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Matthew Grant

Restaurants in Prague

124 posts in this topic

Anybody know of any good restaurants in Prague? I will be visiting in March and am interested (as always) to eat in the best places in town. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.


"Why would we want Children? What do they know about food?"

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We were in Prague about 20 months ago and thouroughly enjoyed the food.  We travel a fair amount and do a lot of preparation on where to eat before we leave (we don't want to waste a meal).  Our favorite Prague restaurant is David's; in Mala Strana, just north of the American Embassy, on Treste (Treste bears right past the Embassy, becoming an alley).  It a small house on the left.  We had our most enjoyable meal ever here.  Appetizers: duck pate, smoked duck breast w/Waldorf salad; entrees: duck breast, veal wrapped in bacon w/mushrooms; deer back w/Roebuck sauce (the best meat I've ever eaten); dessert: warmed fresh strawberries w/homemade ice cream, covered with homemade caramel sauce (wonderful!).  We ate there twice and would have gone back, but they were closed for two days for some sort of emergency.

Another terrific place is "Circle Line," a few blocks away, on the square near St Nicholas' Church.  This is a somewhat larger restaurant (David's has 8-10 tables), but great food.  Appetizers: salmon, duck breast w/parmasen, cold potato soup (great); entrees: duck breast w/apricot sauce; rabbit w/morel sauce; dessert: chocolate plate (four different chocolate desserts on a plate for one - delicous).

Both restaurants had wonderful service!  For wine, ask the waiter to suggest a Morovian red.  Dinner, including wine and tip ran ๖-75 for two. Unreal!

A place to avoid is U Modre Kachnichy; high recommended and the food was pretty good, but the service was the worst we've had anywhere. It made the meal unpleasant.

I'm salivating thinking about our meals in Prague. Enjoy!

(Edited by marty at 8:52 am on Jan. 24, 2002)

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Although I was in Prague this past September, if you're looking for traditional Czech cuisine, I'm afraid I can't help, as I can't remember (or spell) where I ate.

However, if you're looking for less traditional options, I highly recommend Pravda, which is located just around the corner from the Old-New Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter.  Despite its name, Pravda is not Russian, but is more of a trendy international/fusion restaurant that defies borders.  Although this type of menu can be dangerous, almost every dish we tried was incredible.

The best dish I tried was a filet mignon crusted in peppercorns.  It was served on top of some fresh cranberries and topped with a bit of blue cheese.  Some sort of red wine reduction was spooned around the plate.  I know this sounds too "busy," but it was incredible.  The bite of the peppercorns was balanced by the sweetness of the berries and the creaminess of the cheese.

Another terrific dish was mushroom blinis.  I believe they were stuffed with chanterelles and herbs and served with a very light truffle sauce.

Although I only had lunch there (actually twice), it looked like the place might have a pretty active bar scene at night, which could be good or bad depending on what you're looking for.

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I have never been to Prague, though I am Czech, but I had an interesting conversation yesterday with the chef--the quite talented and reflective Douglas Anderson--who opened the 4 Seasons Hotel fine dining restaurant there, which for some reason is "Italian."  Not pizza/spaghetti and meatballs Italian,  but as authentic and regionally-based Italian as possible given the cosmopolitan and continental types that would probably be staying at the hotel.  In essence, dumbed down just enough to appeal to a wide range of German and American and other business types and also tourists newly driven to discover the country and take advantage of a strong dollar.  Breakfast was to be American, lunch and dinner Italian, and room service a mix of the familiar, safe and generic.

A  chef from Italy was brought in, the rest of the kitchen staff was Czech, many of the builders and craftsmen were German, a talented pastry chef from the Milan 4 Seasons (who trained under Frederic Bourse, one of the best if not the best pastry chef in Italy) was brought in to consult on the "Italian" desserts--and Douglas's job was to oversee, whipping the whole team into shape in order to set up a functioning system.

Somehow they all managed to communicate just fine (only Douglas spoke English) and Douglas feels that Czech beer was in part responsible--since all were able to gather around and bond over the mastery of the product, with even the Germans nodding in agreement.

