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PCs get their props

bloviatrix

By bloviatrix
in Pastry & Baking

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bloviatrix

bloviatrix

Posted
Posted (edited)

The July issue of Food & Wine has an article called Pastry Provocateurs about some of the young PCs out there and the work they're doing. Some of the PCs featured include: Jehangir Mehta, Sam Mason, Johnny Iuzzini, and Curtis Duffy.

After reading some of the comments here about the challenges you guys face, I found this article interesting. One point they mention is the need for the savory chef and PC to work together.

There's also some discussion about the kitchen being built by Grant Achatz (chefg) at his restuarant Alinea and how he's intergrating pastry and savory stations.

Unfortunately, F&W doesn't publish their editorial content on-line, but if you have a chance take a look at a copy.

Edited by bloviatrix (log)

"Some people see a sheet of seaweed and want to be wrapped in it. I want to see it around a piece of fish."-- William Grimes

"People are bastard-coated bastards, with bastard filling." - Dr. Cox on Scrubs

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bloviatrix

bloviatrix

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Neil, while I agree with you that cooperation should be obvious, I mentioned that statement because of so many of the frustrations I've read here. Before I started reading eg I never realized how difficult it is for a PC and the dismal state of desserts in so many kitchens. As such, I've become sensitized to your plight.

"Some people see a sheet of seaweed and want to be wrapped in it. I want to see it around a piece of fish."-- William Grimes

"People are bastard-coated bastards, with bastard filling." - Dr. Cox on Scrubs

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tan319

tan319

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bloviatrix,

Thank you for posting about this F&W ish!

I'll be getting mine on the 'morrow.

BTW, Achatz has a new place?

Man, I feel out of touch.

Guess I'll head over to the Heartland forum and see what I can dig up!

Thanks again.

2317/5000

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Jason Perlow

Jason Perlow

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Posted

There's also some discussion about the kitchen being built by Grant Achatz (chefg) at his restuarant Alinea and how he's intergrating pastry and savory stations.

Interesting how Food and Wine got such an advance scoop on Alinea and ChefG's departure from Trio. Now, why didn't he tell us first? He had to have told them months ago for it to make print production deadlines.

Jason Perlow, Co-Founder eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters

Foodies who Review South Florida (Facebook) | offthebroiler.com - Food Blog (archived) | View my food photos on Instagram

Twittter: @jperlow | Mastodon @jperlow@journa.host

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tan319

tan319

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I guess I just hadn't stuck my nose into the Heartland forum enough lately, as 2 pages of posts about the 'G' mans new place were there for my reading pleasure.

I should have noted in my earlier post that I was aware of rumblings of his moving on from Trio, just didn't realize that it was true.

And, Jason, maybe he was just freaking on letting the cat out of the bag too soon.

I'm sure you guy's will be hearing from him pronto.

But, I have to say, all this morning I've been getting more and more annoyed that a magazine like Food & Wine, which to me, while being a good mag, has such a broad focus for the home cook, entertainer and party thrower, has an article like this on these new wave guys, and Pastry Art & Design, which is designed for pastry chefs of all sorts, has ignored this whole facet of dessert making! For pretty much more then a year and a half.

Now, speaking of production deadlines, I'll take this all back if say, the next issue of PA&D has something on these chefs, as a movement or solo( and, they did have Izzunni and Michael Laiskonis in the '10 best' recently) but, Jesus, does anyone else think it's sort of an oversight that's bordering on ignorant?

Take a look at this link for Sam Masons dessert menu at wd50, click on the camera symbol besides some of the items, and tell me that his plating doesn't satisfy some kind of existing (?) requirement that PA&D says has to be met to be in there.

http://www.wd-50.com/menu2.html

No, there's no pastillage, pulled sugar monoliths, butterfly tuiles, whatever, but there is class and a simplistic beauty in these, and I'm sure the other chefs works, not to mention their innovation and thoughts in taking dessert cuisine further on down the road.

OK, enough of my rant.

I'll probably be posting some more thoughts on this on the PA&D 'new look' thread in here.

Bloviatrix,

do you have a subscription to F&W?

I went looking for it this morning and the July issue hasn't hit the stands yet.

Edited by tan319 (log)

2317/5000

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bloviatrix

bloviatrix

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Bloviatrix,

do you have a subscription to F&W?

I went looking for it this morning and the July issue hasn't hit the stands yet.

I do have a subscription. They ship their issues very early. July will probably hit the newstands in the middle of the month.

"Some people see a sheet of seaweed and want to be wrapped in it. I want to see it around a piece of fish."-- William Grimes

"People are bastard-coated bastards, with bastard filling." - Dr. Cox on Scrubs

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