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DIGEST: Saveur

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Saveur, October 2006

First: Todd Coleman relates how his Butt Rub got mistaken for bomb materials on the flight back from Florida.

Fare:

A Backpacker's Banquet: Andy Isaacson explains how he rolled peanut butter, bananas and sticky rice into the "falang roll" of Laos

Recipe: Falang Roll (foreigner roll)

Truculent but Tender: Paul Adams describes eating an unfriendly llama.

G.I. Grub: Todd Coleman admits he wanted to be a military chef, and reviews How to Feed an Army: Recipes and Lore from the Front Lines, by J.G. Lewin and P.J. Huff.

Recipe: Shit on a Shingle (creamed chipped beef on toast)

What Would James Bond Think? Egregious wine and booze blunders in popular spy novels.

Agenda: California Avocado Festival in Carpinteria, Calif., Oct. 6-8; Dan Siruna—"day of the fish" in Budva, Montenegro, Oct. 7; Oktoberfest started Oct. 12, 1810, in Munich; Festivals Acadiens in Lafayatte, La., Oct. 13-15; Turkey Testicle Festival in Byron, Ill., Oct. 14; Doburoku Matsuri (sake festival) in Shirakwago, Japan, Oct. 14-19; Foire de la Chataigne (chestnut fest) in Mourjou, France, Oct. 21-22; Joe Carcione, radio promoter of "vedja-tobbles", born Oct. 31, 1914

One Good Bottle: Oakville Ranch Napa Valley Field Blend 2004 ($30) is "juicy, fruity, vaguely Italian-tasting"

Book Review: Kenneth Wapner reviews Hiroko Shimbo’s The Sushi Experience—it's very thorough and packed with useful tips.

The Saveur List: 5 Food Towns: markets and restaurants in Apalichola, Fla., Ashland, Ore., Burlington, Vt., Chapel Hill, N.C., and Lawrence, Kan.

Kitchenwise: Knot's Landing star John Pleshette also happens to be a practiced cook. His super-organized kitchen has a custom maple center table, lots of pull-out drawers, custom shelves for wine and books, and a corner just for baking.

Cellar: Mistress of the Dark

Powerful aglianico softens into elegance with age. By John Winthrop Haeger

Tasting notes: 12 aglianico-based wines from Campania and Basilicata, from Feudi di San Gregorio Irpinia Rubrato 2003 ($19; "a lean, inky integration of black cherry and mineral flavors") to De Conciliis Paestum Zero 2003 ($100; "incense, bay laurel, dates…on the nose; then ripe, rich, sweet, velvety…on the midpalate").

Essay: Dilbert's Kitchen: Colman Andrews laments the damage vituperative reality-chef Gordon Ramsay has done to the image of fine cooking.

Memories: Honeymoon in Yerevan: Litty Matthew recalls her first, anxious meal with her new Armenian in-laws.

Recipe: Rose Napoleons

Source: Gourmet Mushrooms is one of the largest exotic mushroom producers in the U.S.. By Kathleen Brennan

Classic: Vietnamese Fire: Spicy noodle soup is an invigorating brow wiper. By Andrea Nguyen

Recipe: Bun Bo Hue (Hue-style spicy beef and rice noodle soup

Wine for the Family

In California's wine country, the Robledos come together each weekend for their mother's find Mexican cooking—and to honor and strengthen a dream. By Margo True

Recipes: Posole Rojo (pork and hominy stew)

Calabaza y Camote (candied squash and sweet potatoes)

Three-Chile Salsa

Grilled Tomato Salsa

Tostadas de Ceviche de Camaron y Jaiba (shrimp and crab ceviche on fried tortillas)

Chiles Rellenos (poblano chiles stuffed with beef and cheese)

Guisada de Guilota (quail braised in tomatillo-chile sauce)

Tasting Notes: 9 wines from the Robledo Family Winery and Mi Sueno Winery.

Sidebar: The Rise of the Vineyard Worker: immigration issues in the California wine industrie

Kekfrankos from a Former Kulak

Ferenc Takler survived communism to produce glorious Hungarian wines. By Roger Morris

Recipes: Ozporkolt (venison goulash)

Sarkozi Tejfeles Bujtok (sour cream rolls)

Bableves (bean soup with "pinched" pasta)

Szolos Retes Bor Szoszban (grape-filled strudel with white wine sauce)

Tasting Notes: 4 Takler wines

Sidebar: The Takler Table: staples include chicken paprikash and a simple salad with a dressing of white wine vinegar and honey. By Camas Davis

Sidebar: Pal's Legacy: Pal Debreczeni was one of Hungary's best winegrowers; his wife carries on.

Prickly Sweet

With their sublime balance of succulent and sour, pineapples are the most irresistible of tropical fruits. By Kelly Alexander

Recipes: Rojak (pineapple and jicama salad)

Tepache (Mexican-style fermented pineapple drink)

Manchamanteles de Cerdo y Pollo (mole with chicken, pork, and pineapple)

Pineapple Upside-Down Cake

Sweet and Sour Pork

Seared Foie Gras with Caramelized Pineapple

Sidebar: How to Cut Up a Pineapple

Sidebar: A User's Guide: varieties and how to pick a ripe one

Serious Eating in the Sudtirol

A reunion across the generations in German-speaking Italy is fueled by dumplings, gnocchi, cured pork, and sauerkraut. By George Semler

Recipes: Spinatnocken und Tofennocken (spinach and cheese gnocchi)

Speckknodelsuppe (Tyrolean bacon-dumpling soup)

Wildschwein in Rotwein Sosse mit Polenta (wild boar and soft polenta with wine sauce)

Kartoffelteigtaschen mit Pfifferlingen (potato ravioli with chanterelle mushrooms)

Tiroler Schlachtplatte (Tyrolean butcher's platter)

Fritelle di Mele alla Cannella con Composta di Mirtilli rossi (cinnamon apple fritters with cranberry compote)

The Guide: Where to stay and eat in Sudtirol

In the Saveur Kitchen: variations on shit on a shingle, by Liz Pearson; another pineapple treat, by Sophie von Haselberg; pork hocks are cross-sections of a hog's leg, by Todd Coleman

Recipe: Apcray on Apcray (creamed tuna on toast)

Oven-Dried Spicy Pineapple Snacks

Moment: A Multan, Pakistan, vendor stacks cakes on the first night of Ramadan


Zora O’Neill aka "Zora"

Roving Gastronome

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Saveur, November 2006

First: New editor in chief James Oseland recalls learning to cook from a Taiwanese friend.

