Ireland Help !

[gibier123]

I need serious guidance for great meals on my trip in two weeks. Anything from Michelin stars to gastro pubs. I'll be in Dublin then the Atlantic coast from Sligo to Cork over 7 days. Thanks

[Chev]

hi gibier

can only help you with some dublin great eats:-

the mermaid cafe and guru, both on dame street, and fitzers restaurant on dawson street are fantastic places to drop in for lunch- the mermaid cafe has especially good food with a good buzz in a . fitzers also does great dinners.

if you are on a lookout for a very good steakhouse, shanahans at st stephen's green will be your thing or go to elephant & castle along temple bar for good gastropub grub.

dublin has a great drink culture so drop in at a pub and chat up the locals too.

have a great trip and let us now about the meals you enjoyed!

[Suzi Edwards]

Hey there, welcome to Egullet!

We're a bit thin on Ireland advice at the moment. Here's a link to the last significant thread about Ireland that contains some other web resources

Maybe when you get back you can tell us where was good?

I always tell people about the Chili Club, a tiny Thai place, but it is YEARS since i ate there...

[fisherman]

the yumi yuki club in cork serves amazing sushi and other japanese food, its a couple of years ago since i've been but its among the best sushi i've eaten.

the ivory tower in cork is also supposed to be good, i didnt get to eat there as my colleagues i was travelling with baulked at the price (its not that expensive they were just on limited expense accounts!! so dont let that put you off) but what i remember of the menu was very interesting.

[tomweir]

Sligo... near me then!

Locally Montmartre in the Market Yard, good French restaurant in the town. Excellent value early bird (order by seven) which is our favourite "Oh lets eat out" last minute decision. But good food the decor is okay, a bit 'neat bistro' if you know what I mean.

Donaghy's, near the train station, a restaurant with pub. Italian style, I haven't been but I have heard very good things about the NY trained chef.

The Atrium cafe in the Model Arts Centre, locally sourced ingredients for a nice lunch, bruchetta with roasted veg and goats cheese, quiches with mixed leaves. That kind of thing. They have a lot of free events also.

Poppadom on O'Connell Street. Well above the average Indian with other Asian fused in. The interior is surprising, nice smooth decor with Sinatra in the background. Don't miss their ragda patties...

We did have at one point , and yes very surprisingly, the best pizza restaurant in the world... but it closed. Closed five years ago but the town is still in shock.

Best latte - Bar Bazaar.

Two great delis, Cosgroves and Kate's Kitchen.

Best old bar - Hargadon's Lots of snugs, okay chowder at lunch.

And that's about it

Out of town and both on the pricier end.

Authentic regional restaurant, Cuisto Perigord in Dromahaire.

And Cromleach Lodge, topflight grub from self-taught chef, odd decor. www.cromleach

Friends of mine recommended Temple House near Boyle, a crumbling pile which does dinner and bed and is pretty fabulous apparently. You dine with the family and stay.

----

Just came back from Galway - Kirwan's Lane is good restaurant in the centre of town.

Buy a Bridgestone Guide as recommended on the other thread.

You might want to check out the slightly alarmingly named www.forkncork.com, it's an adjunt to Ireland's Food and Wine magazine.

More to follow...

[magnolia]

I can also help with Dublin only...just got back from a weekend there, and had a great time. We stayed at the Merrion, and though we didn't eat in their (highly recommended French) restaurant, we did have tea and it was very cushy and cozy. Even saw Harrison Ford and the actress better known as Ali McBeal so it has celebrity endorsement. There's also an excellent spa which I am sure you can use even if you aren't staying there.

I second the rec. for Mermaid Cafe (see http://www.mermaid.ie/) We had a great sunday brunch which included their rendition of kedgeree, great sourdough pancakes, and homemade cranberry meringue ice cream. I'd suggest booking because it got really packed. A great lazy afternoon would include brunch there, followed by a film at the nearby Irish Film Centre.

Dinners: Frere Jacques, a well known French bistro which I really enjoyed...and Thornton's, which I believe has two macarons- the food was out of this world, however, very pricey for Dublin (more like Paris/London prices).

An excellent wine bar with delicious food (the owner comes from a farming family and sources his products accordingly) is Ely's, which offers 80+ wines by the glass at any given time. 22 Ely Place, phone:676 8986 - plus they have continuous service so a great mid-afternoon stop. However I believe they are closing in August for renovations so best to check exact dates.

For takeaway (or souvenirs ) , try Sheridan's cheese shop - one of the best I've ever encountered - anywhere - the people are very enthusiastic, knowledgable and have the largest selection of irish cheeses I've seen. We spent about 1/2 hour alone tasting and choosing cheese. Also, Avoca handweavers has a food hall downstairs with the most amazing bread - we bought a mixed seed brown bread that must weigh over 1kg (at least it felt like it as hand luggage!) and is the most amazing, complex and long-lasting loaf - we're still eating it eight days hence.

