Highbury & Islington

[tony h]

Its rare that "new", "hot", "exciting" & "islington" all appear in the same sentence but I've been asked to find just such a place. any ideas? Oh yes - and open on sunday's. Not easy - but I'm sure if anyone can an egulleter can

PS ball & chain went to Lola's last night - truly awful experience was had - burnt food, very poor service, only thing for a veggie was goats cheese salad. grim

[endless autumn]

Elisha Carter has left Lola's: who's there now? (Morfudd may be lurking...)

Anyway, go to Morgan M: I had a nightmare with wine, but the food is very good indeed: do not go for 'matched wines' - thimble-fulls of ill-/non- matched house wines with each course - buy a couple of bottles.

M Meunier is also very good at vegetarian stuff, if that's a criterion.

And they're open for Sunday lunch.

[Winot]

I went to Lola's a week or so back and it wasn't good. The food was so-so (trying too hard; over-fussy) and the service truly awful. The room's nice but the atmosphere was spoilt by the service and the loud MOR rock.

Apparently the chef is now Brian Sparks.

[Suzi Edwards]

there is a new place called exmouth grill opened in...exmouth market...but i haven't got there yet (obviously) perhaps you can save me a trip :-)

there's also a new lebanese deli/restaurant on upper street. upper upper street i believe, at the H&I end. perhaps jack can jump in here...

if you fancy something quite laid back, i liked medcalfe, once again in exmouth market. it's a sort of a light st john but it's a bar that does good food rather than a restaurant.

there's also zetter in clerkenwell...which i liked a lot and with it being a hotel restaurant i am guessing it will be open on a sunday. would be a great place for a laid back funky foodie lunch. did i just write that? please hold on while i beat myself round the head.

if you want higher end i'd go for morgan m. i've really enjoyed my two trips there. it's quite smart though

[Conor]

You can't go wrong for Sunday lunch in Almeida, especially with the charcuterie trolley.

[magnolia]

Morgan M is a good option but be aware that you should only go if you don't have any plans for the rest of the day. I have eaten there twice, once for Sunday lunch and once for dinner during the week - and any concept of having a meal within a normal time frame goes out the window.

The following aren't new but they are good, pleasant atmospheres - decent food and wine lists and possibly open Sundays...they are 'gastropubs' (someone please invent another terms - quick !)

The Barnsbury

76075519

209, Liverpool Rd

London

N1 1LX

The House

77047410

63, Canonbury Rd

London

N1 2DG

Duke of Cambridge

73593066

30, St Peters St

London

N1 8JT

[tony h]

thanks all

[Suzi Edwards]

if you fancy a gastropub there's also the drapers arms. the upstiars dining room is very pretty and they have an outdoor terrace.

[Morfudd]

I am upset to learn that some members had a poor experience whilst dining at Lola's - please would you e mail me at lolas@lolas.co.uk with more details of what went wrong, so that I can address these issues immediately, and also so that I can invite you back to try us again and to show you that we are capable of doing a lot better...

With regard to Lola's future - Brian Sparks is indeed the new Head Chef and I am delighted by his appointment. He was Elisha's sous chef, he is young and very committed and I think absolutely right for Lola's. As some of you know, Lola's has had a rather rocky last couple of years - the arrival of Hywel Jones at Lola's elicited much interest, but sadly, he did not feel that the restaurant was right for him and he was head hunted by the Pharmacy group, a great shame from my point of view because he is a very talented cook, and, even though we had problems with delays etc, I was sorry to see him go. Robert Reid was a temporary appointment, but again, I was delighted to have so much talent coming into my kitchen.

Elisha Carter was head chef at Lola's for a year and a half, (apparently quite a substantial time for chefs these days) and I believe that he too is talented. Rather frustratingly from my point of view, I have been very supportive of my chefs even when they displayed poor management skills, were bully's, and showed no ability to control costs whatsoever, because I wanted Lola's to be a restaurant where customers knew they could always get good food, and because in order to get consistency, one needs stability, so I have stood by my choices even though, retrospectively, this was naiive, since my loyalty to my chefs has not been reciprocated.