Fare:

Flour Powers: Japanese comic book Yakitate!! Japane follows the adventures of a super-baker. By Emily Kaiser

Maine’s Buckwheat Treats: Acadian ployes are part pancake, part crepe, part flat bread. By Roger Doiron

Recipe: Ployes with Cretons (buckwheat crepes with pork pate)

Au Revoir, Escoffier: France’s new Le Fooding movement encourages experimentation. By Catherine Bolgar

Agenda: Rueblimart, a carrot fest in Aurau, Switzerland, Nov. 1; Greenwood County Cattlemen’s Day Celebration in Eureka, Kans., Nov. 3-4; Wurstfest in New Braunfels, Tex., Nov. 3-12; Soil Association Organic Food Festival in Glasgow, Scotland, Nov. 4-5; Sweet Potato Festival in Vardeman, Miss., Nov. 4-11; La Foire aux Harengs de Lieurey herring festival in Lieurey, France, Nov. 11; Nils Gustaf Dalen, inventor of the cast-iron stove, born Nov. 30, 1869; The Joy of Cooking first published Nov. 30, 1931

Book Review: Tamasin Day-Lewis reviews Dorie Greenspan’s Baking: From My Home to Yours, and finds it reliable precisely for the very homey recipes.

Recipe: Thanksgiving Twofer Pie

Sidebar Book: Matt and Ted Lee’s The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook: Stories and Recipes for Southerners and Would-Be Southerners covers high and low dishes alike.

The Saveur List: 10 Tabletop Goods, from Moroccan tea glasses to Chez Panisse dinnerware to Vagabond Vintage Furnishing napkins

Kitchenwise: Interior designer Jenny Rogers and her partner crafted the perfect workspace in their 500-square-foot New York City studio. By Georgia Freedman

Cellar: Night for Day

Moulin-a-vent is an earthy, gutsy cru beaujolais. By John Winthrop Haeger

Tasting notes: 12 moulin-a-vent wines, from Georges Duboeuf Domaine des Rosiers 2004 ($14; “earthy, herbaceous nose…black and red raspberries”) to Domaine de la Rochelle 2000 ($30; “raisined fruit and dried leaves…strong minerality”)

Lives: Chocolate in the Rough

On the African island of Principe, maverick chocolatier Claudio Corallo is developing a uniquie bean-to-bar operation. By G.Y. Dryansky

Source: Tane Chan’s San Francisco Wok Shop (www.wokshop.com) has a wok for every chef. By Sarah DiGregorio

Classic: Cream of New York

Cheesecake is the Big Apple’s other coveted slice

Recipe: Lindy’s Cheesecake

Shanghai Surprise

Chef Jereme Leung is redefining his adopted city’s cuisine one dish at a time. By Grace Young

Recipes: Bingzhen Huangjiu Ji (chilled drunken chicken with rice wine granita)

Xunlong Yuzi Yanxun Dan (tea-smoked eggs with caviar)

Hushi Suanla Geng (Shanghai-style hot and sour soup)

Foldout Guide: The Saveur Tour of Shanghai, with reviews of a dozen places to eat

The Guide: Where to stay and eat in Shanghai

The Centerpiece

The turkeys raised on a Colorado farm didn’t just taste good; they offered a hard-won lesson in humility. By Rita Williams

Recipes: Brined and Roasted Turkey

Collard Greens with Smoked Turkey Wings

Turkey Tetrazzini

Panes con Pavo (Salvadorn turkey sandwich)

Sidebar: A Guide to Buying Turkey: conventional, natural, heritage

Brunch on the Bayou

At one of Louisiana’s last remaining sugarcane farms, a family cook prepares a hearty feast to celebrate the harvest. By Victoria Abbott Riccardi

Recipes: Eggs Hussards (poached eggs with tasso and hollandaise sauce)

Mirliton (chayote) Casserole

Broiled Grapefruit

Couchon d’Oreille (“pigs’ ears”—fried dough with caramel and pecans)

Sausages and Gravy with Stone-Ground Grits

Sidebar: The Art of Making Sugar, from raw cane to crystals

Old-School Madrid

The Spanish capital’s classic dishes are worth seeking out—and savoring. By Anya von Bremzen

Recipes:

Gambas al Ajillo (sizzling shrimp with garlic and parsley)

Albondigas en Salsa (tapas-style meatballs)

Croquetas de Jamon con Gambas (ham and shrimp croquettes)

Cocido Madrileño de Casa Lhardy (Madrid-style boiled dinner)

Flan (creamy caramel custard)

Sidebar: Perfect Bites: where to get tapas in Madrid

The Guide: where to stay and eat in Madrid

Comng Home to Café Annie

After 25 years, a Houston institution beckons with flavors that are as thrilling as ever. By Margo True

Recipes:

Black Bean Nachos with Red Chile Beef

Rabbit Enchiladas with Red Mole

Coffee-Crusted Beef Tenderloin

In the Saveur Kitchen: Rice Wine 101—how to buy the good stuff, by Todd Coleman; how to carve a turkey; how to poach an egg, by Todd Coleman; true-life tales of turkeys in trouble—an interview with a Butterball hot-line tender, by Liz Pearson; the Neiman Marcus cookie and other sweet apocrypha, by Georgia Freedman; Kate Fox’s grandmother’s applesauce

Recipes:

Neiman Marcus Cookies

Jean Fox’s Appelsaes

In the Saveur Library: Birds of a Feather: Saving Rare Turkeys from Extinction, by Carolyn J. Christman and Robert O. Hawes, is obscure but much needed.

Moment: A cat eating corn on the cob


Zora O’Neill aka "Zora"

Roving Gastronome

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Saveur, December 2006

First: James Oseland explains how to be a regular contributor to the mag: bring the editorial staff presents like giant puffball mushrooms!

