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Rogelio

DIGEST:2004 Spanish Newspaper Gastronomic Sections

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The Week of June 7th, 2004

Metrópoli, El Mundo’s supplement for Madrid includes a review of El Placer de Comer, a new and promising restaurant in the heart of Malasaña. Fernando Point’s review remarks the inspirative dishes with a touch of fussion and a very correct wine list.

On the same magazine this week’s Top Metrópoli is dedicated to Roasted Sardines and liste their top ten places to eat them in Madrid.

Unfortunately, the contents of Metropoli for other cities are not available on line.

Also, in El Mundo Sunday's Magazine there’s an interesting Vinegar tasting made by Viridiana’s Chef Abraham García which includes a few recipes on vinaigrettes by Hespen and Suarez.

El Correo Digital, the Basque paper includes a gastronomic section where the always polemic Rafael García Santos writes this week on Tubal, the wonderful restaurant of Atxen Jimenez and her son Nicolas Ramirez in Tafalla (Navarra). He also writes an interesting article praising the new dishes with melon as main ingredientcreated by top Spanish chefs.

On the same paper there’s a frozen crème recipe and this week’s seasonal product article is for the verdel (Atlantic mackerel, scomber scombrus) also known as chicharro.

Barcelona’s paper La Vanguardia includes a monthly supplement made by the group 5 a taula with a restaurant review that praises the new wine bar and restaurant Enoteca Bombaci at the Hotel Arts in Barcelona. 5 a taula, which in English means five at the table, is a group formed by Miguel Espinet, Sergi Ferrer-Salat, Josep Vilella, Miguel Gay y Josep Maria Sanclimens. This group publishes a homonym column in the newspaper. And also an interesting article where Santi Santamaría starts the inauguration of the renewed Can Fabes.

Asturia’s paper El Comercio take’s a view on el Mesón Restaurante Don Sancho, a popular restaurant with superb fresh seafood at reasonable prices in Avilés, and the centenarian Casa Zabala in Gijón.

This week’s recipes are for Red Mullets and an interview with Alejandro Urrutia, owner of the restaurant Paladares.

La Libertad digital, the internet newspaper always include a gastronomic article signed by the veteran critic Caius Apicius, this week is dedicated to the tapas served on the Royal wedding by Arzak, Adrià, Roncero and Jockey.

Please notice that to read some of the articles you need to be registered.

If you want to discuss this article there is a thread for that here.


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of June 14th, 2004

Fernado Point, El Mundo’s critic revisites Sacha this week at Metrópoli, the traditional bistro is still alive and kicking as always with new and traditional dishes. Among the latter, we can find the anglerfish and king prawn brochette, or what Fernando Point considers “one of the best steak tartars in the city ”. As an example of the new additions to the menu, Fernando Point mentions “an exquisite and tasteful asian roll stuffed with salmon eggs”. The entrées could be seen as “deceitfully simple” according to Point, but he remarks the quality and cooking point of a merluza al horno (hake cooked in the oven).

This week’s Top Metropoli goes for creative dishes with sardines (follow the link to get details about preparations):

  • La Taberna de Liria
  • Balzac
  • La Broche
  • Casa Manolo
  • Rianxo
  • Soroa
  • Chantarella
  • El Olivo

On the same magazine there is a review of one of our favourite wine and tapas bar La Taberna de Laredo a must go for quality tapas and all the brand new wine labels.

Rafael García Santos at El Correo Digital praises this week the seafood products served at Restaurant Joan Gatell in touristy Cambrils (Tarragona). The fish stock used to cook the zarzuelas and calderetas is remarkable, according to RGS. He writes that the best dishes are the old dishes: “it’s a must to soak some bread in a hand made mayonnaise and in a genuine and primary romescu sauce”. The fried fish is something “you shouldn’t forget”, according to RGS.

Itsaso Alvarez talks about the different Sausages and hams from different DOs. León’s botillo and cecina, Vic’s salchichón and Mallorca’s sobrassada are the sausages reviewed.

On the Barcelona’s Forum website apears an interview with Ferran Adrià where he answers the same questions that had been asked to him for years. More interesting is this two months old interview where Adrià talks about his view of the future of the food at the hotels, ie breakfasts, hotel restaurants, catering...

And the Weekend Magazine of the internet paper El Confidencial includes an interview with La Broche's chef Sergi Arola where he talks about everything including the future and past of the gastronomy and gives an interesting idea: Sponsorizing restaurants!

5 a Taula, the gastronomic group, writes at La vanguardia about Ámbara secret direction for connoisseurs” as they define this new and modest restaurant in the outskirts of Barcelona runned by a promising young disciple of Adrià. They write about the “rare perfection achieved by the desserts (in a such modest proposal)”, with the chocolate cold soup or almonds horchata with red fruits.

Also at La Vanguardia, Elena Castells on her Friday section called Los viernes, mercado (Fridays’ market) writes this week about the small size eggs ,the best for the summer acording to her article.

Caius Apicius writes this week about the delicious White prawns (Gambas blancas) from Sanlúcar de Barrameda comparing them with the more famous king prawns (Langostinos) and gives the recipe to cook them with rice noodles the way Elena Arzak does.

One last addition, Finantial Times' critic, Nicolas Lander, writes about Eating out in Marbella and Ronda on his wife's page (Jancis Robinson). And this is in English :wink:

If you want to discuss this thread, do it here


Edited by Rogelio (log)

Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of June 21th, 2004

Joan Merlot signs this week the restaurant critic at Metrópoli and he reviews Piú di prima, the latest trendy italian restaurant in Madrid, he praises the natural and atractive simplicity of the dishes in a very posh ambient where you don’t know if the (Profesional) waiters are models dressed in black or just part of the modern public that fills the place.

On the same paper’s magazine Álvaro Lerena presents La Lumbre , a new wine and tapas bar in the Ponzano area. And this week’s Top Metrópoli goes for dishes with Skate that make us remember the cried temple of the skate that was La Gastroteca de Stephane y Arturo.

· Chantarella

· Sacha

· Polenta

· Neo

· La Taberna de Liria

· La Tasquita de enfrente

· La dorada

El Mundo's Sunday Magazine includes an article about Herbs and Spices and the ways to cook with them.

5 a Taula, the catalonian group discovers this week Sant Pere del Bosc an atractive restaurant placed by the sea in an old benedictine monastey in the outskirts of Lloret de Mar. They praise the atractive, modern and mediterranean style of cooking by the self made cook Harry Wieding, who has being training with Joan Roca and Didac Lopez.

And Elena Castells on her section Friday’s market writes this week about the Coca de Chocolate , the traditional pastry filled with chocolate cream eaten on San Juan’s night fires in Catalonia.

Rafael García Santos at El Correo Digital writes this week about Taberna Zaharra, a new restaurant in Vergara runned by two couples where the women (Mother and daughter) work in the kitchen while the men serve the tables, as it used to be in the old days. They serve traditional caserio food with pristine products and modern presentations.

RGS also reviews Robuchon’s L’Atelier and La Table in paris titled Joël Robuchon,Pret a Porter en París . The always polemic critic says that Robuchon “is, was and will be the number one “ and praises this new adventure of the french genius.

