Lyon

[Bux]

I'd be curious to hear updates on Leon de Lyon. It's been a favorite of ours over a long period, but I hear some reports that it's slipping. It would be great to hear that it's not, but useful to hear an opinion either way.

We also had a great meal at la Rotunde a few years ago. Philippe Gauvreau, the chef, is apparently a fan of NYC where he ran the marathon one year.

[ginger chef]

only went the once and unfortunately only went for lunch before we were leaving. the food was very rich and without the menu in front of me which i will get it is hard to remember. i do know i had pigs ear bread as a canape which was tasteless really and then my starter was the signatue dish of cantal cheese, foie gras and pork rillette, very tasty but presentation was lacking. know i come to think of it we were actually looked down on by all the staff whilst dining there which made me feel quite uncomfortable. my main i cant remember but my dessert was fantastic a hot chocolate fondant style dessert with praline ice cream, i will get the menu tonight when i get home as well as all the menus from the other restaurants, i had a realy good meal at la rotonde , but the two highlights were chapel where the food was consistent throughout with fantastic service and auberge de l'ille which was very modern and the chef is also the host and spends his time in the restaurant finishing the dishes that come to the table and explaining the techniques, the menu is a seven course set menu. the reason for this is one/ consistency, two/ the size of his kitchen and the space for the other three chefs and three/ he has unfortunately only one arm due to a car acccident.

the one thing i did enjoy about lyon was how welcoming and friendly all the chefs were and all gave me a tour of their kitchens, signed menus and books etc, i stayed at the tour rose next door to the hotel which this year got a star and was top in the guide millau last year which i didnt know and actually the menu didnt appeal to me. maybe next time.

i will post the menus next time as well as my trip to champagne

g c

[Bux]

It's none of my business, but I'm curious to know why you thought you were looked down upon by the staff of Leon de Lyon. I assume you referring to les Loges as next door to la Tour Rose. We had a very good meal there, but I recall the service was a bit aloof and indifferent, worse at the top than from the runners who seemed more eager to please. There was an air of urban conceit that I associate with trendy restaurants rather than gastronomic ones, but the food was redeeming.

[menton1]

Why no mention here of the famed Bouchons de Lyon? I will be in Lyon late summer this year and am so looking forward to eating at these "bouchons", bistro-type places with VERY authentic Lyonnais food. I have heard that these can be as enjoyable as the more-famous Michelin restaurants!

Maybe someone can provide specific names and addresses of these Bouchons?

[Danielle]

Two weeks ago, we found ourselves in Lyon, for the first time in 5 years, determined to revisit Pierre Orsi, Troisgros, Leon de Lyon, etc. etc. It was not to be! In our hotel room (Grand Hotel des Beaux-Arts), a city guide, Lyon City News, beckoned us to a new restaurant: L'Oxalis, 23 Rue de l'Arbre-Sec in the 1st arrondissement, very central.

Sonia Ezgulian, formally the restaurant critic of Paris-Match, with no formal culinary training, heads the littlest place (a dozen or so tables which can sit 26 guests). We made reservations for lunch and were told that the kitchen closes at 1:15 pm. We saw the most strikingly sober, i.e. minimalist storefront dining-room, white tablecloths, beautifully (artfully) lined-up wine and water goblets, white service plates. The subdued colors were on the walls, with simple contemporary art; the only bright colors were introduced by the Murano glass chandeliers, also exquisite in their simplicity.

What were we to expect? The maitre d'hotel, he turned out to be Sonia's husband, seated us cheerfully, brought us the menu composed of an appetizer (l'entree), a main course (le plat), a dessert: apparently no choices -- however, our host let us know that if anything was unpalatable to us, the chef would find a replacement. We gladly accepted the "menu unique".

The menu was as follows: "Thon en salade de cocos aux pommes"-- there was a generous drizzle of hazelnut oil on the plate, and I shamelessly dunked my fresh bread in it, in my husband's too. "Dorade grise, courgettes et asperges a l'huile de roquette". And for the crowning touch, a "Soupe de melon/ glace pistache". Every little morsel was so exquisite, so tasty... we could taste every ingredient separately, yet the whole was undescribable. Wine is available by the glass, a thoughtful touch: not being a great connaisseur, I accepted our host's suggestion and loved it. The complete menu, before wine, Badoit and coffee came to 22 euros per person (prix fixe)

And then we did what we had never ever done before in 30 years of traveling: we reserved a table for lunch the next day! The Maitre d'hotel asked what we would like to eat!!! We were sure we would like anything served by Sonia, but did say we'd like meat for the main course, just to see what she could do. AND SHE DID.

