Cibreo

[docsconz]

Chef Canora, Thank you for taking the time to do this Q&A. I am especially intrigued by your experience at Cibreo in Firenze. I have had the distinct pleasure of having dined there. What specific influences did you bring back from there? How does your experience there manifest itself in your cooking and approach to food?

[Marco Canora]

The biggest thing I learned at Cibreo was to see how Fabio Picci, the chef/owner, maintained consistency. He was in the kitchen every day tasting and adjusting every dish--The fact that he has been there for over twenty years and is still so dedicated is really inspiring. Also, to see the artisanal aspect of how he runs his restaurant was amazing. Every day a slew of different purveyors came to Cibreo, each with his own impressive product. I came to realize that there was a person behind every ingredient in the restaurant, and those people weren't simply the delivery people; they were individuals who took pride in what they had to offer and were held accountable for the quality of their products, which is not often the case here in New York.

While Fabio did not need to be at the restaurant every day because he was surrounded by talented cooks who had been with him for years and knew exactly what he wanted, he still chose to be present. As a chef/owner, I now realize the importance of following his example if I want to ensure the quality of every meal served at my restaurant.

In terms of specific influences, I came to appreciate the importance of soffrito, an aromatic vegetable base that Fabio used in virtually every dish. While I grew up eating food that was made with soffrito, his use of it made me realize just how versatile and integral it can be to the flavor of a dish. I learned the concept of treating this base as though it were a caramel, controlling the color and potency from a pale blonde (less concentrated, more subtle) to a burnt umber (very potent and rich), and how different concentrations are suitable for different dishes.

[MobyP]

Chef -

could you give us some examples of dishes using the different forms of soffrito?