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Sushi Yasuda vs. Kuruma Zushi


Celine

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I believe that the shrimp werre in fact the shiro ebi that David mentioned.

As far as the itemization, I asked for a list of what I had eaten. They assumed I wanted an itemized price list which they supplied, but which I have misplaced (thus the lack of specific detail). As for the price, I was served a lot more exotic and foreign fish at Kuruma. Yasuda sources a lot of his fish from here in the US. I also ate a lot mor toro at Kuruma. I can't really say that I'm too surprised that Kuruma was more expensive, but at this point to my relatively unsophisticated Sushi palate I cannot say that the difference if any was worth it to me.

As far as the newbies and the regulars, it may very well be that I benefitted from that practice at Yasuda since I was there with JJ who is at least somewhat known to the retsaurant and Yasuda.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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I have never paid over 200 a person and even at that price point it has never come out to more than 6-7 per piece of fish.

Am I reading this right? Seven pieces for $200!?

JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!

www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

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Thank you, tanabutler -- I can finally catch my breath. :smile:

As far as the newbies and the regulars, it may very well be that I benefitted from that practice at Yasuda since I was there with JJ who is at least somewhat known to the retsaurant and Yasuda.

That's true. Yasuda knows that I'm cheap, so maybe he assumed my friends are as well. :smile:

I've only been to Kuruma once, but I remember its menu being very limited. Maybe it's only during omakase that Uezu brings out the rare stuff. Much of Yasuda's fish might be from the US, but it is by no means ordinary. Not only does he serve seven types of yellowtail, he serves hard-to-find parts of fish, like mirugai himo. On a given night, you can eat one piece of toro from Long Island and one from Spain. There was a time in Japan, I've read, when sushi-ya were only considered traditional if they served fish from Tokyo Bay. And there are still sushi-ya that refuse to serve uni and ikura, like Miyako Zushi, in Asakusa, because they consider it too new. It's often said that Italian restaurants in America are unable to serve "authentic" food, because Italian food in Italy is so highly regional and uses ingredients only found in Italy. That's why Yasuda is innovative within the tradition of sushi. By highlighting local fish, he creates truly American sushi, not Americanized sushi.

Sorry, Soba. It's closed on Sunday.

JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!

www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

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I have never paid over 200 a person and even at that price point it has never come out to more than 6-7 per piece of fish.

Am I reading this right? Seven pieces for $200!?

My mistake. 6-7 dollars per piece.

For that $200 we had 34 pieces of fish. And worth every penny. Sorry for the confusion...

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It cost me $110 plus tax and tip for an omakase that included 23 pieces of sushi and sake as well as tea.

Great post and excellent photos.

I'm curious, is it customary to tip when you sit at the counter at a Japanese restraurant?

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Doc, is it possible that your two "toro" shots are different cuts of the same creature, and not different prep?

Tana, that most certainly is possible. :wink: When it comes to this level of Sushi dining I am a newbie.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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It cost me $110 plus tax and tip for an omakase that included 23 pieces of sushi and sake as well as tea.

Great post and excellent photos.

I'm curious, is it customary to tip when you sit at the counter at a Japanese restraurant?

Very good question, Hiroyuki. I assumed that it is so, though that may have been presumptuous. I would be very happy to find out otherwise as it takes my costs from the outermost stratosphere.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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I'm a newbie because I've never quite had sushi at this level before. I had an "omakase" menu at Nobu, but that was garbage compared to these. That isn't even close to being in the same league as these restaurants.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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I'm a newbie because I've never quite had sushi at this level before. I had an "omakase" menu at Nobu, but that was garbage compared to these. That isn't even close to being in the same league as these restaurants.

It's also not sushi.

JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!

www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

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I'm a newbie because I've never quite had sushi at this level before. I had an "omakase" menu at Nobu, but that was garbage compared to these. That isn't even close to being in the same league as these restaurants.

It's also not sushi.

Well, could you be a little more helpful?

Never mind, I'll Google.

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Bam!

"Let the chef decide! Astonish me!"

But how that distinguishes itself from sushi, in a sushi bar, requires further Googling.

I see other meanings:

"Please choose for me."

"Your menu will be the chef's choice."

