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Savoir Pair - Katie Loeb article


KatieLoeb

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Well folks - here it is. My Magnum Opus on Kosher for Passover wine accompanied by recipes weaseled out of several of my former employers. :biggrin: This was published in the March 18th Jewish Exponent Passover Supplement. I hope everyone enjoys this, and for those of you in the Philly area, I hope Rosenberg Blue Star Wines becomes a valuable resource for your holiday shopping. My thanks to Blue Star Wines and all of the chefs for their input, and to my fearless editors Barbara Spector, Greg Salisbury and Jason Perlow for their assistance in making this readable.

Cheers,

Katie

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<FONT SIZE=12>Savoir Pair</FONT>

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<FONT SIZE=4>J</FONT>ewish wine lovers of the Delaware Valley, take note: In recent years, kosher-for-Passover wine has evolved way past the sickly sweet grape beverage wine produced from classless native American varietals like Concord. If you've resigned yourself to a fruitless and frustrating pre-holiday search through the Pennsylvania state stores or the local wine shops in New Jersey or Delaware, you are in for a pleasant surprise. Kosher wine is now readily available for our drinking pleasure in all price ranges, from vineyards in every corner of the wine- producing world. And much of it is <I>very</I> good.</P>

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<FONT SIZE=4>W</FONT>hat makes a wine kosher is adherence to Jewish ritual law, or kashrut. According to kashrut, the wine must be made under strict rabbinical supervision and with equipment that is used solely for the production of kosher wine. Products that are used in the winemaking process, such as yeasts, must be certified kosher. Under religious law, grapes and wine can be handled only by Sabbath-observant Jews those who refrain from any kind of work from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday. (That, of course, can put a crimp into the time-sensitive business of a harvesting and winemaking schedule, as these tasks cannot take place on the Sabbath or holy days.). Kosher wines that are to be handled by the general public (for instance, poured by non-Sabbath-observant waitstaff) must be mevushal, or subjected to a boiling process. This is generally accomplished by flash heat pasteurization, whereby the wine is held at an elevated temperature for a few seconds. Wine aficionados argue whether this positively or adversely affects the wine. Although some wine experts argue that the heating process stabilizes the wine, others argue that while the short-term damage to the wine is negligible, the heating process may destroy certain bacteria that effect the aging potential of the wine. This only matters, of course, if you are a kosher wine collector. In addition, no animal products can be used in the clarifying of the wine, and no artificial products or colorings can be added.</P>

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<FONT SIZE=4>A</FONT>s kosher winemaking techniques have improved, the demand for kosher wines to achieve the level of quality of premier non-kosher wines has also increased. As a result, the kosher wine industry has exploded over the last several years.</P>

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I</FONT>f it weren't for the Royal Wine Corporation in Brooklyn, run by the Herzog family, there wouldn't be much premium kosher wine available in the United States at all. This talented group of winemakers, former wine purveyors to the Austro-Hungarian royal court, hid from the Nazis in Czechoslovakia during World War II. Arriving in America in 1948 with little more than the clothes on their backs, they have become the predominant suppliers of both domestic and imported kosher wines. Herzog's Kedem label is used for ceremonial sweet wines produced at the winemakers winery in Milton, N.Y. Under the Baron Herzog label, the company markets an entire line of California varietals made at the familys central California winery. Royal Wine Corporation also has a winemaking team that travels the world making kosher wines at independent wineries for example, Chateau Giscours, a third-growth property in the Margaux region of Bordeaux. Herzog also produces a special kosher edition of a Merlot-dominated St. Emilion at Chateau Yon-Figeac, also in Bordeaux. Bartenura winery in the Piedmont region of Italy is also a Royal Wine Company property. The company also markets inexpensive custom-made Chilean wines under the Alfasi label. In addition, Royal has an extensive catalog of imported kosher wines not made by the company, including the fine Bokobsa Cuvee du Centenaire Cotes du Rhone and Barons Edmond et Benjamin de Rothschild Bordeaux. Royal Wine Company has the unique distinction of being the largest producer, importer and distributor of wines and spirits bearing kosher certification in the world. </P>

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<FONT SIZE=4>K</FONT>osher wines are now available from every corner of the winemaking world. Many of these wines compete favorably with, and occasionally outplace, their non-kosher counterparts in international wine competitions. There is wine for every taste, every pocketbook and for virtually any dish that might grace your table. The trick is knowing what youre looking for, and where to look for it.</P>

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For example, kosher wine is being produced by observant Jews all over the European continent. Browse any well-stocked kosher wine shop, and you will find selections from Hungary, Austria, Italy, Spain and Germany vying for shelf space. And, as might be expected, there is French wine from every region as well. Roberto Cohen, one of the largest producers of kosher wines in France, is just beginning to import some of his 60 varieties of wines into the United States, including his Bordeaux and Pouilly-Fume. Cohen started in the wine business when, after years of avocational wine study, he became frustrated that he couldnt find anything his well- educated palate enjoyed. He believes that the kosher wine drinker has grown far more sophisticated over the last few decades, and that observant Jews want to eat and drink as well as their non-observant brethren. If sales figures are any indication, he is definitely on to something.</P>