Fare:

Prize Herd: Cesare Castella of NYC’s Maremma resto has imported the chianina cow to the US. By Sophie Menin

RIP Johnny Apple. By Bryan Miller

Forbidden Fruits: Ramin Ganeshram sings the praises of Trinidad’s holiday “black cake.”

Recipe: Trinidad Black Cake

Massaging the Persimmon: the tradition of hoshi gaki – massaged, dried persimmon – is preserved in California. By Laurence Hauben

Agenda: First Royal Smithfield Show of livestock in London, Dec. 2, 1799; Home-ec activist Ellen Richards born Dec. 3, 1842, in Dunstable, Mass.; Gloggprovning in Stockholm, Dec. 9; Community Olive Press Day Dec. 10 in Glen Ellen, Calif.; Colonial Christmas Dinner in Darien, Ga., Dec. 16; Community Chanukah Party, Dec. 17 in Taos, N.M.; Dongji (winter solstice) in South Korea, Dec. 22; Owru Yari (New Year’s Eve) in Paramaribo, Surinam, Dec. 29–31

Book Review: Five favorite winter food books:

*Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors, by Andrea Nguyen; reviewed by James Oseland

*Blithe Tomato: An Insider’s Wry Look at Farmer’s Market Society, by Mike Madison; reviewed by Liz Pearson

*Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavor, by Hervé This; reviewed by Todd Coleman

*Joy of Cooking: 75th Anniversary Edition, by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker and Ethan Becker; reviewed by Georgia Freedman

*Mrs. Rowe’s Restaurant Cookbook: A Lifetime of Recipes from the Shenandoah Valley, by Mollie Cox Bryan; reviewed by Lily Binns

Recipe: Banana Pudding

The Saveur List: 8 Food Gifts, from Carr Valley Cheese to pomegranates. By Kate Fox

Ingredient: Winter Sun: Jerusalem artichokes are a cold-weather favorite whose taste is sweet and warm. By Shane Mitchell

Recipe: Sautéed Jerusalem Artichokes

Cellar: War of the Riojas

Spain’s celebrated red wine fuels an ongoing debate. By Michael Steinberger

Tasting notes: 12 riojas, from Marqués de Riscal Reserva 2001 ($16; “wood spice…and…sweatiness on the nose…excellent value”) to CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva 1996 ($65; “a burly wine, with sweetish black fruit…oaky, but with good depth and structure”)

Reporter: Joy Sticks: Chopsticks etiquette is little understood outside Asia. By Ari Tye Radetsky

Sidebar: Disposable chopsticks are a substantial drain on forests.

Classic: Holiday Spice: Pfeffernuss cookies signify Christmas in Germany—and beyond. By Maria Speck

Recipe: Pfeffernüsse (German spice cookies)

Provence Noël

In the south of France, a baker and his friends carry on the sweet rituals of Christmas. By Nancy Coons

Recipes: Saumon Pauché à la Mayonnaise (whole poached salmon with cold mayonnaise)

Gratin de Courge (squash gratin)

Pompe à l’Huile (sweet olive oil bread)

Salade de Céleri (celery salad)

Anchoïade (anchovy dip with crudités)

Sidebar: Birth of the Little Saints: miniature clay crèche scenes expand to include Provencal notables.

Sidebar: 13 Symbols of Christmas: a traditional “gros souper” ends with 13 desserts

The Guide: Where to stay and eat and what to do in Provence

The Power of Sour

Tamarind adds tartness—and intrigue—to many of the world’s favorite dishes. By Madhur Jaffrey

Recipes: Agua de Tamarindo (sweet tamarind drink)

Rasam (spicy tomato and tamarind soup)

Tamarind-Glazed Pork Chops

Imli Ki Meethi Chutney (tamarind chutney with bananas and golden raisins)

Sinigang na Hipon (Philippine sour shrimp stew)

Sidebar: Making Tamarind Extract

Liquid Gold

On the French Caribbean island of Martinique, all roads lead to rum. By Wayne Curtis

Recipes: Hot Buttered Rum

Ti’ Punch

Martinique Milk Punch

Dave Wondrich’s Rum Punch

Sidebar: A Martinique Rum Primer

Sidebar: Finding Sugarcane-Juice Rum

The Guide: What to do and where to eat in Martinique

Christmas at Currandooley

A fifth-generation Australian ranching clan returns to the family seat for a holiday feast beneath the blazing December sun. By Chloe Osborne

Recipes: Christmas Ham

Crab Apple Jelly

Christmas Pudding with Custard Sauce

Currandooley Dressing (Meyer lemon and garlic dressing)

The Age of Casseroles

They were easy. They were chic. They were the most delicious dishes of their day. By Irene Sax

Recipes: Shepherd’s Pie

Tuna-Noodle Casserole

Tamale Pie

Chicken Divan

Sidebar: A Modern Convenience: The rise of Campbell’s cream of mushroom soup.

Sidebar: America’s Own Cookware: how the American casserole dish came to be.

Sidebar: Our Favorite Casserole Cookbooks: 10 books of recipes, dating from 1912 to 2003. By Amy McDaniel

In the Saveur Kitchen: Swiss Christmas cookies, by Nick Malgieri; what’s really in Worcestershire sauce, by Lily Binns; an easier approach to gratin, by Todd Coleman; extras found in vintage cookbooks, by Todd Coleman; what makes a ham a ham, by Liz Pearson; Southern mom fails at biscuits, by Amy McDaniel

Recipes: Spitzbuebe (Swiss raspberry preserve–filled sandwich cookies)

Potato Gratin

Corned Ham

Moment: Dinner in the Sky—eating at a table suspended over a freeway in Brussels


Zora O’Neill aka "Zora"

Roving Gastronome

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Saveur, January 2006

First: Producing the Saveur 100 is haaaard work!

Fare:

The Drink Artist: A purist amateur bartender in Brooklyn is a master of the artisanal cocktail. By John Lansdowne

Recipe: Orange Bitters

Miracle Leaf: The essence of pandan is at the heart of countless Southeast Asian dishes. By Pat Tanumihardja

Recipe: Kacang Ijo (spiced mung bean dessert porridge)

Hale and Hearty: Galaxy gazing is better after a good meal, reports Joseph Carson from San Diego’s Palomar Observatory.

