eG Foodblog: SethG - Brooklyn, Bread and Back to Business

[SethG]

Seth, Nice blog so far. The pictures of Sahadi's really brought back some memories of growing up in nearby Park Slope. I would love to see more pictures of the special food places in the area if you could swing it. Nostalgia is a wonderful thing.

You know, doc, I was planning on posting a pic of this shop I like on 7th Avenue in Park Slope called D'vine Taste. It's sort of a miniature Sahadi's; it's also owned by a Lebanese family. They couldn't be nicer, and if there's some spice they don't have, they'll get it for you in a day or two. I actually stopped by there yesterday but I forgot my camera!

D'vine Taste might be the only store I'd care to highlight in Park Slope. For those who don't know, Park Slope is a beautiful neighborhood abutting Prospect Park (the Central Park of Brooklyn). It covers a large area, and its "environs" are ever-expanding as the surrounding fringes get more and more gentrified. Its commercial strip has been pretty much the same for a long time, and it is quite boring. Lots of muffin shops. If you want a muffin, come to Park Slope.

I have never lived in Park Slope, but I've lived in two of its fringes. And the fringes are very interesting. This is the Brooklyn neighborhood thing I was thinking about yesterday.

I used to live in what I thought of as "Gowanus," between Fourth and Fifth Avenue on St. Marks Place. Most people who move there today think of this area as Park Slope, but when I moved to New York thirteen years ago it was most emphatically NOT Park Slope. I don't know if it really had a name, but it was a sort of industrial no-man's land due to its proximity to a stinky industrial trench called the Gowanus Canal. The housing in the area was mostly filled with Latinos, and there was a decidedly Mexican aura about the area. This presence remains, despite the explosive gentrification that has filled Fifth Avenue with boutiques and restaurants. And it is expressed mostly through food, in the products that are available in the bodegas that sit on many of the corners. I'm very grateful for these bodegas, because you can't get Mexican stuff on Seventh Avenue, the main drag in Park Slope. If you need some anchos, or some tomatillos, or serrano peppers, forget it. There isn't a single store that carries them. But just walk two blocks to Fifth Ave, and you can get them literally on almost every corner!

I now live in a different fringe, Prospect Heights, which is a real estate speculator's neighborhood. There didn't used to be any such place. It used to be Crown Heights, which still exists just to the east. But the racial/religious tension in Crown Heights in the late 1980s-ealry 1990s wasn't good for gentrification, hence the new neighborhood. (Actually, for all I know, the name change occurred before the whole Gavin Cato thing.) But anyway, this neighborhood, for whatever reason, has an African/Carribean history, and the place you really see it again is in the food. You wouldn't really know it but for the few Jerk Chicken restaurants on Washington Avenue, and the carribean tubers, plantains, salt cod, tripe, and goat meat that you see even in the corner supermarket.

So the food is the thing that preserves the neighborhood identity, even in the midst of radical change.

Hey doc, have you seen the facelift that's just been given to the Brooklyn museum (VERY close to where I live)?

[phaelon56]

Remind me to tell you something I was going to say about Brownstone Brooklyn neighborhoods.

Okay. Here's the reminder - whay were you going to tell us? My cousin lives in one of the brownstones on Atlantic Ave in Carroll Gardens and I loved the place when I visited (not to mention that her husband put in a Sub ZEro, a six burner Viking and an 8 foot long marble topped peninsula to do his dough and pastry work on). They're both teachers and have lived in Brooklyn forever (by my standards a long time - about 25 years). I was impressed by how they managed to parlay the equity in their original condo (in the old Ex-Lax factory) into the brownstone and did it before the neighborhood took off - at this point folks like them could never afford to move into that neighborhood. I just wish I could wrangle a dinner invitation a bit more often as his food rivals or exceeds the quality of most restaurants in the area.

[SethG]

Anyway, good morning everybody!

This blog is supposed to be about what I'm EATING, right?

So far today I've had:

Three little cups of Moka.

A couple cherries

A bite of one strawberry. (These have just returned to the greenmarket, oh happy day. They're from NJ, and not yet the best, but they taste like strawberries and not like fiberboard so I'm thrilled.)

And a slice of durum bread with some butter. (Somebody please explain to my why my corner grocery, which has nothing gourmet and is simply awful in most respects (except for the interesting carribean products mentioned above), carries Celles sur Belle butter? I can't account for it but it makes me happy.)

The durum bread is holding up fine. I've kept it cut side down on the counter. The preferment (Biga) will make it stay fresh longer than a one-day loaf would.

More to come. This blogging iss much harder than it looks! It takes forever.

[SethG]

Okay. Here's the reminder - whay were you going to tell us?

Oops, we cross posted, Owen! See above.

[SethG]

I forgot something again.

Today I have also eaten one piece of chocolate.