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<FONT SIZE=4>I</FONT>n Spain, Tierra Salvaje offers a stunning selection of wines made from premium grapes, produced by legendary Israeli winemaker Shimshon Welner, the creator of the Golan Winery and its highly acclaimed Yarden brand. Loosely translated from Spanish, the name Tierra Salvaje means difficult terrainwhich, to any wine lover, means a place where it is difficult for the vine to flourish. This, as any enophile will tell you, is a good thing - the harder the vines have to work, the more flavorful the grape. </P>

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Welners experience in producing wines in the difficult terrain of the Golan Heights serves him well in the growing regions of Spain and South America, where he now practices his art. In Spain, the Tierra Salvaje wines are co-produced by Moet & Chandon Espana. The Tierra Salvaje Brut Cava Reserva sparkling wine is a true Spanish Cava of the highest quality. It is the first kosher wine ever produced by a Chandon winery and reflects the amazing elegance and finesse expected from the worlds premier Champagne and sparkling wine producer. It consistently gets excellent ratings from the wine media and publications no less than the venerable <I>Wine Spectator</I> </P>

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<FONT SIZE=4>A</FONT>s previously mentioned, Tierra Salvaje produces a line of wines in Argentina and Chile that are an excellent value. Most of these wines are in the $9 to $14 price range and drink like far more expensive wines. The wines are generally produced from the same grape varietals that are producing the non-kosher value wines from those same parts of the world. Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Bonarda, as well as blends of these grapes, are taking their place on the table of savvy kosher wine shoppers everywhere. Alfasi wines, produced in Chile, are made of grapes from the Maule Valley just south of Santiago, Chiles capital city. The sunny climate paired with cool ocean breezes and surrounding mountain ranges provide the ideal conditions for producing top-quality wine.</P>

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A</FONT>lthough many people are surprised to realize that much of the wine produced in Israel is not kosher, the level of professionalism in the rapidly expanding Israeli wine industry is impressive. Many of the enologists (practitioners of the science of winemaking) and winemakers in Israel were trained at University of California-Davis, which boasts one of the finest programs in viticulture and enology in the world. The wines from the Golan Heights area, in particular, are widely respected for their quality and expression of varietal character. Yarden and Golan are two of the better-known and more widely available producers from this area. The Haruni familys Dalton Vineyards, situated in the Upper Galilee just miles from the Lebanese border, is one of the few family-owned and -operated vineyards in Israel. Dalton produces a Reserve flagship series, the Dalton premium line, and the Canaan series of blended wines </P>

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<FONT SIZE=4>I</FONT>n Australia, the demand for kosher wine has been small because the Jewish community is small. Currently Australia is the third- largest exporter of wine to the U.S., behind only France and Italy. Part of what got the Aussies to that position is smart, forward-thinking marketing. Vegetarians like to drink wine that is free from contact with animal products such as gelatin, which is often used in the clarifying process. This niche has been targeted to good advantage by clever Aussie wine merchants.</P>

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<FONT SIZE=4>B</FONT>ecketts Flat is a boutique vineyard in the Margaret River Region of Western Australia. There, proprietors Bill (Belizar) and Noni Ilic are producing award-winning wines made from chardonnay, semillon, cabernet and shiraz. Teal Lake is another producer of high-quality wines made from those same varietals, and the wines are made in the same style as non-kosher Australian wines from those growing regions. </P>

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<FONT SIZE=4>T</FONT>he lush vineyards of the Sonoma and Napa valleys in California are no strangers to high-quality kosher wine production. Gan Eden and Hagafen are two of the better known labels that are in fairly wide distribution. Even Korbel, that refinery-sized production facility renowned for their sparkling wines, makes a kosher nonvintage brut that is consistent and reliably tasty from year to year. Royal Wine Company just broke ground in January 2004 on a new 77,000-square-foot winery in Oxnard, Calif. It will be the largest facility for producing dry, varietal kosher wines in North America. It will house production of the winemakers Baron Herzog, Herzog Special Reserve and Weinstock Cellars lines of kosher wines.</P>

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<FONT SIZE=4>I</FONT> recently had the good fortune of spending the afternoon with Ruvane Ribiat, general manager of Rosenberg Blue Star Wine Company of Northeast Philadelphia*. Ribiat is a charming host, and will engage you in a passionate discussion about the products that he carries. And he really knows his wines. In addition to travelling extensively in search of new products for Blue Stars portfolio, Ribiat regularly fills the role of sommelier for clients and caterers who send him menus for their special events. </P>

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Rosenberg Blue Star Wine Co. is currently located on a non-descript block of Castor Avenue in Northeast Philadelphia. In fact, its not immediately ascertainable that theres a wine shop within what appears to be a very nice Judaica shop. But wait until you get inside. The selection of wines not only rivals some better boutique wine shops, but also most certainly has the finest selection of kosher wines in this city, and virtually anywhere else I've ever seen. Prices range from around $5 for the Kedem and Manischevitz Concord and fruit- flavored wines (which can also be found at the PLCB stores) all the way up to Grand Cru Bordeaux by Roberto Cohen in the $375 price range. There are true French Champagnes from renowned houses such as Nicholas Feuillate, Heidsick-Monopole, Laurent-Perrier Brut or Rose and Pommery that are kosher. Who knew? Those of us who would undoubtedly pop open a bottle of Champagne for our guests for any other dinner party, can now also do so before or during the seder. In addition to wines, there is a very interesting selection of liqueurs and spirits available at Blue Star as well. Although a few are not kosher for Passover (for instance, the Old Williams Barrel Proof Bourbon or the 25-year-old Ambassador single malt scotch), you can certainly enjoy an after-seder Cognac if you are feeling so inclined.</P>

