Tsawwassen & Gulf Islands

[Bruce Burger]

In July our family will drive up from our home in Seattle to the Gulf Islands for the first time. Two questions:

1) Where should we have an early dinner before our ferry leaves from Tsawwassen? If time allows, we'll go to Top Gun in Richmond, which we love. But if traffic prevents this, what's good in Tsawwassen? On the web I see sushi, Chinese, and Indian places -- any recommendations?

2) Any dining tips for Mayne, Pender, or Saltspring Islands? We'll be with our kids (ages 5 & 6), so we don't want any place that's elegant in a hush-hush way, but we can handle most nice restaurants. I realize the options are limited on the first two of these islands, but I'd still appreciate any advice.

Thanks!

Bruce

[Redhead]

Make a ferry reservation! I wouldn't risk stopping for a bite in Tsawwassen without one. And you'll still need to be through the payment booths and parked in the line-up at least 30 minutes prior to sailing. Details on the BC Ferries website.

I think there is supposed to be some beach concession in Tsawassen or White Rock that's really good -- others have posted about it here last summer. That would be a good choice if the weather is right, given that you're travelling en famille. Others on this board are sure to have suggestions.

On Mayne Island, there's the dining room at the Oceanwood B&B, but since the B&B is adult-only, I wonder if that applies to the restaurant, too? The food was terrific when I was there, but it was a fairly quiet, upscale room. There's a casual burger and fish 'n' chips place beside the dock where the float planes land -- I think it has "Spring" in the name? We've had some decent lunches there, sitting on the deck, and I've seen lots of kids there.

I believe Pender Isl. has a new B&B -- Poet's Cove? Might be worth checking out.

Welcome to B.C. -- we love your U.S. greenbacks here!

[Keith Talent]

There was a full page ad for Poets Cove on the back page of the review section in yesterdays Globe & Mail, if anyone wants to sort through their blue box. Looks very nice, opening special $547 (+/-?), two people, two nights, breakfasts and $50 credit towards dinner.

Only one question, I could figure out my own evening entertainment, but what the hell do you do on Pender all day?

[stovetop]

Pender Island

(1) Browning Harbour

(2) Bedwell Harbour

Poets Cove

Bedwell Harbour Island Resort & Marina

The Inn on Pender Island

Tel : 1-250-629-3353

Betty's B&B

4711 Buccaneer Rd.

Pender Isl.

Tel: (250) 629-6599

Prior Centennial Prov. Park

North Pender Isl.

Tel: (250) 391-2300

Fax: (250) 478-9211

Copper's Landing

5734 Canal Rd.

Pender Isl.

Tel: (250) 629-6133

Fax: (250) 629-3649

Galiano Island

Galiano Inn

http://www.galianoinn.com/

Atrevida Restaurant at galiano inn

B&B

High Bluffs Guest House

170 Bluff Rd.

Galiano Island

Tel: (250) 539-5779

---------

Orca View B&B

20675 Porlier Pass Rd.

Galiano Island

Tel: (250) 539-3051

Hummingbird Pub

47 Sturdies Bay Rd.

Galiano Isl.

Tel: (250) 539-5472

http://galiano.gulfislands.com/hummingbirdpub/

Montague Harbour Marine Park

Located at the northwest end of Montague Harbour is the oldest marine park in British Columbia. Established in 1959, Montague Harbour Marine Park is one of the most popular with Gulf Island's boaters.

http://www.montagueharbour.com/

The park features white shell beaches, 35 mooring buoys, and boat launching ramp, a dock for dinghies and other small boats. There are campsites for tents and RVs. Reservations may be made by calling 1-250-689-9025.

RESORTS & INNS

Sutil Lodge

637 Southwind Rd.

Galiano Island

Tel: (250) 539-539-2930

Cain Beach Cottage

Rates starting from $ 80 a night for 2 persons

Galiano Island, B.C

http://www.islandnet.com/~galiano/

Edited June 22, 2004 by stovetop (log)

[stovetop]

