Comments on the Parisian restaurant digests

[John Talbott]

I, for one, really missed the digest this week.

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Patience. I'm awaiting one missing link, so to speak, and it should go up later today.

John

[John Talbott]

I, for one, really missed the digest this week.

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Patience. I'm awaiting one missing link, so to speak, and it should go up later today.

John

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Last week's Digest is up.

For those addicted to reading the Digest a particular day, a summer warning; there will be delays some weeks and when things really slow at the height of summer, weeks will be combined as has happened the last two years. Happy Summer.

John

[pirate]

The Week of May 22nd, 2006

reviews French-inspired) plus the three BLT restaurants and the Brasserie Ruhlmann of Laurent Tourondel (that it calls a sort of little Coupole in the heart of Gramercy) as well as the French Culinary Institute.

The Brasserie Ruhlmann is in Rockefeller Center (45 Rockefeller Plaza) not Gramercy area.. I ate there last week and the food and service were distinctly poor to mediocre. I haven't eaten at La Coupole recently but unless it's declined precipitously in recent years it's much better.

[Felice]

The Week of June 5th, 2006

Wednesday, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban wrote his major review around the Italian resto/pizzeria in the 3rd San:. 

In a stunning but ironic announcement {tipped to me by Felice}, Le Figaro said that owner Hachette has announced that Zurban would cease publishing, as of this issue.  The reason: the publication went to only 46,500 folk, not the 70,000 that was called for in their business plan.

I have to say that I am extreamly sad to think that I won't be picking up a copy of Zurban tomorrow morning on my commute to work. I have read it faithfully for the past few years and never miss an issue. I really can't believe that it didn't have a bigger audience. The first thing I do is turn to the restaurant section to read Sebastien Demorand's column and will certainly miss it. It is (or was) one of the only places to find ethnic restaurants or the more off-the-beaten-track type places that the other newspapers don't always mention. Luckily the guide is still going to appear as far as I know.

[Daddy-A]

In Wednesday’s Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin gave the lead, photo but only one-heart in his “C’est nouveau” to Il Carpaccio, Hotel Royal Monceau, 35-37, ave Hoche in the 8th, 01.42.99.88.00, open everyday and attributes his low mark to the chef’s cooking that is like the Italians’ soccer play – catenacio = defensive rather than interesting (langoustine salad, calamari and risotto, fraises des bois, running one about 100 €.)

Sounds like sour grapes to me. And what would he find interesting? Having the chef come out and head-butt you in the chest?

A.

[John Talbott]

In Wednesday’s Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin gave the lead, photo but only one-heart in his “C’est nouveau” to Il Carpaccio, Hotel Royal Monceau, 35-37, ave Hoche in the 8th, 01.42.99.88.00, open everyday and attributes his low mark to the chef’s cooking that is like the Italians’ soccer play – catenacio = defensive rather than interesting (langoustine salad, calamari and risotto, fraises des bois, running one about 100 €.)

Sounds like sour grapes to me. And what would he find interesting? Having the chef come out and head-butt you in the chest?

A.

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In all fairness, this appeared July 5 and was probably written a week or more before, so I suspect it had to do with the widely-regarded and commented on Italian style rather than any anticipatory or posthoculatory comment.

[fresh_a]

FYI , Constant has sold his fish/seafood restaurant Les Fables de la Fontaine ....all I know is that the owner's name is David...

[Laidback]

FYI , Constant has sold his fish/seafood restaurant Les Fables de la Fontaine ....all I know is that the owner's name is David...

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David Boutreau was the pleasant young Maitre D' at Le Violon d'Ingres for a couple of years and has been associated with C. Constant in some capacity for a number of years. My info is that early this year he bought one third along with the chef, leaving one third to M. Constant, who is still very much in evidence in all 3 St. Dominique spots running back and forth in his new casual attire. Let me state that my information is probably not nearly as reliable as that of a concierge at one of the world's greatest hotels.

[John Talbott]

Since I'll be late in posting this and last week's Digest d/t technical problems, I thought I'd give folks a prequel of a new place featured in both Monday's Le Fooding and Wednesday's Figaroscope's C'est nouveau; it is called Spring, it's at 28, rue de La Tour d'Auvergne in the 9th, 01 45 96 05 72, it's either open for dinner weekdays and sometimes for lunch (Le Fooding) or everyday except Sundays (Figaroscope) and it's chef'd by an American from Chicago – Daniel Rose - who has trained with Constant, Bocuse and Alleno and more recently Aizpitarte. I'll check it out next week and report ASAP.