Agenda: Second annual Florida Keys Seafood Festival, Jan. 13; patent for neon lighting obtained, Jan. 19, 1915; Oregon Truffle Festival, Willamette Valley, Ore., Jan. 26–28; Ka Moloka’i Makahiki Festival on Molokai, Hawai’i, Jan. 27; Carnaval in Vilanova i la Geltrú, Spain, on Feb. 18 involves lots of cava and candy; Spring Festival in Port Louis, Mauritius, Feb. 18; Feria Regional del Café y del Guayaba in Canelas, Mexico, Feb. 18–26

Book Review: Bryan Miller reviews the new edition of the Culinary Institute of America’s The Professional Chef, and praises the expanded “world cuisines” section and the photo-illustrated sections on technique.

Technique: Fluting (typically used on mushrooms)

Drink: Sea Change: Bordeaux’s Entre-deux-Mers is shaping up to be the little wine region that could. By Roger Morris

Tasting Notes: Three reds from Entre-deux-Mers: Chateau Balestard 2003 ($35; “rounded fruit”), Chateau Le Grand Verdus 2003 ($25; “solid wine with cherry flavors…food-friendly finish”) and Girolate 2001 ($100; “sweet blackberry and lightly minted chocolate”)

Kitchenwise: Cookbook authors Naomi Duguid and Jeffrey Alford gave up a dining room in favor of a large, casual kitchen—but they kept the standard-issue four-burner range-top, as it keeps their recipe-testing down-to-earth.

Memories: A Fine Virginian

A beloved great-aunt’s cooking wisdom could fill a book. By Lucretia Bingham

Recipe: Aunt Fan’s Devil’s Food Cake

Source: Rising Star: King Arthur’s sticky buns are gooey perfection. By Kathleen Brennan

Classic: Spanish Comfort

Galicia’s hearty caldo gallego warms both body and soul. By Sofia Perez

Recipe: Caldo Gallego (Galician meat and vegetable soup)

The Saveur 100

The annual roundup of the staff’s favorite foods, restaurants, drink, people, places and things, with a special tip of the cap to maitre d’s and do-gooders. A random sampling: Zankou Chicken in LA, canned peas (?!), Engin Akin of Turkey, Patel Bros., oyster loaf at Casamento’s in New Orleans, Philippine food, white foods (again, ?!), Mexico City cuisine, Lost Abbey beer, vermouth as cooking wine, carbon-steel knives, Edna Lewis, food-shaped band-aids, runny cheeses and purple-sweet-potato vinegars

Recipes: Betty’s Spaghetti (from Thomas Keller)

Shashlyk (spicy grilled pork kebabs)

Wafuu Curry (Japanese-style chicken curry)

Grissini (crunchy Piedmontese breadsticks)

Mousse au Chocolat (chocolate mousse)

Sauerbraten mit Kartoffel Klosse (pot roast with potato dumplings)

Fitty-Fitty (half-gin, half-vermouth cocktail)

Venison with Seared Foie Gras

Nassau Grits

Texas-Style Pecan Pralines

Poached Sole with Vermouth

Baked Feta with Roasted Red Peppers and Lemon-Oregano Broth (from Water Works restaurant in Philadelphia)

Edna Lewis’s Coffee

Armenian Tahini Bread

Bakwan (crisp celery green fritters)

Yogurt Panna cotta with Pineapple Sorbet and Cilantro Gelée (from ChickaLicious)

Denver Sandwich

Pav Bhaji (spicy mashed vegetable curry with rolls)

In the Saveur Kitchen: Mormon generosity creates some memorable food, by Lucy Hayes; the recipe for James Oseland’s Taiwanese friend’s green beans, mentioned in the November 2006 issue; how to peel garlic cloves in bulk, by Kate Fox; Spanish vs. Mexican chorizo, by Liz Pearson; how to do the butcher’s slipknot, by Todd Coleman; Maxine Kaplan supplies all the props for the photo shoots

Recipes: Utah’s Famous Green Jell-O Salad

Stir-fried Green Beans a la Tang

Moment: An English pub patron shows off the Last Supper tattoo on his beer belly.


Zora O’Neill aka "Zora"

Roving Gastronome

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Saveur, March 2007

First: James Oseland recalls learning to cook—very informally—in family kitchens in Indonesia. But converting that to printable recipes is a challenge.

Fare:

Quenched, Indian Style: Mumbai’s drink vendors add spice and more. By Litty Mathew

Recipe: Jal Jeera (cumin-laced tamarind and mint cooler)

Cold Comfort: Chef Kirsten Dixon brings more than mere sustenance to the mushers of Alaska’s Iditarod. By Jenna Schnuer

Fiery Fruit: The tiny sansho pepper, cousin of Sichuan pepper, gives Japanese cuisine a kick. By Shane Mitchell

Agenda: Festival Internacional de La Vendimia celebrates grapes in Ica, Peru, Mar 5-17; drink strong beer at Starkbierzeit at Paulaner am Nockherberg in Munich Mar 8-25; Milk River Wagon Train Nut and Gut Feed cooks pioneer-style in Malta, Mont., March 10; Ranelagh, Tasmania, offers A Taste of the Huon March 11-12; March 12 is the anniversary of the first patent granted for starch processing, 1841; Charles Sutherland Elton, developer of the idea of the food chain in 1927’s Animal Ecology, born March 29, 1900; Newport Pig Cookin’ Contest in Newport, N.C., Mar 30-31; Public Bake Day in Fort Gibson, Okla., on March 31, uses the fort’s giant public oven.

Book Review: Todd Coleman reviews A Tale of 12 Kitchens: Family Cooking in Four Countries, by Jake Tilson, a graphic reminiscence of kitchens in Tuscany, New York, Los Angeles and Scotland. Coleman finds it “breezy, smart and surprisingly unpretentious.”

Recipe: Beet and Sumac Salad

In the Beginning: Saveur’s 100th issue prompts a look back at its first.

