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Below are rough notes on my lunch at La Tour d'Argent a while ago:. . .

Caneton Tour d'Argent (Duckling Tour d'Argent style) . . .

The duck was quite good, and satisfied my curiosity as one of those famous plates that I'd like to sample at least once. The first serving was in aiguilettes (thin-ish slices). The meat was tender and flavorful, and there was a dark greyish sauce (with only limited hints of maroon) that was granular (fine grains), and that had connotations of blood and inner organs only if one knew blood had been utilized in the dish. The main characteristic of this greyish sauce was its texture and a certain density/consistency. This was a very unusual preparation of duck, and the meat felt different in the mouth (due to having been passed through the duck press).

The second service was nice. Grilled, two pieces of duck -- the upper thigh and another dark meat piece. Tender, flavorful, but with good utilization of the crispiness of the skin and the lusciousness of fat. On the side was a salad with a light vinaigrette and little potato cubes. The meat was simply prepared in this service. Brought to the table was salt (fleur de sel) with parsley bits and dried leeks -- the seasoning was necessary and was put to good use.

Below is an excerpt from Joseph Wechsberg's "Blue Trout and Black Truffles" on the Tour d'Argent canard (duck):

"It was premiered in 1890 by the great chef Federic Delair . . . The ducks come from large duck farms in the Vendee region, near Nantes, where the soil and the climate cooperate in creating half-wild ducks suited for the recipe. At the age of six weeks the ducks are smothered, to prevent loss of blood, packed in paper and crushed ice, and shipped by rail to Paris . . . . The carcass of the duck is put through a silver press and the blood (the 'juice') is caught in a special dish. Added to it are the mashed-up raw liver of the duck, a glass of port, a little Madeira, and Fine Champagne, a few drops of lemon juice, salt, pepper, and spices. The sauce is started on a hot fire, which is slowed down after a while. It must have the thickness and color of melted chocolate. The slices of the underdone meat are cooked in the sauce, under constant stirring, for twenty-five minutes, and served very hot from the silver plate."

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like yourself cabrales i wanted to visit la tour d'argent out of curiosity rather than expecting a great foodie experience.

I had dinner there over easter and had the quenelles, the duck and the beignets, many of these are available on the set lunch which having paid one of the largest bills of my eating career would heartily recommend! (however it is one of only a handful of starred places open on sundays).

The quenelles were nothing special and certainly under-delivered for the £20 or £30 i seem to remember they cost (and certainly not vastly better than the ones i had a few days later at 'la rottisserie de beaujolais' virtually next door). The duck was, well interesting, but the sauce not only very intense was also v spicy. At £80-odd for 2 i was very pleased with my celebratory postcard!

beignets were just boring.

THought the menu's were also tatty with crossings out in pen etc and not up to two star standard and unusually for me i couldn't even be bothered to take one with me.

wine list was great but hardly customer friendly weighing around 10kg, almost put my back out lifting it! Sommelier only warmed up when he realised i had a (vague, admittedly) idea of what i was talking about and an interest in wine.

They say it's a popular place for engagements, i can believe that, it's a romantic setting but unless you're seriously rich i think it's a place you'd only want to visit once. The only 2 star i've ever begrudged paying the bill.

you don't win friends with salad

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  • 1 month later...

Below is an update from TopTable regarding certain Embassy promotions through September 5:

"Embassy, London W1 (Mayfair) - Glamour and luxury are the key words at this stylish restaurant in Mayfair. Exclusively to toptable, receive 25% off lunch and dinner Monday - Friday and get complimentary entry into the members lounge after dinner (lounge not open on Mondays). Offer ends 5th September. Click here for more info and bookings: http://www.toptable.co.uk/details.cfm?rcode=B337"

http://www.toptable.co.uk/Details.cfm?rcode=B337

Note that booking through TopTable.com may be required. :wink: The offer is not specific as to whether the 25% discount is only in respect of food (?).

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  • 4 weeks later...

Went back to Embassy last night. First thing I noticed was a price hike.eg the Venison Wellington listed by Cabrales as £19.95 in April is now £25. Starters seem to have gone up by £2 or £3. The selection of wines at under £20 seems to have diminished.

The menu has changed-the Thermidores have gone,although Lobster (and now scallop) Americaine (sic) and the Chicken Rossini are still on.

Lots of pre-clubbing ladies in their 20s dressed to the nines made up the bulk if the clientele making for a noisy,buzzy if somewhat smokey atmosphere. The waiter told us that the club downstairs catered for 300 people sometimes on a Saturday night and that it was "expensive" down there,presumably making up for the fact that many of the clubbers would only order one course in the restaurant.

Gary Hollihead was not in the kitchen,being "technically on holiday,although he is in the building catching up on paperwork". And he was. Because we saw him. He came in to the restaurant to greet a party at the next table. I couldn't have told you beforehand what he looked like but I realized I'd seen him in photos. He was clearly pressing the flesh as a favour and seemed keen to escape. He ignored us and everyone else (fair enough).

Np pre starters or pre desserts. Again fair enough. Personally I think these are unneccessary frills inexplicably beloved by Michelin. The breads were lovely and along with 3 courses and a lovely chocolate petit four with coffee one has more than enough food.

Lobster,Scallop and Foie Gras Terrine was a little too fridge cold when it arrived but the flavours all developed as it reached room temperature. Fahro's starter of Boudin Blanc on a bed of Girolles,Lardons and Summer Truffles (this latter present throughout the menu) was hot and melting and salty and very very French.

The Venison Wellington was two large chunks present and correct accompanied by a puree of spinach and a small bowl of what was described as "Mashed Potato" but was in fact a potato whip,soft as cream smooth as silk and tasting of the essence of potato. It was glorious.

My rump of lamb on a bed of Provencale vegetables and a potato gratin was unusual in its judicious use of mint-a herb normally disdained by the French-which worked really well with both the pink meat and the crunchy vegetables.

We shared a dessert of Peachy things,including a nice Peach Ice Cream.

2 starters,2 mains, 1 dessert, 2 Coffees +Petit Fours. 2 bottles of wine, 1 glass Sauternes, 1 Cognac.------£154 inc. service,which was pleasant if a little haphazard.

We came out satisfied ,warmed , a bit tipsy and as we strolled hand in hand through Green Park on a warm late Summer's evening with Spurs top of the Premiership for the first time ever, all seemed right with the world.

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