Blog: The girl who’s learning to bake

[Jaymes]

I add maple sugar to the whipped cream when I serve it atop bourbon pecan pie.

And if it's for regular pecan pie, I add both maple sugar and some bourbon to the cream.

Gotta get that bourbon in there somewhere, y'know.

[yorkshirepud]

I don't have any bourbon so that idea is out (at least for now).

The pie actually has a chocolate drizzle, so I scrapped the idea of peach ice-cream as I wasn't sure it would work with the chocolate and that perhaps there would just be too much going on.

I've decided to settle for a vanilla ice-cream. This will be my first time using whipping cream for ice-cream so I think I'll benefit from allowing the cream to shine through.

[claire797]

Over the past year, I've really started to like both Bourbon and pecans. This is a good excuse to put the two together, so I think I'll make RLB's pie but add a litte bourbon.

YP, I have a tried and true crust recipe that I always use. It's based on a book you would love called Once Upon A Tart, which is named after the bakery in New York. I use Once Upon A Tart's basic tart crust recipe for all of my pies and tarts.

[FWED]

Good luck on your journey. It's a great adventure to be on.

I would like to add my recommendation of the "Cookwise" book.

Now my 2 cents on digital thermometers when making sauces and candy and such. I have stopped using the digital type because I found that for most of them the tip has to be submerged into the liquid anywhere form 1 in to 2 inches. I found that I was overcooking or burning the liquid and not getting the correct temp because there wasn't enough liquid in the pan to give a reeding. I went back to the glass candy thermometer and haven't had that problem since and i feel that is because the part that measures the liquid is at the very bottom. I also want to put in a good word for pots and pans. A good sauce pan that has a thick and even cooking bottom is a must for continued success. Good luck. Fred

Edited May 29, 2004 by FWED (log)

[yorkshirepud]

So, I made caramel. I decided to attempt the Creamy Caramel Sauce from The Secrets of Baking. I chose this one because Sherry Yard states that by adding some acid to the mixture (in this case, lemon juice); the sugar molecules will be deterred from rejoining thus avoiding crystallization. I figured I needed all the help I could get so this recipe was for me. Her recipe also includes a small amount of corn syrup which also helps prevent the crystallization.

So, I got myself ready. Weighed out all my ingredients carefully and set them aside.

I made sure my puppy Bosco was occupied.

Much to his delight he had the run of the house (my poor plant, oh, and yes, of course; he had to do his business while I concentrated on my caramel – oh the joy!).

Anyways, I seem to be off to a good start. I’ve mixed the ingredients by hand in the pot to incorporate.

I’m not sure why I had to use my hand (clean ones of course), though I do recall reading that if stirring is required, one should use a metal spoon as opposed to a wooden one as they can collect small particles in the pores – which once again could lead to possible crystallization.

Everything is going smoothly. Then, my mixture is at approximately 325. I see the edges are turning quite brown. Is that smoke I see? Shit, but my mixture still has to go up another 25 degrees. I’d read a few hours prior that SteveKlc cooks his caramel until he smells the first hint of smoke. Am I at that stage? I think I am. But, I still have 15 degrees to go (at this point I’m up to 335). I just know I’m at that stage where I could potentially have caramel or regretfully eye a bitter caramel disaster once again. So, I take it off the stove.

I let is sit for approximately 1 minute and let the bubbles subside. I add the cream and remaining ingredients. I beat like hell chanting to myself ‘this is gonna work, this is gonna work!’

But what the hell – that looks really dark. Oh shit, did I screw it up again? I ponder. Then remember what I’d just read in Bittersweet. In order to test the colour of caramel, you need to offset it against a white surface. I drag out a plate and plop some on. Oh my, I think I did it. I made caramel.

Time for the taste test!