The Saveur List: 12 honeys, from Italian chestnut to Hawaiian kiawe. By Sierra Burnett

Kitchenwise: Hizzoner’s Retreat: A look a former New York City mayor Ed Koch’s humble apartment space, complete with a snapshot of his fridge’s contents. By Georgia Freedman

Cellar: Uncommon Grace: Volnay is a smooth, sensual red burgundy. By Michael Steinberger

Tasting Notes: Eleven volnays from 2003 and 2004, from Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Clos de Chenes 2004 ($65; “muscular…with spicy cherry fruit across the palate and pronounced oak”) to Domaine Leroy Santenots-du-Milieu 2003 ($570; “blackberry-infused bouquet…pronounced tannins, and fairly spicy in the mouth. Finishes quite sweet.”).

Memories: Tasting Freedom

Ma Thanegi reminisces about time spent in a Myanmar prison, and the imaginary meals enjoyed there.

Recipe: Pei Daunt Shay Thoke (Myanmar-style long bean salad)

Source: Miracle Cure: Thick-cut bacon from Benton’s Smoky Mountain Country Hams. By Todd Coleman

Classic: Roman Art

Spaghetti alla carbonara pleases even the most finicky palates. By Mei Chin

Recipe: Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Mighty Shrimp

A celebration of America’s favorite seafood. By Andre Baranowski, Penny de los Santos and James Oseland

Part One: Why we love shrimp. By Wayne Curtis

Part Two: A day on the water. By Wayne Curtis

Part Three: How to cook shrimp. By James Peterson

Recipes: Shrimp Scampi with Linguine

Barbecued Shrimp

Shrimp Boil

Stir-Fried Shrimp with Snow Peas

Shrimp Cocktail

Maine Shrimp Chowder

Sidebar: Know Your American Shrimp: photos and descriptions of seven major varieties. By Jennifer Salerno

Sidebar: North Atlantic Treasure: the delicate northern pink (Maine) shrimp is best served nearly raw. By Jon Levitt

Sidebar: How to Buy Shrimp: fresh vs. frozen, which size, what’s fresh. By James Peterson

Ancient Hunger

The vibrant cuisine of northern Peru—with its blend of chiles, corn, yuca, potatoes and seafood—is rooted in both the Old World and the New. By Maricel E. Presilla

Recipes: Yuca Hervida

Sudado de Pescado (Huanchaco-style fish stewed in tomatoes and chiles)

Cebiche de Mero al Estilo de Hunchaco (grouper ceviche)

Salsa de Aji Escabeche y Paico (Andean yellow chile and epazote salsa)

Pepian de Garbanzos (chickpea porridge with chile oil)

The Guide: where to stay and eat in Peru

The Glory of Red Cooking

This traditional Chinese cooking method yields melt-in-your-mouth results. By Grace Young

Recipes: Hong Shao Yu (red-cooked fish)

Si Xi Kaufu (four happiness wheat gluten)

Hong Shao Rou (red-cooked pork belly)

Hong Shao Ji (red-cooked chicken)

Sweet Life

A gifted baker with the soul of a poet brings the refined art of the French pastry to upstate New York. By Darra Goldstein

Recipes: Gateau Saint-Honoré

Lemon Meringue Tart

Chocolate Babka

In the Saveur Kitchen: Get to the bottom of it all by rediscovering the technique of stirring, says Todd Coleman; the history of cocktail sauce, by Todd Coleman; a brief interview with Chinese food consultant Eddie Schoenfeld; how to devein a shrimp without removing the shell; how to deal with yuca, by Maricel E. Presilla; all about pork belly, by Brigit Binns; wheat gluten, the “Chinese chameleon,” by Grace Young

Recipes: Ed Koch’s Broiled Swordfish with Olives

Moment: An overly enthusiastic toddler enjoys her birthday cake. (Ew.)


Zora O’Neill aka "Zora"

Roving Gastronome

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Saveur, April 2007

First: Deputy ed David McAninch remembers when crepes were the epitome of fancy-French in America.

Fare:

Southern Spread: A favorite in the Southeast, mayhaw jelly is a sweet-tart sensation. By Mary Zajac

Curry in a Hurry: Berlin’s beloved currywurst is a German institution. By Todd Coleman

Recipe: Currywurst Sauce

Treasure of the Tropics: Pixbae (aka piba, pewa, pupunha, peach palm fruit) is worth seeking out when in Panama, Brazil or similar climes. By Scott Mahler

Norse New York: Manhattan’s Norwegian Seamen’s Church hosts a weekly Scandinavian feast. By Jennifer Keeney-Sendrow

Agenda: BBC “Spaghetti Harvest” hoax perpetrated Apr. 1, 1957; Pennsylvania Herb Festival in York, Pa., Apr 13-14; Sekaten, Indonesian feast celebrating Muhammad’s birthday, begins Apr 14; Symposium: Cooking Up 400 Years of Culinary History in Virgina Apr 21-21 in Blacksburg, Va.; Philippolis Witblits Stookfees celebrates moonshine in South Africa, Apr 20-21; Hood River Valley Blossom Festival celebrates cherries in Oregon Apr 21-22; Apr 27-29 is the Interstate Mullet Toss in Pensacola, Fla.; Ludwig Bemelmans, author of the Madeline books, born Apr 30, 1898

Book Review: David McAninch reviews A Tale of 12 Kitchens: Family Cooking in Four Countries The Glory of Southern Cooking, by James Villas, and Great American Beer: 50 Brands That Shaped the 20th Century, by Christopher B. O’Hara. Villas’s work gentrifies many of the basics, and offers a lot of cocktail nibbles, along with Southern anecdotes—but the recipes are solid. O’Hara’s book is fun to look at as well as read, with its vintage ads.

Recipe: Stewed Okra and Tomatoes

Cellar: Wild Flower: Voluptuous viognier flourishes around the globe. By Paul Lukacs

Tasting Notes: 12 viogniers, from Cono Sur Colchagua Valley 2006 ($10; “floral and sweet spice bouquet…fine value”) to Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu “La Petite Cote” 2005 ($65; “sumptuously aromatic, …simultaneously sweet and mineral laden”)

Source: Meet the Bruttles: Bruttles Candy makes this refined version of peanut brittle dipped in chocolate. By Marlene Shyer

Memories: The Ritual of Soup: The centerpiece of Pamela Renner’s family seder is layered with meaning.