As I said, I've never been, but I'd suggest it's worth a try if one were looking for a fine dining experience.  (I hear the Ritz has plans to open a property as well in Prague.)

I have a very favorable impression of Douglas's thoughtful cooking--he's now heading up a revitalized team at the DC 4 Seasons Hotel and prior to that, garnered acclaim at the Vancouver 4 Seasons.  Rocco DiSpirito once worked for Douglas, so too did the former pastry chef of Daniel Boulud, Thomas Haas.

And by the way, during his stay he didn't find any cooking of note in Prague worth a detour.

(Edited by Steve Klc at 6:41 pm on Feb. 8, 2002)


Steve Klc

Pastry chef-Restaurant Consultant

Oyamel : Zaytinya : Cafe Atlantico : Jaleo

chef@pastryarts.com

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And by the way, during his stay he didn't find any cooking of note in Prague worth a detour.

It is a great and beautiful city, and I can't wait to go back, but you do not visit Prague for the food.  There may be a small handful of decent restaurants, but THAT IS ALL.


"Save Donald Duck and Fuck Wolfgang Puck."

-- State Senator John Burton, joking about

how the bill to ban production of foie gras in

California was summarized for signing by

Gov. Schwarzenegger.

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I'm supposed to go to Prague next month and I'm having a hard time ascertaining how hard the tourist areas were hit. I heard Prague was hit very hard, but the oldest quarter was spared?

Anyone have any news or links?


beachfan

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My friend is the head of the Czech tourist board. She has sent me some updates - most of the old buildings are okay - lots of cleanup necessary, but good prognosis...I'll get more information when she has time...

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My friend is the head of the Czech tourist board.  She has sent me some updates - most of the old buildings are okay - lots of cleanup necessary, but good prognosis...I'll get more information when she has time...

Much appreciated!!!


beachfan

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Beachfan, I emailed my friend just now, and here's her response:

"Here's the story: The riverside part of the Lesser

Town area (left bank of the river in the center), esp.

the Kampa island, will probably not be fit for

visiting for a while. But the Old Town is standing,

they are checking for structural damage in the

foundations right now, and from what I've heard today

(I talked to maybe 10 different people over there this

morning) the Old Town will be reopened to residents

and visitors next week, with all the buildings in

place, of course.

But will things be "normal"? No. The subway is in a

really bad shape (13 stations are still flooded,

actually), so that won't run for a few months. There

will be construction work and scaffolding here and

there. Two sidewalks in the Old Town (which was not

flooded for the most part) have collapsed. So there

will be inconveniences, but it won't be a warlike

scene. Plus the castle is still there, as well as the

other 90% of the city which was NOT flooded.

We are telling people to go in mid-September if

possible. By then most of the major sights will be

reopened, businesses ditto."

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The Marriot is at

V Celnici 8

which is where I'm staying. Any idea of the area around there? I'm not sure it's in Old Town or not.

Thanks so much, it's a great help!


beachfan

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Beachfan, the Marriott has not been affected at all.

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The Marriot is at

V Celnici 8

which is where I'm staying.  Any idea of the area around there?  I'm not sure it's in Old Town or not.

Thanks so much, it's a great help!

It is not the Old town, but close.

Ask for the 5th or 6th floor facing the street.


anil

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Since I'm going next month, I thought I'd get this post up to the top to see if anyone has more to add.


beachfan

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U Kalicha is a historic beerhall/eating-place which has probably been touristified since we were there several years ago. They're likely to still be serving heavy stews and big plates of wieners and sauerkraut -- don't go there for haute or nouvelle cuisine! It now has a website, which is probably a bad sign :sad:http://www.ukalicha.cz/english.html


John Whiting, London

Whitings Writings

Top Google/MSN hit for Paris Bistros

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Was in Prague at the end of October for my 39th birthday. I had some remarkable meals, here are a few:

