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Best Cookware in General


Fat Guy

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Perhaps the best way to ask this is: If you could only keep seven of your pots and pans, which would you keep? Or, if you were building a set from scratch, which seven pieces would you consider most essential? Let's hear brand names, composition, and exact sizes of your most intelligently selected seven pieces.

A couple of thoughts here:

First, from the way I asked the question, it should be evident that I think it's basically idiotic to get a set of cookware in one style from one manufacturer. It's a forgivable error for a novice or newlywed, but no serious cook should make the mistake of thinking the same style of utensil is best for all tasks. The ideal stockpot and the ideal skillet have very different properties.

Second, the most expensive utensil is not always the best for a given job. In some cases the only benefit of a more expensive piece is aesthetic (which, if you actually use your cookware, will quickly become irrelevant as you abuse it), and in other cases it's durability. But if something costs three times as much and lasts twice as long, that doesn't make it a sensible purchase.

Here's my list of six pieces, drawn from what is actually in my kitchen, in order of how often I use each:

--10.5in Griswold square cast-iron skillet (not a ridged grill pan, even though it's square)

--10in Calphalon anodized aluminum non-stick skillet (from the Commercial line, which recently replaced the same item I had from the Professional line)

--8qt and 20qt stainless stockpots with aluminum-clad bottoms from www.abestkitchen.com (ื and ๋ respectively, including lids)

--5.5qt Calphalon anodized aluminum Dutch oven; I'm not sure they make the exact piece I have anymore, but here's basically what it looks like:

CL141S_web.jpg

--4.2qt stainless evasee from Sitram; sort of a cross between a saucepan and a sauté pan, able to do pretty much anything you'd do in either:

STevasee.gif

There are two similarly sized skillets on that list because those are what I use for probably 75% of my cooking.

The number seven spot is a tie between a dozen or so pieces that I adore but could live just fine without. None of my copper, for example, is particularly essential in my kitchen. I like it, but I don't use it much. Ditto for saucepans in various sizes, sauté pans, griddle, grill pan, et al. So I'll rest on that set of six.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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Here goes, here's my list:

All-Clad 10 inch omelet pan

All-Clad pasta pan, that doubles as stock pot

All-Clad 12 X 4 inch pan with lid

(All above are stainless)

Centurion 12 inch frying pan (steel) http://www.lincolnfp.com/Products/Cook/Cen...n/centurion.htm (Thanks, Fat Guy, for link on other thread)

12 inch Calphalon (I think) anodized aluminum non-stick, ridged frying pan (for stove-top 'grilling')

Le Creust 8 inch casserole (I always cook my risotto in this)

And I guess a little pan: All-Clad milk pan.

I'm probably made a gross omission.

This article on pans is quite interesting.

http://www.winespectator.com/Wine....00.html

Looks like Portale uses Centurion pans.

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Can you describe these two in a bit more detail? I'm trying to get a handle on them and I can't quite figure out which they are. Thanks!

All-Clad pasta pan, that doubles as stock pot

All-Clad 12 X 4 inch pan with lid

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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I think the pieces Yvonne mentioned are a stockpot with a perforated pasta insert, and I'm guessing the 12x4 inch pan is an oval casserole.

As for me, I'd have to go for (not in any order):

  • All-Clad 12" nonstick skillet (typically eggs, fish, and hash browns).
  • All-Clad 10" non-nonstick skillet
  • Lodge 8" cast iron pan (used exclusively for cornbread, but eat a lot of cornbread)
  • All-Clad 3.5 qt saucepan (just big enough for two servings of short pasta, soup, or short ribs, plus a million other things.  I also have a 2.5 qt All-Clad pot that I absolutely never use.)
  • Mauviel professional weight copper saute pan, 9" or so.  I'm ambivalent about this piece.  It's brutally heavy and has to be polished, and I don't use it as much as I expected to.  Still, when I need it, I need it.
  • Cheap Costco 10" nonstick skillet.  This thing has somehow lasted six years without flaking.  I use it all the time, but right now I can only think of a couple of uses:  eggs for two, and sauteeing breadcrumbs for a potato cake dish.  Maybe I'll swing by Williams-Sonoma today and get a Calphalon for when this one dies.
  • 1 qt Revere Ware saucepan.  For oatmeal and Malt-o-Meal.

That's almost my complete collection and I don't feel like I'm missing anything.  Next we'll have to do knives, unless we already did that.

Matthew Amster-Burton, aka "mamster"

Author, Hungry Monkey, coming in May

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Here's my list:

1.  1.8 Qt. saucepan

2.  2.7 Qt. saucepan

    Bourgeat "Universal" st. st. induction line (French)--since I have to do alot of demos and appearances with portable induction stoves.  On the Bourgeat, I love the rounded handles which keep cool, bent just so for your thumb to rest in an indent on the top surface, and they are soldered onto the pan intelligently so it cleans easily, with no nooks or crannies for dirt and food to get stuck into.  Also, the base is seamlessly integrated into the sides--again, easy to clean.  They are indestructible and have a curved lip--making it very easy to pour from the pan cleanly.  They also work fine on regular stovetops.

3.  1.5 Qt. saucepan

4.  3.0 Qt. saucepan

    Sitram st. st. (French)--your basic line for restaurant use, with flat but curved handles with a hole in the handle to hang.  Nothing special, but serviceable, almost indestructible, with a curved lip--but slightly harder to clean, with an exposed base and handle edges to trap grit.

All of these saucepans, my main cookware for pastry work, share one characteristic--they are much wider, in diameter, than they are tall, proportionately--better access with hand tools, more surface area, better evaporation, etc.