Recipe: Matzo Ball Soup

Drink: Up, Up, and Away

The Santa Cruz Mountains appellation is a winemaking region on the rise. By James Conaway

Tasting Notes: Four bottles that reflect the range of styles in the Santa Cruz Mountains, from Mount Eden Vineyards Chardonnay ($38) to Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon ($160).

Classic: Chinatown Gems

Bite-size siu mai are the stars of any dim sum feast. By Christina Eng

Recipe: Siu Mai (open-face pork and shrimp dumplings)

The Soulful Crepes of Brittany

The signature food of France’s rugged northwestern province is born of the land and the sea. By Nancy Coons

Recipes: Crepes de Blé Noir (buckwheat crepes)

Sauce Noix de Saint Jacques (scallops in white wine cream sauce)

Confit d’Oignons au Cidre (cider-spiked onion confit)

Crepes Flambées au Lambig (white-flour crepes flambéed with cider brandy)

Kouigns Bigoudens aux Pommes (thick crepes with sautéed apples)

Crepes Complètes de Blé Noir (buckwheat crepes with gruyere, ham and egg)

Sidebar: Brittany’s Drink of Choice: cider can be as subtle as a good wine

The Guide: where to stay, eat and drink and what to do in Brittany

Spring Green

Chives are more than a pretty garnish; they’re among the earliest harbingers of the season to come. By Molly Stevens

Recipes: Chive and Goat Cheese Omelette

Seared Tri-Tip Sirloin Steaks with Chive Butter

Knife-and-Fork Egg Salad Sandwiches with Chives

Chive and Cheddar Biscuits

Tagliatelle with Chive Oil and Cremini Mushrooms

Sidebar: Garlic chives are distinctly different from the onion variety.

My Singapore

A native son celebrates the delicious foods of his country. By Christopher Ten

Recipes: Fried Taugeh (stir-fried bean sprouts)

The Alia (ginger milk tea)

Nyonya Udang Masak Nanas (shrimp and pineapple curry)

Serikaya (coconut jam)

Ketumbar Chicken (braised chicken with coriander)

Sidebar: Where to Graze: ten great food vendors

The Guide: Where to stay in Singapore

The Diner

One Massachusetts restaurant is among the last, great shrines to honest American cooking. By Todd Coleman

Recipes: Agawan Chicken Pies

American Chop Suey

Don’s Homemade Hash

Christine Galanis’s Greek-Style Vegetables

Coconut Cream Pie

Sidebar: The Agawam Lexicon: a glossary of diner-ese

In the Saveur Kitchen: Lily Binns praises cooks’ hands; how to make a butter roll; what a tri-tip is; Todd Coleman relates the history of the shandy; Georgia Freedman on matzo; a short interview with “Brittany’s Sardine Lady,” Madeleine Briois; Agawam’s ancient Hobart mixer

Recipes: Matzo Brei (scrambled eggs and matzo)

Moment: Playboy Bunnies and Penthouse Pets compete in a waitresses’ race, 1972


Zora O’Neill aka "Zora"

Roving Gastronome

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Saveur, May 2007

First: Managing editor Lily Binns recalls doing research in Mexico City’s Mercado de la Merced during protests at the presidential inauguration.

Fare:

Eight-Story Glory: The time-honored Smith Island cake is a many-layered wonder. By Mary Zajac

Recipe: Smith Island Cake (eight-layer chocolate–peanut butter cake)

Cool Operator: The ultimate mint julep. By Lily Binns

Recipe: Mint Julep

A Friend, Plainly Spoken: remembering Sharon Tyler Herbst, author of Food Lover’s Companion. By Dana Bowen

Meet the Tenderizer: Vincent Cutrone has invented machines to tenderize octopus. By Rachael Philipps Shapiro

Agenda: 54th annual Cosby Ramp Festival in Tenn., May 6; Candat Sotong Fiesta in Redang, Malaysia celebrates squid May 11-13; May 18, 1936, birthday of Allan Burns, inventor of Cap’n Crunch; Lodi Zinfest in Lodi, Calif., May 18-20; May 19 is Sagra dei Limoni in Monterosso, Italy; Le Fete du Chocolat du Bromont, Quebec, May 19-27; May 26-27 Czech/Slovak Fest at Bohemian Hall in Astoria, Queens, New York

Book Review: Irene Sax reviews Thomas McNamee’s Alice Waters and Chez Panisse: The Romantic, Impractical, Often Eccentric, Ultimately Brillian Making of a Food Revolution. It’s delightful and inspirational.

Sidebar Book: Madhur Jaffrey’s Climbing the Mango Trees: A Memoir of Childhood in India, about growing up in Delhi, is a mesmerizing read.

The Saveur List: 10 Ways to Eat on Oahu: plate lunches, box meals, farmer’s markets. By Shane Mitchell

Kitchenwise: Former Food Network exec C.M. Reinhardt describes the process of converting a Carnegie Library building in rural Nebraska into a functional living space and kitchen (includes clever use of old card catalog).

Cellar: French Twist

There’s more to Alsation Riesling than what’s on the label. By John Landsdowne

Tasting notes: 10 Alsation rieslings, from Maison Kuentz-Bas Cuvee Tradition 2004 ($15; “tart graphefruit, robust minerality”) to Domaine Weinbach Grand Cru Schlossberg Vendanges Tardive Trie Speciale 2004 ($120; “cream, sensational nose…considerable sweetness”)

Lives: A Host of Possibilities

Choumicha Acharki, the star of a popular Moroccan cooking show has more than just food on her mind. By Kent Davis-Packard and Holly Shaffer

Source: Cesare Mazzetti’s handmade copperware keeps an ancient tradition alive. (www.rameria.com) By Elisa Herr and Ed Schoenfeld

Classic: Dream Whip

England’s syllabub is a simple but spirited dessert. By Tamasin Day-Lewis

Recipe: Syllabub (English sherry-infused mousse)

La Merced

A visit to Mexico City’s sprawling central market makes for a homecoming like no other. By Mauricio Velazquez de Leon

Recipes: Salsa de Tres Chiles (three-chile salsa)