The menu went thus: "veloute d'avocat, champignons marines", the avocado was finely pureed and heavy cream gave it a smooth lucious touch, the marinated mushrooms added a touch of tartness; there was a drizzle of concentrated balsamic vinegar for interest and color. Our meat was a "Filet de pintade farci aux abricots": a lovely contrast in tastes, the sweetness of the pintade and the sweet-sour fresh apricot filling. This time the crowning touch was "Pommes confites et fraises au Sarawack": the strawberries were the delightful "gariguettes".

We had to go back to Paris the next day, otherwise we would have had a third meal there, maybe more! We never had a chance to try dinner, we had concerts and events to attend... Lyon has become a major arts center, with two major contemporary art museums, several contemporary art galleries, and several jazz clubs... Lyon had always been a major source of fine young jazz musicians in the past, it's even better now.

Before "discovering" L'Oxalis, we had eaten at our favorite Bouchon, Le Garet (Authentique Bouchon Lyonnais appellation), where we enjoyed the lightest quenelle de brochet, Lyon style, nice and big, something to sink our teeth and lips into!

I would go back tomorrow if states-side responsibilities did not make me feel guilty.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Danielle, first may I say how pleased I am too see you posting again. Your information is always excellent and much appreciated.

I am particularly grateful for this timely news of your recent find in Lyon. I would add that I see that Oxalis is, as are most good Lyon dining rooms, closed on Sundays and Mondays. However, with your glowing report, we may have to juggle our dates a bit so as to be able to sample the Ezgulian's hospitality. Many thanks.

[Stephen Jackson]

Sounds lovely.

I adore tiny restaurants like this. I'd love it if my place had only a dozen tables or so; you can really concentrate on the detail that way.

In a similar vein, I can highly recommend 'Le Cinq Claire' in Clermont-Ferrand which is similarly minuscule and cosy - fantastic food (chef worked with Gagnaire and Marcon amongst others) and such a lovely atmosphere.

I shall endeavour to try Oxalis this coming holiday (see Nicolas le Bec thread) if my belt (and more importantly wallet) can take the strain.

Edited May 28, 2003 by Stephen Jackson (log)

[Bux]

I am as pleased as Margaret to see your post, although I regret that we're not on our way to Lyon.

[Danielle]

Menton1, I hope I am not too late, but I just read your post... I had inadvertently started a new thread about Lyon, not realizing this one was in existence... maybe you read my remarks in Lyon Revisited.

Two bouchon recommendations: Le Garet (not far from the Musee des Beaux-Arts) and Chabert fils (not far from Place Bellecour). A lot of foodies like the Cafe des Federations, but I don't think it's half as good as Le Garet, my personal favorite. While in Lyon, and it is not a bouchon or a machon, do try the extraordinary L'Oxalis, rue de L'Arbre-sec.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Menton, intrigued by your question re: the quintisential Lyon eating experience, the bouchon, I bring to your attention the following list from FRANCE magazine. I insert the disclaimer that I have not visited any of the following: "Bouchons: Six of the Best"

Au Petit Bouchon-Chez Georges 8 rue du Garet metro: Hotel de Ville Cl. weekends

Brunet 23 rue Claudia Metro: Cordeliers Cl mon and tues

Le Merciere 56 rue Merciere Metro: Cordeliers Open daily

Bouchon Lyonnais Daniel et Denise 156 rue de Crequi Metro Guichard closed wkends

Le Pasteur 83 quai Perrache Metro: Perrache open weekday lunchtime only

Chez Marcelle 71 cours Vitton Metro: Massena closed weekends

[elfin]

Just returned from a week in Lyon. As predicted, the food was the highlight and the football a bore. Everyones' recs were followed and we were NOT disappointed. We THANK YOU all!!