Also interesting the particular Decalogueabout the virtues of traditional spanish gastronomy by chef Iñigo Perez (Formerly in Berasategui, El Amparo, and nowadays at Urretxu) where he points ten comandments like not to dress any salad without olive oil, use always ibérico ham and drink a glass of wine with every meal.

Asturian paper El Correo digital in it’s Gastronomic Chanel includes a review on the popular bar and restaurant Nalon in Oviedo and the Sidrería Entreviñes in Colunga. And Pedro Moran, chef and owner of the starred Casa Gerardo in Prendes gives cooking tips like adding a few salt to all his desserts.

Always teaching, Caius Apicius writes about Rocket , the new sensation in salads is and old friend of ours and he explains all the different herbs that have been used in salads in our history.

If you want to discuss this thread, do it Here


Edited by Rogelio (log)

Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of June 28th, 2004

Metrópoli, El Mundo´s leisure supplement comes this week plenty of information, Fernando Point writes this week about two restaurants:

Hakkasan is the new Chinese / Peruvian fusion restaurant in La Moraleja (The poshest area of Madrid). Point praises the colouristic food like scallops soup with tofu and coriander or octopus with olive oil and raw sole with ají. The wine list is better than expected even though this cooking is difficult to match with wine.

On the other hand El Paraguas as FP writes is a new Asturian restaurant with some innovation in its dishes, apart from the fabes with sea crab you can have interesting artichokes with basil oil. The weak poins are the overcooked fishes and meats. The desserts as one could imagine are apple based. Good wine list and high prices for this new umbrella.

The Tapas Bar reviewed this week is Bacchus Tapas y Vinos a wine and tapas bar placed in suburban Moratalaz.

Very comprehensive is the 2004 Terrace Restaurant List includes alphabetically all the street and terrace eateries for this summer in hot Madrid.

This week’s Top Metropoli goes for the best restaurants preparing Padron Green Peppers Padrón Green Peppers and list some of the top Galician restaurants in Madrid preparing them always deep fried. The list encompasses Orzán, Don Victor, Casa da Troya, Alcalde, Combarro, Rianxo, Carta Marina and Ponteareas.

Elmundovino, El Mundo’s wine related site has published this week an article about Eating and Drinking in Portugal to prove that there are more things than soccer worth doing in this wonderful country.

More about Portugal, the veteran paper ABC includes an article about the reopening of bicentenarian restaurant Tavares in Lisbon with interviews to both the chef and the owner of the restaurant.

Rafael García Santos goes this week down South to eat at Casa Antonio in Jaén (Andalucía) where he found a renewed restaurant where the guest can find from sensational products to innovative cooking.

And while RGS was in Jaen he got time for an Olive oil tasting between 9 italian and 17 spanish oils from different regions, being Martín Berasategui, Manolo de la Osa part of the jury . The finalists where:

Extra Dauro de L'Empordà (Girona)

Planeta (Sicilia)

Ecológico Dollium (Jaén)

Ecológico Pianogrillo (Sicilia)

Bertolli Il Sogno (Corsica)

Extra Artajo (Navarra).

Hacienda la Laguna Arbequina (Jaén)

Les Costes (Lleida).

Extra Fuenroble (Jaén)

Reserva Familiar Picual (Jaén)

Valderrama Arbequina (Toledo)

5 a taula writes this week about seasonal Mussels at La Vanguardia (Please note that this articles are only available for free during the week that were posted) and reviews the innovative restaurant Sala in Bergá (in Berguedá area) where Miquel Márquez has been researching ahead of the mainstream with products from his area. His restaurant ran by his wife and brother in law serves dishes like the marinated for a year partridge or the monkfish tournedos.

And Elena Castells on her section friday’s market writes about Mussels again the markets are now plenty of them at very good prices.

Asturian paper El Comercio Digital at it's Canal Gastronomia reviews Casa Telva in Siero, near Oviedo. A traditional home cooking restaurant with all the highlights of Asturian food,ie, fabes, pote asturiano, pitu de caleya... And in Colunga Pastisserie La Torre a must for those who love artisan sweet pasties made by the third generation of the Torre family.

Caius Apicius, on his weekly column about seasonal products writes this week about Baby squidsand gives two ideas to cook them, in fardos with bacon the way Adrià does or pan fried with a stew of its legs.

Ferran Adrià’s article of the week goes for a Chat at El Mundo sponsored by the pharmaceutical GSK and oriented to the healthy eating where Adrià answers vaguely to unspecific questions.

If you want to discuss this thread, do it Here


Edited by Rogelio (log)

Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of July the 5th, 2004

Fernado Point revisits this week Julián de Tolosa the madrileñian branch of the famous Casa Julian in Tolosa, here they have a larger menu where apart from the great rumpsteaks and the superb roasted piquillo peppers they now roast monkfish and hake. For the starters the powerful alubias de Tolosa and in the summer a proper gazpacho, all completed with a good wine list.

The tapas section visits the two branches of bullfighting Lalanda Taberna

And the Top Metrópoli goes for Zucchini flowers the group that encompases the ranking includes Casa Ormaza. Viridiana. El Imperio. Come Prima. Più di Prima. Kabuki. Balzac and El Estragón Vegetariano.

This week's best article prize is found on El Mundo's Sunday Magazine and is about five brilliant chefs talking about their mothers cooking influence and both of them cook a traditional dish by the mothers and the haute cuisine adaptation by the sons, so we find Martin Berasategui, Santi Santamaría (Can Fabes), Abraham García (Viridiana), Francis Paniego (Echaurren) and Mario Sandoval(Coque) talking and cooking with flattery with their mothers.

Barcelona’s La Vanguardia visites this week La Boquería with the group 5 a Taula, visiting Pinocho, Quimet and Universal, the three bars at the market, a gastronomic hiden treasure very well reported here at eGullet.

The product of the week in Elena Castells’ friday’s market section is the watermelon and discovers that the sweetest part is the closest to the stem.

Rafael García Santos , at El Correo Digital writes this week about Zaldiarán the Vitorian restaurant where Gonzalo Antón practises a sociologically modern and convincing cooking for a sofisticated public.

Very interesting is the review of Alicante and surroundigs in the article What's cooking in Alicante. Where apart from the excellent rice with snails at Casa Paco in Pinoso there are two classic bars in the capital worth the visit: Piripi and Nou Manolín and new additions like Max in the San Juan area. According to RGS the best restaurant in the city is Maestral, and two excursions worth the trip are Casa Alfonso in Dehesa de Campoamor for excelent rices and if you want to continue you can go as far as Ondara where in Casa Pepa you can have a fish and vegetables superb rice. The other excursion is to Petrer where La Sirena is found, the best marisquería in the area where apart from seafood you can have the best suquet of your life .

The highlights of the trip to Alicante acording to RGS would be:

· Denia: El Poblet, Where the experimental food of Quique Dacosta lives together with the best red prawns preparations

· Petrer: La Sirena is the restaurant that has gone further in the searching of all i oli

· Elda: The chocolates of Totel, and their panettone de chocolate y frutas and their financieros are famous worldwide

· Pinoso: The rice with rabbit and snails of Casa Paco is the top of traditional gastronomy.

Caius Apicius writes about the now very popular Red Tuna and talks about the misunderstandings with the Spanish name (Ventresca) and the Japanese name (Toro, which also means bull in Spanish). Both delicious anyway, the tuna and the article.

