Boiled Beef

[cabrales]

Boeuf à la ficelle is not what most people think of when boiled beef is mentioned . . . .

A lot of people, myself included, would say that it goes against all reason to produce as good a boeuf à la ficelle, or even "tenderloin without string," by poaching in water vs. a flavorful broth.

James Beard includes a recipe for boeuf a la ficelle in "Delights and Prejudices". He begins with comments on the cut of beef:

"If you want to try a particularly delicious recipe, order a boneless sirloin and have it tied well with very little fat and no barding. This is the cut for a famous dish -- boeuf a la ficelle. You may use a whole filet or individual filet steaks or a fine piece of sirloin. The beef should be tied separately and, as indicated by the name, there must be a long string attached to the meat for lifting it from the pot in which it cooks. There must be some type of hanger above the stove as well, for the piece of beef must be suspended by the string in a large container of broth to cook to the degree of rareness you prefer."

Beard concludes with suggestions on serving:

"Serve this deliciously different dish with coarse salt, boiled potatoes, with or without some of the broth, and mustard or horseradish if you wish. Served with mustard sauce, anchovy butter or bearnaise [yum!], it's a splendid treat and one that confounds all people who claim they dislike boiled beef.  Try it with a good Chateauneuf du Pape or Hermitage."

[cabrales]

James Beard includes a recipe for boeuf a la ficelle in "Delights and Prejudices"

Beard's recipe, which utilizes broth, follows:

"First make a strong rich broth with bones, meat, vegetables and good seasoning. Lower the beef into this and cook it at high heat for a few minutes, then simmer it until it is delightfully rare on the inside and just colored by the broth on the outside. The cooking time is the same as for roasting a filet: about 25 minutes for a good-sized whole filet and about 8 to 10 minutes for individual ones."

[cabrales]

In "Villas At Table", James Villas devotes a chapter to boiled beef. Excerpts follow:

"When prepared and served properly, boiled beef is one of the most succulent dishes ever conceived by man. . . .Over the centuries, virtually every nation in the world has come to boast one style or another of boiled beef (Danish 'sprengt oksebryst', Czechoslovakian 'houezi maso', Romanian 'cacuta', Italian 'bollito misto', Russian 'otvarnaia govyadina', Spanish and Mexican 'cocido', German 'Rindfleisch', Argentine 'puchero', Chinese aromatic boiled beef, Irish corned beef and cabbage), but surely no one has loved and respected the dish more than the English, the Austrians and the French. . . . In his delightful book 'Blue Trout and Truffles' [Note the name of the book actually refers to "Black" "Truffles"], the late Joseph Wechsberg devoted an entire chapter to the celebrated boiled beef of Vienna . . . . "

Villas proceeded to describe how boiled beef could be enjoyed at home, and concluded with a pargraph on his most memorable sampling of boiled beef:

"the 'boeuf a la ficelle' I used to order on the much-lamented S.S. France. . . .Out from the galley it came, this unadorned, slightly undercooked whole tenderloin still in its bouillon . . . . The aromas were intoxicating. After the fillet was sliced and the juicy pink slabs were arranged across the center of large heated dinner plates, the waiter untied the steaming vegetables and distributed them artistically around the rosy, mouth-watering beef. The captain supplied the tables with ramekins of coarse salt, hot mustard and French cornichons; added a few grinds of fresh pepper to the meat; . . . This is boiled beef in all its unpretentious and natural glory . . . ."

[Fat Guy]

Thanks for bringing this thread to the top again, Cabrales, as it is one of my all-time favorites on eGullet. It represents our site at its best.

[cabrales]

For Relais Gourmand's recent 30th anniversary celebration in Paris, Michel Troisgros offered, among other things: Faux-filet de bœuf poché aux cèpes séchés et vermicelles chinois (Poached faux-filet of beef with dried porcinis and Chinese vermicelli):

http://www.saveurs.sympatico.ca/relais/men...enu/viandes.htm

(menu relating to meats for the dinner)

Given J McManus' Q&A and her mention of a Relais Gourmand dinner in Paris in mid-June, I followed up on whether a story came out of it. . . .