Galiano Inn

Atrevida restaurant

menu

mayne island organic greens

heirloom tomatoes, blackberry

champagne vinaigrette

-8

carrot ginger bisque

basil oil & fresh chickweed

-7

beet cured wild salmon

petite greens, heirloom tomatoes

& orange horseradish dressing

-10

red wine poached mission figs & danish blue cheese

plum purée & toast points plum purée & toast points

-11

marcella salt spring island goat cheese

on warm cedar plank,

mango chutney & crostini

-14

galiano island steamed scallops

in white wine & bruschetta

-9

chef Nicholas Geran

sandalwood smoked spring salmon

saffron rice, thai coconut curry

cream & parsley oil

-24

canadian aaa tenderloin

herb roasted baby potatoes &

rosemary infused reduction

-27

quinoa, shiitake & pine nut stuffed heirloom tomatoes

balsamic port glaze and seasonal

vegetables

-18

fresh herbs fresh herbs panko crusted halibut panko crusted halibut

lavender sweet pea mash & lemon

jalapeño beurre blanc

-23

grilled australian double lamb chops

sharp cheddar risotto & mint infused reduction

-28

sun dried tomato & lemon pesto shrimp penne

basil oil crostini

-18

Edited June 22, 2004 by stovetop (log)

[Daddy-A]

Make a ferry reservation!

I'll second that! I'd even say that reservations are mandatory if you're travelling to the Gulf Islands in July. Unless of course you want to spend 24 hours in the parking lot with a 5 & 6 year old. Heres the link for BC Ferries Souther Gulf Island routes. You can either sail direct, or via Schwartz Bay. PM me if the BC Ferries link doesn't help.

You are in for an amazing vacation ... my family spent 10 days on Mayne last summer, and I was on Saltspring this spring for work. Pender is on our list for next year, so I won't be much help there.

Here are some links that can get you started:

Mayne Island Chamber of Commerce

GulfIslands.com (which really deals mostly with Saltspring)

Fist things first ... both Mayne & Saltspring have farmers' markets on Saturday. Mayne's is in Miners Bay at the Community Hall ... kind small and folksy, but a great place to stock up on fruits & veggies for your non-restaurant meals. Saltspring's market is legendary ... full of hippy-types and gourmet foodies, craftspeople and arborists (say hi to Raj!). It's in Ganges in the main park in town ... you won't miss it.

Restaurants on Mayne are a bit of a challenge ... there are a couple good little bakery/bistro type places in Miner's Bay. My son still raves about the calzone he got at the Miner's Bay Cafe. He's 10 and likes peanut butter on his hot dogs, so the rec might be better for your kids than you

The Mayne Inn on Bennet Bay has a great deck, serves burgers & such, but also has a pretty decent seafood menu for a "motel" type restuarant. I had friends that used to boat over from Crescent Beach just for the crab quesadillas. The beers are cold, the view is great, and the kids can go play in the playground while the grown-ups relax. They also have a small art gallery featuring this really cool ceramic sculptor.

A couple of suggestions for Mayne ... check with the community centre for the times they hold their putting tournaments. The tounament costs a buck or two, and even gives you a chance to win some wine or canning from the locals. My kid's & I really enjoyed it. It's over by Dinner Bay & the Japanese Gardens (also worth a visit ... pays respect to the Japanese farmers from the island who were interned during WWII).

Rent kayaks from the Blue Vista. Doug & Leslie are great (great resort to stay at too) and offer excusions for beginners. There are other kayak places on the island, but we liked these guys the best.

Saltspring Island ... where to begin??? The best restaurant I ate at was House Piccolo. Perhaps a little too high-end for the young'uns, but if you can swing it you won't regret it. The lamb alone was worth the price of admission.

The other place I enjoyed was The Oystercatcher ... right down on the waterfront in Ganges. Good selection of seafood (great fresh sheet ... up to 8 different kinds of oysters I think)and local fair ... decent wine list.

My other jewel on Saltspring is The Mornigside Cafe. You'll find it on Morningside Street(?) in Fulford Harbour (where the Victoria ferry comes in). Its an organic bakery that also specializes in non-wheat baking. But IMO their grilled sandwiches are the reason to go. Their Veggie-burger is one of the greatest things I have eaten EVER.

Breakfasts in Ganges ... try The Treehouse, Barb's Buns, and this little Pie Shop across from Moby's Pub (sorry, can't remember the name).

Other things not to miss ... the two wineries on the Island - Gary Oaks Vineyards, And Saltspring Island Vineyards. They are right beside each other on the Fulford-Ganges road. So have a Veggie Burger in Fulford, and stock up on wine all in the same day!