For one lunch I ate at U Zlate Sudne because reviews had mentioned a spectacular view and competent food. The view is incredible - looking out over the clay tile roofs of the Mala Stana towards Stare Mesto. Started off with a terrine de foies gras with apricot coulis, which was ever so slightly spiced with black pepper. The foie gras was silky smooth and luxurious on the tounge. The breast of duck was nicely prepared and for desert a vanilla panna cotta with strawberries. I had a couple glasses of bohemia sekt - overall a well prepared light czech meal.

http://www.zlatastudna.cz; email: restaurant.davidsen@zlatastudna.cz

I had dinner reservations at the Francouzska restaurace, located in the Obecni dum (The Municipal House). I had the menu de gustation (1750 Kn) - terrine de foie gras with apples and cumberland sauce, sea dog gnocchi with spinach and lobster sauce, chicken coq au van with grapes and couscous, veal with pearl onions and potatoes - all excellently prepared and presented. Finished with dessert, espresso and slivovice - a plum brandy - request the golden style, which is much smoother than the clear. The art nouveau dining room is a real treat - service was attentive and professional. The only thing that could have made the evening better was if it had been snowing outside - get a table next to one of the windows.

http://www.frenchrest.obecnidum.cz/

Cerny Kohout (The Black Rooster) which is located in the 5th district, is about a 10 minute cab ride outside central Prague. The Prague Post review: “ elegant and remote. The perfect place for entertaining hard to impress visitors.” The cab ride from the hotel cost 300 Kn - I was a bit concerned when the cab turned down a dirt road. This restaurant specializes in game done in modern preparation - contemporary czech. This was by far the best meal I had while in Prague. I had arranged in advanced an 8 course tasting menu. Started off with a salad of wild duck with strawberries, orange, frisee, cherry tomatoes - bright, beautiful presentation, perfectly balanced. Soup of roasted zander (sweet water fish) with garlic, asparagus and carrot - clean and light. White goose liver roasted with venison foam, served on stewed apple in sweet smelling muscatel, decorated with forest fruits and blackberry sauce - perfectly cooked and beautiful presentation. Roasted quail served on peas compote with dried plums - solid, on the mark. Baked zander with cucumber gnocchi and dill cream sauce - nice counterpoint to the meat dishes. Roasted venison with bacon gnocchi, roasted pear, glazed apricots, raspberry sauce - rich, dense and satisfying. Dessert consisted of home made pie with forest berries on cream foam and smoked czech cheese, camembert and goat cheese baked in puff pastry - both delicious. Add to that 2 bottles of wine. And incredible meal - I recommend this restaurant highly. And the bill, including tip, came to about $80. Also the cab ride back to the hotel only cost 300 Kn.

http://www.cernykohout.cz

David’s, located in the Mala Strana, almost around the corner from the Hotel Constans. It is a small, intimate restaurant - probably about 12 tables max. You have to ring a bell to gain access. I had foie gras with wild berries marinated in Port wine, baked quail in armagnac with plums, marinated deer's back in smooth truffle cream sauce with fresh vegetables, served with gratinated bacon flavored potatoes and for desert, home made poppy seed gnocchi with vanilla-mint sauce and fresh fruits. The waiter recommended a Czech cabernet sauvignon 1994 - which was a nice compliment. This meal struck me as what traditional Czech is - each dish was delicious and a work of art. Afterwards, a complimentary glass of slivovice served in a special hand blown glass. My only quibble: I wish the owner would turn the lights down just a tad. I recommend this place highly - a real treat.

http://www.restaurant-david.cz

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Here are a few more remarkable meals I had in Prague:

I went to U Petrske veze (Peter’s tower) for lunch - located next to one of the remaining towers of the town wall - very easy to locate. Started with a warm appetizer of goose liver with onions and armagnac on toasted points - really well prepared (and I don’t like cooked liver - seared foie gras I love). For the main course old-Bohemian style breast of wild duck in black sauce with Carlsbad dumplings - deep, rich and hearty, perfect for a grey drizzly day. Desert was traditional Czech pancakes with bilberries. Once again - I had a couple glasses of Bohemian sect and a terrific glass of Moravian cabernet sauvignon (unfortunately did not write down the name). I will come back to this restaurant for dinner next time I’m in Prague.