Our first meal was at Le Garet. Showing up with a baby and without a reservation at 7:30 was not a problem. They gave us a choice of the only two available tables-one upstairs and the other by the kitchen. Of course I picked the one by the kitchen since they plated the food right across from us. The Chef kept coming out to see how we liked each course and the friendly staff explained the dishes ordered by others. It was a perfect evening for our first night back in France.

We had Thursday's lunch at Oxalis-right around the corner. We made a reservation for lunch the day before and they seemed to make sure that we were going to show up. Upon arrival at noon, we had the whole place to ourselves. There is a set Menu (22 euros) and no a la carte. Everything was plated beautifully. The first course was lightly steamed tomatos over a bed of eggplant. Both husband and I are not fans of eggplant but it was delicious. The next course was Dorado over a mound of the tiniest cubed zuchinni. Despite the small sized cubes, the chef maintained a nice crunch.

Dessert was simple and delicious- fresh sweetened strawberries with mango ice cream and drizzles of fresh caramel. Only one table arrived as we departed at 1:30. We never saw the place open again.

Three other notable meals were served at Au Rapin Gourmand-open on Sunday and Monday. A delightful place with a friendly Chef who greets diners. Fresh food, charming atmosphere and friendly service. 41 rue Aguste Comte. Had a quick lunch at Le Nord on Monday. Very busy, a bit pricey for the fare but the food was delicious. We ate Saturday lunch at Brasserie du Park-near Cafe Cigales (which has closed). The salad with chicken livers was awesome! Again thank you for the great recommends.

[Bux]

Great news all around, including the upbeat news of traveling with an infant and eating well. Thanks for the good addresses to add to our archive.

[Danielle]

Elfin, we are no longer the only ones to have tried L'Oxalis, and I see by your menu that your meal was creative and beautifully served, as were ours, this past May. I am green -- maybe even red with envy about your eating near the kitchen at Le Garet: we had a table upstairs this time, and could not enjoy the chef's attentive company; we had plenty of attention, and the staff obviously enjoys their guests, they do treat customers as guests without being gushy or commercial.

Where else did you go (and eat) in France? Any interesting "discoveries"? Please share.

[elfin]

Due to threating transport strikes we did not stay in Paris and remained in Lyon the whole time. Three of the nights were consumed with football matches so we were unable to eat dinner. On those nights we planned ahead and bought pates, terrines, cheese, smoked and cured meats and fresh baquettes. Of course a wonderful rasberry tart and chocolate mousse enterd the picture too. IMHO, I love these meals and miss the easy access of similiar delights at home (Chicago). We would wake up in the middle of the night to continue the snacking. We finished the leftovers on the plane enroute home. Again, thankyou all for the great recs. It made life easier during our visit and hope th opportuniy arises again to impose upon you all for more recs! Merci!

[Stephen Jackson]

Le Cour des Loges, Lyon, France

Two days’ semi-fasting in Switzerland after the gargantuan blowout at Marc Veyrat had done the trick, and I was feeling up to another good meal. Now, I have to say that I’ve just scanned the rest of the France board, and notice that it’s rumoured Nicolas le Bec has been fired by the hotel, so I’m not sure whether he was at the helm during my dinner or not. Unimportant really, let’s get down to the details….

Lyon was swelteringly hot, especially the tiny airless alleys of the old silk district where we were staying (La Tour Rose) and eating. We walked the hundred or so yards to the Cour Des Loges, into the impressive atrium which doubles as hotel reception and dining area. It was very hot. Very hot indeed. the whole place had been simmering at Gas Mark 4 all day and we reckoned the architect had forgotten to make the lid at the top of the four storeys open even an inch. There were a few fans blowing warm air from one part of the room to the other, but this heat, I felt, was going to have an effect on the meal. When someone actually noticed us standing in the lobby looking gormless, we were led to our table. It was in a nice spot, beautifully set-up with grey and powder-blue linen, and about the temperature of the surface of Mercury.

We ordered, and almost immediately, a little tray of amuses appeared. They comprised:

a duck liver and cherry jelly ‘lollipop’

a tiny tartlet of creamed potato and morbier cheese

a little wrapped bonbon of salmon and dill

They went very well with the champagne we’d ordered, especially the liver lolly. It was a perfect combination of sour cherry and smooth, tasty liver.