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All of the wines I have mentioned in the text of this article are available through Rosenberg Blue Star Wine Company. Prices are provided for specific wines that are suggested pairings with the following recipes.</P>

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L'Chaim and Bon Appetit!</P>

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*NOTE: Rosenberg Blue Star Wine Co. will be moving their location from 6408 Castor Avenue, Philadelphia to 144 Montgomery Avenue, Bala Cynwyd on March 21. Their current telephone number is 215.533.9250; this number will be forwarded to the new store location for at least the first few months of business. All prices listed are approximate.</P>

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<I>All recipes serve 6</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=#666666>Salmon Gefilte Fish</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=black>Chef/owner Michael McNally of Fairmounts London Grill prepares this gefilte fish with salmon for a different twist on a Passover classic. </P>

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2 onions, minced</P>

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2 tablespoons olive oil</P>

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8 cups fish broth</P>

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6 tablespoons matzo meal</P>

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5 pounds salmon filet, finely chopped</P>

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6 eggs, separated</P>

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1 cup chopped parsley</P>

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4 tablespoons chopped thyme</P>

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Salt, white pepper, cayenne to taste</P>

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Saute onion in oil. Cool onions in a bowl. Add to onions 1 cup broth, matzo meal, chopped fish, egg yolks, parsley, thyme, salt, pepper, and cayenne. Stir to combine. Beat whites until firm. Fold into fish mixture. Form into 4-ounce quenelles or small oblong balls. Poach in remaining stock about 5 minutes. Chill. Serve with horseradish.</P>

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A sparkling wine would compliment this dish very well, particularly the Laurent-Perrier Brut Rose ($70) or Abarbanel Brut Cremant d'Alsace NV ($22). For those who prefer a still wine, Australia's Becketts Flat Margaret River Semillon/ Sauvignon Blanc ($23) or Kolabarra Hills Chardonnay ($13.50) would be delicious. If you prefer a light red wine with salmon, as I do, Hagafen Pinot Noir ($28) from California or Backsberg Estate Pinotage ($14.50) from South Africa would compliment the meatiness of the salmon nicely.</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=#666666>Five Spice-Braised Beef Short Ribs</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=black>Executive Chef Michael Yeamans of Rouge suggests this savory dish to warm you during the holidays.</P>

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6 six inch single-bone beef short ribs</P>

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1 onion, diced</P>

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1/8 cup olive oil</P>

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3 ribs celery, diced</P>

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1 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger root</P>

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1 tablespoons chopped garlic</P>

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5 pieces star anise </P>

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3 cinnamon sticks</P>

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5 whole cloves</P>

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1 tablespoon Szechuan peppercorns*</P>

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1 cup honey</P>

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1 cup red wine vinegar</P>

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2 cups red wine</P>

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1 cup Kosher for Passover steak sauce</P>

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6 cups beef or veal stock</P>

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*available at Asian grocery stores</P>

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Preheat oven to 300. In a large Dutch oven or covered casserole, brown beef ribs in oil evenly on all sides. Remove from pan and add diced onion and celery. Saute for 5 minutes. Add ginger, garlic, star anise, cinnamon, cloves and peppercorns. Saute until the aroma of the spices is released. Add sugar, honey, sambal paste, vinegar, wine and steak sauce. Bring to a boil. Add stock and browned beef ribs. Cover and bake in a 300 oven for approximately 3 hours. Remove ribs and reduce sauce to desired consistency. Taste and adjust seasoning and serve sauce along with ribs. Serve this dish with sauteed spinach and quinoa pilaf (recipe follows).</P>

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A spicy red wine with a bit of tannin would compliment the spices in this rich dish nicely. Baron Herzog 2001 Lodi Zinfandel ($14.50) would be an excellent choice, as would the Kolobarra Hills 2002 Shiraz/ Cabernet ($14.50).</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=#666666>Quinoa Pilaf</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=black> 1 tablespoon olive oil</P>

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1 white onion, diced small</P>

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1 garlic clove, minced</P>

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2 cups quinoa</P>

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1 cup white wine</P>

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1 red pepper, diced</P>

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4 cups chicken (or vegetable) stock</P>

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1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced</P>

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Salt and pepper to taste</P>

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In an ovenproof skillet, heat olive oil and saute onion and garlic until they begin to color. Add quinoa, stir well, and cook for two minutes. Add white wine and cook until wine evaporates. Add red pepper and stir. Add stock, and bring to a boil. Cover pan with foil and bake for 20 minutes or until all liquid evaporates. Add scallions and stir. Taste for seasoning, correct with salt and pepper if required and serve.</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=#666666>Big-Eye Tuna Ceviche Picadillo</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=black>Owner/executive chef Guillermo Pernot of Pasion!, shares this recipe from his cookbook, <I>Ceviche: Seafood, Salads, and Cocktails With a Latino Twist</I> (Running Press). Picadillo comes from the Spanish term picar, to cut into small pieces. Traditional picadillo is generally made with ground beef, aromatics such as onion and garlic, tomato sauce and bold flavors such as cumin and vinegar. It often includes savory items such as olives and raisins or currants for a bit of sweetness. Here, the picadillo is made with a dice of fresh, raw big-eye tuna. The sauce recipe yields three cups. Use the remaining sauce to make an assertive vinaigrette for robust greens, like arugula or Belgian endive. This could even be used as a bed for the ceviche itself. Id suggest this dish as a modern and interesting variation for gefilte fish as a seder appetizer.</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=#666666>Tuna Ceviche</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=black> 1/2 lb. sushi grade ahi, or big-eye tuna cut into 1/2" dice</P>