So, my caramel has a slight, very slight, bitter undertone. Thankfully, it’s not a burned taste so I didn’t screw up. I suspect I actually made (not intentionally) the stage of caramel I was attempting to make a few weeks ago from The Pie and Pastry Bible. Having said that, this isn’t quite the caramel flavour I am familiar with. So, I reread the intro on caramel in the book and learned that there are two states of caramel - golden (which should be taken off the heat at 325°F) and dark (which should be taken off the heat at 350°F). It seems I made a dark caramel.

I think I prefer golden, but at least I can now determine the characteristics of each. When I attempt this again, I will aim for golden.

It was quite fun seeing my caramel slowly thicken. I’ll admit I spent way too much time blissfully stirring it and allowing it to slowly stream from a raised spoon.

Upon reflection, I realise now that perhaps the flavour of caramel would be too much with pecan pie. But, it’s made now, so will reside in my fridge until needed (I do believe it will last up to a month).

Tomorrow’s project will include making the pastry dough for my pie and the custard base for my ice-cream.

Edited to add latest picture

This is my caramel sauce the next day. I'm glad to see I got some good gloopy action going on.

Edited May 29, 2004 by yorkshirepud (log)

[yorkshirepud]

Claire, I remember browsing Once Upon a Tart a few times. I does look like a nice book. I remember watching him on Martha Stewart once which is where I found out about the book. Good luck with the pie!

FWED, all the books I read recommended a digital - though of course, much of this will be based on personal preference. Maybe I'll pick up a regular one and see if it makes a difference. What's one more gadget?

I agree about the pans. I am wondering if my cheapo pans are the reason why I'm unable to take caramel to 350. They aren't super heavy, but the bottoms are somewhat thick. I do plan on replacing my pans later this year.

[CompassRose]

The first time I made caramel, I did so in one of my fairly expensive nonstick pots. Heavy, yes, and the caramel turned out fine...

but the pot has never been the same. Er, d'uh.

The third time I made caramel, it boiled over, and there is now a ring of eeny weeny cracks where the sugar went on my beautiful Gemini smoothtop stove.

Caramel is my daemon, I think.

[jeniac42]

Neat blog! I'd love a banana ice cream with a pecan pie/chocolate drizzle, but vanilla done well is always good.

I love making caramel. I don't have the science of it down, exactly; most of my experience was making it on the line at my last job, where candy thermometers were unknown, so I always just kind of guessed. I got to the point where I could make consistent results but I don't know what I was doing, exactly.

But sitting around and pouring it off the spoon is way too much fun. I also like to stick my hands in ice water and play with the caramel a little bit while it's still hot, or put it on the counter and let it cool fractionally and then squish it around as it sets up. NB I have almost no feeling in my thumb and first two fingers on the right hand so this may not be advisable.

Making creme brulees was always a good time, too. Until the torch got all dirty and nobody knew how to clean it, anyway.

[FWED]

Hi. A couple of thoughts come to mind when I was looking at the photos. Besides the thermometer issue I like to use a pan with a light interior color. Nothing against the black and nonstick pans its just that you can't see the color of the caramel in a dark pan. I noticed in the photos that the pans seem to be flared with a wider top than bottom. This may contribute to the overcooking and darkening of the caramel around the outside of the pan. You might try a heat defuser (there are several made for both electric and gas ranges). I have had this problem where the outside of the pan flares and the thick bottom deflects the heat up the outside. This along with a malfunctioning thermometer can spell Bitter caramel. I usually go with a med to med hi temp when making caramel and a defuser on my cook top. It may take a Little longer but things happen slower and allow me to react to the cooking color and smell. Hope this helps.

Edited May 29, 2004 by FWED (log)

[heyjude]

Adele, this is a wonderful blog that I'm sure will have a huge number of hits over its lifetime. Your photos are terrific. I just wanted to add to your must-have book list. The Simple Art of Perfect Baking by Flo Braker and anything by Maida Heatter will be inspiring while they answer many questions. The Braker book is out in a new edition and the older Heatters often show up at used bookstores. Both of these women are highly respected teachers for home bakers.

[yorkshirepud]

CompassRose, sorry to hear of your caramel woes.