The bread arrived next – this was truly excellent. Aside from home-baked flutes and country loaves, there were thin, melba-toast style slices of fig and raisin breads. I could have eaten this all night. Delicious stuff.

Then, without further ado, our first courses arrived. A bit of a shock not to have an additional amuse-bouche, to be honest, but as the sweat coursed from the temples of every diner, it came as somewhat of a relief.

1) First courses

Mum and Dad - Langoustines with Tomato, Piment d’Espelette et Feves a la Menthe

Me – Grilled Squid, Rabbit and its Kidney, Eucalyptus Infusion

T – Foie Gras with Gentian, Purslane and Dried Physalis

The langoustines sat in a pool of the freshest tomato sauce (chilled) I’ve ever tasted – awesome stuff, just spiked with a little Basque pepper, and sprinkled with lightly minted broad beans.

T’s foie gras was a large slab of fresh liver, caramelized and served with a little gentian flavouring, the physalis lending a pleasant sweetness. Nice dish.

My squid was tender, served in huge flat squares, caramelized, and layered over a kind of confit of rabbit leg, with a tiny roast rabbit kidney, with a few salad leaves, a trace of squid ink sauce and pools of rabbit jus, which was absolutely fantastic.

2) Main Courses

Note: Great way of writing the menus, here. The vegetable is listed as the primary ingredient. Makes you look at the food in a different way.

Me – Ris de Veau with ‘Crunchy Ears’ and Braised carrots

T – Pigeon Steamed in a Cinder Crust, Violet Artichokes

Ma – Frogs Legs, Risotto of Wild Garlic

Pa – Roast Cote de Porc, Cebette Onions

First off, dad’s pork had NO flavour whatsoever, and was cooked way too pink for him (and for me, it has to be said). We were so warm at this stage, that we didn’t bother with complaining. It was just surprising that the pork was so tasteless. However, its marinade/sauce was excellent, and the braised Cebettes were fantastic, but they’re my favourite sweet onions anyway.

Mum’s frogs legs came like little lollipops, crunchy and moist within, great flavours, and the risotto was a creamy, buttery delight, infused with drizzles of powerful leafy wild garlic.

T’s Pigeon was brought out in its crust, then taken back to be finished off, and when it came it looked fantastic; carved around a huge pile of trimmed artichoke hearts, with a little gamey jus to moisten the dish.

My Ris de Veau were very good indeed, crunchy on the outside, moist and tender within, sitting on a pile of caramelized carrots, and soaked with a veal reduction of the highest order.

We were all served with a bowl of smooth potato puree, very tasty indeed, covered with olive oil and lots of chives. It accompanied the three meat dishes very well, and Mum was quite happy without.

3) Desserts

Me – Brioche with Truffle Honey and Beurre Noisette Ice-Cream

Dad – Tulip of redcurrants

Mum – Coffee Mousse

T – Chocolate Moelleux

Good desserts, but my notes didn't leave much in the way of detail, although I can definitely remember mine, which was a dense slab of brioche, covered with a fantastic buttery honey syrup laced with truffle, and a great iced parfait of beurre noisette. It was a remarkable pud, sweet, sticky and the truffle gave it a brilliant musky edge.

Wines: An old favourite, Guigal’s Condrieu 2001, and a Madiran from the same year by Dupuy. Both excellent.

By now, I reckon I’d sweated off all the weight I’d put on at Marc Veyrat, and we decided to leg it to the lounge for coffees. It was almost as warm, but the change of scenery was nice enough.

The Petits-Fours arrived with the coffees, and comprised;

Chocolate/praline ‘lumps’

Eggshells filled with Coconut mousse and rich chocolate ganache

glazed puff-pastry triangles (extremely buttery)

Perfectly made, if a little uninspired.

Service at table was excellent, attentive and friendly, if the welcome was a little vacant.

So, it was a patchy meal, and the heat certainly didn’t help, but whoever was cooking that night knew his stuff. Some elements of each dish were truly brilliant, but it just wasn’t an excellent meal all round. Merely a good meal. And somewhere deep inside something I ate that night lurked bacteria powerful enough to keep me in the little boy’s room for over 24 hours. In the stifling heat. It was not pleasant. And worst of all, we had to cancel our booking at Leon de Lyon for the following night. A great disappointment, that, as it was my father’s suggestion and he was looking forward to it so much. We have agreed we’ll go back soon.