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3 tblespoons sliced almonds, lightly toasted</P>

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2 tablespoons Zante currants or dark raisins</P>

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2 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley</P>

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2 tablespoons pitted green olives, sliced</P>

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1 cup Picadillo sauce (recipe below)</P>

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In a medium non-reactive (stainless steel or enameled) bowl, combine the tuna, almonds, currants, parsley, olives and Picadillo sauce. Taste for seasoning. Divide between plates and serve immediately.</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=#666666>Picadillo Sauce</FONT><FONT COLOR=black></P>

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1 bell pepper, seeded and diced</P>

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1/2 Spanish onion, peeled and diced</P>

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1 clove garlic</P>

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1/2 cup fresh lime juice</P>

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2 cups tomato puree</P>

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1 tablespoon ground cumin</P>

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1/2 cup kosher for Passover sherry or dry vermouth</P>

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1 cup tomato juice</P>

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1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil</P>

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3 tablespoons kosher salt</P>

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Combine all ingredients in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth.</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=#666666>Picadillo Vinaigrette</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=black>To 1 1/2 cups Picadillo sauce, add 3 tablespoons vinegar (preferably sherry vinegar) and an additional cup of extra virgin olive oil. Pour into the jar of a blender or food processor and process until smooth and creamy.</P>

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Assertive flavors such as these can be complimented with a robust sparkling wine such as the Laurent-Perrier Ros�($70) or a lightly sweet wine that isnt too bashful with its own flavors such as the Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc Late Harvest ($16.50) or the Yarden Riseling ($15).</P>

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Jerry Abramson is a classically trained chef and owner/operator of Matza Fun Tours, which provides 4,000 Passover meals at Disney Contemporary Resort in Orlando, Fla., and Ocean Place Resort and Spa in Long Branch, N.J. for his tour guests each Passover season. He and his wife, Shelly, are kosher food purveyors and also own and operate a Kosher catering business based in Cherry Hill. </P>

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For a Sephardic-influenced recipe, Jerry suggests this spiced escabeche style fish preparation.</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=#666666></P>

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Moroccan Fish</P>

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</FONT><I><FONT COLOR=black>Serves 6 to 8</P>

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</FONT></I><FONT COLOR=black> 2 whole 3-pound red snapper or striped bass, head and tail removed and cleaned</P>

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OR</P>

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2 pounds fish fillets</P>

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Charmoula (recipe below)</P>

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Chopsticks</P>

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3 large potatoes, peeled and shredded </P>

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3 large ripe tomatoes, sliced</P>

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3 green bell peppers, halved</P>

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2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped</P>

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1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste</P>

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1/2 cup lemon juice</P>

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1/2 cup olive oil</P>

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Preheat oven to 400. Slice whole fish (if using) crosswise into 3 or 4 pieces. Rub fish pieces/fillets with charmoula and let stand 30 minutes at room temperature. Lay chopsticks along bottom of a shallow roasting pan and lay fish steaks or fillets on chopsticks. Dip potatoes into charmoula and place over fish. Dip tomato and bell peppers into charmoula and layer over potatoes. Sprinkle garlic over vegetables. Mix remaining charmoula with tomato paste, lemon juice, oil and 1/2 cup water. Cover with foil and bake 35 minutes. Remove foil. Turn up oven temperature to 500. Bake at 500 until fish is cooked through and a crust has formed on the vegetables. Serve warm.</P>

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An aromatic white wine is what a spicy dish like this calls for. Abarbanel Riesling or Gewurztraminer from Alsace fits the bill perfectly. ($21). M. Rappaport Riesling from Luxembourg ($18) would also complement this well.</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=#666666>Charmoula</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=black>Charmoula is a traditional Moroccan marinade made with tomatoes, lemon, paprika, garlic, cumin, and cilantro. It is also delicious on chicken.</P>

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1/2 cup each chopped cilantro and chopped parsley</P>

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5 cloves garlic, peeled</P>

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1/2 cup lemon juice</P>

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1 1/2 teaspoons salt</P>

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1 teaspoon paprika</P>

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1/2 teaspoon ground cumin</P>

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2 tablespoons vinegar</P>

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Blend all ingredients with mortar and pestle or in a food processor to a paste.</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=#666666>Passover Carrot Cake</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=black>This is one of Jerry Abramsons popular dessert recipes, adapted for Passover. </P>

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Vegetable oil cooking spray</P>

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1 1/2 cups vegetable oil</P>

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2 cups sugar</P>

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4 eggs</P>

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1 1/2 cups matzo cake meal</P>

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2 teaspoons baking soda</P>

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2 teaspoons cinnamon</P>

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1 teaspoon salt</P>

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3 cups raw grated carrots</P>

