Franny's

[Dave H]

A well deserved two stars from Bruni today for perhaps the most underappreciated restaurant in New York. I'd hope this will help convince people that despite his lackluster food writing skills he really does have pretty good taste and is actually the best reviewer in New York today (admittedly not much of an achievement). But I won't hold my breath.

[oakapple]

A well deserved two stars from Bruni today for perhaps the most underappreciated restaurant in New York. I'd hope this will help convince people that despite his lackluster food writing skills he really does have pretty good taste and is actually the best reviewer in New York today (admittedly not much of an achievement). But I won't hold my breath.

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I don't think a review of a pizza place is going to win Bruni any converts, but this is the type of restaurant that I'd expect him to understand as well as anybody. I'm more inclined to trust his judgment here than, say, at Alain Ducasse. Edited August 29, 2007 by oakapple (log)

[slkinsey]

As you can see, I've been a Franny's supporter from the beginning, so I'm very happy to see that they are getting the recognition they deserve. Also very happy to see that they are bringing back pasta items to the menu. I think it says a lot about the kind of people they are that they took pasta off the menu for a number of years because they didn't think they had the equipment and staffing to do it right.

[Pan]

It'll be interesting to see if this review makes it pretty much impossible to get into the place. That's what I'd be concerned about.

[Dave H]

I'm always a bit distraught on my far too infrequent visits to Franny's to get in with under a half hour wait. Yes it would be a pain were that not the case, but given how much better it is than its competitors it should be mobbed. My guess is it still won't be, although hopefully they will get a notable bump. (Not that they need it, but maybe people would take it a touch more seriously if they had to wait a while longer for a table.)

As for Bruni, no, he is still not a good critic of fine dining, but neither is any other reviewer for a mainstream publication. At least he recognizes and rewards the difference between decent casual food and extraordinary casual food (e.g. Franny's, Ssam Bar, etc.), which sadly puts him ahead of the pack. Informed criticism of fine dining is solely the province of blogs and discussion boards.

[Nathan]

Richman. but then he exchanged his position of national reviewer at large for relative obscurity when he left GQ.

[oakapple]

As for Bruni, no, he is still not a good critic of fine dining, but neither is any other reviewer for a mainstream publication. At least he recognizes and rewards the difference between decent casual food and extraordinary casual food (e.g. Franny's, Ssam Bar, etc.), which sadly puts him ahead of the pack.

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He is generally behind-the-pack. New York magazine had already pronounced Franny's the best pizza in New York. All Frank did was to place his benediction on a judgment that other, more knowledgeable people had already reached. Edited August 30, 2007 by oakapple (log)

[phaelon56]

Moderator's Note: This thread is specifically for discussion of Franny's and as such any commentary that relates to Bruni's review is fair game. But there's a bit of topic drift occurring.

For commentary and general discussion about Bruni's reviewing style in the larger scheme of things please post your thoughts on the Bruni and Beyond Thread. Thanks!

[Nathan]

I finally braved the wilds of Park Slope and made it here.

yeah, it's really really good. you know what this place is? it's Lupa...with pizza instead of the secondi (very good pizza btw).

excellent seasonal ingredients simply dressed and excellent salumi. (the house-cured pancetta crostino was really great).

the cocktail list is one of the better restaurant lists around.

[Sneakeater]

Obligatory Post

Franny's is NOT in Park Slope.

(I will go to my death fighting for the universal acknowledgement that Franny's is in my neighborhood.)

Edited June 9, 2008 by Sneakeater (log)

[slkinsey]

Isn't Franny's more or less on the boundary between Park Slope and Prospect Heights?

[Sneakeater]

The same way Arturo's is more or less on the boundary between Soho and the Village.

[slkinsey]

Would it be wrong for someone to say that Arturo's is in either neighborhood?

[Jesikka]

Would it be wrong for someone to say that Arturo's is in either neighborhood?

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Yes, it would be wrong because Arturos is definitively in the village.

[kathryn]

West Village (sometimes referred to as "The Village") = Hudson river to 6th Avenue, between 14th and Houston

Central Village = 6th Ave to Broadway, between 14th and Houston

Greenwich Village (often ALSO referred to as "The Village") = West Village + Central Village = Hudson River to Broadway, between 14th St. and Houston

Soho = 6th Avenue to Lafayette, between Houston and Canal

Yes?

Arturo's being at 106 W Houston St, the just north side of Houston St., would be north of Soho, and located in Greenwich Village or Central Village. But not the West Village.

NB: I am in my late 20s and these are the boundaries as my last apartment broker drew them.