So, I suppose I’d recommend the place as somewhere to go in cooler times, and watch what you order.

[ginger chef]

i stayed at tour rose and if my room was anything to go by 24 hours in the boys room would be like solitary confinement. i didnt eat at cour des loges because as you said the vegetables were at the forefront of the menu and in someways i wasnt sure if it was a veggi menu. just didnt appeal to me . then i heard it was one of the best in town. but hadnt got a star. auberge de lille was my best meal in lyon followed by chapel just out of town

[PS]

What's l'addition like at the end of the day?

I'm possibly going to Lyon in a couple of months and fancy having a spread of meals at different priced restaurants.

[Bux]

I'm bringing this up again because it's just dawned on me that Stephen ate there in July 2003 and that Robert Brown reported, at the end of June 2003, that Nicolas Le Bec, the chef who was cooking when I was there, had been fired. I have no idea when he actually left les Loges, but obviously if he was still there when Stephen was there, his heart would no longer have been in the kitchen.

[Schneier]

These two restaurants were near my hotel at Place Bellecour.

Writing about Le Comptoir des Marronniers (8, rue des Maronniers, Lyon 2nd, +33 4 72 77 10 00), a French guidebook said (in French): "On a tourist street where you have to separate the sheep from the goats, this is a good choice." What do they mean by that? I know what they mean in general: separate the good from the bad. But sheep from goats? Are sheep obviously better than goats? Maybe goats are better than sheep? Are they even interchangeable? Do they both have their uses?

Clearly there's some rural knowledge that I don't have.

In any case, Le Comptoir des Marronniers is a nice, informal, French bistro--definitely a sheep. And it's where I had lunch today.

First course: "Terrine de pot au feu a la vinaigrette d'automne et salade." It was a slice of terrine made with shredded meats, carrots, onions, and potatoes. Just like the menu said: pot au feu in terrine form. (I need to learn how to make terrines. It was served with a pile of bitter greens, and garnished with beet juice. Very tasty.

Second course: "Cassolette de haricots 'come un cassoulet' au confit de canard." What's the difference between a cassoulette and a cassoulet? My waiter said it was the same thing, but my guess is that French law requires certain ingredients and preparation techniques before something can be called a cassoulet. In any case, this was very much like a cassoulet: white beans, duck confit, sausage pieces, and bread crumbs baked in a stone dish. The seasonings weren't exactly right, which is what I expect is different. Even so, it was delicious.

Dessert: "Tartelette au citron meringuee <<Mere Angel>> au coulis de framboise." (I would like to know how to do accents in HTML.)

Total bill, including a glass of generic Cotes du Rhone, was 26 euros. A great deal, I think.

Last night I had dinner at La Tassee (20, rue de la Charite, Lyon 2nd, +33 4 72 77 79 00). I was looking for typical Lyonnais cuisine, and this one was both recommended by Michelin and close to my hotel.

My first course was six cooked oysters on the half shell, served with a slice of bone marrow, and a cheese and red wine sauce. I didn't know what to expect out of this dish, but it was very tasty.

The second course was a boneless leg of rabbit stuffed with foie gras and spinach. It was served in a sage and garlic sauce with potatoes, carrots, and mushrooms. Again, tasty

Then came cheese. I chose a few from the cart: Pont L'Eveque, St. Marcelin, Roquefort, Comte, and a fresh sheep cheese.

Dessert was a pretty pear tart, served with pear sorbet.

I have nothing to complain about at either restaurant.

There's an old saying that I will translate for you: "The Lyonnais eat well, but they are sad." They're said because they don't live in Paris. The more time I spend in Lyon, the more I appreciate that saying. Lyon is a nice city. It's fun to walk around in, and there are some great restaurants. But it's not Paris. Everywhere you go, it's obvious that it's not Paris. It's the first thing you notice about Lyon. It's everywhere. Some cities are their own thing, but Lyon is not Paris first; only after that is it Lyon. I would find it sad to live here.

Bruce

Edited January 23, 2004 by Schneier (log)

[Busboy]

These two restaurants were near my hotel at Place Bellecour.