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1 cup chopped walnuts</P>

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Preheat oven to 350. Spray a 9 x 12-inch loaf pan or cake pan with insert very lightly with vegetable cooking spray. In a large bowl, combine oil and sugar. Add eggs, one at a time and beat well. Sift together dry ingredients and add to oil, sugar and egg mixture. Fold carrots into mixture. Add nuts. Bake in loaf pan for 30 to 40 minutes or in a cake pan with an insert for 1 hour, or until a toothpick comes out cleanly. Cool. </P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=#666666>Cream Cheese Icing</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=black> 2 3-ounce packages cream cheese, at room temperature</P>

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6 tablespoons margarine, at room temperature</P>

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2 cups Kosher for Passover powdered sugar*</P>

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1 teaspoon vanilla extract</P>

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Using electric mixer, beat cream cheese and butter in large bowl until smooth. Add powdered sugar and vanilla; beat until fluffy and smooth. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover; chill. Bring to room temperature, then beat until fluffy before using.)</P>

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*If you are unable to locate Kosher for Passover powdered sugar you can make your own. For each cup needed take one cup minus one tablespoon of granulated sugar plus one tablespoon of potato starch. Whirl in blender or food processor until finely powdered and fluffy.</P>

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Variations:</P>

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Lemon cream cheese icing: add 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest and 1 tablespoon lemon juice to basic recipe.</P>

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Ginger cream cheese icing: add 2 tablespoons finely grated peeled fresh Ginger root to basic recipe in place of vanilla extract.</P>

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Maple cream cheese icing: add 1/2 cup pure maple syrup to basic recipe.</P>

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The delicious and refreshing accompaniment for this dessert would be a Moscato d'Asti, a lightly sweet and aromatic sparkling wine from Italy. Rashi, Bartenura and Villa Santoro Moscato dAsti are all available at Blue Star wines. ($12.50 for any of the above)</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=#666666>Flourless Chocolate Torte</P>

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</FONT><FONT COLOR=black>Rx executive chef Luis Melendez likes to use air-dried orange zest for both a flavor and texture counterpoint to the richness of this dessert, a real crowd-pleaser at this University City BYOB.</P>

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18 ounces dark chocolate (preferably 70% cocoa or higher) </P>

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1 pound margarine</P>

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8 eggs</P>

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1 cup granulated sugar</P>

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4 ounces brewed espresso</P>

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Zest of one orange, dried </P>

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Pomegranate molasses (available at Middle Eastern markets)</P>

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Preheat oven to 350. </P>

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In a double boiler over medium-low heat, melt the chocolate and margarine together. Let cool slightly and reserve. </P>

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Beat the eggs and sugar together until frothy. </P>

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Add the egg mixture to the chocolate and whisk until well-incorporated. Stir in espresso. </P>

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Pour batter into a 9-inch springform that has been oiled and sugared. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the cake barely jiggles. </P>

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Refrigerate until set. </P>

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When ready to serve, drizzle pomegranate molasses on plate. Set slice of cake atop molasses. </P>

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Pairing wine with a chocolate dessert can sometimes be a challenge. Ribiat suggests a Spanish Monastrell Dulce, a sweet late harvest red dessert wine from producer Tierra Salvaje ($26.50). For those that prefer port with their chocolate, Kedem New York State port is a real bargain for an excellent quality product ($14.99)</P>

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Katie Loeb is the wine and spirits muse for Rouge Restaurant in Philadelphia. This is her first contribution to Special Sections.</FONT></P>

Katie M. Loeb
Booze Muse, Spiritual Advisor

Author: Shake, Stir, Pour:Fresh Homegrown Cocktails

Cheers!
Bartendrix,Intoxicologist, Beverage Consultant, Philadelphia, PA
Captain Liberty of the Good Varietals, Aphrodite of Alcohol

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Great writing Katie. I have had almost all the wines you talk about at one point or another. And the recipes look great. I've been thinking about doing something with raw tuna, so I might make the recipe you provide.

Have you gotten any feedback on your article?

"Some people see a sheet of seaweed and want to be wrapped in it. I want to see it around a piece of fish."-- William Grimes

"People are bastard-coated bastards, with bastard filling." - Dr. Cox on Scrubs

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Extremely impressive and thorough approach to this topic, Katie! I am planning to try the tuna ceviche, as Bloviatrix mentioned, as a change from my usual gravlax and gefilte fish appetizer course.

The wine pairing suggestions are also available here in Atlanta, for the most part. I love Moscato di Asti and have served it on occasion to my guests' delight.

Thank you again for the inspiration to try new recipes and attempt even more creative Passover endeavors in our own kitchens! :biggrin:

Melissa Goodman aka "Gifted Gourmet"

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:blush: Thanks everyone! Feedback so far has been universally positive, so I'm quite pleased. I really enjoyed doing the research for this and some of the recipes look wonderful. The Five Spiced Short Ribs is currently on the menu at Rouge and is one of my favorites. I've had the Salmon Gefilte Fish a la Michael McNally before and it's delicious. All of Chef Guillermo Pernot's recipes are wonderful, and although he'd submitted a couple of recipes that didn't conform to Pesadich rules initially (hard to explain the subtle nuances of no corn or soy sauce to an Argentine chef that knows not of Passover cooking or rules), he had far too much integrity to dumb a recipe down, and instead insisted on finding something in his book he would be proud to have me publish and post. I really respect that. The Passover Carrot Cake recipe also looks intriguing and I'm definitely going to whip up a batch of that Charmoula to have in the fridge to top chicken or fish very soon. And the Chcolate Torte sounds deep, dark delicious and deadly! I'm thinking these recipes would be good at any time of the year, not just for the Seder.

