times as they scrambled to get the orders out. I would be interested to know whether those who are in the know view this depiction - accurate or ?

Like others, I too, love Calvin Trillin and the New Yorker. I am savouring the food issue and will enjoy it on vacation later this month. Cooks Illustrated has provided me with some great foundations and I still can get standing ovations for beef cooked at low temperatures described in one of their early issues. I agree, that sometimes it can be quite tedious to read how they have cooked 72 batches of chili in search of the perfect recipe. But, for staples and old stand-bys they provide a good place from which to start. My daughter has recently challenged me to make the perfect cinnamon buns and I plan to begin with the recipe in the most recent issue of CI. But they can sure write some stinkers - we recently tried their recipe for sorbet and are still recovering from the sugar overdose.

My favorite wine writers are Dottie and John from the WSJ. I have been in withdrawal while they have been on holidays. Their book, Love by the Glass, is a great read and is a wonderful reminder that wine is for drinking and enjoying. Making wine accessible is their mission - they love wine and want nothing more than to share the love. One of these years I am going to join in their communal 'Open that bottle of wine night'. Maybe we could get one going here in Vancouver?

[jamiemaw]

Hello Foodie,

Heartily concur about Dottie and John in the weekend WSJ--they've taken some brave steps to demystify wine as opposed to say, the vestigial and often innacurate writing found in The Whine Dictator.

One other writer whom I think you would enjoy (and who's been even more overt in taking the mickey out of the wine industry) is Lawrence Osborne in his book The Accidental Connoisseur. It has especially hilarious chapters on Robert Mondavi and Leo McLoskey, the founder of Enologix, who purports to be able to 'design' wine for vintners to order to qualify them for a Parker 92. Very good stuff.

What makes it especially appealing is Osborne's self-deprecation (to the point of painting himself as the oenophilic equivalent of a stumblebum) when, in fact, he's clearly anything but. Between the lines, he gently instructs that irony really does require two audiences and is not quite as simple as a black fly in your chardonnay, as Alanis once had us believe. It should be required reading for any would-be whinie.

Although I thought The Fourth Star was based on an interesting premise, I thought it went on a bit too long. I thought that some of the dynamic tension she built up about the pressure and stress of a NYT four star-rated kitchen such as Restaurant Daniel foundered later in the book. Do you agree?

She certainly did capture the idiocy of that arseholed maitre d' who was particularly adept at castigating/humiliating the tourists during first (pre-theatre) seating. One of our favourite sports used to sitting in the bar at Daniel after work and watching him do precisely that while extracting fifties for an inferior table on the side of the corral.

But, in what I think could only be described as very lazy reporting, I thought she got Thomas Haas completely wrong, painting him to be some sort of malevolent demi-monster. As anyone who knows Thomas (who even under pressure I've found to be pretty patient, even gracious) realizes, he's far from it. But maybe that attitudinal difference is one reason he moved back here to raise his family.

You're absolutely right about how she wrote about the customers--those Type A's who only had kids so they could get pre-boarding.

Foodie, last time I looked Barbara-jo had some copies of The Accidental Connoisseur--I think it's right up your alley. And for anyone out there who hasn't had the pleasure of reading Calvin Trillin, the collection called The Tummy Trilogy (which includes his classic Alice, Let's Eat) is also available there.

Thanks again for your generous contribution to La Grand Bouffe.

Enjoy.

Jamie

Edited September 10, 2004 by jamiemaw (log)

[Coop]

Wine X rocks dude. I found it to be like liking a toilet seat at a Washington state rest area.

[andiesenji]

I am very partial to BBC GOOD FOOD which has recipes for all levels of cooking experience, food news, appliance news, etc.

It does not "talk down" to the novice as some publications do. I find that very refreshing.

The Australian publication "delicious, is also a very informative and interesting magazine with excellent content, again for all levels of expertise.