The only advice I can offer (though I’m sure you know this one) is to use a pan twice the volume of the mixture.

Another tip is to slightly warm the cream to 100°F (of my, I’m actually remember all this). While this won’t entirely prevent potential boil over, it does help to tame its temper a little.

My recipe also told you to allow the sugar mixture to sit 1 minute (or until the bubbles settled) once it’s off the stove, which at this point, I assume helps too.

jeniac42, ah I have great memories of crème brûlée. One was delightfully rubbery and other nice warm egg soup. Crème brulee will definitely be a recipe I will try out for my blog. In fact, I was considering it for next week.

I’ve only had the pleasure of tasting crème brûlée via at taste testing at Williams-Sonoma (i.e. a bite), so I’m looking forward to sampling this creamy, luscious delight.

FWED, well I just had a skeg at my pans (you’d think I’d know them well after 4 years) and they don’t flare out like you thought. I guess it was just the camera angle.

However, I am using gas for the first time (had electric stove before renovation) and perhaps it just a matter of me getting used to it.

Thanks for the tip about the heat diffuser.

Heyjude, thank you.

The Flo Braker book will likely be my next purchase. I perused it a few times and it seems like a great resource. I also see her referenced by other authors a lot. Same with Maida Heatter. I’m yet to see her books available in the bookstores I visit, but they aren’t used books, so I will do a search next time I pass a used bookstore.

Edited May 29, 2004 by yorkshirepud (log)

[fredbram]

My 2 cents on caramel.

First, I love the bitter undertone in caramel--it's that contrast to the sweetness that makes it so appealing, IMHO.

I also never use a thermometer for caramel, although I do for most other sugar cooking endeavors. The visual works best for me. And, I don't wait a minute before adding the cream. Your caramel continues to cook in that minute, and you need to take that into account when timing the pull off of the heat. I'm sure that is recommended because of the danger of boiling over, but just use a big enough pan and watch what your doing. That way you can stop the caramel's cooking at the exact moment when it looks and smells right to you.

[andiesenji]

I agree about the pans. I am wondering if my cheapo pans are the reason why I'm unable to take caramel to 350. They aren't super heavy, but the bottoms are somewhat thick. I do plan on replacing my pans later this year.

If you buy nothing else, get a good copper pan for sugar/caramel/butter/chocolate. It can be a treasure and can make your tasks much easier. The response to heat is rapid and absolutely nothing else works as well.

You do not use this pan for anything else, being unlined it can't be used for cooking anything that has high acid content (except for fruits cooked in sugar for jams, etc., but for sugar work it is ideal.

This site http://www.chefsresource.com/solcopsugsau.html

and this site http://www.chefsresource.com/solcopsugsau.html

have the best prices.

I have three and the one I use the most is the 1 3/4 quart, the diameter to depth ratio makes this one the easiest to use for me. The smaller one, 5 1/2 inches in diameter is just a bit too small for most recipes and the largest 3 1/2 qt. is simply too big to handle easily with one hand.

If you want to do larger batches, Sur La Table http://www.surlatable.com/

has an 18 cup (4 1/2 qt.) small preserving pan with two handles at an excellent price (49.00) right now. This item is not always available at such a good price. I have two of these and they are extremely useful for candying.

Andie

[jeniac42]

That seems like a pretty good deal for a copper pan. There's a SLT near me now, so I might consider picking one up.

Why is copper best for sugar work? I know I've heard this, and we have a giant copper bowl at work that's used for all the sugar cooking, but I can't seem to remember the science behind it.

Adele, the creme brulees were not too hard once I figured out (actually on my own, although I know it's standard procedure now) to put the water in once the pan was in the oven.

[JanKK]

If you want to do larger batches, Sur La Table http://www.surlatable.com/

has an 18 cup (4 1/2 qt.) small preserving pan with two handles at an excellent price (49.00) right now. This item is not always available at such a good price. I have two of these and they are extremely useful for candying.