New addition to this digest, andalusian Diario Sur includes a critic by Enrique Bellver of restaurant Tikitano in Estepona. With an international staff, chef Jaxon Keedwel makes fussion food in two ambients, lighter during lunch time and more sofisticated at nights.

Enrique Bellver writes also about La Coquina a tapas bar on La Carihuela beach, good products, fried fish and seafood and a fast service are the highlights.

If you want to discuss this thread, do it Here


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of July the 12th, 2004

Metrópoli, El Mundo’s supplement for Madrid comes this week with a review of the renewed classic Club 31 by Fernando Point. The critic remarks the high business ambient more than the classic and non spectacular food according to the prices. A restaurant to see and be seen more than a gastronomic destination.

The Tapas section is dedicated to El Cucurucho del Mar a cheap seafood restaurant in the very centre of Madrid.

This week’s Top Metropoli is for the best (Fritura de pescado) Deep fried fish in Madrid. Naturally, the winners were Andalusian inspired restaurants:

La Taberna del Puerto. For the fresh red Mullets from Santa Pola (Alicante)

Alborán. For the Sea Bass or Turbot eggs with vinaigrette and deepfried onion

La Dorada. Monkfish Liver and deep fried Cocochas

La Giralda. Sea nettles (Sea anemones)

Qüenco. Red Mullets and cod or hake eggs

El Espigón. Sea nettles and hake eggs from huelva.

The gastronomy channel of El Correo Digital includes a review of Arbelaitz by Rafael García Santos. The restaurant is owned by Jose María Arbelaitz, brother of Zuberoa’s Hilario Arbelaitz. RGS notes that the restaurant has reached its cruising speed and the dishes are more thought than before, searching for the balance rather than the impact.

Also interesting is the discussion about Tuna and Albacore RGS writes about both of them without a clear winner.

5 a Taula, the gastronomic group that writes at La Vanguardia revisits the historic El Racó d'en Binu the classic restaurant that introduced, back in the seventies, the author cuisine in Argentona, the little village placed in El Maresme. The restaurant has turned itself into a living classic.

Elena Castells writes about the great idea that has apeared in little Barcelona markets (Horta, Carmel y Vall d'Hebron) where they have created aHome delivery service run by disabled people, so it’s both a convenience for the consumer and a source of employment for those who might otherwise have a problem finding a job.

El Comercio Digital from Asturias reviews the little great restaurant El Rompeolas in Tazones. The owners seem to have a secret pact with the sea to obtain the best and freshest fishes and seafood for this little typical and charming bar. Also on the same paper Casa de Comidas Fromestano is a new addition in the Asturian scene, they cook Asturian based food with modern touches.

Andalusian paper El Sur includes a review by Enrique Bellver of La Dorada de Málaga a new traditional restaurant based on seafood and deep fried fish.

Caius Apicius writes this week about Cod saying than now is surprisingly better than ever. He has been part of the jury who has decided which has been the best cod dish of the year. Surprisingly, the winner has been Marcos Moran from Casa Gerardo in Prendes (Asturias) winning over Basques and Catalans (Portugueses are out of the league. Shall we say the play in other league, instead?)

If you want to discuss this thread, do it Here


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of July the 19th, 2004

Fernando Point writes ths week about two madrileñian restaurants at Metropoli.

Asia Gallery is the new luxury chinese restaurants at the Palace Hotel. Ran by the same people of the Zen restaurant chain, this is the sublimation of their virtues.

On the other hand El Pimiento Verde is a good and modest Basque style sidrería that has acquired a good reputation between regulars that come for good food at reasonable prices.

Tha tapas section is dedicated to the crowded Bistrot Saconia placed in this remote area.

And the Top Metropoli is dedicates to desserts including Mango being obviously oriental restaurants the kings of this selection where apart from Yataki, Hakassan, Tao or Café Saigon we find La Broche and El Chaflan in the top.

Rafael García Santos travels this week to Haro in La Rioja and visits Las Duelas the new restaurant owned by five reputed bodegas of the city. They serve both traditional riojan and innovative dishes. RGS prefers the latter while valuating the former.

In his article of the week RGS writes about the permanent revolution of the Alta Cocina that seems to describe circles being nowadays the last trend the raw products or the BBQ roasted meats and fishes. Back to the roots!

La Vanguardia’s gastronomic group 5 a Taula visites this week Hostal Bertrán in Salàs de Pallars (Lérida) an ultratraditional restaurant and hotel at bargain prices. They praise the classic cooking of Maria Dolores Bertrán, things like pig trotters, meatballs soup, butifarra and beans are not usual in today restaurants, and for 11€ this is an absolute bargain.

And Elena Castells complains about the lack of taste of the new Tomatoes

Acording to El Sur's Enrique Bellver Mar de Alborán is one of the best restaurants in the eastern andalusian coast, in the entry of Puerto Marina. The food has strong Basque influence but incorpores also japanese and andalusian touches.

Always magistral, Caius Apicius diserts about the two spanish signature dishes Paella and Gazpacho Paella and gazpacho and how devaluated thay are thanks, but not only, to the bad cooks of the turistic areas.

If you want to discuss this article do it Here


Edited by Rogelio (log)

Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of July the 26th, 2004

Fernando point visites today at Metrópoli about Fast Good and Iboo, the two Fast Food restaurants created by Ferren Adrià (Fast Good) and Mario Sandoval (Iboo) praising the good paninis and natural juices of the former and the salads of the latter.

The tapas section is dedicated to La Vaquita Argentina the tapas branch created by the argentinian restaurant chain.

Top Metrópoli is for restaurants cooking Octopus being the winners very original restaurants and recipes:

1. La Lonja de Pozuelo

2. Hakkasan.

3. La Taverna siciliana.

4. Viridiana.

5. El Fogón de Zeín.

7. Pedro Larumbe.

Abraham García, Viridiana’s chef publishes at ElMundo.es about his 9 favourite Summer creams including his famous gazpacho and an iconoclastic Pinenuts Ajoblanco .

La Vanguardia’s 5 a Taula paraises Follia the barcelonian restaurant runned by Jo baixas, an architect who has changed the plans for the kitchen with very good resoults.

Elena Castells is surprised with the new Korean Stall opened at La Boquería.

Rafael García Santos visites Barcelona’s Drolma this week confirming that Fermí Puig is an advantage disciple of Escoffier and his restaurant is the sublimation of luxury ingredients in a palace ambient.

Erique Bellver writes at El Sur about La Alcaria de Ramos La Alcaría de Ramos the new restaurant of José Ramos, former cook at the classic La Fonda, the signature restaurant of the 80’s Marbella. Now runs with his son this restaurant in Estepona cooking ultraconservative dishes like beef strogonoff or game with spätzle.

Caius Apicius writes about Malvasía the mediterranian grape that has given originality to the canarian wines.


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of Agost the 2nd. 2004

Fernando Point writes at Metrópoli about La Gorda the Peruvian restarant placed in the popular Prosperidad Area. Point praises the passion and care of Carmen Delgado for her Tiraditos, cebiches and lomitos.

The Metrópoli's tapas section is dedicated to El Jardín de Baco A tapas and wine tavern in the Santa Eugenia area, in the outskirts of Madrid.