Anyone that has a good source for the wines I mention in their cities, please post them so everyone can benefit. And please let me know how the recipe experimentation goes and whether the dishes were a hit with family and guests.

I hope the article inspires some experimenting with both the recipes and the wines. And if you have to drink (at least) four glasses, for the love of all that's holy, it oughta be good! :biggrin:

Katie M. Loeb
Booze Muse, Spiritual Advisor

Author: Shake, Stir, Pour:Fresh Homegrown Cocktails

Cheers!
Bartendrix,Intoxicologist, Beverage Consultant, Philadelphia, PA
Captain Liberty of the Good Varietals, Aphrodite of Alcohol

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Here's a list a places in the metro-NY area with excellent kosher wine selections:

Skyview

5681 Riverdale Ave (Food Emporium shopping center)

718/601-8222

They have a very large selection and are currently holding their semi-annual sale. They're also more than willing to open bottles for tastings. Call for their list. And they deliver to Manhattan for free (I'm not sure of the the rest of their delivery area)

Gotham Wines

Broadway btw 93 & 94 (west side of street)

Another very large selection. Also currently having a sale. Sales staff can be obnoxious.

Park Ave Liquors

Madison btw 40 & 41 (west side of street)

Fabulous wine selection. Expensive. Staff is very helpful and knowledgable. No delivery charge in manhattan (I can say this definitely for a case or more, don't know about less). And, although not for Pesach -- they have the best single-malt scotch selection in Manhattan.

New Jersey -- in Teaneck, corner of Queen Anne and East Pallisades. Don't know the name, but they seem to specialize in kosher wines.

Long Island -- in Cedarhurst on Central Ave - Chateau de Vin. If I remember correctly, they only stock kosher wines.

"Some people see a sheet of seaweed and want to be wrapped in it. I want to see it around a piece of fish."-- William Grimes

"People are bastard-coated bastards, with bastard filling." - Dr. Cox on Scrubs

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Fabulous Katie. :smile: Can I put those recipes into RecipeGullet , if they aren't there already (hint hint) :biggrin:

Marlene

Practice. Do it over. Get it right.

Mostly, I want people to be as happy eating my food as I am cooking it.

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Fabulous Katie. :smile: Can I put those recipes into RecipeGullet , if they aren't there already (hint hint) :biggrin:

Marlene:

By all means please do, with attribution to the chefs, of course . I wish I could but I just had 2.5 months worth of backlogged accounting entries dumped on me at work and it looks like I won't have time to scratch an itch for the next several weeks :angry:.

Katie M. Loeb
Booze Muse, Spiritual Advisor

Author: Shake, Stir, Pour:Fresh Homegrown Cocktails

Cheers!
Bartendrix,Intoxicologist, Beverage Consultant, Philadelphia, PA
Captain Liberty of the Good Varietals, Aphrodite of Alcohol

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Since Passover is in about 10 days, the articles on Kosher Wines are starting to come out. In the 3/26 Weekend Section of the WSJ, Gaiter and Brecher have their annual write-up. This year they write that about how kosher wines are coming from a wider range of places around the world than ever before.

For those of you who don't have access to the article, the wines they featured are:

Yarden Brut, NV (Israel)

Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne Brut, NV (France)

Kleine Draken Sauvignon Blanc 2001 (South Africa)

Macon-Peronne "Les Plaisirs, Cave de Lugny" 2000 (Fr.)

Ramon Cardova Rioja 2001 (Spain)

Layla Vineyards Malbec 2000 Maule Valley (Chile)

Egri Bikaver (Thummer Winery) 'Langer Reserve' 1998 (Hungary)

Chateau Leoville Poyferre 1999 Bordeaux

Rashi Moscato d'Asti 2001 (Italy)

Gan Eden Late Harvest Gewurztraminer 2001 Monterey Cty.

Chateau Piada Sauternes 2000

We drank the the Cardova Rioja last weekend and were pleasantly suprised. It was a light red with lots of spritely berries. Nice finish - very soft, almost butter like. This might become our house red.

"Some people see a sheet of seaweed and want to be wrapped in it. I want to see it around a piece of fish."-- William Grimes

"People are bastard-coated bastards, with bastard filling." - Dr. Cox on Scrubs

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Katie -- I attended a wine tasting this afternoon sponsored by Gotham Wines. They had people from the various distributors there and I spent some time talking with the gentleman from Tzalis Wine Group which distributes Tierra Salvaje. I told him about your article (unfortunately I couldn't remember the name of the paper so I just said the Jewish paper in Phila.).

"Some people see a sheet of seaweed and want to be wrapped in it. I want to see it around a piece of fish."-- William Grimes

"People are bastard-coated bastards, with bastard filling." - Dr. Cox on Scrubs

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Katie -- I attended a wine tasting this afternoon sponsored by Gotham Wines. They had people from the various distributors there and I spent some time talking with the gentleman from Tzalis Wine Group which distributes Tierra Salvaje. I told him about your article (unfortunately I couldn't remember the name of the paper so I just said the Jewish paper in Phila.).