[Laidback]

I am sorry to hear of the demise of Au C'Amelot. Do you know the name of the replacement and is Didier Varnier still associated with it and if not what is the skinny on what he will be doing next? These questions may require the attention of our own omniscient Fresh_A . Incidentally, I just discovered his interesting new(?), marvelously opinionated blog.

Edited November 21, 2006 by Laidback (log)

[John Talbott]

I am sorry to hear of the demise of Au C'Amelot. Do you know the name of the  replacement and is Didier Varnier still associated with it and if not what is the skinny on what he will be doing next? These questions may require the attention of our own omniscient Fresh_A .  Incidentally, I just discovered his interesting new(?), marvelously opinionated  blog.

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Yes, indeed, the new resto is called Au Petit Monsieur, wouldn't yah know the one week I fail to put up the link you'd want it.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Last week, in France-Amerique, Claire Derville wrote about the six Parisian chefs who ran the NYC Marathon, the first five with faster times than Lance Armstrong: they were Thierry Breton, Yves Camdeborde, Thierry Faucher, Bertrand Bluy, Flora Mikula + Rodolphe Paquin. {Pretty impressive, eh?"

What is really impressive is that, according to Bluy, they arrived in NYC four days early and stuffed themselves at as many good addresses as they had time for before the run. I've heard of carbo-loading, but Daniel, Jean-Georges, et al?

[John Talbott]

I would like to ask member/readers who find errors in my Digest to forward them to me so I may correct the facts. Today Fresh_a pointed out that I'd mistyped Sens for Sers, perhaps forgivable, but disastrous if one is relying on the correct information. In the "Hache Menu" I was digesting, Francois Simon was complaining about the exhorbitant prices of the Hotel de Sers not those at the Pourcel's Sens in the 8th and/or Levellois-Perret {which I have found excessive}.

[VivreManger]

Bittman failed to mention that Huitrerie Regis will be closed for most of the summer, from mid-July to the end of August. Rather bizarre to run an article on a place that will be temporarily closing within a few weeks.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

re the August 27 edition: John reports that "Philippe Toinard is quite critical of the food served, e.g., scallops in June and its preparation – chicken with butter-drenched frites but likes the prices, the wine list and the pleasant service."

When I read this kind of evaluation, I have to ask, "What is the rationale behind patronizing a restaurant whose food is known to be wrong?" Certainly someone offers proper food of some genre, decent wine and sympa service for the same price. Am I just too critical?

[John Talbott]

re the August 27 edition: John reports that "Philippe Toinard is quite critical of the food served, e.g., scallops in June and its preparation – chicken with butter-drenched frites but likes the prices, the wine list and the pleasant service."

When I read this kind of evaluation, I have to ask, "What is the rationale behind patronizing a restaurant whose food is known to be wrong?"  Certainly someone offers proper food of some genre, decent wine and sympa service for the same price.  Am I just too critical?

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Yup, I was reporting/digesting the article, warts and all. It turned me off too.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

... I was reporting/digesting the article, warts and all.

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Please know, John, that we are never, ever attacking the messenger.

[fresh_a]

I thought the Ritz New Year's Eve menu was a famous 2007€ .....? Last year it was 2006€, and the year before 2005€........

[Felice]

March’s Saveur featured an article by our own Clotilde Dusoulier on butter as used by Benoit Bordier, written while he was still at Jean.

I would love to read this, French or American Saveur?

[John Talbott]

March’s Saveur featured an article by our own Clotilde Dusoulier on butter as used by Benoit Bordier, written while he was still at Jean.

I would love to read this, French or American Saveur?

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The US one, I'll get it to you.

[Laidback]

John , what do your sources have to say about "Jean" since Benoit Bordier has left?

[John Talbott]

John , what do your sources have to say about "Jean" since Benoit Bordier has left?

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My infamous sources only indicate that he will be cooking in March at Les Etangs de Corot, the Relais & Chateau in the Ville d’Avray, between here and Versailles. They have a beautiful website but it doesn't say whether his gig will be extended.

[OAKGLEN]

Goumard seems to be following the Constant example, lower prices and a more balanced (less emphasis on seafood) menu with greater focus on prix-fixe dining. This is excellent for those of us who are looking for weekend options. The new menu looks interesting. Goumard has never been popular with the internet/tourist crowd; hope this works for them.

[John Talbott]

Goumard seems to be following the Constant example, lower prices and a more balanced (less emphasis on seafood) menu with greater focus on prix-fixe dining.  This is excellent for those of us who are looking for weekend options. The new menu looks interesting.  Goumard has never been popular with the internet/tourist crowd; hope this works for them.

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Bistrot 121 is another example of the lower prices and dropped voiturier.

[fresh_a]

Marriott restaurant ?!? Oh man, have they changed the chef, and the deco...?