Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

ADNY (Alain Ducasse @ Essex House)


Recommended Posts

Great pics. Particularly the fois. I'm headed to ADNY on the 8th of December. These pics are working as a slow-acting aperitif. Thanks. More. More.

You shouldn't eat grouse and woodcock, venison, a quail and dove pate, abalone and oysters, caviar, calf sweetbreads, kidneys, liver, and ducks all during the same week with several cases of wine. That's a health tip.

Jim Harrison from "Off to the Side"

Link to post
Share on other sites
Several people have mentioned ADNY's $320 truffle menu. Why are truffles so expensive?

Supply and demand.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ellen.

Ellen.

Ellen, Ellen, Ellen.

Thank you.

"I've caught you Richardson, stuffing spit-backs in your vile maw. 'Let tomorrow's omelets go empty,' is that your fucking attitude?" -E. B. Farnum

"Behold, I teach you the ubermunch. The ubermunch is the meaning of the earth. Let your will say: the ubermunch shall be the meaning of the earth!" -Fritzy N.

"It's okay to like celery more than yogurt, but it's not okay to think that batter is yogurt."

Serving fine and fresh gratuitous comments since Oct 5 2001, 09:53 PM

Link to post
Share on other sites

One more garde manger item before we get back to hot food. This is the way they were putting out the tuna tartare/carpaccio the night I was photographing it. The dish changes, though. The night we had it, it was a big square on a big square plate. Another night when we saw it go out to a table it was round and filled the whole plate. This is the first time I saw it plated with those little chunks of seared tuna.

gallery_122_337_1100798140.jpg

Ellen Shapiro

www.byellen.com

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, Ellen, these are superb photos. You are certainly whetting my appetite for Ducasse.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

Link to post
Share on other sites

Garde manger is usually the station where new cooks just out of school start - right? I doubt this is the case with ADNY - any idea what kind of experience ADNY garde manger cooks have?

Ellen, I've always enjoyed your photographs - keep them coming...

johnjohn

Link to post
Share on other sites
One more garde manger item before we get back to hot food. This is the way they were putting out the tuna tartare/carpaccio the night I was photographing it. The dish changes, though. The night we had it, it was a big square on a big square plate. Another night when we saw it go out to a table it was round and filled the whole plate. This is the first time I saw it plated with those little chunks of seared tuna.

gallery_122_337_1100798140.jpg

Ellen, I can't see the photo too clearly on my screen. A few questions: Is that a piece of fruit in the middle? What is the larger square undernath the carpaccio?And what is the sauce/liquid around the edge? This might be my favorite plate, next to the quail.

thanks again for these pics.

"After all, these are supposed to be gutsy spuds, not white tablecloth social climbers."

Link to post
Share on other sites

You're having trouble seeing it because it's underexposed and out of focus, but I posted the photo anyway because I thought it had informational value. Let me do the best I can to get closer in on what you're asking about:

gallery_122_337_1100812116.jpg

As I mentioned, we've now seen this dish in three versions, so I can't be sure, but I think it's all fish. I think the underlayer is a tuna and herb salad based on cooked tuna, and I think the pearly colored thing on top is a piece of raw fish with a little sauce drizzled on it. The dark lines around the edges are very old balsamic vinegar.

Ellen Shapiro

www.byellen.com

Link to post
Share on other sites
You're having trouble seeing it because it's underexposed and out of focus, but I posted the photo anyway because I thought it had informational value. Let me do the best I can to get closer in on what you're asking about:

gallery_122_337_1100812116.jpg

As I mentioned, we've now seen this dish in three versions, so I can't be sure, but I think it's all fish. I think the underlayer is a tuna and herb salad based on cooked tuna, and I think the pearly colored thing on top is a piece of raw fish with a little sauce drizzled on it. The dark lines around the edges are very old balsamic vinegar.

Ellen, could you highlight the centerpiece that you think is raw fish, please? That is difficult to decipher, although the qualioty of the photo looks fine to me.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm nearing the end of the food photos. I have a few more, and if there are any specific requests I can see if I have something filed away, but I'm going to switch to a few non-food photos for a change of pace.

Before the service I wandered around the dining room and took a few snapshots. I figure most people haven't seen the place, given that about 65 people a day eat there out of 5 billion in the world, so this is the general environment. I didn't have any big lights or a wide angle lens, but I hope you can at least get a sense of the place.