http://www.upetrskeveze.cz/english.htm

Being that the restaurant Kampa Park was closed due to flooding I went to the Alcron at the Radisson Hotel for dinner. The Alcron specializes in seafood - which I thought might be a nice contrast to all the meat dishes I was consuming. The hotel is near the Fred&Ginger building - not a particularly nice area. I started off with Dublin bay prawns with seared foie gras with carpaccio of mango and brown poultry stock. The foie gras was perfect - the prawns were average, too much work for too little meat. Then had lobster soup with shell fish oil, grilled artichokes and lobster meat. The soup was at a perfect temperature - it was velvety on the tongue. It was a chef’s speciality which made me decide to try another recommended appetizer: smoke eel with black truffles, scrambled eggs and potatoes. This was an incredible dish - the flavors were amazing - stop me dead in my tracks. Then had grilled scallops with mushrooms, summer truffles, fried cepes and pasta. The scallops were buttery smooth - the pasta was okay - the mushrooms firm. Desert was warmed blinis with strawberries and raspberries and warmed vanilla sauce - a nice ending. Had a very good Czech white - Veltlinske Zelene, Vinne Sklepy Vatice, 2000. My only quibble - the room had F. Scott’s Fitzgerald inspired 1920 NYC skyline murals on the walls - I could have been eating anywhere - the one problem with eating in a hotel environment. A very nice change of pace.

http://www.radissonsas.com

I had lunch at the Savoy Hotel, which is located near the castle. I decided to try the menu de gustation, which included wine pairings (2100 Kn): Salmon tartar with fresh blinis, tiger shrimp, creme freche and salmon roe w/ Chateau Radyn brut; foie gras with parma ham, figs and grilled endive w/ bohemia sekt prestige -demi sec; saddle of fallow deer with game farce, stewed white cabbage in champagne and herb-potato noodles w/ cabernet sauvignon, Moravska Nova Ves; mousse meringue with chocolate cream and vanilla sauce; Hennessy XO. All the dishes were excellently prepared. I would love to come back here in the late spring because the roof of the restaurant slides open. The chef also does a four course surprise menu for 1300 Kn using seasonal ingredients. As for the hotel itself- it’s suppose to be pretty posh.

www.hotel-savoy.cz

I had reservations at Flambee - a czech french restaurant. It is a cellar restaurant and had just reopened 2 weeks ago. Numerous cellar businesses had been flooded even though they were not near the Vltava. If you’re looking for a swanky, elegant evening, this is the place. The restaurant is done in 1920 art deco style yet the barrel vaulted ceilings remind you that you’re in Prague. The food is international - the service is exceptional. I tried the menu de gustation: mousse of wild duck w/ grilled crepine of duck breast and foie gras with apple orange jam and brioche; roasted fillet of brittany turbot served with truffle jus, potato creme with fave beans; stuffed lamb saddle under pine crust, fricassee of provencal vegetables and polenta croquette stuffed with marscapone; campari blood orange sorbet; chocolate creation using Varlhona chocolate. The only dish that failed to impress was the dessert - everything else was wonderful. The service can be a bit intimidating - at one point I told the waiters to just leave me alone. Had a wonderful czech white wine: Rulandske Bile, 1999.

http://www.flambee.cz/

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I found the 'high end' meals a little disappointing in Prague (price wise nothing was truly high end). I'd agree that Davids is a lovely looking and intimate restaurant but we found the food to be very ordinary. We also found that it was completely empty aside from ourselves - not a good sign in a restaurant in the diplomatic quarter that only has 12 tables!

however, the biggest food and drink related treat in Prague had to be the cocktails at Bugsy's. £1.50 bought some of the best cocktails I can remember! Although the Daiquiris at £2.00 a shot were a little expensive :biggrin:


"Why would we want Children? What do they know about food?"