Phew! Have fun! I am SOOOOO jealous.

DA

[Mooshmouse]

Our family has a vacation property on Salt Spring, so we've had an opportunity to eat at quite a few of the island's dining establishments. In fact, we'll be on the Island ourselves for 11 days in July and are looking foward to trying out a couple of new restaurants. Additionally, we have a 3-year-old son, so all the restaurants we frequent have to be kid-friendly!

For a nice lunch or dinner where people won't look down their noses at the little ones, I second Daddy-A's recommendation of the Oystercatcher. There's La Cucina e Terrazza on the boardwalk if you're up for Italian, and Bouzouki offers casual Greek fare. The Treehouse Cafe in the centre of Ganges is also a good bet for open-air dining... our son loves to eat at the picnic tables under the big tree. Fantastic pies and live entertainment every evening with a weekly Open Mike night for locals and tourists alike. My sister-in-law gave a very enthusiastic thumbs-up to the Raven Street Market Cafe in Fernwood; hence, we're chomping at the bit to sample some of the food from their wood-fired oven. And if you're in the mood for fish and chips or soup and sandwich in a different part of the island, try the Seaside Cafe in Vesuvius. You can sit on the deck and watch the eagles go fishing while the ferries come and go.

If you're looking for a great cup of coffee, head to the Salt Spring Roasting Company... skip the Moka House on the main drag which isn't nearly as good. Barb's Buns has great vegetarian lunch and brunch menus, not to mention yummy baked treats.

Not forgetting about the kids, they'll drool over the chocolates at Harlan's, and they won't let you walk past Miriam's without buying them an ice cream cone... or else stopping at West Of The Moon toy store just next door.

I've omitted the restaurant at Hastings House from my recommendations. Although it offers fantastic formal dining, it's probably a bit too stuffy for the kids' liking. And I'm with Redhead with the dining room at the Oceanwood B&B on Mayne Island... excellent food but likely adults-only.

Hope that helps. If I remember anything else, I'll post further. Enjoy the Islands!

[Daddy-A]

My sister-in-law gave a very enthusiastic thumbs-up to the Raven Street Market Cafe in Fernwood; hence, we're chomping at the bit to sample some of the food from their wood-fired oven.

We had the same rec's for The Raven ... in particular, their pizzas. I gotta tell yah, the pizza was average at best. I should qualify this by saying we were there on Good Friday, so perhaps they were short on ingredients ... but the crust was a pre-bought crappy frozen crust. The meals served at the neighbouring tables (I think someone had a boulliabaise) looked much more appetizing. Based on the rec's we received, I'll go again, but I won't be ordering any pizza

Barb's Buns has great vegetarian lunch and brunch menus, not to mention yummy baked treats

What I liked about this place was the number of locals who ate here. This was my favorite breakfast place.

DA

[barolo]

I'll second Barb's Buns. Wow lots of good advice on this thread for my future visits.

[Mooshmouse]

Make a ferry reservation! I wouldn't risk stopping for a bite in Tsawwassen without one. And you'll still need to be through the payment booths and parked in the line-up at least 30 minutes prior to sailing. Details on the BC Ferries website.

Here, here on the reservations. Summer travel through the Gulf Islands on any reasonable schedule is impossible without them. Make sure to be there a minimum of 40 minutes prior to sailing time. We once made the critical mistake of showing up 30 minutes before and were told that we'd have to sail standby. Needless to say, that put a severe crimp in our plans as the party we were travelling with made it onto the ferry and we didn't... and we had the keys to the cabin!

We had the same rec's for The Raven ... in particular, their pizzas. I gotta tell yah, the pizza was average at best. I should qualify this by saying we were there on Good Friday, so perhaps they were short on ingredients ... but the crust was a pre-bought crappy frozen crust. The meals served at the neighbouring tables (I think someone had a boulliabaise) looked much more appetizing. Based on the rec's we received, I'll go again, but I won't be ordering any pizza

Thanks for that heads-up Daddy-A. I'll report back with my findings later in July and will watch out for the pizza.

I did forget something. Whatever you do, make sure to pick up a dozen bagels from Gulf Island Bagel adjacent to the park square in downtown Ganges. If you're lucky, they'll have just pulled out a fresh batch from the oven. Our favourites are the cinnamon raisin and the onion, warm, straight out of the bag. You don't need any cream cheese to make these bagels taste good. Our son can polish off one whole one himself, and he always asks for seconds. Before coming back to Vancouver, we always make a point of buying a bag to bring home and freeze... I'm salivating just thinking about it!