I this also a copper pan, Andie? And did you find it on their website or in a store? I went to the website, but can't seem to find this.

thanks!

--Jan

[yorkshirepud]

fredbram, I did wonder why I had to wait a minute before adding the cream. I’ve not seen other recipes request this. I think next time I’ll just add the cream immediately.

andiesenji, Thanks for the pan recommendations. It’s a good idea getting a pan dedicated to candy making only. I’ll see if I can find one locally first (I’m in Canada). I’ve been hoping to hit a restaurant supply store so perhaps now is the time.

Edited May 29, 2004 by yorkshirepud (log)

[yorkshirepud]

On to my first project of the day – Vanilla Ice Cream

I’ve overdosed on the coffee and smokes and tended to my zoo (I have a puppy and 2 cats). Time to get my ice-cream base together.

Remembering my promise to exercise better preparation, I get all of my ingredients together.

I decided to half the recipe and carefully calculate my weights. I have a tendency to only half some ingredients when I’m reducing a recipe. I don’t have vanilla beans so I’m forced (terrible I know) to make a substitute with vanilla extract. I go off on a search for the amount of extract I should use. I find my answer here (thanks nightscotsman) and end up subbing 1 tsp of vanilla extract for ½ a vanilla bean. Sounds good to me.

On the stove for my milk and cream.

A little whisking action for the eggs yolks, sugar and salt.

The time comes to temper my eggs. Now I have an issue with this part. My damn bowl always slides all over the place. I’ve tried the whole wrapping the bowl with a tea towel or placing the bowl directly on a tea towel – neither worked. But I have found a new tip (I don’t recall where). Before wrapping your bowl with a tea towel, soak it first and squeeze out the water. Voila! My bowl didn’t budge.

Back to the stove. I set up a double boiler and off we go. Time to make some custard.

Boring stirring follows. I decide to attach my thermometer to ensure I don’t scramble the eggs. I’m looking to reach 170°F. Beyond that, apparently the protein in the egg will grip together and produce scrambled egg.

My thermometer finally says the mixture has reached 170°F. I should have the texture of cream should I not? My custard should be coating a spoon. Well, it isn’t. I jiggle the thermometer a little. Perhaps I have it too low in the pan? What? Okay, so now the mixture is 165°F. Okay, perhaps I’ll see some custard in the next 5 degrees. Roll on to 180°F; I still don’t have damn custard. Coat the spoon godamnit! It may be morning, but I ain’t up for scrambled eggs.

I decide that the thermometer is out of whack and toss it aside and continue. I still see no thickening action.

I eye my flour. Hmmm. Would a little flour hurt? Would anyone know if I quickly threw together a little flurry of flour and milk to help me along? Nah I say. It’ll thicken. Patience is all I need.

I do the spoon test yet again. I see I’m slightly tipping the spoon as I do so making custard dribble off. I think to myself, perhaps when the author states the mixture should leave a clean trail (with no runs) the spoon is supposed to be level. I try this. Mmm, it’s seems to work. Off the stove we go. And here ladies and gents, I do believe, is a good example of a clean trail (I hope).

Time for an ice bath.

Oops, I realize I’ve forgotten to strain the mixture.

Well, I see no harm in doing it now. Good thing I did. There was a little egg crud lurking within. I am quite happy at the proportion of egg crud as I typically manage to produce more. Au revoir egg crud!

I lay some plastic wrap on the surface and off she goes to the fridge for an overnight stay.

Edited May 29, 2004 by yorkshirepud (log)

[jgarner53]

But, it’s made now, so will reside in my fridge until needed (I do believe it will last up to a month).

That caramel sauce will be good on your ice cream that's in process. And on apples. Or pears. Or bananas. Or fingers...

I love seeing all the pics of your work in progress (and it looks like you have a nice kitchen to boot!)

I have used a silicone hot pad to anchor a bowl on the counter with great success.