Cool - did you get the gentleman's business card by chance? If you did please send me his e-mail and I'll send him a link to the article. I'd love to know if they sell their wines in Southern NJ, and where. I'm often over there and stuff tends to be a little less expensive than it is in PA. I'm still planning a trip to Blue Star wines before next week to go fetch some wines for the Seder I'm attending.

I've tried quite a few of the wines recommended in the article from the WSJ. All excellent recommendations. Thanks for posting that.

Katie M. Loeb
Booze Muse, Spiritual Advisor

Author: Shake, Stir, Pour:Fresh Homegrown Cocktails

Cheers!
Bartendrix,Intoxicologist, Beverage Consultant, Philadelphia, PA
Captain Liberty of the Good Varietals, Aphrodite of Alcohol

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I didn't get the guy's name. However, I did find their web site.

Tzalis

Maybe they can get you a list of S. Jersey wine stores. What's the wine situation in Cherry Hill? I know there's a fairly sizable jewish community there.

I tasted a dessert wine they're doing called Yelca Dolce. It's made with the monastrell grape that was unbelievable. Although a red wine, it was honied like a sauternes. But very rich with tastes almost port like. We were talking about dessert ideas such as poaching pears - no need for sugar in the liquid. Or with a flourless chocolate cake. I'm planning on picking up 2 or 3 bottles (they come in 500 ml).

"Some people see a sheet of seaweed and want to be wrapped in it. I want to see it around a piece of fish."-- William Grimes

"People are bastard-coated bastards, with bastard filling." - Dr. Cox on Scrubs

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I didn't get the guy's name.  However, I did find their web site.

Tzalis

Maybe they can get you a list of S. Jersey wine stores.  What's the wine situation in Cherry Hill?  I know there's a fairly sizable jewish community there.

I tasted a dessert wine they're doing called Yelca Dolce.  It's made with the monastrell grape that was unbelievable.  Although a red wine, it was honied like a sauternes.  But very rich with tastes almost port like.  We were talking about dessert ideas such as poaching pears - no need for sugar in the liquid.  Or with a flourless chocolate cake.  I'm planning on picking up 2 or 3 bottles (they come in 500 ml).

I think this is the wine that Mr. Ribiat recommended to pair with the Flourless Chocolate Torte recipe in the article. I know he carries that, so I should be able to find it at Blue Star.

Cherry Hill is exactly where I'd be going if I were to wine shop. Yes, there's a sizable Jewish community in Cherry Hill. There's also an abundance of liquor/wine shops. Do you think there's any connection?? :biggrin:

Thanks for the link. I'll definitely check it out.

Katie M. Loeb
Booze Muse, Spiritual Advisor

Author: Shake, Stir, Pour:Fresh Homegrown Cocktails

Cheers!
Bartendrix,Intoxicologist, Beverage Consultant, Philadelphia, PA
Captain Liberty of the Good Varietals, Aphrodite of Alcohol

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I think this is the wine that Mr. Ribiat recommended to pair with the Flourless Chocolate Torte recipe in the article. I know he carries that, so I should be able to find it at Blue Star.

I went back and re-read the final passage of your article. It's the same wine.

"Some people see a sheet of seaweed and want to be wrapped in it. I want to see it around a piece of fish."-- William Grimes

"People are bastard-coated bastards, with bastard filling." - Dr. Cox on Scrubs

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I think this is the wine that Mr. Ribiat recommended to pair with the Flourless Chocolate Torte recipe in the article.  I know he carries that, so I should be able to find it at Blue Star.

I went back and re-read the final passage of your article. It's the same wine.

Yummy! I love the poached pears idea! :wub:

So I'll take that as an enthusiastic "yes" that it was tasty and worth buying. Will definitely look for it prior to the holiday.

Katie M. Loeb
Booze Muse, Spiritual Advisor

Author: Shake, Stir, Pour:Fresh Homegrown Cocktails

Cheers!
Bartendrix,Intoxicologist, Beverage Consultant, Philadelphia, PA
Captain Liberty of the Good Varietals, Aphrodite of Alcohol

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This lapsed Episcopalian (aren't we all?) shiksa loved this article, and the recipes, Missie Katie! I married a lapsed Catholic, but attended many the Passover feast with a series of hunky Jewish boyfriends. Would their Dads have had this article handy when it came to the pairing part.

Wonderful.

Margaret McArthur

"Take it easy, but take it."

Studs Terkel

1912-2008

A sensational tennis blog from freakyfrites

margaretmcarthur.com

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This lapsed Episcopalian (aren't we all?) shiksa loved this article, and the recipes, Missie Katie! I married a lapsed Catholic, but attended many the Passover feast with a series of hunky Jewish boyfriends. Would their Dads have had this article handy when it came to the pairing part.

Wonderful.

Thanks Maggie! :smile:

Save those recipes. I thnk they'd be great for any occasion, no?