The Saturday Market in the Park will definitely be a highlight of your visit. Lots to see and do for you and the kids. With any luck, the marimba ensemble or the teenaged jazz ensemble will be playing. For a dose of grease, help yourself to an elephant ear... deep-fried dough slathered with butter and honey or jam, or dusted with cinnamon and sugar. Homemade fruit popsicles for $2.00 in a variety of flavours will help keep the summer heat at bay. Be sure to hit the cheese and baked goods stalls set up at the south end of the market... plenty of yummy free samples. There's lots of organic produce and fabulous garlic from the Island's garlic farm. And, if you're there early enough, pick up a bottle or two of Noot's homemade Thai sauce. Our friends here on the mainland always ask us to raid her stall on their behalf.

Good Lord. Did I type that much? Sorry... 'nuff said. I just get really excited about the prospect of spending time on Salt Spring, and I'm sure that Daddy-A feels the same way.

[Mooshmouse]

My sister-in-law gave a very enthusiastic thumbs-up to the Raven Street Market Cafe in Fernwood; hence, we're chomping at the bit to sample some of the food from their wood-fired oven.

We had the same rec's for The Raven ... in particular, their pizzas. I gotta tell yah, the pizza was average at best. I should qualify this by saying we were there on Good Friday, so perhaps they were short on ingredients ... but the crust was a pre-bought crappy frozen crust. The meals served at the neighbouring tables (I think someone had a boulliabaise) looked much more appetizing. Based on the rec's we received, I'll go again, but I won't be ordering any pizza

Resurrecting this thread to report back on our meals at the Raven Street Market Cafe. In a word, meh. We gave it more than a fair shot: two visits in July and one visit in August. Though no pizza was ordered thanks to your review, we did manage to sample a smattering of their dishes between ourselves and our guests. The best menu item we tried was the clam and mussel bake in a white wine reduction with loads of garlic. Heavy on the salt but still palatable. All the other dishes were on the low side of average, so much so that nothing in particular really stands out. On one visit, two of us ordered grilled chicken sandwiches of some sort which ended up being undercooked and were promptly substituted for something else unmemorable. IMHO, save your pennies for the Oystercatcher.

And I officially rescind my recommendations for Salt Spring Roasting as serving the best espresso drinks in town. After sending back a weak latte and americano only to have them both come back about 10% stronger, we caved in and walked across the street to Moka House. Best decision we made that afternoon. The coffees were brilliant and the split pea and rosemary soup was just as good. I'll still buy my beans at Salt Spring Roasting, but will definitely get my future espresso fixes at Moka House.

Last but not least, I had a phenomenal bowl of mushroom and roasted garlic soup at the Seaside Cafe in Vesuvius. Could've easily polished off a whole pot of that stuff and would gladly go back for more.

[Daddy-A]

It's been a while since the Gulf Islands have been mentioned. My wife J, my two sons and I frequent this part of the province for our summer vacations ... 3 out of the past 4 years have been in the Gulf Islands with the misfit 4th being on Vancouver Island. Let's just say we like the ocean

Our trip this year was to Galiano Island. the "Gem of the Gulf Islands." We rented a beautiful cottage on the east side of the island and spent the majority of the time cooking our own meals. Our usual m.o. is to seek out local products to incorprate into our meals. Most islands have a farmers' market of sorts, and Galiano is no exception.

Unfortunately, the local market on Galiano is mostly craft related. Not that this is a bad thing mind you, just not what we were looking for in the way of food. The Galiano market is held Saturday mornings at the Lion's Hall. We had a cup of coffee and a cinnamon bun (home made that morning!) and then discovered we had to also wash our own dishes! While washing my mug I discovered from the cinnamon bun lady that Galiano doesn't produce much in the way of it's own food as there is very little arable land, and water is an extrememly prescious resouorce.

There is however, Trincomali Farms:

Not so much a fruits & veggies stand as a help-yourself-and-please-leave-money-in-the-bucket sort of place. We picked up a few heirloom tomatoes and some tomatilos for $5. The owner also has a couple Clydesdales that she hopes to use to bring the veggies to market for next summer.