[DameD]

Talking about Australian Publications i like Donna Hay, really informative and great recipes and beautiful layout. The only down fall is that we are opposite season

[Daddy-A]

Like others, I too, love Calvin Trillin and the New Yorker. I am savouring the food issue and will enjoy it on vacation later this month.

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Foodie,

I hope you've had a chance to do that reading. Had my head burried in the New Yorker food issue for the last couple of weeks. I am admittedly a New Yorker newb, but this issue may change that.

Highlights for me:

• Two of the Cooking Lesson articles. The first, Killing Dinner deals with a teenager trying to one-up her dad by showing she can hatchet-the-bird on her own. Funny & poignant. The second The Long Way Home deals with an Indian woman dealing with her mother's rule over the kitchen. Knowing a number of Indian families myself, this one was right on the mark.
  
• The Jim Harrison article Annals of Eating tells of a 37 course lunch enjoyed(?) by one of my favorite writers. If you've read The Raw & The Cooked this makes a nice epilogue. There should be a warning after the article; "Don't try this at home."
  
• Calvin Trillin's Letter from South Africa talks about food nostalgia from a nationalistic p-o-v. Reminded me of backpacking in Skandinavia, really craving a bowl of Cheerios. Cheerios are no snoek, but I don't need to worry about the bones that could pass as "mouse javelins."
  
• A bit of lucky detective work helped me discover the meaning of Jamie's tag hidden in Kitchen Bitch by Bill Buford . Kinda like George Plimpton in the kitchen. A Kitchen Confidential flair to this article. Made me crave lingine alla vongole or at least some really good tortellini.
  

Lots more to read!

Arne

[eatbc]

I second (third?)

Sante Magazine

Wine Access

Saveur

New Yorker Food Issue (I missed this years, does anyone know where I can find one?)

I must disagree about BC Restaurant News and the other Canadian trade magazines. They're full of ads and useless info related to the ads.

I know the headline is Food Periodicals, but I wanted to mention a must-have book for foodies, the grand-daddy of them all: The Physiology of Taste, or Meditations on Transcendental Gastronomy, by Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. I have a version translated by M.F.K. Fisher. It's not light reading, but it is entertaining food porn and very quotable. The back cover says "This elegant, witty and encyclopedic meditation on the art of eating, a classic in the grandest sense, has been in print continuously since 1825."

By the way, coop

Wine X rocks dude. I found it to be like licking a toilet seat at a Washington state rest area.

I got it.

[Foodie in Vancouver]

Eat BC - I haven't started my New Yorker food issue because I am saving it for my upcoming 2 weeks in the sun but as soon as I return to the city it's yours.

On a recent sojourn to Alberta for a wedding we stopped into a liquor store for more wine (sorely needed) and spied a free magazine called FLAVOURS (www.flavoursmagazine.ca) (I have no idea how to post the actual link so you will have to type it yourself) I really enjoyed the summer issue which is what was available and came home and subscribed. Excellent production values, interesting and varied articles. I think we in the BC could take a leaf from this book.

Here is a description of the magazine from the Cusine Canada website

Brandon Boone, editor of Flavours magazine and a Cuisine Canada member, has a magazine that promotes the newest Western Canadian food.

Flavours distills the best of the Prairies into a comprehensive culinary roadmap for explorers of all kinds. From ribs to rubs and chefs to champagne, Flavours captures the best of the season. With so many dishes to discover, we include beverage pairings to provide you with an experience, rather than just a meal.

New ingredients and products continue to flourish and Flavours highlights the newest, from coolers to cookbooks. It doesn’t matter if you cook occasionally or spend every moment in the kitchen; Flavours is your guide to Western Canada’s culinary landscape.

Here are a few fast facts on the magazine.

- Flavours is a food and drink magazine written for culinary enthusiasts featuring recipes, drink pairings and engaging articles.

- Flavours magazine is the only food and drink magazine focused on the culinary landscape and hospitality talent of the Prairies.