[yorkshirepud]

Thanks jgarner53, I am thoroughly enjoying my kitchen. I'm glad your enjoying the pictures. I'm a designer so I appreciate a visual aspect myself.

Thanks for the tip on the hot pad.

[yorkshirepud]

Now for the second project – Basic Flaky Pie Dough

First things firsts - the ingredients.

I’m intrigued by the procedure followed for this recipe. The author states to put the flour, baking powder and salt in the freezer, as well as a portion of the butter (2 thirds). The other butter portion (1 third) goes in the fridge. Anyway, I do everything suggested and twiddle my thumbs for 30 minutes.

Back to my intrigued state. I understand the butter has to be very cold when making pastry dough. But I have some questions :

(1) Why put the flour mixture into the freezer?

(2) Why section out the butter and put some in the freezer and some in the fridge?

I’m also wondering why there’s baking powder in there. Oh, and what difference will using pastry flour offer me? And while I’m at it, why cider vinegar (I’ve always used a recipe that asked for this, but never questioned why).

*grab my book*

Here’s what I learned (I’ll admit, I don’t quite get it all. It’ll sink in eventually):

RLB doesn’t state why she freezes the flour, she just tells you to. That’s fine. I can live without knowing.

She offers more insight into the butter thing.

You initially incorporate the two thirds of butter and flour so that the flour won’t sop up too much water and form gluten. You then add the remaining butter (in larger pieces) to create the layers that give us the flakiness.

The baking powder helps prevent shrinkage. It also helps to lift, aerate and tenderize the dough. Nice to know.

As for the pastry flour that's used because it has the ‘perfect’ protein amount to produce a crust that offers a pleasant stage of flakiness and tenderness. This will be interesting to experience, as I’ve always made pastry dough using AP flour.

The reason behind the cider vinegar is because its acidity will weaken the flour’s gluten. Apparently, this will make easier to roll.

So, my curiosity is appeased and I can move on. Pastry time.

So, in goes the first batch of butter.

I’m instructed to pulse the mixture until I get something resembling coarse meal.

Now for the second batch of butter from the fridge.

I need to pulse it this time until I find myself with dough resembling peas. I think I’m there. I see some bits of bigger butter here and there so break them up with floured hands a little.

Time to add the water and cider vinegar. I now have to reach a stage where the dough will only hold together if pinched.

Next, I’m to put the mixture into a Ziploc bag. I imagine this is done to prevent the reader from handling the dough and melting the butter.

From here, I’m told to knead the dough until it holds together.

As I took my dough out of the bag, I noticed some cracks in the dough. So, once wrapped in plastic wrap, as I was shaping into a circle, I’m ironed them out a little. There’s still some but what can you do?

Well, my projects are done for the day.

Finally, all my hard work will pay off tomorrow when I make the pecan pie and freeze the ice-cream. As a reward, I think I’ll go have a spoon of my caramel sauce.

[andiesenji]

If you want to do larger batches, Sur La Table http://www.surlatable.com/

has an 18 cup (4 1/2 qt.) small preserving pan with two handles at an excellent price (49.00) right now.  This item is not always available at such a good price.  I have two of these and they are extremely useful for candying. 

I this also a copper pan, Andie? And did you find it on their website or in a store? I went to the website, but can't seem to find this.

thanks!

--Jan

It is listed as small preserving pan

[andiesenji]

Why is copper best for sugar work? I know I've heard this, and we have a giant copper bowl at work that's used for all the sugar cooking, but I can't seem to remember the science behind it.

The unlined copper is best because the heat distribution is carried to all parts of the pan with no hot spots. Heat conduction in copper is so good that it heats quickly and cools quickly as soon as it is removed from the heat. There is very low resistance to heat conduction which is why copper is used for electrical use. It conducts electricity without heating up as much as other metals (resistance). Aluminum wire was used in house wiring for a time in the fifties and sixties but there were a lot of fires because the wires heated but from resistance. Back to copper.