Top Metrópoli is for restaurants cooking Creative dishes with Ajoblanco being the top creative restaurants the winners of this week using this primitive almond gazpacho

1. Balzac.

2. El Amparo.

3. Soroa.

4. El Bohío.

5. Arce.

6. La Terraza del Casino.

7. No Do.

8. La Broche.

La Vanguardia’s 5 a Taula visites Casa Joan an historical fonda in Vilafranca del Penedés where they cook tradicional dishes with respect and happiness.

Elena Castells writes about an innovative experience to deal with in the daily work: Cooking with your Boss or with thos mates that you can’t stand is a new invention to learn to work as a team.

Rafael García Santos at El Correo visites La Sirena the restaurant owned by Mari Carmen Vélez in Petrer, Alicante. RGS praises in his peculiar style the quality of the seafood and the milimetric cooking points.

There is also an article about the new rural setting of Alain Ducasse in the french Vasque Country, and García Santos reveal the rural and magistral touch of Ducasse.

Erique Bellver writes at El Sur about Adolfo. The other times resference restaurant of Malaga is still one of the bests.

Caius Apicius writes about potatoes and the different vaireties in his hard to translate article From Cachelos to Papas Arrugas. Where the knoeledgeable critc praises such a cheap product.

The New York Times includes an article about Adrià on Fast Food with a few mistakes by Elaine Sciolino.


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of August the 9th, 2004

Fernado point’s critic at Metropoli is about Selfaya a small libaneese restaurant out of the international fashionists but with authentic tabuleh, kibbe and original fish dishes .

Top Metrópoli is dedicated to dishes with Melon as the main ingredient, The top nine are:

1. Santo Mauro. Sea bass Tartare with melon and lime soup

2. Soroa. Melon with clams, tomatoe infusión

3. Hakkasan. Melon cream with eggs and minced beef.

4. Casa de Ormaza, Melon Carpaccio with jabugo,

5. Viuda Blanca.

6. De Lecea. Cold melon soup with ibérico

7. Neo. Melon gazpacho.

8. La Gamella. Melon soup

9. Arabia. Melon with cheese

El Correo Digital includes Rafael García Santos review of Hispania the best Casa de comidas or traditional house food in the world as he writes in his caracteristic style about this restaurant placed in Arenys de Mar, Catalonia. Where the Reixach sisters serve the best products available very simply cooked.

While in his article of the week RGS complains about the lack of new dishes with chipirón Chipirón (Baby squid)

It’s curious to see a similar article at La vanguardia where 5 a Taula writes this week about Squids and praises the ones at Hispania.

Asturian paper El Comercio Digital in it's Canal Gastronomía includes a critic of restaurant Mirador de Toró, a classic in the village of Llanes where they have the freshest seafood from the market. And introduces the new restaurant Koldo Miranda a promissing chef with a wide background that has settle down in the village of Illas and has very high aspirations.

Caius Apicius has been to Cambados in the Alabriño fest and writes thid week about this Wine from the sea


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of August the 9th, 2004

Fernando Point visits Cosa mia a new and good italian reastaurant in Arturo Soria whose kitchen is under the supervisation of Adriana Murari chef of the well known Adriana. The restaurant includes magician gigs on weekends and the food is worth the visit but the wine list lacks of interest.

Top Metrópoli is dedicated to Baked under salt fishes , a very popular way of cooking in Spain. Madrid’s best are:

1. La Dorada. Orense, 64.

2. Alborán. Ponzano, 39-41.

3. La lonja de Pozuelo. Avda. de las dos castillas, 9 (Pozuelo).

4. Telégrafo. Padre Damián, 44

5. Taberna del Puerto. Diego de León, 58.

6. La Giralda. Claudio Coello, 24.

7. La Alpujarra. Pza. Perú, 4-5.

Rafael García Santos travels to Ezcaray at La Rioja to verify that Francis Paniego at Echaurren is growing as a cook by his own and away from his mother’s (good) influences. This week’s article is dedicated to jellys as they are becoming more and more popular in modern restaurants.

5 a Taula, the gastronomic group have travelled to the beatiful village of Cadaqués almost in France to eat at Es baluard the traditional seafood restaurant where they tasted the fishes from the few fishing boats in Cadaqués. They praise the suquet (when available) and the rare fish spices comming from the bay.

And they also visit El racó d'en Canela a reasonable restaurant in the village of Piera where Francesc Miralles Canela has renewed his restaurant with very clear ideas.

Always teaching, Caius Apicious writes about the deasaparing of the realFrench Fries and the lack of quality in our new trendy restaurants.

Note: This digest will be off for the next two weeks, and will be back on the 1st of September. Have a nice and foody Summer.


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of August the 30th, 2004

Due to the summer holidays, this is a selection af the last two week’s articles

Fernando Point has been busy looking for a good haunt to eat a Fritura Andaluza in NorthEastern Madrid, ad have found that El Jamón del Abuelo (Víctor Andrés Belaúnde, 36; Teléfono 91 344 00 60), is a nice place as well as Las Cumbres (Alberto Alcocer, 32; Teléfono 91 458 76 92), but he recomends to avoid El Cortijillo (Yerma, 8, near the Pinar de Chamartín).

Last week Point has focused in detailing what he funnily call the Point Stars to the best Casa de Comidas (Popular and traditional restaurants with good ingredients) being the winners:

La Barraca (Reina, 29. Teléfono: 91 532 71 54). A bit touristic but their arroz con carabineros y rosexat is worth the visit

Casa Lucio (Cava Baja, 35. Teléfono: 91 365 32 52). To see and be seen but apart from their huevos estrellados, the hake and the callos are superb.

Támara Casa Lorenzo (Avda. de América, 33. Teléfono: 91 415 51 76). Menestra, escabeches, tortilla de patatas, lechazo pure palentian tradition.

De la Riva (Cochabamba, 13. Teléfono: 91 458 89 54), insustituible castillian conservatory.

Villa de Foz (Gonzalo de Córdoba, 10. Teléfono: 91 446 89 93) Galician cooking at it’s best.

La Playa (Magallanes, 24. Teléfono: 91 446 06 07) is THE casa de comidas.

Top Metrópoli has been dedicated to the classic Patatas Bravas and Ceviche.

And El Mundo’s weekend Magazine has included an article about the spanish most topical dish La Paella

5 a Taula foun trhemselves in paradise dining at Can Boix in PERAMOLA-Alt Urgell-Lleida

Rafael García Santos has been traveling to Campoamor (Alicante) where he has been tasting the great rices from Casa Alfonso praising not only the rices but the John Dory and the Lamb.

And his article of the week is dedicated to the top notch restaurants placed in hotels Hotels

Asturias paper El Comercio Digital's Gastronomic pages includes critics of Vinatería el Corsario and Casa del Parque in Gijón.

Enrique Bellver has visited the enchanting El Relicario in San Pedro de Alcántara (Malaga) praising the eggs and seafood.

Caius Apicius reveals his excepticism about the Marinated Fishes but is a converted when he talks about the new revolution of cooking at Controlled Temperatures relating his last meal at Casa Solla.