"A gala dinner in Paris Thursday night is just the beginning of the Relais Gourmands' 30th anniversary celebration. . . ."

Although the name of the dish does not include a reference to "ficelle" (string), the associated recipe does:

http://www.saveurs.sympatico.ca/relais/pro.../charolais3.htm

-- Part of Step 2 -- "Frotter le morceau de viande sur toutes les faces avec du gros sel et du poivre fraîchement moulu. Le **ficeler** comme un rôti, en gardant à une extrémité une longueur de **ficelle** suffisante pour l'attacher à une poignée de la marmite."

-- Part of Step 4 -- "retirer le morceau de viande à l'aide **de la ficelle**, puis le laisser reposer à température ambiante"

An almost identical dish is described in Michael Buller's "French Chefs Cooking" (1999). The ingredients for Filet of Beef on a String, with Mushrooms and Chinese Vermicelli (Filet de Boeuf a la Ficelle aux cepes seches et Vermicelles Chinoises) include: dried mushrooms, mountain spring water ("such as Evian"), consomee, beef filet, coarse seat salt and pepper to taste, peeled and blanched celeriac, short vermicelli and strong Dijon-style mustard. Buller notes that the recipe resulted from a collaboration between Pierre and his son Michel Troisgros, after the passing of Jean.

[cabrales]

It represents our site at its best.

Steven -- When you have a chance, could you consider describing why you consider this thread to represent the board "at its best"?

[Fat Guy]

I always have time for you, Cabrales. As you can see from a review of this thread, one of our users -- Liza -- posted a link to an article in the New York Times by Mark Bittman about boiled beef. Then, after a little discussion, who got in on it? Well, first Russ Parsons, who at that time was the editor of the top (or at least one of the top) food section in the country, at the LA Times. Then I noticed there had been an article about boiled beef in the Washington Post on the same day, by the always clever Edward Schneider, so I posted about that.

As the discussion progressed, both Mark Bittman *and* Edward Schneider joined in to comment on their articles and the users' comments. So we had several high-powered food writers/editors on the line, we had several of our moderators participating, and we had right alongside them many of our regular -- call them amateur if you like, though it's a bit of a loaded term -- users who were behaving as equals and being treated as equals. That's the beauty of eGullet, and that's what makes it such a unique media phenomenon.

[Peter B Wolf]

It represents our site at its best.

Steven -- When you have a chance, could you consider describing why you consider this thread to represent the board "at its best"?

Because I just added a couple of Dollars worth of wisdom. Read on:

Recipes in detail are not provided often enough on these threats. I think some of this has to do with the inherent sophistication of posters. Some might say “mine is not good enough”, others may feel inadequate to their “eGullet peers”. But reading is learning, and writing can be learning as well. Especially when writing gets read, and commented about. As it is on eGullet.

So here it goes. My way of “Boiled Beef”, as it is directly adopted from Oma, and even approved of by my cousin’s wife, who is an aristocrat from Vienna, and swears by her “Tafelspitz”.

Make a Mirepoix of Carrots, Knob Celery (Rave), Rutabaga, Onion, Garlic and Parsley Stems. Lightly brown in fresh slaughtered Porkfat, deglaze vessel with previously reduced Balsamic Vinegar (the cheaper kind, Fat Guy once mentioned somewhere else how to make this) add a little of a dry Riesling, reducing all to a moist stew type mixture.

For the “Beef”, buy a fresh (not corned) Brisket, make sure it’s the full size one with Deckel, and it should be USDA Choice grade. Probable weight is around eight pounds +. Place the meat in a “Brassiere” (roasting pan with tight fitting lit) surrounded by the Mirepoix, two/three Bay Leaves, a handful whole black Peppercorns, and two/three whole Cloves, a half a Cinnamon stick, and a half a whole, but slightly smashed Nutmeg. The zested peel of a Lemon and a handful Juniper Berries will do wonders.