I have a couple of copper kettles and a large poaching pan that are almost 200 years old and are still usable. Copper vessels from Roman times are still usable (though they are in museums).

It is expensive and a chore to polish but there is nothing quite as good for sugar work.

[yorkshirepud]

Finally time to finish off my projects.

I'll start with the easiest task. Freezing the ice-cream.

A little churning action follows.

It’s really starting to set up now.

And it’s done.

Of course, I have to have a taste test before packing if off the freezer. Wow! Fabulous! The cream really shines through and makes this luscious. It’s so smooth and velvety. This is my first time using whipping cream for ice-cream (previously it’s been combos of either milk, half and half, light cream) I’m sold. Okay, I’ll put my spoon down now. Into the freezer we go.

As my husband is away fishing, Bosco gets the honor of licking the beater clean.

First things first – rolling the dough.

As usual, it’s a messy affair and I have a pathetic looking circle. I don’t know how they do it on TV.

I use the same trick I learned last week (from The Pie & Pastry Bible) and lay the dough carefully over an 8 inch cake pan. You then remove the top layer of plastic wrap.

Next, you carefully place the tart pan over the dough and ease it down.

Flip it over.

Remove and pan and press the dough into your pan.

I still need to work on this part. My presentation isn’t the best but it’s getting better. I had to do a little patchwork here and there but that’s nothing new.

I preheat the oven to get it ready for blind baking the dough while it chills.

Once ready, I pack it down with weights. I use a combo of rice, dough weights and chickpeas. Blame the lady at the store who told me ONE box of dough weights would be enough.

And into the oven.

All done! Not bad, not bad. After I removed the weights for the last 5 mins or so of baking, I expected it to puff (they usually do) but it didn’t. I’m a happy chic right now. After 3 mins, I water proofed the dough with an egg white.

I let it cool down and then got my ingredients together for the rest of the pie.

I have to throw it together earlier than anticipated as we got a list minute invite to a dinner barbecue. So, I’m going to bring it with me along with the vanilla ice-cream.

I carefully placed my pecans in a spiral around the shell, nibbling a few on the way (baker’s privilege).

Now it’s time to get the mixture on the stove.

I decide to be brave and cook the mixture directly in the pan (I was going to do it over a double boiler). It seems to be going well.

Off the stove and strained.

Much to my annoyance, upon pouring the mixture over the pecans, it disrupted some my hard work. Some of it still remains so I get over it.

As I’m about to put the tart in the oven, I realize I forgot to add the vanilla (I anticipated this which is even more annoying). I debate whether to omit it but decide not to and mix it in. Bye bye to the remaining pecan spiral. Next, I add my pitiful foil ring and put it in the oven.

After a few minutes, I smell a candy like aroma. Mmm … seems a little soon to be smelling the goods. Take a peak in my oven and am pissed to see my filling dribbling out. So much for water proofing the dough. Anyway, I quickly took it out, put it on a baking sheet and threw it back in.

It’s out the oven. I’m a little disappointed with its appearance but I’m happy anyway. I’m not sure if the yellowish tinge is supposed to be there but it’s too late to fret now. It’s seems to be a bubbly froth. I obviously still have to work on my pecan pie - presentation wise that is. Taste wise we’ll have to see. I don’t think I’ll visit it again until later in the year (Thanksgiving perhaps?). I’ve made progress from my first attempt so it’s all good.

I’m off to get my rags on for the barbecue!

[SethG]

Yes Claire it is. The dough it wrong though, in her book, she uses the cream cheese one. But that's okay, I planned on using her Basic Flaky Crust.

Adele, have you tried the cream cheese crust? I've had good luck with it.

I look forward to reading more about your baking!

(Shirley Corriher is currently writing BakeWise, by the way. But I have no idea when she'll finish it.)

[Mottmott]

Anyway, I do everything suggested and twiddle my thumbs for 30 minutes.

You can shorten this step by storing butter and flour in the freezer. I always keep some butter in the freezer, though not always flour.