Writing about Le Comptoir des Marronniers (8, rue des Maronniers, Lyon 2nd, +33 4 72 77 10 00), a French guidebook said (in French): "On a tourist street where you have to separate the sheep from the goats, this is a good choice." What do they mean by that? I know what they mean in general: separate the good from the bad. But sheep from goats? Are sheep obviously better than goats? Maybe goats are better than sheep? Are they even interchangeable? Do they both have their uses?

Clearly there's some rural knowledge that I don't have.

In any case, Le Comptoir des Marronniers is a nice, informal, French bistro--definitely a sheep. And it's where I had lunch today.

First course: "Terrine de pot au feu a la vinaigrette d'automne et salade." It was a slice of terrine made with shredded meats, carrots, onions, and potatoes. Just like the menu said: pot au feu in terrine form. (I need to learn how to make terrines. It was served with a pile of bitter greens, and garnished with beet juice. Very tasty.

Second course: "Cassolette de haricots 'come un cassoulet' au confit de canard." What's the difference between a cassoulette and a cassoulet? My waiter said it was the same thing, but my guess is that French law requires certain ingredients and preparation techniques before something can be called a cassoulet. In any case, this was very much like a cassoulet: white beans, duck confit, sausage pieces, and bread crumbs baked in a stone dish. The seasonings weren't exactly right, which is what I expect is different. Even so, it was delicious.

Dessert: "Tartelette au citron meringuee <<Mere Angel>> au coulis de framboise." (I would like to know how to do accents in HTML.)

Total bill, including a glass of generic Cotes du Rhone, was 26 euros. A great deal, I think.

Last night I had dinner at La Tassee (20, rue de la Charite, Lyon 2nd, +33 4 72 77 79 00). I was looking for typical Lyonnais cuisine, and this one was both recommended by Michelin and close to my hotel.

My first course was six cooked oysters on the half shell, served with a slice of bone marrow, and a cheese and red wine sauce. I didn't know what to expect out of this dish, but it was very tasty.

The second course was a boneless leg of rabbit stuffed with foie gras and spinach. It was served in a sage and garlic sauce with potatoes, carrots, and mushrooms. Again, tasty

Then came cheese. I chose a few from the cart: Pont L'Eveque, St. Marcelin, Roquefort, Comte, and a fresh sheep cheese.

Dessert was a pretty pear tart, served with pear sorbet.

I have nothing to complain about at either restaurant.

There's an old saying that I will translate for you: "The Lyonnais eat well, but they are sad." They're said because they don't live in Paris. The more time I spend in Lyon, the more I appreciate that saying. Lyon is a nice city. It's fun to walk around in, and there are some great restaurants. But it's not Paris. Everywhere you go, it's obvious that it's not Paris. It's the first thing you notice about Lyon. It's everywhere. Some cities are their own thing, but Lyon is not Paris first; only after that is it Lyon. I would find it sad to live here.

Bruce

Thanks for the reports. I'llsoon be in Lyon for a day -- not a sad day, I hope -- and both trestaurants sound like good fodder for an informal dinner with the family.

I'm pretty sure this is not what the guidebook is getting at, but this is from a song by the band Cake...

And the gravedigger puts on the forceps

The stonemason does all the work

The barber can give you a haircut

The carpenter can take you out to lunch

Now but I just want to play on my panpipes

I just want to drink me some wine

As soon as you're born you start dyin'

So you might as well have a good time

Sheep go to heaven

Goats go to hell

Sheep go to heaven

Goats...go to hell

[Schneier]

Restaurant 1: La Reclusiere is in Condreau, south of Lyon on the Rhone. I don't know if it's in any guidebook. We went there on the recommendation of a hotel proprietor. It's a pretty and elegant restaurant, set back from the street. They also have rooms upstairs; if I go back to the Marché aux Vins I will consider staying here as well.

Le persillé de pintade at foir gras de canard au vinaigre Balsamique

A nice terrine of Guinea fowl and foie gras, along with a small bitter-green salad. Very tasty.

Le filet de rascasse grillé sur un lit d'épinards et haricots Tarbais, jus de poisson corsé

Fish filet with spinach and white beans and a delicious fish sauce.

L'oie en civet au vin rouge poêlée de pommes de terre et champignons

Goose in an onion and wine sauce, potatoes and mushrooms. Probably the best dish of the night. Everything tasted well together and just worked.