Now add enough cold Water as to one third of the height of the Beef in the pan, plus some Salt, and cover. The more snug the meat fits the pan the least water is needed, resulting in a more flavorful broth at the end of braising. Place into a preheated oven (375F) for about 30-min. Now reduce heat to 275F and leave this alone for two more hours. Remove and let cool in its broth (uncovered) overnight. Your windowsill will be just fine, no refrigeration needed. Next day, lift meat from broth, “papertowle” it dry, place on carving board and slice against grain about 1/3 inch thick. Keep slices together. Strain broth and adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar, heating first. Place sliced meat into individual shallow bowls (European soup plates are ideal) warm very briefly in a Microwave, then pouring the heated broth over it. Serve immediately. The whole thing only sprinkled with chopped Italian Parsley and a few grains Sea Salt (Kosher Salt would do).

And now to the rest of the story. No “Tafelspitz” is finished without the proper Horseradish. And that is done the Wolf’s way:

Scrub, peel and hand grate a fresh very firm Horseradish root. You will cry a bit, but will get no cold for the rest of the year. Now, by volume, grate peeled and cored Granny Smith Apples, to amount to one third of the radish. Mix all, again by volume, with equal parts of Mayonnaise, Cream Cheese and whipped up Heavy Cream to one third of the amount of both, radish and apples. Add a bit of Lemon Juice and a pinch of Salt. This should be done at least a day or more in advance of the boiled beef. Covered and refrigerated, this mixture will keep for weeks on end. As a matter of fact it will “grow” hotter.

Many “k.&k. Wiener” will want to shoot me (possibly). I’ll try harder next time, I promise.

[Peter B Wolf]

Thanks for bringing this thread to the top again, Cabrales, as it is one of my all-time favorites on eGullet. It represents our site at its best.

Steven, so please read my recipe for it and, yes, please comment

[Fat Guy]

Peter, I'll do one better and ask you a question to which you may reply: Isn't your recipe really for braised beef?

[Peter B Wolf]

Steven, right you are, as most of the time. The only thing I have to say about it is, that in the German language there is no real word for to "braise", (except "geschmort" - which in turn would mean a "browned" end product) and "gekochtes Rindfleisch", or "Tafelspitz", translates to "boiled". Thanks for your always valued comment(s), and this is not ment demeaningly.

[cabrales]

In reviewing another James Beard book, "Beard on Food" (1974), I noticed a number of references to boiled beef:

-- On the bollito misto then available (at least) at Quo Vadis (Saturday lunch during winter months): "When this comes rolling out of the kitchen on a cart, it is a dramatic sight. First, there is a fine piece of boiled beef flavored with pot vegetables and herbs, and very often some veal or a veal tongue, or a calf's head or feet for contrast. There is always a large Italian sausage -- a cotechino or zampone (a sausage stuffed in a boned pig's foot), and usually a chicken or a capon. . . . [The dish] needs to be prepared with great care, patience, and style. While it bears some resemblance to the French pot-au-feu or the New England boiled dinner, it has certain distinct variations which make it, to my mind, infinitely more interesting. . . . [recipe for this dish] . . . . As accompaniments, I have course salt, horseradish sauce, and the traditional sauce verte, a vinaigrette sauce made with 3 parts oil to 1 part wine vinegar, salt, pepper, and finely chopped parsley, chives and thyme -- it should be really thick with herbs. Also traditional are Italian mustard fruits . . . ; their sharp flavor goes well with the meats. . . ."

-- On the use of aioli: "It will emerge as a dense, mayonnaise-like mass, highly fragrant and flavored with garlic . . . . It makes a magnificient sauce for . . . . hot or cold meats such as boiled beef or lamb."

-- On caper sauce: "[W]hen it starts with a base of a good bechamel sauce, with the piquant acidity of the capers coming through, it is a marvelous complement to boiled or poached meats -- boiled beef, as well as lamb or mutton, and poached chicken." A recipe followed this description.