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of september the 6th, 2004

El Mundo’s Madrid suplement, Metrópoli includes Fernando Point’s critic about Bokado the restaurant of the new Museo del Traje (Dress Museum) runned by the Santamaría Brothers, famous for their San Sabastian’s famous tapas bar Oñatz. Acording to Point there are still a few details to amend but the start is promising.

Metrópoli’s tapas section is dedicated to El Tendido in the Argüelles area and dedicated to the bullfights.

Top Metrópoli is for the best cuban restaurants preparing Ropa Vieja Ropa Vieja the traditional cuban dish.

Rafael García Santos has traveled to the Canary Islands to visit El Cucharón in las Palmas de Gran Canaria. A restaurant that is trying to keep the canarian traditions with a modern touch. He praises the papas arrugás and the renewed ropa vieja.

In his weekly article the critic writes about Legums and recomends eating them even in summer.

Barcelona’s paper La Vanguardia includes a short interview with Ferran Adrià where he talks about Bread .

5 a taula’s critic is for Arola the new restaurant of Sergi Arola in Barcelona., they praise the design, and originality of the idea,, the restaurant is a mix between a night club and a restaurant with very original dishes.

In her friday’s market section Elena Castells writes about Figs now that the season is starting and they are getting better and cheaper.

Enrique Bellver at El Sur reviews Da Bruno Sul Mare an italian restaurant in Malaga whose fresh pastas are worth the visit.

Caius Apicius writes humouristically about the Gracian Yogurt and it’s miraculous properties


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of September the 13th, 2004.

Metrópoli, El Mundo’s leisure magazine includes on his Madrid section the visit of Farnando Point to La Tasquita de Enfrente La Tasquita de Enfrente placed in the deep centre of Madrid this renewed restaurant changes very often it’s menu but the offer is always atractive enough to pay a visit.

The tapas section, by Álvaro Lerena is dedicated to La cruzada La Cruzada a renewed tavern in the old Madrid with good tapas and wines conveniently placed near the opera.

Top Metrópoli is for the best madrileñian restaurants cooking Sole being the winners:

1. El Pescador. José Ortega y Gasset, 75.

2. A de Alba. Dr. Fleming, 52

3. Casa Nemesio. Pº. de la Castellana, 260.

4. A´Casa de Pontevedra. Victoria, 2.

5. Tres mares. Corazón de María, 67.

6. El Barril. Goya, 86.

7. A´Casiña. Avda. del Ángel, s/n.

La vanguardia, the veteran Barcelonian paper incluyes the critic of 5 a taula the gastronomic group that has visited this week Shangai the chinese restaurant placed in Barcelona and runned by the Kao family that has keeped the traditions of the chinese haute cuissine mixed with vietnamese and catalonian influences creating a festival of armonic and surprising tastes.

Elena Castells, always writing about seasonal products invites us to buy grapes Grapesthis season

Rafael García Santos visites Aretxondo in Galdákano to confirm that the restaurant is moving forward with chef Beñat Ormaetxea.The chef is abandoning the simple products for a more sofisticated dishes and acording to RGS this is the right direction.

On his weekly article Garcías Santos writes about the Fire Works used by non talented chefs to distract the attention of the lack of quality of their products.

Asturian paper El Periódico incluyes in it’s Gastronomic Pages the reviews of:

Casa Valentin in Gijón where Rosa in the kitchen and Nori in the restaurant try to preserve the traditional asturian products, mainly fish and mushrooms.

Sidrería Casa Angelón in Nava is a tradicional asturian cider bar with all the racial Asturias food: fabada, pote asturiano...and a big wine list.

El Espacio in Lastres is a family runned restaurants worth the visit for their fishes and seafood.

Malagan paper El Sur includes the visit to El Café de París El Café de París by Enrique Bellver who is amazed by the creativity and respect for the products in the best restaurant of Málaga.

Caius Apicius polemizes this week about Frog Legs delicious or outrageous?


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of September the 20th, 2004

Fernando Point visites Naomi Japonés a hiden japanese restaurant that has celebrated it’s 30th aniversary this summer. Point praises the freshnes of the fishes and the well done traditional stews.

Metrópoli’s tapas section is dedicated to La Taberna de Colón a new style tavern with good beers and good wines.

Top Metrópoli is for Musaka listing the main greek restaurants in Madrid.

Is always a pleasure to read Abraham García. This week he’s been talking with El Mundo’s readers at This Chat

5 a Taula visites L’Ou de Reig a restaurant in the heart of Montseny where Joana presas brings back the tradition of the old french meres taking it’s roots in the tradition and product. Highly recomended.

Elena Castells is surprised by the amount of Doradas de playa (beach wild dorades) that are filling our markets.

Rafael García Santos has been in Barcelona visiting Moo the new restaurant supervised by the Roca brothers at the onomatopeyic Hotel Omm. Where chef Felip Lufriu tries to create his own cooking based on the Roca influences.

Aturian El Comercio includes on it’s Gastronomic Pages two reviews:

  • La Cantina in Avilés is a traditional restauranrt that cooks asturian/castillian food with daily menu and tapas bar that turns into a restaurant on weekends.
  • Parrilla Torrontegui is a castillian asador in the village of carreño famous for it’s roasted lamb.

Enrique Bellver visites Buenaventura in Marbella. The restaurant has renewed the menu, but the critic prefers the traditional dishes than the modern ones.

New in Fuengirola is El Snack de Airen a wine devoted restaurant and snack bar runned by El Café de Paris’ Jose Carlos García.

Caius Apicius illustrates us this week with the story of Chorizo


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of September the 27th, 2004

Fernando Point is resarching between the New classicsrestaurants in Madrid, ie, typical restaurants with innovative food Being Nicolás the paradigm and La Sociedad the promising wannabe.

Metrópoli’s tapas section is dedicated to La Taberna de Juán a fried fish (andalucian style) place in Ciudad Lineal Area.

Top Metrópoli is dedicated to Tacos, being the winners obviously the best mexican restaurants in Madrid:

1.LAS MAÑANITAS. Fuencarral, 82

2. LA MORDIDA. Belén, 13.

3. LA PANZA ES PRIMERO. Campoamor, 2.

4. ENTRE SUSPIRO Y SUSPIRO. Caños del Peral, 3.

5.TAQUERÍA DEL ALAMILLO. Plaza del Alamillo, s/n.

6. SÍ SEÑOR. Castellana, 128.

Abraham García is chating weekly with the readers of El Mundo exchanging recipes and ideas. And has written this essay about Genoma and wine

5 a taula have been visiting Cal Pere del Maset in the heart of Cava country in Sant Pau D'Ordal. Where Pere Massana and his wife Carme Ràfols founded back in 69 this classic resturant that keeps the best of the catalonian traditions.

Elena Castells writes about the Strong smell cheeses that are starting to be in season this Autumn.

Enrique Bellver revisites El Higuerón in Fuengirola, Málaga. The restaurant runned by Fernando Martín former chef of Asturias Trascorrales and madrileñian El Oso. Here he makes an Asturian-andalucian fussion with dishes like fabada or Tuna sirloin.

Bellver also praises La Tirana a nice and popular restaurant with unexpensive stews and dishes that now is cooking marroquian food every weekend.