Ensalada de Nopales (cactus salad)

Esquites (corn with lime juice and chile powder)

Quesadilla de Flor de Cabaza (squash blossom quesadilla)

Verdolagas con Carne de Puerco (purslane and pork stew)

The Guide: Where to stay in Mexico City, and where to eat in La Merced

Toss & Serve

Salads aren’t merely a light repast. They tell the story of who we are. By Barbara Kafka

Recipes: Spinach Salad with Hot Bacon Dressing

Watercress Salad with Ranch Dressing

Chef’s Salad with American French Dressing

Mixed Green Salad with Green Goddess Dressing

Mesclun Salad with Goat Cheese and Balsamic Vinaigrette

Iceberg Lettuce with Thousand Island Dressing

Sidebar: A Guide to Greens. By Molly Stevens

Sidebar: All Dressed Up: five popular dressings

Sidebar: Raising the Bar: A brief history of the all-American salad bar. By Todd Coleman

A Land Apart

For centuries, the language and culture of Spain’s Basque region have distinguished its people—and food has bound them together. By Sofia Perez

Recipes: Marmitako (tuna stew with potatoes and peppers)

Sopa de Ajo (Basque-style garlic soup)

Porrusalda (potato and leek soup)

Bacalao al Pil-Pil (salt cod in garlic sauce)

Talos con Chocolate (corn tortilla with melted chocolate)

The Guide: where to stay and eat in Basque country

Stars of India

How tandoori chicken, naan and korma became Indian restaurant classics. By Margo True

Recipes:

Tandoori Chicken

Dal Makhani (creamy spiced Indian lentils)

Bhaigan Bhartha (mashed smokey eggplant with tomatoes)

Naan (tandoori flat bread)

Karim’s Korma (goat curry)

Matar Paneer (curry with peas and fresh cheese)

The Guide: where to stay and eat in Delhi

In the Saveur Kitchen: the art of the supermarket flyer, by Todd Coleman; the essential ice crusher, by Lily Binns; in praise of purslane, by Katherine Alford; Basque technique for breaking off ragged chunks of potatoes for stews, by Sofia Perez; how to make paneer; yes, people drink buttermilk, by Todd Coleman; Liz Pearson praises Saveur interns; an interview with a Basque corn miller, by Sofia Perez

Recipe:

Kwasne Mleko Ze Szczypiorkiem (Polish buttermilk drink with chives)

Moment: A toilet-themed restaurant in southern Taiwan


Zora O’Neill aka "Zora"

Roving Gastronome

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Saveur June/July 2007: my issue went missing. If I get a replacement copy, I'll come back and edit this post.


Zora O’Neill aka "Zora"

Roving Gastronome

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Saveur, Aug/Sept 2007

First: James Oseland points readers to the Saveur website for some extras, such as the Russian recipe for "Mr. Chicken."

Fare:

More Meat, Please! Paul Lukas examines vintage meat cookbooks.

Recipe: Sloppy Joes

Don't Mess with Del: James Oseland recalls great food on a movie set.

Recipe: Three-Bean Salad, sans Biz

Street Cred: the Vendies are a red-carpet gala for New York's pushcart heroes. By David McAninch

Agenda: First patent for shredded wheat cereal machine issued Aug 1, 1893; Sardine Festival in Kaloni, Mytilene, Greece Aug 5; Vermont Fresh Network's 12th annual forum Aug 5; Festival da Pinga in Paraty, Brazil, Aug 23-26; Aug 31-Sep 3 Annual Hearts o' Gold Cantaloupe Festival in Fallon, Nev; Sept 8-30 Zhong Qiu Jie midautumn festival in Singapore; Sept 21-23 Nature Wonder Wild Food Weekend in Cairo, W. Va.

Book Review: Bryan Miller reviews the Silver Palate Cookbook 25th Anniversary Edition, and finds it useful, if no longer as revolutionary as it was in 1982.

Recipe: Oven-roasted Plum Tomatoes

The Saveur List: 6 Food Museums, from the Shinyokohama Raumen Museum in Japan to the Museum der Brotkultur in Ulm, Germany.

Cellar: Chill Factor

The wines of Chablis bring out chardonnay's austere side. By Paul Lukacs

Tasting Notes: Ten chablis, from William Fevre "Champs Royaux" 2005 ($20; "a fine buy...brisk and vibrant") to William Fevre Crand Cru Les Clos Domaine 2005 ($90; "potential to evolve").

Drink: American All-Star

Root beer, once the king of soft drinks, still inspires ranks of passionate devotees. By Mary Zajac

Recipe: Homemade Root Beer

Source: Mountain Beauty: Purple Haze garlic tastes as good as it looks. By Eugenia Bone

Classic: Sicilian Mosaic

Caponata is a brilliant expression of an ancient, melting-pot cuisine. By Nancy Harmon Jenkins

Recipe: Caponata (Sicilian sweet-sour vegetables)

Taking Root

A family of Hmong immigrants brings centuries-old agrarian wisdom to California's Central Valley. By Andrea Nguyen

Recipes: Zaub Ntsuab Hau Xyaw Nqaij Npuas Sawb (Chinese mustard greens soup)

Kua Txob Tuav Xyaw Dos (chile-scallion relish)

Hmab Qos Liab Kib Xyaw Dos Thiab Qej (stir-fried yam leaves with onions)

Dib Iab Kib Xyaw Koojtis Qaib (stir-fried bitter melon with chicken wings)

Xwbkuab Kib Xyaw Nqaij Nyug (stir-fried angled luffa with beef)

Land of Plenty

Vladivostok, once a secrecy-shrouded outpost of the Russian Far East, is now a bustling culinary crossroads. By Sharon Hudgins

Recipes: Okroshka (chilled Russian vegetable soup)

Buterbrody (open-face herring sandwiches)

Morkovi Koreiski (Korean-style carrot salad)

Vinegret (beet and potato salad)

Krevetki i Grebeshki (poached shrimp and sauteed scallops)

Keta Zapechenaya pod Mayonezom (baked salmon with mayonnaise)

Sidebar: Tasting Tradition: the history of zakuski ("little bites")