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I did have a couple mediocre meals:

For one dinner I decided to try U Modre Kachnciky - reviews had praised this place for exceptional Czech cuisine. They have two locations - the Prague Post recommended the one in Stare Mesto. However when I went there the maitre-d insisted on sitting me next to a table of six eyebrow plucked, collagen-botox injected British queens. I was not in the mood to deal with that and went back to the one located in the Mala Strana. The meal, in comparison with the other meals I had in Prague, was mediocre. The first glass of bohemia sekt was flat - I insisted on a fresh glass, which they complied with. The duck liver in red wine sauce was over cooked and tasted like chicken liver. The fallow deer was okay - but once again, in retrospect, I had much better quality and preparation at other restaurants. I would not recommend this restaurant. I may try the one in Stare Mesto next time I’m in Prague but for lunch, not dinner.

http://www.eol.cz/MODRAKACHNICKA/defaulten.htm

I had dinner reservations at Belleveu. I had read numerous reviews praising this place - I was looking forward to an exceptional evening. Unfortunately, this restaurant was a let down. While the food was competent nothing stood out as exceptional. I had foie gras, breast of french duck and a dessert. The restaurant struck me as a tourist haunt. The room seem a bit dusty and dowdy. Even the view of the Castle, while nice, didn’t really add much to the evening. Don’t get me wrong - the food was solid but in comparison to other meals, not unique. By the time I had finished dinner it had stopped raining - I stopped off at a bar in the Mala Strana for a night cap of Becherovka.

www.zatisigroup.cz

As for David’s - the night I went the place was full. The food I found to be a notch above many of the meals I had throughout Central Europe.

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I was impressed with the high end meals in Prague, but I was comparing them to my last visit 4 years ago and the one before that about 8 years ago. At that time most of the more expensive restaurants did not exist and you were lucky if you food was hot.

I enjoyed David but then I had the traditional roast duck with red cabbage and my wife and I were the only ones there, although it was lunchtime.

Bellevue was the most disappointing of the restaurants it was pleasant enough but not as good as David or V Zatisi and more expensive.

Paul

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Forgot to mention this place:

I had dinner reservations at Sarah Bernhardt, located in the Hotel Pariz, next to thew . It is an elegant, restrained art nouveau space - dark turquoise mosaic tiles with highlights of gold, a piano player, a staff waiting to please. I started off with a poultry terrine with foie gras served on a honey sauce - beautifully presented. Next dish was wild duck salami, with marinated plums and balsamic dressing. Main dish was doe medallions with hot cherries and almonds brocollli with creamed potatoes. For wine I had a Svatovar Inecke Barrique, 1999 - competent, nothing extraordinary. Desert was fine. As I sat next to the window I watched couples walk by, the leaves blown about by the wind.

http://www.hotel-pariz.cz/menu_en.html

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Wewere in PRG during the NATO summit. I agree that restaurant scene has changed over the years, but a lot still is to be desired. Basic Czech cuisine and palate is influenced by polish,german,hungarian cuisines.

We did enjoy a meal in a Kosher Morrocan restaurant in Praha 1.


Edited by anil (log)

anil

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Thanks for all the tips on Prague restaurants. I would recommend Restaurace U Medvidku for anyone looking for hearty, local food, though you might want to take some kind of mask to cope with the smokiness of the place. We tried smazeny syr (fried cheese), pivni syr (beer cheese), starocesky kuba (a stew of barley, marjoram, garlic and mushrooms) and pikantni zelnysalat y krenem (sp? hot cabbage salad with horse-radish). All the dishes were excellent, as was the Budvar, and the attached hotel is cheapish, central and atmospheric. Also enjoyed the Pilsner Urquell brewery cafe/restaurant in Josefov, where they have a great cheese platter, that also features the delicious beer cheese.