Cius Apicius disserts about salads


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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Here goes Rogelio's digest for

The Week of October the 4th, 2004

Fernando Point discovers http://www.elmundo.es/metropoli/2004/10/01...1096581650.html La casa de Itziar an unpretentious restauran serving the now almost mising traditional house food.

Tapas section is dedicated to http://www.elmundo.es/metropoli/2004/10/01...1096581647.html Phidelio Coffee Restaurant, an ambitious bet that combines music and gastronomy and wants to become a chain.

Top Metrópoli is for http://www.elmundo.es/metropoli/2004/10/01...1096581649.html Pochas, the seasonal beans typical from Navarra. Being the winners obviously navarrian influenced restaurants:

1. PRÍNCIPE DE VIANA. Manuel de Falla, 5.

2. ALMIREZ. Maldonado, 5.

3. EL BODEGÓN. Pinar, 15.

4. ALGARABÍA. Unión, 8.

5. CASA VILA. Santa Engracia, 87.

6. CASA TERE. Avda. del Generalísimo, 64 (Pozuelo de Alarcón).

7. BLANCA DE NAVARRA. Avda. de Brasil, 13.

Is always interesting the weekly http://www.elmundo.es/encuentros/invitados...237/index.html# Abraham García’s Chat . The chef comes this week straight from Alba.

After last week’s absence Rafael García Santos has been visiting http://canales.elcorreodigital.com/gastron...casafermin.html Casa Fermín in Oviedo (Asturias). Product based traditional food with new presentations with particular atention for fishes.

5 a Taula visits the traditional http://www.lavanguardia.es/web/20041001/51164775604.html Can Xarina in Collsuspina (Between Osona and Moianés). This was one of the few restaurants serving real food visited by the late Nestor Luján and still serves simple seasonal dishes like the tartufo canneloni, roasted artichokes...

Erique Bellver in Malagan paper El Sur has discovered http://canales.diariosur.es/cocina/mesayma...a2octubre04.htm Tres Barriles a wine and fish bar with no more pretensions than serving the freshest fish and the best wines.

Caius Apicius complains this week abut the http://revista.libertaddigital.com/articulo.php/1276229241 opening dates and now more often closing dates in spanish restaurants

On Slow food we can read this Article http://www.slowfood.com/eng/sf_sloweb/sf_s...D=35473&-search about a dinner at Arzak by Carlo Petrini.

If you want to comment on the diggest do it here


PedroEspinosa (aka pedro)

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The Week of October the 11th, 2004

Fernando Point visites the new opening El Olvido , a new low budget restaurant that uses the formula of including the starter in the prize of the main dishes. Food is not superb but we’re talking on low budget.

Tapas section discovers La Vinoteca del Lector a non minimalistic wine bar in the centre of Madrid where the costumer can drink a glass of wine, read a book and enjoy San Sebastian alike pintxos.

Top Metrópoli goes for the best Cheese tables in Madrid restaurants:

1. SANTCELONI. PASEO DE LA CASTELLA, 57 (HOTEL HESPERIA).

2. VIRIDIANA. JUAN DE MENA, 14.

3. FAISANDÉ-SANTO MAURO. ZURBANO, 36.

4. LA BROCHE. MIGUEL ÁNGEL, 29.

5. BALZAC. MORETO, 7.

6. CHAFLÁN. AVDA. PÍO XII, 34.

Abraham García opens his mouth in this amazing Chat to critizise all the false taste sodomites.

Rafael García Santos visits Jolastoki in Getxo, where Sabin Arana runs the kitchen of this tradicional restaurant adapting his cooking to the actual tastes. The game, stews and mushrooms are worth the visit to this classic house.

On his weekly article García Santos complains about the desaparition of home made tomato sauce and sugest different ways of preparing tomato salads.

El Comercio, the veteran asturian paper includes to recomendations in it’s Gastronomic pages:

  • La Puerta Nueva in Oviedo is the restaurant where Sergio Rama, winner of the last asturian chefs championship, offices with a non regional cooking style proving his experiences in catalonian and vasque restaurants

  • Casa Pepe “El Bueno” in Grado is a tradicional restaurant/sidrería/bar devoted to the “afuega ‘l pitu“ cheese and where the traveler can sample simple Asturias preparations

Caius Apicius relates this week the story of the dinner offered by Talleyrand to Fouché and it's differents with todays menus.


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of October the 18th, 2004

Fernando point takes a look to the oriental invasion in General Aranaz ═ a hidden street in Ciudad Lineal area. The comented restaurants are:

'Mougo' (General Aranaz, 11. Tel: 91 320 44 76) interesting and cheap corean

'Happiness' (General Aranaz, 33. Tel: 91 741 02 23).An irregular panoriental

'Sheng-Cocina AsiАtica' (General Aranaz, 65. Tel: 91 371 7183). The most ambitious with an interesting panoriental offer

Alvaro Lerena writes about Bodegón Pinturero in his tapas section.

Top Metrópoli es dedicated to the now very popular in tapas bars creative toasts (tostas).

1. CASA LUCAS. CAVA BAJA, 30.

2. TABERNEROS. SANTIAGO, 9.

3. PHIDELIO. DIEGO DE LEON, 13.

4. ESTAY. HERMOSILLA, 46.

5. EL OLIVAR DE AYALA. AYALA, 84.

6. CASA CAMUÑAS. JUAN DE OLMAS, 39.

Abraham García keeps teaching us with his knowledge and sense of humour on his weekly chat Abraham Boca .

5 a Taula pays a visit to Marc Joly , the promising cook who is going to be the next big thing in the catalonian ampurdán. They praise the technic, product and talent of this young cook.

Rafael García Santos is almost ending his adjetives with Can jubany, the restaurant runned in Calldetenes (Barcelona) by Nando Jubany who has reached the madurity enough to improve his dishes with technic, flavour and complexity.

On his weekly article RGS praises the reborn of Pancenta in the spanish high gastronomy.

Malagan paper El Sur includes Enrique Bellver critic to Valseca a new restaurant aspiring to be Malaga's best. The start is promising but it needs more time to have the ideas settled down.

Caius Apicious writes about the link between tripes Callos and Cap i pota


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The week of October the 25th, 2004

Fernando Point’s critic includes two restaurants this week:

Dassa Bassa is the most promising new aperture of the year. The young cook Dario Barrio comes from Pedro Larumbe’s kitchen but here he flies free .

La Cocina de Maria Luisa on the other hand is the sublimation of Sorian comfort food as it best cooked by former conservative MP Maria Luisa Banzo.

Alvaro Lerena discovers Mi Pintxo a Tapas and wine bar that is born to success.

Top Metrópoli goes exotic this week with the best restaurants preparing Palak Paneer . They’re obviously indians:

1. GANGES. BOLIVIA, 11.

2. MUMBAI MASSALA. RECOLETOS, 14.

3. ANNAPURNA. ZURBANO, 5.

4. DELHI. DUQUE DE OSUNA, 6.

5. TAJ. MARQUÉS DE CUBAS, 6.

6. ADRISH. SAN BERNARDINO, 1.

Always ironic Abraham García pleased us on Abraham Boca

Rafael García Santos revisites Zortziko the classic restaurant placed in the centre of Bilbao is changing from barroque to lighter and more product influenced dishes.