-- There are two pages on pot-au-feu. "It's simple, certainly, but it is precisely the simplicity of preparation and the honest, appetizing flavors that make this one of the outstanding gastronomic treats of all time. . . . One of the greatest virtues of this [pot-au-feu] meal in a pot is that you can cook more than you need, reheat the beef next day, and serve it up with a crisp home-fried potatoes . . . . or turn the cold boiled beef into a glorious salad or hash."

-- A discussion on mincemeat includes the boiling of beef and beef tongue. Also included in Beard's book is a beef-and-rice salad using finely diced cold boiled beef or roast beef. Similar beef is described for a Beef Salad Parisienne recipe.

[torakris]

Well after reading through this thread for the first time, I have one question:

Did anyone actually try to make the boiled beef?

If so how was it?

My first experience with boiled beef was in Ohio's Amish Country, where it is a very popular buffet dish. I found it very bland as it was served with nothing.

Then a couple of month's ago I made a beef pho from a recipe in Hot Sour Salty Sweet, oxtails were boiled until tender and the meat was later dipped into a salt and pepper mixture moistened with a little lime juice.

Absolutely delicious!!

[steverino]

Well, I'll bump this topic back up . . .

Yesterday, after reading this thread, I became intrigued. As luck would have it, I had a 12oz. strip steak, closely trimmed, about an inch thick, sitting in my fridge waiting to be cooked.

So, I figured, BOIL THAT BABY!

Simply enough, I seasoned it with kosher salt and cracked pepper. Keep it simple for my "first time".

Brought water to a boil, and placed the steak in a resealable, zipper-type heavy-duty plastic envelope. I skewered the bag at the height which would immerse the meat, without allowing it to touch the bottom of the pot.

I lowered it into the boiling water, and let the skewer rest on top of the pot.

I figured I would let it go 1 minute per oz. About 8 minutes in, I pulled it up and gave it a pinch. It felt about "rare", and I decided to cut the time back to 10 minutes.

I pulled it out and cut in in half, to check the "temp". It was about medium rare. (A little overdone for me). I cut a thin slice, and tasted it. It was delicious! Very "beefy", tender, and surprisingly juicy! I typically like a dark, caramelized crust, so it was a bit foreign to have this plain gray exterior.

I think the concept of searing after boiling has much merit, as does the addition of wet / dry seasoning before.

All in all, a very fruitful endeavor!

I will continue to experiment, and report the results.

I also chopped up one of the last Brandywine tomatoes of the season as a side.

Boilingly yours,

Steve

[cabrales]

steverino -- Thanks for the report.

I recently bought "Paul Bocuse In Your Kitchen. An Introduction to Classic French Cooking" (1982). It contains a recipe for pot-au-feu:

2 or 3 marrow bones

Small beef shank -- 6 lbs or equal weight of oxtail and beef short ribs

Veal foresbank (foreshank?) -- 2.75 lbs

6 quarts water

4 teaspoons coarse salt

Bouquet garni

1 onion, peeled and stuck with a clove

5 peppercorns

4 medium carrots, peeled

4 medium turnips, peeled

heart of 1 head of celery, split lengthwise

4 leeks, cleaned and tied in a bunch

Toast (for marrow)

Vinegar pickles

Dijon mustard

Coarse sea salt

Wrap the marrow bones in a piece of cheesecloth and tie the ends together to seal them inside. Reserve.

Place the beef and veal in a large pot, add the cold water (the meat should be covered) and the coarse salt, and bring to a boil. Skim off any foam that surfaces using a skimmer or slotted spoon.

When the water boils, add the bouquet garni, the onion stuck with a clove, and the pepercorns. Lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 3 hours, then add the vegetables and simmer 45 minutes more.

To serve, lift the beef and veal out of the pot and place on a hot serving platter with the vegetables and marrow bones around them. Serve with toast, vinegar pickles, plain or flavored Dijon mustard, and a bowl of coarse sea alt all on the side.

There is also a recipe for pot-au-feu au gratin.