Edinburgh purveyors

[rlibkind]

My wife and I will be on holiday in Scotland beginning next Tuesday, 18 May. We will have a self-catering flat in central Edinburgh for a week with modest kitchen facilities. Although I don't intend to do major cooking, I certainly wish to stock up on good things to eat. Specifically:

• Bacon, sausages, salamis, hams, smoked meats, etc.
  
• Smoked fish
  
• Cheeses
  
• Fruits and vegetables
  
• Breads
  
• Baked sweets and other treats
  

I would appreciate counsel & advice as to where I may procure the best.

I've omitted fresh fin and shellfish because we'll be staying in a fisherman's B&B on Loch Torridon for three days, and I expect to avail myself of its waters' bounty, particularly crustaceans and bivalves.

As best as I can determine, I will not be in Edinburgh for the twice-monthly Saturday farmers' market. Are there any other food purveying events, activities or venues I should make a point of visiting?

Any responses to the above prior to our Monday departure from Philadelphia would be appreciated.

[Gary Marshall]

valvonna & crolla - italian deli of extremely high repute

[Edit to add link - mp]

Edited May 12, 2004 by MobyP (log)

[Suzi Edwards]

i'll second the valvona and crolla thing. amazing. best tomatoes i have eaten in the uk.

[spanky]

I J Mellis -- huge range of cheeses and sundries (including Poilane bread), lovely service.

[Adam Balic]

My wife and I will be on holiday in Scotland beginning next Tuesday, 18 May. We will have a self-catering flat in central Edinburgh for a week with modest kitchen facilities. Although I don't intend to do major cooking, I certainly wish to stock up on good things to eat. Specifically:

• Bacon, sausages, salamis, hams, smoked meats, etc.
  
• Smoked fish
  
• Cheeses
  
• Fruits and vegetables
  
• Breads
  
• Baked sweets and other treats
  

I would appreciate counsel & advice as to where I may procure the best.

I've omitted fresh fin and shellfish because we'll be staying in a fisherman's B&B on Loch Torridon for three days, and I expect to avail myself of its waters' bounty, particularly crustaceans and bivalves.

As best as I can determine, I will not be in Edinburgh for the twice-monthly Saturday farmers' market. Are there any other food purveying events, activities or venues I should make a point of visiting?

Any responses to the above prior to our Monday departure from Philadelphia would be appreciated.

Good, if exspensive, meat from Crombies (excellent sausages and Shetland lamb) in Broughton st.

"Something fishy" in the same street does good oaked smoked salmon, kippers and various styles of haddock.

Also in Broughton st is the very good wine store " Villeneuve wines" (is in a basement shop on the northside).

"V&C" on Elm Row is consistantly voted in the top five UK delis. It is very good for some things, but the condition cheese can be a let down. They import veg from Milan market, although the tomatoes are proberbly the best in Edinburgh, they certainly aren't the best in Milan. Decent, if not great bread, but better bread (best in Edinburgh by far) is to be had at a french deli in Cannon Mills (forgot the name), which also has very good french meats, pate and salumi etc. Also in Cannon Mills is the sometimes mad Spanish deli "Dionika" which sells excellent Pata negra etc.

Cheese - go to Mellis, several branches, but if you go to the Stockbridge store you can go to the Butcher "George Bowers" for excellent game, wild boar lamb, bacon etc and Armstrongs the fishmonger again good smoked fish and excellent fresh produce. The butcher and fishmonger are on Raeburn place, which also contains a very good Deli (Herbies). Near here is Raeburn wines, which sells proberly the most interesting selection of wine in Edinburgh.

Veg? Wrong country, sorry. Try 'Tattie shaws' in Leith walk. Also on Leithwalk are two very good "Chinese" supermarkets - craving for Durian? No problem.

For cakes etc, try the French place in Cannonmills (it is not far from the botanical gardens, which are very good at the moment).

[spanky]

I believe the French deli in Canonmills is called Au Gourmand (and it also has a cafe).

[rlibkind]

Thanks to all for your swift replies.

Adam, thank you for confirming what I feared: fresh fruits and vegetables would be problematic, both in terms of food culture and the time of year. We will be staying near to Boughton Street, so that was particularly helpful. And a visit to Stockbridge might also be in order. Hmmmm, bacon!

[Adam Balic]

I believe the French deli in Canonmills is called Au Gourmand (and it also has a cafe).

That's the one, very good French cheese. There is also a Honey shop in Bow street (off the grassmarket).

Going down hill on Broughton St, there is a corner store on the roundabout (next to the brothel, ah sorry, all night sauna) that sells goodish veg. and fruit, but will rare exceptions veg is not great. You could try Harvey Nicks for some veg, like la ratte potatos etc, but the place isn't brilliant.

Every 1st and 3rd saturday in the month there is a farmers market on Castle terrace.

Bacon can be very good and there are numerous types to try (try some of the Scottish cures like Ayrshire cure and Ayrshire sweetcure - both un-smoked so you should get some smoked bacon as well).

Oh and Crombies product on of the less offensive, approachable haggis around. It is actually good.

Edited May 12, 2004 by Adam Balic (log)

[spanky]

And now I come to think of it you can get some very nice cakes, chocolates and many different types of tea at Plaisir du Chocolat on the Canongate (the lower part of the Royal Mile).

Have a great trip! The weather's glorious today.

Cheers,

Spanky

[PS]

The Honey Shop in Victoria Street has closed I think.

There's a decent fish shop in Marchmont - Eddie Tse's Fish market in Warrender Park Road. I think it got the thumbs up from Rick Stein.