On his weekly article RGS praises the new Anuario gastronómico de la Comunidad Valenciana by Antonio Vergara, a guide that includes the best restaurants in this comunity being the winners El Poblet in Denia and Ca’ Sento in Valencia and the best places acording to their specialities, ie, rices, fideuas...

5 a Taula revisites Los Pajaritos a traditional barcelonian restaurants living memory of the seveties style of cooking. Not everythig in Barcelona needs to be modernish design.

Javier Ricou writes on La Vanguardia’s friday’s market section about a stall in Lérida’s market that lives selling only snails and free range eggs

Enrique Bellver at El Sur visites Indarra a familiar restaurant vasque style in Marbella. Bellver highlights their love for the charming details that makes this little and familiar places so desirables.

Caius Apicious complains this week about the bad Mushroom Season that we are suffering.


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The week of November de 1st, 2004

Joan Merlot discovers Miyama, a very good japanese restaurant with vasque influeces, the chef was working at Zuberoa.

Pipo, El mundo del Vino is the rimbombant name of this new wine and tapas bar created by one of the best madrileñian wine dealer.

Top Metrópoli is for the best restaurants cooking Calamares en su tinta (Squids in it’s own ink) being the winners traditional restaurants cooking the squids either vasque o castillian style:

1. LAS BATUECAS. AVENIDA REINA VICTORIA, 17.

2. TÁMARAAVENIDA DE AMÉRICA, 33.

3. CASA DOMINGO. ALCALÁ, 99.

4. CASA MANOLO. ORELLANA, 17,

5.CASA RICARDO. FERNANDO EL CATÓLICO, 31.

6. CASA CIRIACO. MAYOR, 84.

Abraham García diserts about food, horses and sex at Abraham Boca , his weekly chat.

5 a Taula visites El Hogar gallego ,a traditional product based restaurant in Calella with no concessions to the avant garde cooking but to the quality and taste of the seafood.

Rafael García Santos visites Rio Asón , the cantabrian restaurant runned by chef Enrique Galarreta. The quality of the product served in big portions and very well elaborated leaves the visitor willing to repeat.

Also interesting is the article where RGS praises the use of the wide variety of local cheeses on every creative restaurant.

Enrique Bellver revisites Med in Torremolinos realizing thet the restaurant has changed for good from an experimetal laboratory into a creative food with solid roots restaurant.

Caius Apicius remembers the old sifón and compares the old tradition of drinking Vermut with soda.


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of November the 8th, 2004

Fernando Point comes back with a visit to Madrilia by Café Olivier an italian restaurant with a londonier style, ie, the owners of Café Olivier have been advised by Antonio carluccio.

Alberto Lerena on his tapas section writes about DisTintos a very much needed wine tavern in the Argüelles area.

Top Metrópoli is dedicated to the best restaurants cooking Sweet Crepes in Madrid:

1. EL VIEJO LEÓN. ALFONSO X, 6.

2. CREPERIE MA BRETAGNE. SAN VICENTE FERRER, 9.

3. BREIZH. MADERA, 36.

4. L'ART CREPERIE. MARTÍN DE LOS HEROS, 6.

5. CARIPÉN. PZA. DE LA MARINA ESPAÑOLA, 4.

6. CRONOCHEF. AVDA. EUROPA, 17 (POZUELO DE ALARCÓN).

7. CRECOTTE. AVDA. BRASIL, 26.

Abraham García deals with his readers and fans on Abraham Boca , his weekly chat.

5 a Taula visits the traditional Manel, a classic restaurant in Martorell keeping the essence of the catalonian cooking traditions.

Elena Castells is surprised by the big amount of Red Mullets that can be found on our markets even cheaper than last year.

Enrique Bellver discovers A fuego lento a honest home food restaurant in the centre of Marbella.

Caius Apicius goes crazy this week with Chicharrones and other Offal

New York Times' Mark Bittmen seems to have discovered Piquillo peppers Piquillo Peppers, a secret treasure from Spain after reading the eGullet discussions.


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of November the 15th, 2004

El Mundo's Magazine includes this week a Wine special that includes an Interview with singer and wine maker Joan Manuel Serrat.

An article about Duero/Douro a wine river along two countries.

A compilation of the Best spanish wines under 30€

Organic and biodinamical wines

A new concept of Vinos de la tierra.

Metrópoli, El Mundo’s leisure magazine comes this week plenty of gastronomic articles:

Fernando Point goes vasque visiting two vasque style madrileñian restaurants Zubia and Zerain[/URL] that have been keeping their clients by serving good products at moderated prices.

Very interesting is the compilation of the New Madrid Openings by Joan Merlot:

ARS 25 | Viriato, 25 | Light and tasty dishes with perfect technic

CITRA| Catelló, 18 | Fun and moderately creative dishes

GOYA | Plaza de La Lealtad, 5 (Hotel Ritz) | Teléfono: 91 521 28 57 | The new restaurant at the Ritz Hotel has just opened it’s doors with a promising future.

MEDINA | Bárbara de Braganza, 6 | Classic marroquian recipies by the owners of Café Olivier.

ULAN | Jorge Juan, 54 | Tasty Filipinean recipes and some vietnamese a thai touches.

GENOVEVA DE BARRI | Espejo, 10. A local for connoiseurs, good steak tartare and pork cuts.

LA COCINA DE MARÍA LUISA | Jorge Juan, 42. Sorian flavours, mushrooms, truffles and stews.

DASSA BASSA | Villalar, 7 Imaginative dishes with good technique.

EL COLONIAL | Paseo de la Florida, s/n (C. C. Príncipe Pío). Mediterranean dishes with italian inspiration.

FAISANDÉ | Zurbano, 36 (Hotel Santo Mauro). New location for the last year sensation.

SHIRATORI | Castellana, 36-38. Cerrado domingos y festivos | 60 euros. New name but same chef and staff at the old Suntori.

MIYAMA | Flor Baja, 5. New japanese with fusión touches.

Mushroom Season has been controverted and Joan Merlot points the best places to buy and sample them in Madrid and Barcelona.

Last week we were talking on the spanish forum about tripe and the best places to sample them in Madrid. Albart Solano gives here his favourites specialized restaurants.

Top Metrópoli goes for the best restaurants preparing Scalope a la Milanese.

1. BICE. GÉNOVA, 19.

2. ARS PASTA. VÍA DE LAS DOS CASTILLAS, 9.

3. LA ANCHA. PRÍNCIPE DE VERGARA, 204.

4. CASA GRANA. ORELLANA, 6.

5. LA CORRALADA. VILLANUEVA, 21.

6. L'ALSACE. MADRID, 2 (C.C. LA VAGUADA).

7. FASS. RODRÍGUEZ MARÍN, 84.

Abraham García chats with his growing number of fans at Abraham Boca , his weekly chat.

5 a Taula writes about the classic in Cabrils (maresme) a perfect place for everyday eating and try traditional dishes like the escudella i carn d’olla.

Elena Castells writes about Foie Grass on her Friday’s market section.

Rafael García Santos comes back after a week off in Valencia where he has had the chance to visit Torrijos , the former restaurant of Oscar Torrijos now is runned by Raquel, his daughter and his son in law Josep Quintana who are the future of the Valencian cooking.

RGS writes also about the new cooking technics for cod fish at The Salt of Life .