These are a couple of different banquettes set for the dinner service. You'll notice there are some differences. The restaurant has a large collection of little art objects and table decorations and each table is seen as a composition by the staff. One of these tables has a bronze statue on it called "Cityman" and the other has those little trees. As far as I know every single thing on the table is custom crafted for Ducasse: you can't get those wine glasses or those plates anywhere. The banquettes are made of a very cushy "like buttah" sueded leather in those festive colors and if you're a woman on either edge of the banquette bench they put a little stool next to you on which you can rest your handbag (I kid you not).

gallery_122_337_1100834797.jpg

gallery_122_337_1100834849.jpg

These are some non-banquette tables. These are also nice to sit at. A lot of people request them over the banquettes. I generally like chairs better than banquettes, but both arrangements are very comfortable here. There really aren't any bad tables in this dining room; it's more a question of preference.

gallery_122_337_1100834774.jpg

A visual focal point of the dining room is this sculpture by one of my least favorite sculptors in the world: Arman. Love him or hate him (and most people feel one way or the other) it is a dramatic centerpiece for the room.

gallery_122_337_1100834815.jpg

Ellen Shapiro

www.byellen.com

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, Ellen!

Great photos, all looks wonderful.

If you're taking requests, I would love to see some of the dessert plates.

P.S. Do you ever go to MIX?

I would love to see some of those plates.

Thanks again for posting these pix.

2317/5000

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ellen has an appointment to visit the ADNY pastry kitchen in a couple of weeks in order to photograph some dessert production.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

Link to post
Share on other sites
A visual focal point of the dining room is this sculpture by one of my least favorite sculptors in the world: Arman. Love him or hate him (and most people feel one way or the other) it is a dramatic centerpiece for the room.

gallery_122_337_1100834815.jpg

Ack, he's the Dale Chihuly of sculpture! It looks like he Mod-Podged a Jackson Pollack onto an entire brass section. That can't be good for one's digestion. I wonder if people request to be seated away from it. I'm surprised no one's mentioned it yet in this thread.

But back to the photos, which are so wonderful, Ellen. What did they make from the round cookie cutters through the tubes of pasta? That looks like a great low-tech application that could yield wonderful results. Any idea how they get the pasta to stick together? (I know my grandmother could have done it: you should have had her rice.)

Link to post
Share on other sites

This lamb dish illustrates the more rustic end of the ADNY menu. It's meat and potatoes served with just enough panache to remind you of where you are. The lamb is browned in butter and the potatoes are finished in a rich lamb jus before being plated.

gallery_122_337_1100872605.jpg

gallery_122_337_1100872658.jpg

gallery_122_337_1100872715.jpg

I'm pretty much at the end of the "roll" here. This weekend I'll try to get some answers to some of the questions that have been asked upthread. And, as Fat Guy mentioned, if all goes well I'll be going back at a later date to visit the pastry kitchen.

Ellen Shapiro

www.byellen.com

Link to post
Share on other sites

Fat Guy and I had dinner at ADNY with Christian and Mary Delouvrier during ADNY's first year in business. Approximately one year before that, if I have my timeline correct, Lespinasse had received four stars from Ruth Reichl in the New York Times. What I remember most vividly from that dinner, in addition to a dreamy sea urchin royale the likes of which I never tasted before or since, were Christian's comments about Ducasse the chef and the restaurant. Chefs, especially the good ones, can be brutally honest with themselves. Christian was effusive in his praise for Ducasse's food. "He's the guy," and "If only we could do this," were the types of comments he kept making. Christian was invited in for a tour of the kitchen and must have spent half an hour in there. He emerged looking like a kid who had spent the night locked inside a Baskin Robbins. And since at the time everybody in the world except for my husband and Christian was sure that ADNY would be out of business within a year, Mary and I observed that maybe Christian would get the restaurant back someday. Nobody could have predicted the way it would happen, but it happened.

I'm making a point here somewhere. Yes, it's that at or near Lespinasse's peak under Delouvrier we know that Delouvrier would have told anybody who asked that ADNY was the better restaurant. He probably also would have said, if asked, although nobody would have thought to ask, that working with Ducasse he could make ADNY even better than it was. My personal opinion is that he has done that.

Ellen Shapiro

www.byellen.com

Link to post
Share on other sites

With such a small menu - realistically - how many times a season do we think a fan of Delouvrier or Ducasse might eat at ADNY?

"Gimme a pig's foot, and a bottle of beer..." Bessie Smith

Flickr Food

"111,111,111 x 111,111,111 = 12,345,678,987,654,321" Bruce Frigard 'Winesonoma' - RIP

Link to post
Share on other sites
Just got an e-mail saying ADNY is now on OpenTable.com

It has actually been there a while — I believe a few weeks, at least. Although ADNY is apparently filling up most nights, reservations aren't that hard to come by. I did a search on the next available date, and November 22nd came back.

MobyP wrote:

With such a small menu - realistically - how many times a season do we think a fan of Delouvrier or Ducasse might eat at ADNY?

If you ate there once a month, you still wouldn't exhaust the possibilities. The menu shows four appetizers and four apiece of fish & meat entrées.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...