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Toulouse Carcassone Auch region


kerriar
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We will be spending a week in a friend's house near the market village of Saramon, about 20km south-east of Auch in early September. It is a first time visit to the region, apart from a few rugby related trips to Toulouse over the years.

Any guidance would be appreciated on:

- local restaurants, including table d'hotes, for reasonably priced authentic regional foods, also local markets for eating at home,

- anything slightly more formal - I see that Michelin gives a star to Puits St Jacques in Pujaudran - has anybody any experience here or any where else local?

- all are to some extent foodies and one of the group does not drink and happy to act as driver - we would consider driving a little further (say up to two hours) if there is somewhere that somebody thinks might fall into the "not to be missed" catergory,

- trip will include at least one day in Toulouse.

- any information about smaller wine producers or other specialist food producers who are worth a visit?

This is something of a last minute trip, hence the "catch-all" appeal. I'm not convinced that a week of cassoulet and good rough gascon red will meet the needs of the three women in the group - so some helpful research is needed.

Will happily report back.

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Agen and Eugénie-les-Bains don't appear to be much further away than Toulouse. You're in, or near, Armagnac country, but if you're into eaux-de-vie, there is, or at least was, an incredible producer of artisanal eaux-de-vie south of Agen--St. Gayrand. We visited there eight years ago. You can click on that link for our report of that visit. It's in Moncaut, the postal code is 47310 and the owner's name is Calude Doubesky. I don't have a phone number, but you should be able to find one from the white or yellow pages at http://www.pagesjaunes.fr In any event you'll need to call ahead to see if he's still there, open for business and then for instructions on how to get there. It will be a boring visit for a non drinker, but he'll come in handy by the time you leave if you're going to make it back to Auch.

Someplace in that area near Auch, I had some of the best pizza I ever had from a truck with a wood burning pizza oven in the town square of one of the smaller Bastide towns on market day. I can't remember the name on the side of the truck and there is more than one truck plying this trade, but it's worth trying any you might run across, especially if they're offering a regional topping such as chorizos and red peppers. That's actually more regional to the Pyrenees, but close enough.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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  • 2 months later...

My family will be traveling through Toulouse, Carcasonne, and Bordeaux in two weeks.

I was wondering if anyone could provide some restaurant suggestions. I was hoping for things beyond the list of 1 or 2 star michelin establishments. Establishemnts that are less fancy but still with exceptional food quality.

Thanks in advance,

Craig

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I haven't been to Bourdeaux for awhile but I've eaten very well there just walking around.There was a very nice Morrocan place by a church downtown.

A swell place called Jour et Nuit by the train station.

I had a wonderful Steak tartare with frites there, outstanding.

Just about anyplace in the main circles, kind of by the Virgin Megastore had good food, little brasseries, etc.

Toulouse I only drove thru, kind of a weird place.

Have a great time.

Bordeaux has always been very good to me, can't help but think you'll feel the same.

2317/5000

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I haven't been in Bordeaux in some time, but I'd bet that la Tupina is still a classic choice. I remember a rotisserie that was essentially a wall of fire. Grilled meats are a good choice. A roast pigeon was excellent. It's a simple place with an extensive wine list featuring, what else, Bordeaux.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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  • 1 year later...

Have any EGers any recommendations for eating places in this part of France?

We're hired a place near Pamiers - so sort of half way between Toulouse and Carcassonne. I know there's plenty of places in Toulouse - so the issue there is more what to pick and choose.

Would particularly appreciate places in Carcassonne, Foix and Pamiers - have come across Brasserie le DonJon in Carcassonne but the website is not inspiring, and in Foix - le phoebus and le sainte marthe - but not sure what to make of them. Am sure we will do lots more travelling in that area, but I haven't done all my reading yet.

We're a large group so I'm looking for informal lunches or casual dinners here. But if there is a nicer or more upscale place that is worth a special trip for lunch, then that would be good too. There are a few of us who are prepared to splash out and eat well ...

Cheers

Yin

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Definitely worth a detour is Le Grand Ecuyer in Cordes-sur-Ciel. An idyllic medieval town, this is located in a beautiful historic building. The restaurant is in a gorgeous room, decorated with antiques. Pay particular attention to the artistic spun-sugar decorations done by the patron, M. Thuriès. They are really works of art, and a skill seldom seen.

Web Site

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Pay particular attention to the artistic spun-sugar decorations done by the patron, M. Thuriès. They are really works of art, and a skill seldom seen.

You're right. In addition you can buy 'sugar art' in a small shop in Cordes. Its almost opposite the small town square above the covered market.

Be very careful where you park as the parking police in Cordes are ferocious.

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I stayed at the Chateau de Floure just outside Carcassonne and had a couple of good dinners in a nice setting. Wine prices were a little steep for local wines but had a good selection and the sommelier knew his stuff. I seem to remember them being part of the "Quiet hotels" group which meant no piped music and a really calm atmosphere.

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Definitely worth a detour is Le Grand Ecuyer in Cordes-sur-Ciel. 

Web Site

If you were heading as far afield as Cordes, I'd say that Les Falaises in Cahuzac would be a better bet. Le Grand Ecuyer has always struck me as a bit hit and miss and better at puddings than anything else.

Les Falaises also has the more interesting wine list with lots of interesting stuff from their neighbour Robert Plageoles.

gethin

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I'd say that Les Falaises in Cahuzac would be a better bet.

No sure that I'd agree other than to say that both are pretty good. Cahuzac is slightly closer.

If in Cahuzac, however, stop in Annie Delpech's little B&B and buy some of her jams, jellies or chutnies. (06 63 33 95 50) She's in the Place d'Eglise. Wonderful stuff! We're particularly fond of her green tomato confiture.

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