Enrique Bellver visits the unasuming Las Llaves in Mijas to eat a Cocido Maragato.

Caius Apicius writes about the typical


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of November the 22nd, 2004

Fernando Point visites the renewed Trattoria Sant' Arcangelo , a typical italian restaurant that has renewed decoration and menu with good resaults.

Pilar Cámara writes about the 50th aniversary of Paulino , the charming haunt in Chamberi.

Top Metrópoli goes for Amanita Caesarea, the queen of mushrooms, and the best restaurants to sample it.

Abraham García comes withis sweet recipes on Abraham Boca, His weekly chat

5 a Taula visites the luxury Drolma on it’s 5th aniversary, the restaurant is the epytomous of the haute cuisine with Fermi Puig leading the excellent team. The only complain are the high prices.

Sara Sans writes about winter vegetables like cabagge, spinachs...on Friday's market section.

Asturian El Comercio reviews the new restaurantLa Salgar by Casa Marcial's Nacho Manzano

Caius Apicius gives his impressions on the spanish edition of Larousse Gastronomique


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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The Week of November the 29th 2004

Fernando Point finds two budget panasiatic restaurants worth the visit in Madrid Asian's and The Wok.

Alvaro Lerena’s tapas section discovers La Central Cervecera in the outskirts of Madrid.

Albert Solano and Isabel Queipo compiles all the restaurants serving Trufa Blanca (White truffle) in Madrid.

Top Metrópoli is dedicated to Verdinas (Green fava beans), being the specialist:

1. LAGO DE SANABRIA. (Ayala, 23).

2. LA HOJA. (Doctor Castelo, 48

3. DE VINIS. (Paseo de la Castellana, 123).

4. FERREIRO. (Comandante Zorita, 32).

5. ALNORTE. (San Nicolás, 8).

6. ASTURIANOS. (Vallehermoso, 94).

7. EL OSO. (Avda. Burgos, 214).

8. TEITU. (Capitán Haya, 20).

Abraham García writes about everything on Abraham Boca, his weekly chat.

5 a Taula revisites Mas Pau a restaurant that keeps the essence of the ampurdan traditions and the modernity of El Bulli, and a good tip for thos who are going to eat at Adrià’s.

Elena Castells diserts about pork and it’s parts on Friday's Market .

This week Michelin has published it’s new red guide with rising and falling stars, check it at El Comercio Digital .

Rafael García Santos comes back with a visit to the promising La Espadaña in Jaen.

Rafael García Santos has opened his own web site including restaurant reviews, articles, his guide, his gastronomic meeting and comments all food related. Check it at http://www.lomejordelagastronomia.com/

Caius Apicius cries the death of the vasque and long time madrileñian Currito


Rogelio Enríquez aka "Rogelio"

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      Any help would be appreciated. Its a beautiful jam, I would just like to maintain the fresh watermelon taste and have it thicker.
    • By Prawncrackers
      Hola egulleters! Those of you who know me know that I like to turn my hand at Charcuterie now and then. Nothing is more satisfying than breaking down a whole pig and turning it into delicious cured meats and sausages. I'm quite happy making a wide range of products but there's one thing that I just can't get right. Fresh Spanish cooking chorizo, in particular I want to try and recreate this wonderful stuff from Brindisa http://www.brindisa.com/store/fresh-chorizo-and-morcilla/all-fresh-chorizo-and-morcilla/brindisa-chorizo-picante/
      They're wonderfully red, juicy and packed with deep pimenton flavour. Now when I make them I can get the flavour right but the texture is all wrong, very mealy, not at all juicy and the colour loses it's vibrancy too easily. What's the secret to them I wonder? Some kind of additive and/or food colouring?
      My recipe sees me mincing 2.3 kg fatty pork shoulder through a fine die, mixing with 80g pimenton, 50g salt, 30g sugar, 35g fresh garlic and stuffing into sheep casings. Here's a photo of them:

      I rest them overnight in the fridge before cooking with them. Maybe I should be putting some curing salt in there and hanging them for a couple of days? Does anyone have any experience making this kind of juicy fresh Spanish chorizo or even chistorra?
    • By milla
      For mid-May in all categories.
    • By riceman
      Dear friends,
      I would like to list here clever gastronomic proposals out of the ordinary to innovate in the kitchen. As an initial example propose our own proposal of cooking our homegrown rice to make our paellas in "El Sequer de Tonica", Spain.

      Who said that everything is invented in the field of gastronomy. I wait for your suggestions!!

      Cheers,
    • By Virbonus
      We've just come from 4 days in Madrid and an evening in Toledo. In Madrid we ate at Casa Salvador where my wife's oxtails were superb but I can only rate the flavor of my tripe as good, though it was cooked perfectly. I thought Barbara was going to swoon over the roasted marrow bone and beef at Sacha. She started with a fresh tomato salad in a very light balsamic vinaigrette that was perfection. I had the fried artichokes - paper thin slices of baby artichokes fried in olive oil that had the texture of potato chips but were pure artichoke flavor. I followed that with brains that were superb - lightly battered and fried, slightly crunchy on the outside, milky soft inside. Barbara had a chocolate thing for desert and she flipped. I had something akin to creme caramel, but I have no idea what it was, other than outrageously good. I think it had cielo in the name, but since I asked the maitre d' to just pick out deserts for us I'm not sure what we had.
      Then on Tuesday we went to David Muñoz's Diverxo. Extraordinary. And that's saying something because we got off to a really bad start. Twenty minutes to get a glass of wine ordered from the time we were seated. Then, when asked if I'd like chopsticks to which I replied in the affirmative, none ever arrived, but the food transcended all. An amuse bouche of edamame seasoned, perhaps with sumac and something else with a buttermilk-like garlic dipping sauce. Then we both had the seven course tasting menu (the other choice being the thirteen course menu). The seven courses were actually around eleven since a course would often be divided into two halves served sequentially, like the poached prawn (it was called something else) that arrived followed by the grilled, seasoned, head and body with the juices from the body drizzled over the poached tail. Somewhere in the middle were white asparagus wrapped in the skin of red mullet - actually the meal involved parts of red mullet in several of the dishes, such as a pate of red mullet liver on a thin crisp. The courses that I sort of remember include the soup served in a young coconut shell where eating the coconut meat was a desired part of the experience, a steamed roll with a quail's egg yolk barely poached on top, an extraordinary piece of tuna cheek that tasted like a sous-vide cooked short rib, and a piece of ox cheek that had been slow roasted for 112 hours, a small piece of hake served sauced accompanied by a horseradish cream and spherified lime, and a desert which I no longer remember. Very, very highly recommended.
      Yesterday, we made our way to Toledo, where completely by chance we went for lunch to Adolfo. It turns out that the chef, Adolfo Muñoz, is David Muñoz's uncle. And he cooks like it. Not modernist, but brilliantly. Barbara had a simple "small" salad ordered off the menu which was beautiful and then a scallops and artichokes starter with fresh baby artichokes and incredibly dense scallops barely accented with maldon salt flakes that were perfect. I had a risotto of black rice cooked with squid ink and baby calamari and manchego cheese that was off the charts followed by red partridge that was excellent, but paled in comparison to the risotto. Excellent.
      Now we're off to Lisbon.
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