There's a very small outdoor food market at Temple Bar - I can't recall if it's open both Saturdays and Sundays or just one - best to ask. It's just behind Dame Street (where Mermaid Cafe and Frere Jacques are) It has a bout 10-15 stalls, a few of which are prepared foods, including an outstanding smoked salmon (and other fish) stall - you'll see the queue for its fishcakes.

And a very nice, small wine shop - should you be invited to someone's house or just feel like seeing a different part of town - is Terroirs, in a leafy neighbourhood. Good selection, very knowledgable and chatty owners. It's a bit more idiosyncratic than the better known, very historic and atmospheric Mitchell & Sons, also worth a look for its much larger but more standard selection, which includes a lot of spirits too. Terroirs is at 103 Morehamton Road, Donnybrook 667 1311.

A word bout the bridgestone guide (mentioned above) it was first published in 1999 (?) and although I found a more recent edition, which I assumed was an updated version - however the entries are - from a pretty good scan - exactly the same, word for word, as the 1999 edition - down to the the dishes recommended per entry. The only obvious change is that the prices in the later edition are in euro, but I don't have much confidence that phone numbers, new management or closings, or whatever, have been addressed, so best to check before going anywhere it lists.

A word on pubs -I don't care what smokers and traditionalists out there might say - now that there's no smoking in public, the pubs are better than ever. a real pleasure. I don't need a brown, choking haze to enhance my Joycean experience, thanks very much !

Have fun.

[tomweir]

Amen to all of that in Dublin... I too love the Mermaid and it's sidekick Gruel.

Sheridans have an even bigger cheese shop in Galway right by their organic market (saturdays only).

[Suzi Edwards]

there was an article in the local (at least to me at the moment) chicago paper about pubs losing business in dublin because of the smoking ban. it centered on one pub that had defied the ban what with takings being down by two thirds, and they were consequently doing a roaring business again. they now risk a huge fine and being closed down.

i loved that the article made reference to an underground smokers caucus that started texting and calling each other as soon as the ashtrays were out.

[mojito]

If you get over by Galway, east on the N6 to Oranmore, there's a place I went to a few years back. It's called Paddy Burke's, and I remember enjoying the food/atmosphere very much. Have fun!

[MobyP]

Mojito - welcome to eGullet.

[mojito]

thanks MobyP

[kerriar]

From a recent visit to Ireland, Dublin restaurants can be expensive when compared to many continental cities, particularly in the mid range. Mermaid Café and Frère Jacques are dependable. The former has a contemporary Italian/Med approach which works particularly well with good fish and the menu, which changes from day to day, is based around well sourced local supplies. Jacques is about 25 metres away on Dame Street and the style is considerably more formal – it achieves what most would expect from a correctly run professional French restaurant anywhere in the world. Nearby in the Clarence Hotel is the Tea Room – food is good, professional and sometimes original although equally the overall result does not always deliver on high aspirations. For good Italian food and wine with athmosphere, try the Unicorn in Merrion Row (tel. 01.6624757) which is one of the few places in Dublin where you can eat outdoors on the odd days that the weather permits.

For lunch only, Caviston's in Glasthule is about 8 km south of the centre. It is small and serves only fish but worth the trip (about €15 by taxi or else take the DART train). Tables are much sought after so booking is essential. For details see www.cavistons.com

The Franco/Irish couple who run Terroirs are first class wine merchants whilst Sheridans (also in Galway) carry an amazing range of Irish and European cheeses. They also stock other food products and the vacuum packed confit de canard which is made in Cork (I've forgotten the producer's name) is beyond reproach.

The best restaurant in Ireland (dangerous statement which should be taken as a totally personal choice) has to be John and Ellmary Desmond's place on Heir Island in West Cork. Details can be found at http://homepage.tinet.ie/~heir/. Reservations are at times very difficult and the place is almost impossible to reach – it's on an island with a primitive ferry system. John is a self effacing genius (he's even dropped the international press reviews from the minimalist website) whose style combines brilliant use of local fresh ingredients prepared with a flair which reflects his classical training. There is one sitting per night, a no choice menu and a limited wine list – but if you can get there, you will not be disappointed.

[Blondie]

The best restaurant in Ireland (dangerous statement which should be taken as a totally personal choice) has to be John and Ellmary Desmond's place on Heir Island in West Cork. Details can be found at http://homepage.tinet.ie/~heir/. Reservations are at times very difficult and the place is almost impossible to reach – it's on an island with a primitive ferry system. John is a self effacing genius (he's even dropped the international press reviews from the minimalist website) whose style combines brilliant use of local fresh ingredients prepared with a flair which reflects his classical training. There is one sitting per night, a no choice menu and a limited wine list – but if you can get there, you will not be disappointed.