Edited June 9, 2008 by kathryn (log)

[raji]

Damn brokers. Leeches!

N.B. I've never heard a NYer call it "central" Village - rather "the Village/Greenwich Village, NYU-area" as NYU is pretty much a majority land owner in that exact area, 6th to bway houston to 14th

[kathryn]

Yeah, sometimes I hear it as Central Village (and this was from someone who lived around there and is a born and bred NYer), but usually I hear it as "around NYU" or "Washington Square Park," sometimes as "The Village."

I think the central village thing is odd myself, but it makes it more clear what to call the zone between the East and West villages.

[slkinsey]

I think it's picking nits a bit to say that a restaurant is definitively in one neighborhood and definitively not in another neighborhood based only upon the side of the street on which the restaurant is located. Rather, it seems more realistic to say that it is on the border, and therefore part of both neighborhoods by any meaningful real-world criteria. Looking at the example of Arturo's, while the web site's URL is arturosgreenwichvillage.com, I note that the actual page says: "Neighborhood: Greenwich Village, SOHO."

Getting back to Franny's, it seems reasonable to say that it is part of both the Park Slope and Prospect Heights neighborhoods by virtue of being on the borderline.

[Nathan]

I'll agree that Arturo's is not in SoHo because which side of Houston you are on is in fact the division. it is adjacent to SoHo.

also gratified to see others supporting my contention that the WV begins at 6th Ave (this also has the benefit of consistency with the boundaries of Chelsea)

Edited June 10, 2008 by Nathan (log)

[weinoo]

While this "what neighborhood" talk is fascinating, let's talk about the food and drink, please.

So, Nathan, what kind of cocktails did you drink, how were they priced, does it make it more of a destination because, after all, how often are "pizza" restaurants known for their cocktails? Any house-specialty cocktails?

[slkinsey]

Franny's cocktails menu here.

[Nathan]

I believe that Lynette of Elatteria came there from Franny's (and might still tend there as well?)....it definitely qualifies as one of the restaurants with a legitimate cocktail program (a discussion worthy of a thread of its own I think).

I will say that Franny's is about as much a pizza restaurant as Momofuku Noodle Bar is a ramen restaurant (though the pizza at Franny's is probably better for its genre than the ramen at Noodle Bar).

[Sneakeater]

I think it's picking nits a bit to say that a restaurant is definitively in one neighborhood and definitively not in another neighborhood based only upon the side of the street on which the restaurant is located.  Rather, it seems more realistic to say that it is on the border, and therefore part of both neighborhoods by any meaningful real-world criteria.  Looking at the example of Arturo's, while the web site's URL is arturosgreenwichvillage.com, I note that the actual page says: "Neighborhood: Greenwich Village, SOHO."

Getting back to Franny's, it seems reasonable to say that it is part of both the Park Slope and Prospect Heights neighborhoods by virtue of being on the borderline.

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As a longtime resident and propertyowner in Prospect Heights, the distinction is important to me. If my apartment were a couple of blocks away, in Park Slope, its value would be enormously higher. I can't let it go by when Manhattanites -- nobody who lives in either my neighborhood or Park Slope would say Franny's is in Park Slope -- contribute to keeping my property value down by assigning what is probably my developing neighborhood's single best amenity to Park Slope. It just rankles that anything good in Prospect Heights is assigned to that other neighborhood by tourists because, of the two neighborhoods, Park Slope is the one they're more familiar with. Park Slopers shouldn't get all the property-value credit for Prospect Heights amenities.

Edited June 11, 2008 by Sneakeater (log)

[Nathan]

tried most of the menu with a large group on Saturday eve.

the ingredients are indeed very good. pasta is simplistic but tasty. other than one burned pie issue, the pizzas are mostly very good...(especially the tomato-anchovy one)...though they should jettison that ridiculous no cutting policy.

one flaw that you notice when trying everything as opposed to a normal dinner: they use very similar preparations for most of the contorini...a lot of the vinegar, oil and lemon thing. it gets old pretty quickly. but then it's unusual to try virtually all of them at once. but it does show some culinary limitation.

with that said, it's a very professional operation. (should be at the price point). contrast it with say the Farm on Adderly. place with good ingredients, a nice bar and warm decor...but it would never ever fly in the city. way too many covers for that small a kitchen. they can't handle it. but apparently the locals are happy to wait an hour after they order. in contrast, Franny's gets service and what they can do with that kitchen.

[slkinsey]

... they should jettison that ridiculous no cutting policy.

I have to say I've never understood this. Uncut single-sized pizza has been standard in Italy since forever, and no one seems to have any trouble with it.