What I want to know is where'd you find the HUNKY Jewish boyfriends? Must be the water out there in the Heartland. <she heaves a heavy sigh>

Katie M. Loeb
Booze Muse, Spiritual Advisor

Author: Shake, Stir, Pour:Fresh Homegrown Cocktails

Cheers!
Bartendrix,Intoxicologist, Beverage Consultant, Philadelphia, PA
Captain Liberty of the Good Varietals, Aphrodite of Alcohol

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I think this is the wine that Mr. Ribiat recommended to pair with the Flourless Chocolate Torte recipe in the article.  I know he carries that, so I should be able to find it at Blue Star.

I went back and re-read the final passage of your article. It's the same wine.

Yummy! I love the poached pears idea! :wub:

So I'll take that as an enthusiastic "yes" that it was tasty and worth buying. Will definitely look for it prior to the holiday.

I placed an order for 2 bottles at Gotham (my local store) today. So yes, I liked it A LOT. :wub:

"Some people see a sheet of seaweed and want to be wrapped in it. I want to see it around a piece of fish."-- William Grimes

"People are bastard-coated bastards, with bastard filling." - Dr. Cox on Scrubs

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This lapsed Episcopalian (aren't we all?) shiksa  loved this article, and the recipes, Missie Katie!  I married a lapsed Catholic, but attended many the Passover feast with a series of hunky Jewish boyfriends.  Would their Dads have had this article handy when it came to the pairing part.

Wonderful.

Thanks Maggie! :smile:

Save those recipes. I thnk they'd be great for any occasion, no?

What I want to know is where'd you find the HUNKY Jewish boyfriends? Must be the water out there in the Heartland. <she heaves a heavy sigh>

Shiksa here too. Those hunky boys were all over Cleveland's eastside when I lived in Shaker Heights. :raz:

I love your fantastic article.

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This lapsed Episcopalian (aren't we all?) shiksa  loved this article, and the recipes, Missie Katie!  I married a lapsed Catholic, but attended many the Passover feast with a series of hunky Jewish boyfriends.  Would their Dads have had this article handy when it came to the pairing part.

Wonderful.

Thanks Maggie! :smile:

Save those recipes. I thnk they'd be great for any occasion, no?

What I want to know is where'd you find the HUNKY Jewish boyfriends? Must be the water out there in the Heartland. <she heaves a heavy sigh>

Shiksa here too. Those hunky boys were all over Cleveland's eastside when I lived in Shaker Heights. :raz:

I love your fantastic article.

Shiksa here too. Those hunky boys were all over Cleveland's eastside when I lived in Shaker Heights.

Aha! So my "Heartland-water-makes-Hunky-Jewish-Boys" theory holds water (so to speak) :biggrin:

I love your fantastic article.

Thanks Beans! :smile:

Katie M. Loeb
Booze Muse, Spiritual Advisor

Author: Shake, Stir, Pour:Fresh Homegrown Cocktails

Cheers!
Bartendrix,Intoxicologist, Beverage Consultant, Philadelphia, PA
Captain Liberty of the Good Varietals, Aphrodite of Alcohol

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italian catholic girl here who married a hunky jewish boy and now hosts all the jewish holidays ;)

loved all your recipes/wine advice!

I hope to make a few over passover (sister in law is a veggie so it might be tuff), forwarded the short ribs recipe to my mother in law and she sends her undying love to you for it!

we were lucky enough to pick up some nice italian kosher wines this summer in tuscany (my husband was happy and surprised that there was such a selection)

thanks again for the great article

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italian catholic girl here who married a hunky jewish boy and now hosts all the jewish holidays ;)

loved all your recipes/wine advice!

I hope to make a few over passover (sister in law is a veggie so it might be tuff), forwarded the short ribs recipe to my mother in law and she sends her undying love to you for it!

we were lucky enough to pick up some nice italian kosher wines this summer in tuscany (my husband was happy and surprised that there was such a selection)

thanks again for the great article

Dang - where the heck are all these hunky Jewish boys??? :biggrin:

Thanks for the props. :smile: Your MIL is most welcome. Let me know how the recipe turns out. I always wonder if the directions translate from the page well enough to reproduce the results we get in the restaurant every day. Those short ribs are on our menu right now and are quite a big seller. The only change to the recipe was to substitute Kosher for Passover steak sauce for what would normally be SOY sauce. It should still color the sauce and provide the salt that the forbidden soy sauce would have.

The Tuscan wines sound lovely! Actually I'm certain that a nice Brunello or Sangiovese would be delicious with these as well. YUM!!!

Katie M. Loeb
Booze Muse, Spiritual Advisor

Author: Shake, Stir, Pour:Fresh Homegrown Cocktails

Cheers!
Bartendrix,Intoxicologist, Beverage Consultant, Philadelphia, PA
Captain Liberty of the Good Varietals, Aphrodite of Alcohol

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Dang - where the heck are all these hunky Jewish boys???  :biggrin:

They live in Chicago, drive Slick PT Cruisers and are good to their mothers. :raz:

See - it IS the Heartland water! My theory still holds true... :raz:

Besides, dearest Fress, I had to wonder whether you had any competition out there :biggrin:

Katie M. Loeb
Booze Muse, Spiritual Advisor

Author: Shake, Stir, Pour:Fresh Homegrown Cocktails

Cheers!
Bartendrix,Intoxicologist, Beverage Consultant, Philadelphia, PA
Captain Liberty of the Good Varietals, Aphrodite of Alcohol

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