The Guide: where to stay and eat and what to do in Vladivostok

Like Butter

The mystique of avocados, which lend depth and creaminess to countless dishes, is timeless. By Andrea Nguyen

Recipes: California Roll

Open-Face Avocado and Goat Cheese Sandwiches

Lobster and Avocado Salad

Fajitas with Green Sauce

Sidebar: Love Fruit: the campaign to convince Americans to eat avs

Sidebar: Step-by-Step Guacamole

Sidebar: Know Your Avocados: photos and descriptions of nine varieties

Shrines of Summer

Along the shores of Rhode Island, clam shacks are hallowed institutions. By Lucretia Bingham

Recipes: Clam Cakes

Fried Clams

Red Chowder

Stuffies (stuffed quahogs)

Sidebar: Rhode Island's Beloved Bivalves: all about the quahog

Sidebar: Rhode Island Clam Shack Lingo

The Guide: where to stay and eat in Rhode Island

In the Saveur Kitchen: Dana Bowen researches the use of root beer in cooking; the origins of the term "sloppy joe", by Todd Coleman; what sassafras looks like (and no, it's not illegal), by Todd Coleman; how to buy bitter melons, by Andrea Nguyen; Russian kvas, by Liz Pearson; What to Pour: wine and drink suggestions inspired by the foods in this issue (a new column), by Paul Lukacs

Recipes: Root Beer Cake

Moment: portrait of Julia Child, in a cornfield


Zora O’Neill aka "Zora"

Roving Gastronome

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Saveur, Oct 2007

Special Issue: Chicago

First: James Oseland explains the choice to dedicate an issue to the Windy City.

Fare:

The Originals: Chicago inventions in food: The Jibarito (skirt steak in a plantain ‘sandwich’), Shrimp de Jonghe (garlic-stuffed shrimp) and of course the Chicago-style hot dog. By Dana Bowen and Katherine Concila

Midwestern Beauties: Artisanal cheeses from Wisconsin, Indiana and elsewhere. By Dana Bowen

Everyone’s a Critic: Chicago’s homegrown restaurant-critic show, Check, Please! is a hit on the PBS affiliate. By Elaine Glusac

Deeply Delicious: Burt’s is the underground place to go for deep-dish pizza. By Michael Nagrant

Old School: Old-fashioned glamour, and food, at the Drake Hotel. By Todd Coleman

Recipe: Lobster Thermidor

Mother-in-Law Mystery: Is the ‘mother-in-law’ sandwich the progeny of Mississippi Delta hot tamales? John T. Edge investigates, and finds many variations.

Agenda: Chicago, 2007-2008

Nov 16-18: The American Indian Center of Chicago’s Annual Pow-Wow; Dec 1-2: Julmarknad Christmas Bazaar (lots of glögg); Feb 9: For the Love of Chocolate Scholarship Benefit; April 27: Greek Orthodox Easter; June 7-8: Ribfest Chicago; June 27-July 6: Taste of Chicago; August 29-September 1: Taste of Polonia; 100th anniversary of Ferrara Pan Candy in 2008

Lives: The Entertainer

Rich Melman is the man who reinvented eating out in Chicago. By Jonathan Black

Ingredient: Let Them Eat Pate

Notes from the foie gras underground. By Peter Sagal

Essay: Tomorrowland

What Kraft Macaroni & Cheese and Chicago’s cutting-edge restaurants have in common. By Peter Meehan

Sidebar: Chicago’s Taste for Invention: weird food inventions!

Source: State Street Sweet

The inimitable Frango mint, now available at www.macys.com. By Danny Miller

Classic: A Sandwich to Dress Down For

Chicago’s Italian beef isn’t for dainty eaters. By Carol Mighton Haddix

Recipe: Italian Beef Sandwiches

CHICAGO!...The Features

Heartland of the World

You’ve attained gastronomic heights, Chicago, but your roots go deep. By David McAninch

City of Pork

Chicago’s Polish butchers elevate the humble pig to a smoked and cured art form. By Dana Bowen

Recipes: Bigos (sauerkraut and smoked pork stew)

Golabki Grzybami (stuffed cabbage rolls)

Schab Pieczony y Powidlami (plum-stuffed pork loin)

Mielone Kotlety (Polish pork hamburgers)

Sidebar: Polish Pork Primer: from szyszkowa to karczek wedzony

At the Market

Chicago’s food shoppers have the world at their feet: a photo essay, visiting Super H Mart, Baylor’s Melon Market, Moo & Oink and the Lincoln Park Farmers Market.

A Chef’s Journey

For an acclaimed restaurateur, finding success meant returning to Chicago. By Bruce Sherman of North Pond

Recipes: Soft-Boiled Eggs with Bacon-Infused Sweet Potatoes and Parsley Coulis

Beets Two Ways

Spice-Braised Lamb Shanks with Lentils

Apple-Lavender Tarte Tatin

Bread-Crusted Halibut with Leek Ragout and Red Pepper Puree

South Side Soul

Chicago’s soul food restaurants, infused with history, remain close to their Southern roots. By Tracy Poe

Recipes: Izola’s Fried Chicken

Helen’s Corn Cakes

Macaroni and Cheese

Mustard Greens with Salt Pork and Spicy Vinegar

Rose’s Famous Caramel Cake

A Place at the Table

For Chicago native Raquel Pelzel, home is where the food is.

Recipes: Caviatelli (ricotta dumplings)

Sunday Gravy (hearty tomato ragu)

Scarola (escarole, sausage and cannellini bean stew)

Cauliflower Fritters

Chicago Guide: Where to Stay, Where to Eat and More (three whole pages’ worth…)

In the Saveur Kitchen: Bruce Sherman swears by a spoon as the ultimate kitchen implement; Katherine Concila praises Chicago-invented flaming saganaki; how to make a parchment-paper lid for a slow-cooking coulis; assorted pork parts, identified; interview with soul-food queen Izola White; how to make the bread crust for the bread-crusted halibut; wine and drink suggestions for the recipes

Recipes: Root Beer Cake

Moment: a silver-covered street performer snacks on a submarine sandwich on Michigan Avenue.


Zora O’Neill aka "Zora"

Roving Gastronome

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