Chocolatiers We Like:

[chocophile]

Terrarich:

Asking what's the best chocolate is like asking what's the best wine. There are clusters of opinion that seem to agree, but ultimately it comes down to personal taste.

IN GENERAL, there is a "French" style of chocolate that tends to enrobed bittersweet ganache "palet" style truffles. The flavors are often very subtle - sometimes so subtle that you have trouble figuring out what the flavor is supposed to be. Of the brands you can get in the State, La Maison du Chocolat is hands down the best. The flavors are generally clean and recognizable and they are consistently well made. For my taste, the Zagora (fresh mint) is one of the best mints anywhere. I will be in Paris next month and plan to get some fresh Bernachon, Herme, Hevin, and others and I will report back.

Vosges is in the French style using Belgian chocolate. While their flavor combinations are interesting, they are quite subtle. Whether or not you like Vosges will depend a lot on how subtle you like the flavors in your chocolate. They are very good at marketing to their niche - chic chocolate; young, trendy, chocolate as lifestyle accessory. One thing to know however, is that I have been told that they buy their shells and have them filled.

Jubilee in Philadelphia is also in the French style (with French chocolate, Valrhona) but caters to socially responsible missions, not fashion. They make a very good mint, and their Cafe Noir - Mexican Coffe with whiskey is extraordinary - the flavors go back and forth between coffee and whiskey in waves in your mouth.

Jacques Torres is (obviously) in the French style but Steve, if you're gonna knock John Down/Christopher Norman for using Schokinag I can't believe you didn't point out that Jacques uses Belcolade. Jacques is a great guy and the "Emeril of pastry." However, given his reputation and what he charges - he should be making better pieces than he does, in my opinion. Interestingly, as Steve pointed out, he makes the chocoalte for MarieBelle using her recipes and I prefer MarieBelle to Jacques because the flavor combinations are more interesting and the peices are prettier.

IN GENERAL, there is an "American" style of chocolate that we know from Sees and other brands in the $18 and under price point. However, there is a "Nouvelle American" style that is popping up. The Nouvelle American style tends to be less "in your face" with flavors than the regular American style, but definitely more forward than the French style. There also seems to be a lot of experimentation with flavor in caramel with great results and there is a lot of experimentation with decoration.

Patrick Coston (formerly of Ilo and now at The Art of Chocolate), and Drew Shotts (of Garrison Confections) are two of the better-known practitioners of this style, but I am surprised that everyone missed Norman Love. For those of you who don't know, Norman was hired by Godiva for their new "G" collection, and while I have to agree with the overall perceptions of the regular Godiva line as being mediocre, "G" is actually very good. The major difference between "G" and what Norman makes for himself is that the "G" ganaches are very "dry." The low water activity level provides for added shelf life without preservatives. {Though TrishCT does not agree. I will say that they are perfect for their intended audience and will bring back to the Godiva fold those who defected for Neuhaus, Leonidas, and Teuscher, et al., and will raise awareness across the board for American artisan chocolatiers -- which is a very good thing.}

Kee Ling Tong of Chocolate Garden here in NYC was a student of Jacques' at FCI. Her work is amazing. She makes my personal favorite piece - her creme brulee truffle (not bruleed, actually, but a custard-filled dark shell) and what may be the best passion fruit chocolate heart going.

I second Steve's recommendation of Chuao in Encinitas - one of the few chocolatiers of their ilk that are using 100% "New World" chocolate -- El Rey. Several very nice caramels, clean, forward flavors.

Zingerman's is a great resource for those in the midwest looking for a chocolate fix. I've tried hard to figure out how to get his stuff here in NY and it's not easy.

Out Seattle way, try Fran's Grey Salt and Smoked Salt caramels. Really wonderful.

The one true tip I give to people when it comes to buying chocolate (apart from checking for freshness) is to say that the relationship you want to develop with your chocolatier is the one your grandmother wanted to have with her butcher. Over time, your chocolatier will learn to know what you like and will repay your loyalty by making the best recommendations, giving you the freshest stuff, and passing free tastings your way.

HTH,

Clay

Edited March 12, 2004 by chocophile (log)

[robyn]

Thanks for your message Clay. As someone who loves chocolate - but who doesn't live in a major city - I kind of stumble onto things. E.g., I first found Vosges when we stayed in a hotel in Chicago in 2002 and it had a Vosges boutique there. There were giving away free samples . I'm glad that they sell on the internet - and that their shipping practices are excellent. I will look up some of the other places you recommend. If I can't get the items shipped - perhaps I will wind up in their parts of the world some day. Robyn

[thegreatdane]

Greetings,

This is my first post on this most excellent board. My eyes are buggin from all the reading I've done and there's still too much to cover.

Anyway, I thought I'd throw in my two cents about good chocolatiers. Just down the road from me is Roscar Chocolates. I visited them recently and Hans was as gracious as he was expert in making chocolate. Delicious product, very European/Belgian tradition, some interesting flavor combinations. One in particular; Tequila, lime, jalapeño. Their web site: # http://www.roscar.com/

From Austin,

Tom

[achevres]

[JFCampbell]

For a good selection of only the top brands check out Chocosphere. I have had excellent service from them.

http://www.chocosphere.com/

An excellent source for quality chocolates is See's Candies in California.

http://www.sees.com/

I particularly like their Chocolate Cremes (other chocolate cremes pale in comparison) and their Bordeux, both with dark chocolate coating. Be careful ordering the chocolate cremes ... twice I wasn't clear enough and got vanilla cremes. Alas, I'm diabetic now and can't really eat these delights, but I can dream ...

[chicagowench]

Oh, how I miss Piron in Evanston. But moving to KC has its plusses, namely, Christopher Elbow Chocolates. Holy crow. I go to La Maison every time I'm in NYC, but these are something completely different. The flavors are so pure and explosive, they're beautiful.

[duckduck]

I'll have to check out Christopher Elbow. I love Norman Love's stuff and it would be a very dangerous thing if I lived in Florida. It's high time for me to look around and make sure we don't have anything new here in town.

[skrattypants]

i'm glad to see someone haul this topic back up as i have only recently discoverd moonstruck chocolates from oregon. o my.

http://moonstruckchocolate.com/

and if anyone finds themselves in southern wi, they owe it themselves to try candinas--their raspberry earl grey truffle is incredible.

http://www.candinas.com/

[Tarek]

Leonidas just opened a store in Santa Monica, have not tried it yet, but generally

Leonidas in Europe is somewhat decent. Unfortunately in Los Angeles, chocolate

choices are limited. sigh

Tarek Mokhtar

[Steve Klc]

I've mentioned these guys before, Tarek, have you tried them:

https://www.chuaochocolatier.com/index2.html

They're right down the road from you in Encinitas and I thought they were doing very high quality work when I was there last. They weren't aiming for style over substance, nor flash or faux chic at the expense of flavor and respect for tradition, which some of the more nouveau American chocolatiers succumb to.

[Tarek]

Steve,

Yes, I visit their store every once in a while, the drive along the Ocean is beautiful,

and the chocolate is quite good

Tarek Mokhtar

Laguna Beach, Ca