So, chef's tasting at a sushi bar. Yes? Seemingly. With other additions, presumably. Still sushi, though. At least, not NOT sushi?

Edited by tanabutler (log)
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It's also not sushi.

Well, could you be a little more helpful?

Never mind, I'll Google.

I'm sorry, tanabutler. I was responding to doc's

I had an "omakase" menu at Nobu, but that was garbage compared to these. That isn't even close to being in the same league as these restaurants.

I meant to say that Nobu's omakase ("chef's choice", typically reserved for the sushi bar), which includes cold and hot dishes, is not sushi.

JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!

www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

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pictures of Yasuda where I had such fond memories. :wub: Thanks doc. I enjoyed seeing yourself, jogoode and Bond girl in the flesh in addition to reading your posts here. Its so fun to put faces to names.

I have not been to Kurumazushi (at $200 a head it may be awhile) but Yasuda was a magical experience.

glad you found the place that jj, turned me and other on to here.

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A meal at the hands of a great sushi chef is above all a personal experience. In that regard, the observer affects the observed and measurements are as uncertain as Schroedinger's cat. Who but God and Yasuda really knows what is in all of Yasuda's little drawers? The "science" of restaurant reviewing is predicated on generalization and the belief that the cassoulet will be the same tomorrow as it was today. The figurative cassoulet is not only different every day at a great sushi restaurant; it may not even be on the menu, or it may not be on the menu but it may be available, or it may be available but you may not be allowed to have it, or it may be available but the sushi chef may not choose it for you. As Yasuda's literature suggests, "Yasuda creates individual relationships tailoring his work to each person's needs."

Moreover, the first meal is only the beginning. It is the relationship with the sushi chef -- as meaningful to some as the relationship with one's psychoanalyst, lover or priest, and possibly more expensive than all three combined -- that gives shape and direction to a succession of experiences in context. JJ is at a certain point on a continuum in his relationship with Yasuda, a reality with which Yasuda is conversant. As JJ acquires experience, maturity and wealth, Yasuda will bring him along a certain arc appropriate only to JJ.

You can eat lunch at Yasuda or Kuruma for $20, and at either you can have a tasting of rarefied cuts of imported fish for $500. So what? More expensive fish is not necessarily better; it is often just rarer. This is true not only as between species, and not only as between specimens, but also as between pieces of the same fish: the fattiest toro is, to me, often less delicious than a less fatty piece.

All is not relative. Some things in sushi simply must be done right. Getting those things right is an accomplishment in itself. But once that standard is met -- and very few restaurants do meet it -- everything else is in flux.

I like Sushi Yasuda better than Kuruma Zushi. I've simply had a better connection with Yasuda, and I think most (though not all) Americans are likely to on account of his gregariousness. So what? It doesn't make Yasuda better. Indeed, while I recommend Yasuda nine times out of ten to those wishing to have "the ultimate sushi experience" there is also that one time out of ten when my inner voice says, you know what, this person is going to like Kuruma better. I expect, after I make it to Masa, I might add it to the roster, if not for me then as a place I'd recommend to certain people who are likely to be compatible.

And neither Yasuda nor Kuruma is my favorite, because my sushi chef works elsewhere. He happens to be Shin Tsujimura, one of the Nobu chefs, who incidentally was one of Yasuda's influences when they, as well as several other of the top American sushi chefs, worked at Hatsuhana. When Shin and I are in our world together, everything else in life fades into the background and it's all about the moment. In that moment, the right $3.50 piece of sushi is far more valuable than the wrong $35 piece.

Don't worry about which is better. Find your sushi chef, your guide, and take the journey together.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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The Zen of Sushi. This makes sense, although evidence of quality is apparent or not in any Sushi restaurant so therefore one sushi restaurant can be demonstrably better than another. Beyond a certain level of quality is where I believe your point, Steven has validity. Both Kuruma and Yasuda are beyond that and at the point at which preference really becomes entirely subjective.