Moving on from here, I believe that the most important thing for a restaurant is to maintain its integrity - to be honest to its customers, not charge too much, try and do the best you can - sometimes one has wobbles, but if you can learn from mistakes, and if you are honest - this is the most important thing. In terms of Lola's future, I still want Lola's to be known as a restaurant which serves great food, has friendly staff, has an interesting and eclectic wine list, and is a really good neighbourhood restaurant. To this end I have appointed a young chef who is keen to prove himself, who wants to establish and maintain consistency, whose head isn't going to swell the moment he sees his picture in Hello magazine, and who is just going to put his head down and understand that cooking isn't about massaging your own ego by putting on the menu whatever the hell you want, it is about what the customer wants.

[Winot]

Morfudd,

I will e-mail you about my meal when I get a chance. I for one appreciate your receptiveness to criticism and desire to learn from experience -- this bodes well for Lola's future and I wish you all the best with that.

Winot

[Andy Lynes]

Morfudd, thanks for taking the time to post and for your candour, a rare glimpse into the real life of a London restaurateur. Of course, if any of the chefs in question want to give their side of the story, be our guest...(don't hold your breath people).

[Morfudd]

Thank you Wilmot, and please do e mail me when you have a chance, and thank you Andy for your response - I had hoped that after eight years of running Lola's we would be experienced and consistent enough to get things right most of the time

and so it saddens me when we dont. However, I would much rather be told if something is wrong (even though it hurts!) It at least gives us the opportunity to address matters, and there is nothing worse than spending hard earned money and feeling like you have wasted it.

I have recently appointed a new operations director for Lola's who I hope will bring standards back into line and who will establish consistency in the restaurant. I have decided to take a bit of time off in order to go and do a stage in the Rhone so that I can learn how to make wine, and really get 'down and dirty' in the vineyards and learn as much as possible from the whole experience. Sometimes, in this business, I think we simply just dont know enought about the product that we sell - restaurateurs, sommeliers and chefs are the last in the line in the chain between the growing/rearing of something and its consumption by the customers - we are almost too removed from the starting point, so I think it will be a good experience to get involved in the 'roots'.

[spatchcock]

There's a new place called OttoLenghi that looks promising. They are an off shoot of a Notting Hill Lebanese place. Set up is a lot like Carluccio's - food shop in front, restaurant on back.

They have just opened there doors, and are only open for breakfast and lunch. Supper service to start next week.

Food and Menu in the window looked like very tasty.

They are on upper Upper Street - not too far past Almeida.

[Spam]

There's a new place called OttoLenghi that looks promising. They are an off shoot of a Notting Hill Lebanese place.

Ottolenghi in W11 is not Lebanese - its menu is sort of metro-trat'. It is also not alot like Carluccios either I dont think. You could go to OL and buy a delicious lunch to take away or eat at the communal table at the back of the room. In Carluccios you would have to make do with a tomato and a bag of coffee beans. I am glad that they have opened a second site - what they do, they do very well.

[dallardice]

There's a new place called OttoLenghi that looks promising.

Had a very nice piece of goats cheese, roasted pepper and cherry tomato quiche from there for lunch yesterday, takeawy. The menu looks rather eclectic, lots of salads, and it's not especially cheap, but looks like a useful addition.

Don't know about Carluccio's where Spam is, but in the Islington one you could get cold meats, cheese, pastries and bread (including some rather delish fruit tarts). Too early to judge, but for me I suspect Ottolenghi might have the upper hand for variety and innovation.

[Spam]

Don't know about Carluccio's where Spam is, but in the Islington one you could get cold meats, cheese, pastries and bread (including some rather delish fruit tarts).

Umm. Carluccio's Fulham Rd is very sparsly decorated with goodies, but I will take your word for it.

[kitwilliams]

There's a new place called OttoLenghi that looks promising.

←

Yotan Ottolenghi (chef/owner) has a fabulous place -- I ate at the Notting Hill locale earlier this year. Stunning food set off beautifully by the decor. Yotan is a talented man with wonderful vision of his own and I give him all the credit in the world, but if people are going to compare him with others, it should be pointed out that his work has been influenced by his years working for Gail Stevens at Baker & Spice. (I must divulge that both he and Gail Stevens are friends of mine and I hope everyone frequents both of their establishments!)