I visited Jacques Torres' chocolate shop late last week. It was something I've been meaning to do before I went back to work. I was just a little disappointed because I wanted to see one of his Pithiviers (almond cream surrounded by puff pastry), but they only sell them on Saturday. So I bought a mixture of dark and milk chocolates. The darks were for me, and the milks were for Robin, who prefers them for some strange reason. But she left this little heart, which has a passionfruit cream center, just sitting there for a few days now. So I gathered that she doesn't want it. At least, I sure hope she doesn't want it, because it's gone!

Edit: I know what you're thinking, and you're right. I am one evil, bad, bad man.

Edited May 25, 2004 by SethG (log)

[bloviatrix]

Is Adriana's Caravan near you? I used to love that place when they were on the UWS.

[SethG]

Is Adriana's Caravan near you? I used to love that place when they were on the UWS.

No-- I never heard of them before. I just looked at their website, and it appears they are in Grand Central Terminal.

[binkyboots]

I'd say you must be in the U.K.! And it sounds like you might be familiar with the Elizabeth David book I mentioned above. /QUOTE]

*gives Seth a gilded apricot*

I am indeed in the uk, Edinburgh to be exact!

I have looked at the elizabeth david book but was scared, wondered if it was more likely to be relegated to the shelf that hold's my granny's mrs beeton... might try and dig up a copy though.

the chestnut honey was lovely, it's got a very pronounced taste which I found people either loved or hated, nobody just said it was ok.

as far as the solids go, it's fairly permanent, I had a gastroplasty operation last year, but on the bright side it's forced me to really value a good soup!

I still cook, for my family (lol, which is large) and for a baking stall I've just started. like I said, bcbs (burned crispy bits) are mine!

passion fruit cream....

argh, edited a million times to fix a quote, result I can't do it

Edited May 25, 2004 by binkyboots (log)

[bloviatrix]

Is Adriana's Caravan near you?  I used to love that place when they were on the UWS.

No-- I never heard of them before. I just looked at their website, and it appears they are in Grand Central Terminal.

They moved to Atlantic Ave when they left this neighborhood. I thought the GCT branch was a second outpost, but maybe they closed the Bklyn location.

[mags]

Good lord, what did they do to the museum? It looks like an alien spaceship has landed on the front steps. All your base are belong to us.

[Moopheus]

They moved to Atlantic Ave when they left this neighborhood. I thought the GCT branch was a second outpost, but maybe they closed the Bklyn location.

I think they do mail order from Brooklyn, and retail at GCT.

[SethG]

Is Adriana's Caravan near you?  I used to love that place when they were on the UWS.

No-- I never heard of them before. I just looked at their website, and it appears they are in Grand Central Terminal.

They moved to Atlantic Ave when they left this neighborhood. I thought the GCT branch was a second outpost, but maybe they closed the Bklyn location.

I just called them. They closed their Brooklyn location four years ago. That's too bad. I was excited there for a minute.

For lunch, I ate the tiny bit of tuna salad that remained from Sunday night.

Then I had a little more baba ghanouj, with pita bread.

Then I had a couple pepperoncini.

But I knew I was just avoiding the inevitable:

RADISH GREENS.

First, I had the radishes. I left them whole as Fergus suggests, although I shaved off parts where I just couldn't get the dirt off. Then I slathered on some good butter and salt, and hey! Those were pretty good! I don't mind radishes in the first place, but I couldn't really wrap my mind around how they'd taste with butter. News flash: everything tastes good with butter. And salt. So there you are.

And the greens were pretty good too. I sliced a young onion (all of these things came from the Saturday greenmarket at Grand Army Plaza in Brooklyn), sprinkled the slices on top of the greens, made up a simple mustard vinaigrette, and dug in. The leaves have substance to them; they're a little heavy. But the flavor is good. A good green flavor, not particularly bitter. I may have it again tomorrow.

[SethG]

I just had a few dates and a microwaved :shame: cup of Moka.

[Pan]

Good lord, what did they do to the museum? It looks like an alien spaceship has landed on the front steps. All your base are belong to us.

I agree. Ugly crap.

My mother and father both grew up near where you're living, Seth. Well, my father lived in different neighborhoods in three boroughs, but my mother grew up on Union St. near the Botanic Gardens. My father belonged to a club at the Brooklyn Museum when it was more than just an art museum - a club of kids who volunteered to be on the first commercial space flight to Mars. But now, he's no longer interested in going.

[SethG]

Good lord, what did they do to the museum? It looks like an alien spaceship has landed on the front steps.  All your base are belong to us.

I agree. Ugly crap.

I disagree. I have some quibbles with the design, but overall I think it's pretty good. Have you guys been there? It's a very inviting space (outside and in). Maybe it's just the novelty of it, but the benches are really drawing people to just come and hang out. That may seem like nothing much, but consider how many modern designs fail at such a goal. And the kids love the fountain and the big steps. The fountain is pure kitsch, sure, but if you don't find it appealing you've got no kid left in you.

[SethG]

Bread for today: Pugliese.