Le plateau de fromages

I like French cheese plates. All good cheeses, all the time.

La poêlée de poire et raisins, compotée de poire au vin rouge at glace au marc de raisin

Tart fruit and accompaniments.

That menu was cheap at 44 euros, but we bought a lot of wine to go with it. The final cost was 78 euros.

Restaurant 2: Maison Boire is just South of Lyon. It's too new to be rated anywhere, but the chef has a strong pedigree and comes well recommended. There were fifteen of us at this dinner, and we all had the same thing.

Crème de haricots coco en cocotte aux pistaches and noisettes concassées, fines tranches d'Iberico Bellota

The bean soup was good, and the nuts added. But the ham was confusing. It came as a little pile on the side of the soup. Was I supposed to add the ham to the soup? That didn't work very well. Was I supposed to eat it with the soup, after the soup? No one figured it out.

Homard du Maine juste saisi, coeur d'artichauts et de laiture; émulsion froide è l'huile de truffle noire

A perfect dish. Leaving the amusing notion of having imported Maine lobster in France, nothing was wrong with this dish. The lobster and artichoke hearts were delicious, and the cream and the black truffles made it all even better.

Pavé de Sandre de rivière poêlé, Gâteau moelleux d'escargots de Condrieu, sauce lie de vin Côte-Rôtie

Not very good. Sandre is a piece of fish, and that was fine. But the snail cake and the wine sauce didn't do very well with the rest of the dish.

Suprême de perdreaux gris rôtie en cocotte, tartine de salmis et raisins au marc, châtaignes, poires et figues mijotées ensemble, jus de caffre infusé au poirve Sarawak.

Disaster of the night. Perdreaux is young partridge; it took a while to figure that out. There was some kind of terrine of pears, figs, chesnuts, and bread, which just didn't work. And a sauce which we couldn't translate, but didn't work either.

Le plateau de fromages

Dessert was a choice of a flourless chocolate cake, which was okay, and an apple dessert, which was delicious. The apple sorbet tasted like frozen applesauce. Yum.

One possible explanation of this meal was that the chef was not in the kitchen that night. But still; these are all things on their standard menu.

Bruce

[andrew_j_craig]

I've read previous threads on Lyon dining in this forum.

I remain undecided as to which of:

(a) Pierre Orsi ( http://www.pierreorsi.com/ - an annoying Flash driven site);

(b) La Tour Rose ( http://www.slh.com/france/lyon/hotel_osefra.html - alas, no details on the menu); or

© Leon de Lyon, restaurant gastronomique ( http://www.leondelyon.com/uk/relais.htm - again too much Flash) -

I should book for a single fine dinner in Lyon....

Can anyone speak from recent experience on these?

I have a pocketful of recommendations on the bistro/bouchon front (La Mere Jean, La Machonnerie, L' Amphytrion, some bistros in the Leon de Lyon empire).

[andrew_j_craig]

As an amusing aside, I thought I should record some of the menu translations on the Orsi website. Previously I had only read the French version and it sounded appealing. The English reader would surely be baffled by the following menu descriptions

- "Madnesses of Injury Slice of bread and delicacies exquisite

- "Beaten white of the Mounts of Gold to the Acacia Honey"

- "Ox net of Charolais, Race to wine dregs"

- "Casserole - middle class way"

- "Snails of pots of snails of burgundy, very rascals"

- "Marine of the wolf and mullet to the basil"

- "crystallised garlic out of shirt"

Just not quite so poetic in English...

[balmagowry]

On the contrary, I find the English very poetic. "Madnesses of Injury," "Mounts of Gold," "Marine of the Wolf"? Wonderfully evocative. Of what, I don't know, but who cares?

[magnolia]

Just to add to your dilemma, I'd recommend the Auberge de l’Ile on the Ile Barbe( Phone 04 78 83 99 49) a perfect small restaurant, very elegant and interesting. I'll see if I can find my menu over the weekend, if you aren't desperate. I also had a terrific - informal - meal on a boat just under one of the bridges, for which I broke my 'no eating on boats' rule, and I'm glad I did. The food was intriguing and the wine list, as long as my arm - with some serious bargains - and a decent choice by the glass. I will find the name of this for you as well. When are you going?