[Hallie]

Yotan Ottolenghi (chef/owner) has a fabulous place -- I ate at the Notting Hill locale earlier this year.  Stunning food set off beautifully by the decor.  Yotan is a talented man with wonderful vision of his own and I give him all the credit in the world, but if people are going to compare him with others, it should be pointed out that his work has been influenced by his years working for Gail Stevens at Baker & Spice.  (I must divulge that both he and Gail Stevens are friends of mine and I hope everyone frequents both of their establishments!)

←

Well, tell him that he seems to have found a winning formula for Islington - any hope of opening one in Muswell Hill (N10)? I'm desperate here.

But seriously - had lunch there last month on a Saturday and was very impressed with the food. For several weeks before venturing in my husband and I used to pass it by as we drove down Upper Street and gauf-faw with laughter at its pretentious exterior (we dubbed it Le Palais de Wank - but you don't need to tell your friend that) . To say that it looks rather self-conscious from the outside is an understatement - rather frightening to those of us mere mortals who don't use botox or have live-in nannies. Curiousity got the better of us and after reading the menu we had to try it.

The only way I could describe it is that its rather like an eat-in deli with a difference. I had a selection of what they called salads - this was more like an array of different vegetable dishes that could each stand on their own as main courses. Roast butternut squash with tahini and some sort of spiced, baked cauliflower dish were superb and came in very generous portion sizes. The desserts were seriously seductive, brownies that oozed molten chocolate, and massive merangues. I can't wait to go back.

[Suzi Edwards]

But seriously - had lunch there last month on a Saturday and was very impressed with the food.  For several weeks before venturing in my husband and I used to pass it by as we drove down Upper Street and gauf-faw with laughter at its pretentious exterior (we dubbed it Le Palais de Wank - but you don't need to tell your friend that) .  To say that it looks rather self-conscious from the outside is an understatement - rather frightening to those of us mere mortals who don't use botox or have live-in nannies.  Curiousity got the better of us and after reading the menu we had to try it.

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This has become my local, but Hallie, I think you might be being a bit mean. From memory, outside has two plate glass windows, one on the left, one of the right, the left one always has a HUGE pile of meringues and lots of pastry type things and the right has the salads and some bread on display? The facade is painted white and there's a sign that says "Ottolenghi" in red? I don't have botox or a live in nanny and it just looks like a deli to me.

The salads can be a bit hit and miss (especially on a saturday when they seem to get very busy) but highlights for me hav ebeen butternut squash one that Hallie tried and an asparagus, chilli and samphire one. Lowlight has to be the fried egss with polenta and mushroom for breakfast. It's served with a beef reduction sauce that should have left with the arc. That said, other breakfast dishes like frittata looked good and I love having toasters, butter and jam on the table so you can pretend you're in your own home and you just happen to have a 20 foot long dining table.

Salads can get very, very expensive if you're taking out. It's not the same price as when you eat in. Which is a shame.

[Hallie]

This has become my local, but Hallie, I think you might be being a bit mean. From memory, outside has two plate glass windows, one on the left, one of the right, the left one always has a HUGE pile of meringues and lots of pastry type things and the right has the salads and some bread on display? The facade is painted white and there's a sign that says "Ottolenghi" in red? I don't have botox or a live in nanny and it just looks like a deli to me.

←

Ah well, you know me Suzi - I love a bit of hyperbole!

Anyway, driving quickly down Upper Street it just looks like a streak of white...

[Suzi Edwards]

Me too. I ADORE hyperbole.

Just noticed that Rodizio Rico (they have a place in Kensington, I think) is opening soon just by the Screen on the Green.

There's also a new Indian just opened by Scholl that looks like it might do a lot of Goan/South Indian food. Will try and get there soon.

[endless autumn]

Just noticed that Rodizio Rico (they have a place in Kensington, I think) is opening soon just by the Screen on the Green.