Good recommendations, kerriar. A belated welcome to eGullet

I continue to kick myself for not making it to John Desmond's place when I was living mere miles away for a couple of years If he's still doing the cookery courses I'm going to try and make it next spring/summer.

[Suzi Edwards]

I just found this small mention of a Dublin place on The Independent's website which I thought I would share with you:

Mint, 47 Ranelagh, Dublin, tel: 00 353 (0)1 497 8655

This cosy (read small) dining-room on Ranelagh's trendy dining strip in the middle of Dublin opened late last year with some real skill in the kitchen. It shows in clever modern dishes such as sea bream with wild mushroom foam, confit chicken and ham hock terrine and a ballotine of fresh and smoked salmon.

(review by Terry Durack as part of a round up of restaurants)

[paulbrussel]

Well, I am having lunch once and a while in Dublin (last time a couple of weeks ago), only to visit the excellent restaurant of Thornton's (two Michelin stars, considerd to be one of the 50 best restaurants in the world): modern cuisine, excellent wine list, good sommelier, good staff in general (mostly from France).

Last meal:

Warm White Asparagus with truffle Hollandaise – Green Asparagus Bavarois

Fillet of Brill with Beetrootpuree – Lime Oil

Terrine of Forest Mushrooms with Truffle

Braised Pigs Head with Shallot Puree, Thyme Sauce

Sauteed Scallop with Prawn Bisque and Sabayon

Roast Grouse with Foie Gras Terrine, Roast Salsify and Pistachio – Crab Apple, Savoy Cabbage, Calvados Sauce

Sea Urchin with Sea Urchin Sauce – Truffle Cream

[The Little Blue House]

Perfect timing on this thread... I just found myself in Dublin for 9 days and I didn't have any time to plan before arriving yesterday. I will absolutely look at some of these places.

Thanks!

[Andy Lynes]

I can't remember where I read it now, but Chapter One restaurant got the thumbs up recently. These are some of the other threads about Dublin on eGullet:

Thorntons

Patrick Guildbaud

L'ecrivain

The Tea Room

Casual dining

[jackal10]

Ballymaloe

[elicious]

I am traveling to Ireland for the first time and my boyfriend's birthday falls while we are there. I am looking for a nice, upscale restaurant in either Dublin or Galway. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated (as would recommendations for cheaper restaurants as well).

[postcode]

I am traveling to Ireland for the first time and my boyfriend's birthday falls while we are there. I am looking for a nice, upscale restaurant in either Dublin or Galway. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated (as would recommendations for cheaper restaurants as well).

←

Can't comment on Galway, as I've never been, but for 'upscale' in Dublin, there really are only two that spring to mind.my personal preference and here, which I've never tried. They're both two star Michelin. One closing note - Dublin's an expensive city, so bring loadsa wonga and enjoy the craic!

[bethesdabakers]

Had a wonderful birthday lunch at the Mermaid Cafe a couple of weeks ago - will definitely be going back. It's almost true to say that it's our nearest decent restaurant (live near Bangor, Gwynedd).

The bread was excellent too - a rare state of affairs even in good restaurants. Asked if they made their own bread our serveur(se) said "All the food is home made and the waiters' fresh."

What more could you ask for.

Best wishes,

Mick

[Corinna Dunne]

Here's the local scoop on high end restaurants in Dublin:

Chapter One (+ 353 1 873 2255), my top choice.

This wonderful restaurant doesn't have a star, but that doesn't stop it being booked up for weeks in advance. This is contemporary Irish cooking at its best, with wonderfully sourced ingredients. I was there about 2 months ago, and cannot remember exactly what I had, apart from their charcuterie starter (served from a trolley)... which in itself is reason enough to go there. There was also a wonderful trio of creme brule. which was delicious, light and restrained. The front of house team are great and this is a genuinely welcoming, unstuffy restaurant.

A lesser known fact is that Chapter One also does an extremely reasonable fixed price pre-theatre menu which is limited to 3 or 4 choices per course. There is a charming little theatre, The Gate, nearby and a member of staff will even collect your tickets for you from the box office while you dine. This earlier sitting is managed wonderfully and you don't get the sense that you are being rushed.

L'Ecrivain (+353 1 661 1919), is another good restaurant excelling in contemporary Irish cooking, but a little bit more expensive. Thornton's (+353 1 478 7008) and Guilbaud's (+353 1 676 4192) are the most expensive, and while I haven't been at either of them for some time, I think it is fair to say that their influences have more of a French slant and they are definitely more formal. As far as I know, Guilbaud's still does a reasonable lunch menu from Tues - Fri, which might be worth checking out, but expect plently of business people. Thornton's is cheaper at lunch too as far as I remember.