As for Nobu, JJ, you are correct, it wasn't really sushi, although there was sushi on the omakase as I recall. Nevertheles, that was one of the most disapppointing high end meals I've ever had. I have no desire to return, although I can't say that I have ever experienced the world of Shin Tsujimura.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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That's very profound, Shaw. The four or five hours on the couch each week plus the Prozac seem to be helping you. :)

Jason Perlow, Co-Founder eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters

Foodies who Review South Florida (Facebook) | offthebroiler.com - Food Blog (archived) | View my food photos on Instagram

Twittter: @jperlow | Mastodon @jperlow@journa.host

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The focus on Nobu is less sushi/sashimi and more of the fusion-y preparations that people experience in the first and middle parts of the omakase.

I had my Nobu experience a while back and it was all right. I won't be returning though. (The credit card snafu didn't help either.)

Soba

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I probably shouldn't have brought Nobu into this topic since it isn't exactly apples and apples, but it was the closest thing in terms of reputation, style and price compared to Kuruma and Yasuda that I had previously been to. My comments about Nobu were probably too strong, although I still have no desire to return there, especially with Yasuda a comparably priced and better alternative in my book. Anyone willing or able to compare these to Jewel Bako or any other alternatives?

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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Thatb was a wonderful experience. Thanks Doc and JJ for getting me out for a great meal. I have no comparison as I never been to Kuruma, but sushi Yasuda is definitely good value for its price and quality compared to somewhere like Jewel Bako. I especially like the fact that you can really savor the fish and the distinctive character of each pieces of sushi. The problem with places like Nobu is that everything is drowned in some kind of sauce that everything invariably ended up tasting the same.

There was also a great deal of thought that went into the tasting experience. We started out with medium fatty fish and then our palate get taken to a rich creamy high fat toro, from there we were tickled by something flavorful like spanish Mackrel with breaks of something sweet and crunchy (I suspect it was a clam of some sort).....It was a long meal that did not bore me. The problem is I had to go back to work after that and sounding coherent when you are in the throes of sushi euphoria is a challenge indeed.

Ya-Roo Yang aka "Bond Girl"

The Adventures of Bond Girl

I don't ask for much, but whatever you do give me, make it of the highest quality.

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Well, they're closed until 1/3/2005 as of tomorrow, and weekends are better for me.....oh well, have to wait one more month. This will be my inaugural SY experience, the first of hopefully many more visits. Have a reservation the weekend of January 15. Can't wait.

Soba

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It's also not sushi.

Well, could you be a little more helpful?

Never mind, I'll Google.

I'm sorry, tanabutler. I was responding to doc's

I had an "omakase" menu at Nobu, but that was garbage compared to these. That isn't even close to being in the same league as these restaurants.

I meant to say that Nobu's omakase ("chef's choice", typically reserved for the sushi bar), which includes cold and hot dishes, is not sushi.

Thanks, Jogoode. Gotcha.

I just didn't want to go into a sushi bar and say, "Can I have an order of the omakase, please?"

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I just didn't want to go into a sushi bar and say, "Can I have an order of the omakase, please?"

Moriawase okudasai, kept me not only from starving, but well fed in many food bars/counters in Japan, particularly places that served assorted things on skewers be they yakitori or deep fried. That and birru. It wiped the smirk off the face of one twelve year old who was sure we were headed back to the hotel dining room before we found three three adjacent beer cartons to sit on at an open air yakitori counter under the elevated train. Basically, it means "please bring me a selection." There are times and places where omekase is just too formal and pretentious.

Sushi Yasuda is not one of those places, but Yasuda san is a far more informal guy than one might suspect from the rather elegant interior of his sushi bar, or from the rave reviews. Down home guy or good ole boy might even be better descriptions. He describes himself as coming from the suburbs of Tokyo and then corrects that to the Brooklyn of Tokyo. His English is good, if maybe not as good as he thinks it is. "What's good," seems as appropriate a way to start ordering as anything else and "how ya doing" seems more apt than a deep bow.

I'm wondering what the experience is like sitting at a table and ordering a twenty or thirty dollar sushi set and a couple of beers is like. I can't imagine sitting at the bar and doing that, but I can imagine spending more, or less than the roughly $250 we spent for two at the bar earlier this month. It's hard to sit at the bar and not get involved with Yasuda. One of the things I found interesting was his practice of putting two or four pieces of sushi next to each other, often with instructions to eat them in a certain order. I noticed that he often combined a specific fish with different fishes for different diners and that it's quickly an interactive affair, not just a matter of an assortment or even the chef's tasting menus.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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