- Premiere issue launched November 27, 2003.

- Available at no cost with a quarterly circulation of more than 125,000.

- Distributed exclusively at Manitoba Liquor Marts, Saskatchewan Liquor and Gaming Authority locations and Preferred Alberta Liquor Stores.

- Flavours is a split-run magazine. Three different versions (AB, MB and SK) are printed specific to each province’s unique culture and industry.

- The magazine is published in Manitoba by August Communications Ltd, an affiliate of the PW Group.

- Flavours in printed by Print West Communications, an affiliate of the PW Group.

- Brandon Boone, Editor-in-Chief of Flavours magazine possesses more than 10 years experience in the hospitality industry in a variety of capacities from bartender to CBC Radio One 990 food columnist.

So as of Saturday, this is a new favorite.

[SBonner]

"Cuisine" from New Zealand is excellent and begs the question how can a smaller country than Canada produce a glossy food magazine comparable with something from the U.K. or the U.S. Excellent articles, recipes, and uberness.... unfortunately I have never seen it on newsstands here in Vancouver.

[PaoPao]

Eat BC - I haven't started my New Yorker food issue because I am saving it for my upcoming 2 weeks in the sun but as soon as I return to the city it's yours.

On a recent sojourn to Alberta for a wedding we stopped into a liquor store for more wine (sorely needed) and spied a free magazine called FLAVOURS (www.flavoursmagazine.ca) (I have no idea how to post the actual link so you will have to type it yourself) I really enjoyed the summer issue which is what was available and came home and subscribed. Excellent production values, interesting and varied articles. I think we in the BC could take a leaf from this book.

Here is a description of the magazine from the Cusine Canada website

Brandon Boone, editor of Flavours magazine and a Cuisine Canada member, has a magazine that promotes the newest Western Canadian food. 

Flavours  distills the best of the Prairies into a comprehensive culinary roadmap for explorers of all kinds. From ribs to rubs and chefs to champagne, Flavours captures the best of the season. With so many dishes to discover, we include beverage pairings to provide you with an experience, rather than just a meal.

New ingredients and products continue to flourish and Flavours highlights the newest, from coolers to cookbooks. It doesn’t matter if you cook occasionally or spend every moment in the kitchen; Flavours is your guide to Western Canada’s culinary landscape.

Here are a few fast facts on the magazine. 

-  Flavours is a food and drink magazine written for culinary enthusiasts featuring recipes, drink pairings and engaging articles.

-  Flavours magazine is the only food and drink magazine focused on the culinary landscape and hospitality talent of the Prairies.

-  Premiere issue launched November 27, 2003.

-  Available at no cost with a quarterly circulation of more than 125,000.

-  Distributed exclusively at Manitoba Liquor Marts, Saskatchewan Liquor and Gaming Authority locations and Preferred Alberta Liquor Stores.

-  Flavours  is a split-run magazine.  Three different versions (AB, MB and SK) are printed specific to each province’s unique culture and industry.

-  The magazine is published in Manitoba by August Communications Ltd, an affiliate of the PW Group. 

-  Flavours in printed by Print West Communications, an affiliate of the PW Group.

-  Brandon Boone, Editor-in-Chief of Flavours magazine possesses more than 10 years experience in the hospitality industry in a variety of capacities from bartender to CBC Radio One 990 food columnist.

So as of Saturday, this is a new favorite.

←

I just stumbled across "Flavours" magazine the other day at the 41st and Cambie Liquor Store. They had two issues there that are complimentary. I really like the magazine! Lots of good articles on wine / food pairings and interesting recipes for food and drinks. Great colorful food porn as well.

[Memo]

A bit off-topic - but I always enjoy Vancouver Magazine's food articles.

Memo, what's said on eGullet - stays on eGullet

[FannyBay]

Just read the new issue of Vancouver Magazine, best one yet! I was starting to give up on it but this issue is so different. Fresh and new info, especially on restaurants. How nice to read other writers and about different restaurants for a change. There is also a fabulous section on environmental careers. Great stuff!