The Tea Room (+353 1 407 0800), in the Clarence Hotel (owned by Bono and Edge of U2) is probably the nicest upscale restautant for a reasonably priced lunch As it is in Temple Bar, away from the main business hub, it tends to attract fewer business people than many of the others. It is an utterly beautiful room, so try your luck and ask for a table by the window when you are booking (although I think they might be all for 4 people). It's worth noting that this is the only upscale restaurant open on a Monday night. I was last there about 10 months ago for dinner and I had a mixed experience. We had the tasting menu, which started out well and from what I recall, ended with a bit of a whimper. We also gave the sommelier free rein to select for us. I thought I had given him a reasonable indication of our price range (more Chablis than Chassagne Montrachet), but we ended up running up a wine bill of about Euro 160 (some great wines by the glass though).

Frere Jacques (+353 1 679 4555), whilst more towards the middle end of the scale, is a big favourite of mine. It is the only typical old school French restaurant in Dublin and offers great value on its fixed price dinner menu (Euro 35 plus 15% service) although I invariably go a la carte. The fish is excellent, (which isn't as usual as you'd expect in Dublin) and you can select your own lobster from the tank. They also have a truly great cheese board - mainly French and Irish cheeses - and they are extremely generous with the amount they serve. Of particular note is their well priced wine list, and you are in safe hands if you leave the selection to them.

The Unicorn (+353 1 662 4757) is the place to go if you put atmosphere at the top of your list. This is the buzziest place in town. It's a good space, with tables outside when it's any way mild, but if you are directed to the smaller area to the left when it's very busy, beware, as this is pure Siberia. The food is Italian, a bit inconsistent in quality and relatively expensive for what it is. The wine list has got quite expensive too, if I remember correctly. Saturday lunch however is particularly good, with a great weekend atmosphere and delicious anti pasta.

Two restaurants I haven't been to are Halo (+353 1 887 2421) which is mainly fusion (not my thing), and Mint (+353 1 497 8655) which is the first of the new gastronomy type restaurants in Dublin. I'm off to Barcelona soon, so intend to get a benchmark for this type of food before giving it a go.

[Grub]

I lived in Dublin for six months, and found this place to be the best bet --

The Lord Edward. It is really a pub, on the two first floors, but the third floor holds what is claimed to be the oldest seafood restaurant in Dublin. I don't know if that's true, but I do know that their speciality -- sole -- is unbelievable. I had the plain sole-on-the-bone the first time, and wanted to order the same again, the next time I went there, because it was utterly fantastic, but I forced myself to order a different kind of sole... Next time, I wanted to order THAT dish again, but managed to order a different dish -- sole, again... And so, I had four different dishes of sole, and they were all absolutely fantastic. I don't think too many restaurants could pull that off.

Impossible to decide on a favorite, but I'd make it a split decision between the plain on-the-bone, and the sole "stuffed" (rolled around) some smoked salmon. Very, very, very highly recommended.

[Corinna Dunne]

-

the mermaid cafe and guru, both on dame street, and fitzers restaurant on dawson street are fantastic places to drop in for lunch- the mermaid cafe has especially good food with a good buzz in a . fitzers also does great dinners.

if you are on a lookout for a very good steakhouse, shanahans at st stephen's green will be your thing or go to elephant & castle along temple bar for good gastropub grub.

I would not recommend Fitzers at all. I was there about 5 months ago and I was shocked at how lazy, uninspired and sloppy their food has become. This is a restaurant that is definitely past its sell by date.

Regarding Shanahans, this is much more than a steak house. Only venture here if you have very deep pockets indeed. It is one of the most expensive restaurants in Dublin. There is some great meat in Ireland and Shanahans certainly has it, and cooks it wonderfully. Personally, when I'm paying a lot of money for a meal, I prefer it to be more than a simple sourcing/cooking excercise. If you are interested in upscale restaurants, I've posted some short reviews on the 'Help Ireland' thread.

Elephant & Castle in Temple Bar is great for casual dining. They only take reservations for large numbers, so drop in and get your name on the list if you want a table. Then all you have to do is pop across the road to the pub, and one of the staff will come over to tell you when your table is ready. We call it 'an Irish solution to an Irish problem'! The buffalo chicken wings are legendary and a simply must have. This is also a great spot for brunch at the weekend with plenty of newspapers to browse through as you tenderly nurse your well earned hangover. Also good for brunch are The Mermaid and Odessa.

[silverbrow]

Does anyone know anything about Peploes in Dublin? I'm going there next week and can't find much about it on the web.