They are a mean-spirited bunch there (it's in Notting Hill). They only serve you a teensy bit of picanha (the best bit: rump cap) and try to fill you with chicken wings and sausages. The barbecue isn't smoky enough and the rice/ beans are poor. Salads are to be avoided. Caipirinhas are premixed, warm and poured over ice.

When I last went, they tried to rush us out, which is the opposite of what a rodizio should be. Eventually, they just stopped bringing food. They claimed the picanha had run out.

Also, the waiters are colorados (Internacional supporters); I am from the super raca gremista and so don't take kindly to them.

[dallardice]

There's also a new Indian just opened by Scholl that looks like it might do a lot of Goan/South Indian food. Will try and get there soon.

←

Tried Gufaa (the new Indian) last week. Was a bit disappointed in that the food wasn't as interesting when it arrived as it sounded on the menu. Having said that, it was a clear step up from the Parveen/Rajmoni quality, and will probably become our Indian of choice for those "fancy a curry" nights. Same owners as the "Bengal" chain eg Bengal Lancer etc.

A busy time for Islington restaurants - Tuk Tuk has gone (never found it that impressive, I expect Thai Square did for it, although I prefer the Rabieng up opposite Ottolenghi, although it's still not great) and is going to be replaced by a Fine Burger Company.

Our sole eat-in experience at Ottolenghi so far we found very impressive, although the long communal tables are something of a mixed blessing, given the long and graphic descriptions of how the three next door lost their virginities.

[Suzi Edwards]

There have been a few more changes in Islington. Tried Gufaa a few weeks ago, went for the thali on a Sunday afternoon but I found little to make me ever want to go back. Noticed that the vegetarian Indian place on St John Street has been replaced with "Vojan - contempory Indian food" and has had a complete refit but if the delivery menu that plopped through my door is anything to go by it's little more than the standard CTM and pappadoms.

I still can't believe that Tuk Tuk has closed and that the Vietnamese three doors up is still trading. I was once served a plate of cat food in there and vowed never to return. Tuk Tuk was OK, if only because they served a mean Laab.

"Nicks" on Upper Street has become "The Green" and they are currently offering either 10% off or a free glass of prosecco while they bed in. I thought the menu looked very thin, but then realised that most of the dishes can be served either as a starter or a main (small or large plate might more in the their spirit). I had thought it was going to be a new British type of place when I saw that "faggots with gravy" was the first item on the menu, but then it seemed to descend into the realm of the "Caesar Salad" I will try it out though.

The brazillian place doesn't seem to have opened yet but Flamin' Noras has. Flamin Noras is such a place of terribleness that I felt it deserved a thread to itself

Just finally, the Gill Wing empire continues to expand with a new chocolate shop where the flower shop used to be. I had a sneeky peek and it looked quite nice but the girl I chatted with hadn't been given her crib sheet yet and suggested I pop back to find out who the choclatiers on offer are.

[dallardice]

Gill Wing's chocolate shop might, just might, replace the demise of Dugan's, a wonderful old-fashioned sweet shop which has been replaced by "Soi 5", a trendy sweet shop "dedicated to the best sweets of the world" which looks dismal (and half empty).

'The Green' is described wincingly as a 'gaystropub' for gay people and their friends (hence the ironic faggots on the menu). I think it's a better use of space than Nick's used to be but haven't eaten there yet.

Can't weep at the demise of Tuk Tuk but was disappointed in our one visit to date to the Fine Burger Company which replaced it - we went there one Sunday evening about 9.30 and the staff were desperate to get home. Burgers were greasy and tasteless and definitely didn't deserve the definition Fine.

Ottolenghi seems to be going from strength to strength and both communal tables are now availbable for booking but they have added bar seating for drop-ins.

Our current tips for next closures in Upper St are the San Miguel tapas bar, latest incumbent of the Granita site, and Mao's Diner, the revamped Chinese two doors down from local favourite Young's. There are now three tapas bars in Islington and they're all rubbish.. worst was La Tasca (before we realised it was a chain) where we ordered Pollo al Ajillo and complained about the lack of garlic. We were told most of their customers didn't like garlic so they tended not to include it...