Another place to pick up your food can be found in Montague Harbour, on the west side of the island.

Posters like this can be found on the bulletin board at the marina. Of course, if baking is more your style:

This is the Atrevida. She sails out of Maple Bay on Vancouver Island, sits herself in Montague Harbour, and bakes ... bread, cinnamon buns, cobler (pre-order required). The folks at Galiano Island Kayaking swear by them and even offered me a kayak if I wanted to go pick up fresh bread in the morning. I passed ... to much like work

We did manage a couple meals out. There are many options on Galiano, from burgers & sandwiches to fine dining ... the web site I linked at the top covers them all.

We had lunch one afternoon at the Daystar Market Cafe. Pretty simple stuff with very friendly service.

Juevos Rancheros

Bagel, Lox, Cream Cheese & Salad

Smoked Turkey Sandwich, Cherry & Raspberry Soup

I think I made the chef's day by ordering the soup. All was really tasty.

J spotted this sign on the way to our cabin:

At the bottom, the sign reads: "Purveyors of the finest pub food anywhere" A pretty ambitious claim that we inteded to sort out for ourselves.

Onion Rings

Cod Burger

Seafood Club - ordered because the Swimming Scallops weren't available

Fish & Chips

Hummingbird Burger - Bacon, Cheddar, Onions

All in all a fine pub-food meal. The burger was one of the best I've had in a while even though my 15 y.o. son was so selfish he's only let me have a tiny bite! The cod in the fish & chips and the burger was really nice. Very moist and not greasy at all. My club sandwich was ... meh. But at least they called the mock crab pollock and not "mock crab." Was it the "Finest Pub Food Anywhere"? Well, for my sons, perhaps ... especially considering it was their first (I hope!) pub meal.

One last thing about The Humming Bird ... they also offer a shuttle service to various points around the Island, all ending up at the pub of course. Nice of them to get you home safe, don't you think?

Our last meal on Galiano was breakfast the morning we left. We had seen this stand ...

... down by the ferry dock when I went to pick up my oldest son on the Monday ferry. This is Max & Moritz's Spicey Island Food. German & Indonesian cuisine? Sounds like a perfect way to start the day! And just look what they have on the menu (Item #9):

Currywurst!!

This is one place I'll definitely come back to try again. Very friendly folks, and really in love with what they do.

There are many more places on Galiano we'll try on another trip. After all, there's only so much eating you can do when you'd rather be looking at this:

A.

[Sylphid]

My wife and I strapped our camping gear onto the back of our bikes and pedalled over to Galiano a couple weeks ago for a few days. The hilight of our trip (food-wise) was the Market Cafe that Daddy-A mentioned. We were there for a late lunch, and it was surprisingly good. It's a small place, almost more of a coffee bar then a full restaurant. A pretty large variety in the menu, and the prices are reasonable. They're licensed, as well. The place has a very nice vibe, it's obviously a hangout for the locals (there were people wandering in just to say hi).

Oh, one general note: when touring the Gulf Islands, I find it wise to avoid restaurants attached to marinas. They are almost all dreadful, and can get away with it because they have a captive audience of wealthy American boat owners.

Also, if anyone else is in a similar situation as the original poster (needing to kill some time in Tsawwassen before a ferry): my parents live in Tsawwassen and swear by a relatively new place called Incendio's. It's on the main street in Tsawwassen (56th St.), a short ways north of the main intersection (56th St & 12th Ave). I've never been, so I can't say much else.

Edited September 3, 2006 by Sylphid (log)

[capers]

I had lunch at Incendio's a couple of weeks ago and our meals were very good. Try the liver, it's delicious. The menu looks good, the place is very nicely done and I really liked the bathrooms (ladies, that is ) We are definitely going to try for dinner one of these days.

[Sylphid]

I just realized I made a terrible mistake... the name of the place my parents like is called Illuminate. Incendio's is the chain of restaurants on Burrard and in Gastown. Oops! Sorry, folks.

[capers]

I just realized I made a terrible mistake... the name of the place my parents like is called Illuminate.  Incendio's is the chain of restaurants on Burrard and in Gastown.  Oops!  Sorry, folks.

←

Well sheesh, so did I. Not only that but I had their card sitting right beside me. Illuminate is the restaurant I went to and it was good.