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Just got an email form the Black Rooster promoting their French and Czech Pig slaughtering feast menu for February:

Appetizers * soups

Home made pork paste with five herna, cognac and white goose liver,

baked in sesame crust and served with stewed pears with clove flavour 148,-

Smokem mosaic andouille sausage flavoured with „garni bouguet“

served on salad made of fresh cabbage with horse radish and Apples 110,-

Rosette made of home made andouille sausage and blood sausage,

served with horse radish, mustard and bunch of salads 110,-

Fine home made brawn with onion vinaigrette, decorated with vegetables 110,-

Soup made of blood sausage „Le Bougras“ – stark pig-slaughtering

broth with vegetables, garlic and seasoned blood sausage 89,-

Old Bohemian pig-slaughtering soup with

leafs of fried onion and crumbled marjoram 89,-

Sauerkraut soup with home made sausage and cream 89,-

Specialities from home farm

Alsace stewed cabbage with juniper berries and wine, latex with smoked

meat, sausage, pork fillet, blood sausage and andouille sausage, served

with home made bread 350,-

Roasted lean home made andouille sausage with blood sausage served

on sauerkraut with potato-pasta balls with onion 240,-

Boned filled knee marined in dark beer with garlic, served with spinach

potato with smoked scrap, decorated with horse radisch salad 280,-

Pork steak filled with sausage cabbage with goose liver, served on green

sauce with roasted eggplants in mustard and garlic 340,-

Pork sirloin baked in pig-slaughtering paste and herb dough,

served with horse radish apples and leaf salads 320,-

Baked in pork liver with savoury pork tatar with Boletka mushrooms,

served with ham pancakes, interlaid with green beans 340,-

The chef prepares for you the meatless dish according

to the momentary offer of raw materials.

Favourite specialities

Caked bluefish in shrimp shell with herbs, served on asparagus risotto

with sauce made of morels and grilled tomato with anchovy foam 420,-

Roasted duck breast with pears and plums on armagnac,

served with potato souflée with white goose liver 450,-

Grilled chicken barbecue with pork fillets and shallots,

served with roasted potatoes with cheese and garlic, cold cream

sauce with tomatoes 350,-

Deboned venison saddle packej into bacon shell on the rose-hip

sauce with cranberries, served with potato soufflé with almonds

and roasted pear with forest berries 480,-

Griled beef-steak made of true sirloin larded with roasted crispy

vegetables with roasted filled potato 380,-

Sweets

Baked apple with dried plums stewed with drop of plum brandy,

served with gnocchi made of apple sorbet and strawberry sautee 120,-

Chocolate bonbone foam with sour cherries in white shell

with almond crust on sauce „Grand Marnier“ 140,-

Basket made from poured lemon dough with vanilla flavour,

filled with fresh forest berries and cognac chocolate cream 160,-

Ice cream terrine with fresh fruits and oran_e ice cream 120,-

Hot raspberries with vanilla ice cream 120,-

Sorbet – pear, lemon, raspberry 80,-

Pear baked in with French cheeses 130,-

Palette of Czech a French cheeses with fruits 280,-

Salads

Vegetable salad with home made brawn and onion vinaigrette 120,-

Lettuce with horse radish dressing 120,-

Mixed leaf salad – Lola biondo, rosso, oak, Frissé 98,-

Mixed vegetable salad (with cheese) 110,-

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I was in Prague a couple of years ago. I've been trying to remember the name of the restaurant where I had a great meal. Maybe someone will recognize the place, maybe it's already been mentioned.

The specialty is wild game. It's at the end of the metro line. I remember walking about a half mile, up a hill. There was an entrance to an express way along the walk. Then turned left, down another road to the restaurant which was in a small hotel.

Had garlic and dill soup, and fallow deer with berries. It was excellent. There was a large aquarium in the dining room. I remember this because I was sitting a table away as they were refilling it and replacing the plants and fish. Maybe I should post that on the pet pet peeve thread, - a restaurant working on it's aquarium in the middle of dinner service. But actually it was all in good fun and as I was on my own it was good to have a project to watch between courses.


Holly Moore

"I eat, therefore I am."

HollyEats.Com

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