This is a typical Italian bread in that the dough is very wet, making it difficult to shape and handle. These types of doughs form big, relatively squat loaves that are wider than they are high. The crumbs are moist and full of large, irregular holes.

Here you can see the loaves almost done proofing and almost too big for my half-sheet pan:

Right before baking, the dough is dimpled to keep the top from separating from the rest of the dough and ballooning upward. In order to fit both loaves on one shelf, I sort of nudged the loaves into ovals as I dimpled:

Then came the baking. End result, good stuff:

This bread has considerably more depth of flavor than yesterday's durum loaf, probably due to its slow three hour initial rise. The biga also had an additional day of fermentation in the fridge, which helped too I'm sure.

I'm using the dried figs I bought yesterday for a fig/anise bread. I've already mixed the dough. It's rising in the fridge for a bake tomorrow.

[SethG]

Dinner.

In reality, I had two dinners.

First, when Leah ate (before Robin got home), I scammed a couple ravioli and some orange wedges from her. She didn't mind.

And I had some Pugliese.

Later, I had dinner with Robin. We had short rib, of course, and I wish I snapped a pic because tonight's meal was much nicer than last night's. This time I made a celery root puree instead of potatoes. And I pan braised some asparagus (once again from the greenmarket) in butter. So good. Supermarket asparagus is quite good right now, but the asparagus from the greenmarket is still strikingly better.

And I had some more of that same ice cream.

Goodnight, see you tomorrow!

[docsconz]

Seth,

Thanks for the update on Park Slope and the photo of the Museum. I haven't lived in Park Slope since 1982. It has changed quite a bit since then, especially in availability of a variety of foods. While it was never an Italian neighborhood per se, Italian food was probably the most widely available. I can't recall the last time I've been to the Brooklyn Museum, although it too was probably in the early '80's. I used to enjoy going there as a child.

Your breads look good enough to rival my favorite Italian bread bakery - Caputo's on Court St. Their breads and cookies are fantaastic.

[Pan]

My father told me that when he was a child living in Crown Heights, one block would be Jewish, the next Irish and Italian, the next Jewish, etc. But that's a little before your time! (We're talking 1930s and early 40s.)

[hathor]

The Pugliese bread looks really, really, really good. How do you dimple? Just by pinching it? That must be fun....sure the kids enjoy 'dimplin' with dad'!

Have you ever had or made the hard, dry, bagel shaped Puliese bread? It gets dipped in water before eating, then a little olive oil and salt? Its kind of an 'acquired' taste, but very good.

And with the crummy weather today, left over short ribs would be just fine!

[Rebel Rose]

I'm using the dried figs I bought yesterday for a fig/anise bread.

What a great combination! I can't wait to see it.

(The extent of my baking skills would fit in my bread machine, and I've been known to dump the ingredients in without checking to make sure the pan was inserted first .)

I'm learning a lot!

[NeroW]

SethG--

I need the method for that last bread. The Pugliese. Can you pleeeeeeeease post it here, or PM?

Excellent blog. Way f****n' better than mine, in the Dark Days of Blogging.

[Toliver]

Excellent blog.  Way f****n' better than mine, in the Dark Days of Blogging.

NeroW,

I enjoyed your blog for its sheer honesty and audacity (sneaking the food in class!). You did a great job.

[hjshorter]

Excellent blog. Way f****n' better than mine, in the Dark Days of Blogging.

I agree. It's much better than mine was too.

[SethG]

Sorry I'm late today, everybody.

Q & A:

Hathor: you dimple just by poking your fingers into the dough. It is fun. My son is too young to get involved with the bread, but I usually give my daughter her own piece of dough to knead with me, so she can join in too.

NeroW: I could post an "adapted" version of Carol Field's recipe, couldn't I? I don't want to violate the copyright laws. This Pugliese isn't really much different from many rustic Italian breads. The main characteristics include a preferment for flavor and very wet final dough, which produces big holes.

NeroW's comment reminds me that I have failed to mention what I've been drinking during this blog. (Now why would a comment by NeroW remind me of drinking?) If you wish to go back, during the prep and consumption of most dinners on this thread I have been drinking Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. The one exception was Monday night, when we drank the remainder of the bottle of wine that was used in the cooking. It was a cheap Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (sp?). It tasted better with the meat than by itself.

And no, Nero, my blog isn't better than yours; and as I mentioned, I really liked Heather's blog about dealing with the elements.

Docsconz/Pan: I can't see much of any Italian remnant in Crown Heights today, although there may be a deli or two. I bet Park Slope has changed a lot since the early 1980s-- I never saw it until the early 1990s, and since then it has stayed very much the same. The fringe areas around it have changed dramatically, however, in the last five years.

DoverCanyon: the fig/anise bread isn't mine, but Nancy Silverton's. I've never made it before, but I have high hopes. She has such good taste.

Edited May 26, 2004 by SethG (log)