[honorspianist]

i used to enjoy cooks illustrated as the recipes always seemed so promising. a cheesecake baked 40 times? now how can that possibly be bad? well, i have had massive failures with this and many other recipes from the magazine. the dishes are either so spectacular you never forget them, or they are awful--institutional food would taste better. i agree that the recipes do repeat themselves often, but i actually find the process and analasys interesting, even though i too am a professional.

just my $.02

[Lizzy NYC]

I am always logging on to the New York Times web edition on Wednesdays (or Tuesday night after 9pm) new york times food section to see what has recently happened on the food scene in the big apple. (just returned from a delicious 4 days...) and it is always great to see what is new and exciting there.

I agree with the Food Arts suggestion also, and I have been a devotee for many years (thanks to a free subscription delivered via my mother-in-law in Brooklyn- they only do that in the USA). As for local stuff EAT Epicure and Travel is good, but I noticed that Cityfood was left off the list, and I do read (and occasionally contribute, toot-my-own-horn) to that publication.

I have never really enjoyed the layout of Cook's Illustrated, but that could just be my personal preference. If we are including works like Austrailian Vogue Entertaining, we should also include Gourmet as well as Bon Apetit for good grubby tidbits about home-cookin'.

Edited September 28, 2006 by Lizzy NYC (log)

[Fat Guy]

Mr. Maw, color me embarrassed on your behalf, for you have omitted from your listing perhaps the finest food periodical on the planet -- and it's published right there in Vancouver:

Forks & Corks

Forks & Corks, published by the Greater Vancouver Convention and Visitors Bureau, arrives in my mailbox quarterly. I spend three months waiting -- nay, pining -- for Forks & Corks, and when it arrives I drop everything else and read every word. If anybody calls me during those four minutes, I don't answer the phone. I don't use the lavatory. I don't even make love to my wife -- my wife! -- during that time. It would be unthinkable.

Thank you for listening.

[appreciator]

Mr. Maw, color me embarrassed on your behalf, for you have omitted from your listing perhaps the finest food periodical on the planet -- and it's published right there in Vancouver:

Forks & Corks

Forks & Corks, published by the Greater Vancouver Convention and Visitors Bureau, arrives in my mailbox quarterly. I spend three months waiting -- nay, pining -- for Forks & Corks, and when it arrives I drop everything else and read every word. If anybody calls me during those four minutes, I don't answer the phone. I don't use the lavatory. I don't even make love to my wife -- my wife! -- during that time. It would be unthinkable.

Thank you for listening.

←

Obviously... it sucks...

Any other point you were trying to make?

[Lizzy NYC]

Mr. Maw, color me embarrassed on your behalf, for you have omitted from your listing perhaps the finest food periodical on the planet -- and it's published right there in Vancouver:

Forks & Corks

Forks & Corks, published by the Greater Vancouver Convention and Visitors Bureau, arrives in my mailbox quarterly. I spend three months waiting -- nay, pining -- for Forks & Corks, and when it arrives I drop everything else and read every word. If anybody calls me during those four minutes, I don't answer the phone. I don't use the lavatory. I don't even make love to my wife -- my wife! -- during that time. It would be unthinkable.

Thank you for listening.

←

Colour ME embarrassed, I didn't even know that pub. existed....now I need to seek it out.

[srhcb]

I second (third?)

Sante Magazine

Wine Access

Saveur

New Yorker Food Issue (I missed this years, does anyone know where I can find one?)

In case anybody else needs this:

The New Yorker

Back Issues

P.O. Box 37684

Boone, Iowa 50037-0684

Your order must be accompanied by a check payable to The New Yorker Magazine.

To order by credit card, please call 800-825-2510 or, if you are outside the United States, 515-243-3273.

SB (will steal his Sister's copy )