5. 10 Qt. stockpot with 2 handles

6. 14 Qt. stockpot with 2 handles

    Both stainless steel from Macy's "Tools of the Trade" Royalty line, which I can't remember whether that was the best or just the better one of their house lines.  Both turned out to be indestructible stockpots with a heavy base--and a nice price to performance ratio for boiling/poaching stuff in--especially when you consider how expensive the large size stockpots from All-Clad et al are.

7.  Half sheet pan

    Thick-walled aluminum.  I have to include this here, since we're limited to 7 pans only and I probably use half sheetpans for more things, and more often, than any other "pan" in my collection--roasting, broiling, water bath, baking, drying--you name it, this pan does it.  It should probably be number 2 on my list, after a saucepan, in terms of its vitality and usefulness.

I have not had good luck with Calphalon.  I don't like the All Clad "Ltd" line because, though it might look cool, you can't put that anodized black aluminum exterior in the dishwasher.  The regular All Clad pieces I've had and worked with seemed excellent--sturdy--though the handles and rivets are hard to clean and the edges are straight--as I've mentioned, I prefer the edge with a lip, making it much easier to pour.

Less expensive but still serviceable have been the various Cuisinart st. st. saucepans I have used--and still use to this day.  They just don't crack my top 7.  My number 8 pan, if allowed, would have been a shallow, but wide 5 Qt. Cuisinart sauce/saute pan similar to the one Steven mentioned.

Steve Klc

Pastry chef-Restaurant Consultant

Oyamel : Zaytinya : Cafe Atlantico : Jaleo

chef@pastryarts.com

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Here is my list:

- T-Fal 4qt Deep Saute Pan, which i literally use every day.

- Analon 14in. frying pan, non-stick, but you can sear in it fine.

- Calphalon 2qt stainless steel sauce pan;

- Some old pasta pan with two inserts;

- Le Creuset 12in. frying pan, exclusively used for paella, which i prepare at least once a week. It's an ideal pan for paella for two, which can stand 500F in the oven, and gives a wonderful crust. I do have a 14in. paella pan, but i'm not using it, at least not for paella.

- Chantal ceramic baking dish. I know it's technically a bakeware, but i cannot help but mention it, since gratin or lasagne is a standard weeknight dinner.

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Yes, I agree bakeware is a different category. Steve, you can have one more piece. We won't count the sheet pan. :)

So, somebody start the bakeware thread and the knife thread. Choose some reasonable rules. Don't make me do it, please!

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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  • 2 months later...

10" cast iron frying pan with a machined

interior.  Best for sauteing at smoking

temperatures, especially over propane

burner outdoors.

9" cast iron frying pan with machined

interior.  Right size for crepes,

pancakes, hash.

Farberware stainless steel pot with

aluminum on the outside on the bottom,

sizes 2, 3, and 8 quarts -- good for

sauces, soups, stews, braising, stocks.

Sears Altiva saute pan, heavy stamped

aluminum, Teflon interior, enamel

exterior, 12".  Good for second side of

crepes, pancakes, omelets, low fat

sauteing.

Westinghouse electric skillet -- square

shape, durable non-stick surface, about

right for four slices of French toast,

convenient for setting up on back porch

for sauteing at smoking temperatures

outdoors.

What would be the right food and wine to go with

R. Strauss's 'Ein Heldenleben'?

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1) I can't believe no one mentioned a wok. I use my wok several times a week, and not just for Asian food. It is also really good for preparing the sauteed part or sauce for pasta, because it is large enought to mix in the pasta after draining. Although done less frequently, it is also the pan I use most for deep frying (that or cast iron). Don't get a fancy brand name wok, and heaven forbid a non-stick one; these should preferably be bought at an Asian grocery or hardware store in any Chinatown.

2) Cast Iron Skillet, bought at a hardware store. I use it for anything that needs browning.

3) 2 qt pan, Revere stainless steel w/copper bottom (from newlywed set) mostly used for sauces or smaller portions of things, like warming soup. Gift alert: What I really need is a saucier or evasee like Steven's cause I hate it when I'm making a sauce and the wisk doesn't get in the corners.

4) Stock pot. I have a 6 and 8 qt Revere stock pot, but would ditch them both for one 12 qt.

5) Non-stick skillet. I primarily use a 6" Circulon and almost exclusively to make eggs. Jason ruined the larger non-stick Revere skillet I got with my set when he used a fork on it!!! :( So he is banned from using the Circulon.

I have a lot of other pieces and sizes, but these are probably all "I can't live without."

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On pots larger than 8 quarts:  Sure, I'd

like a pot larger than 8 quarts.  And, I'd

like a commercial kitchen in my house.

When I get the second, I'll like the first

even more.

Actually, I did get a 12 quart stock pot:

Bought a Vollrath, 12 quart, stainless

steel with a thick sheet of aluminum stuck

on the outside of the bottom and two large

metal handles.  Also got the lid.  The

inside is polished to nearly a mirror.

It's nice.  I use it.

But:  It won't fit in my oven -- it's too

tall, that's all.  Thankfully, it will fit

in my two favorite refrigerators.  It's

not easy to wash, and if it were much

taller, then washing would have to be done

only in warm weather, outdoors, with a

garden hose.  If it were just 2 mm taller,

then it just would not fit under the

faucet in my sink.  It won't fit in my

dishwasher, and in my plastic dishpans can

get it wet only only on its side and then

fully wet only by rotating the pot about

its long axis.  In contrast the 8 quart

Farberware can be fully submerged in a

standard plastic dishpan.

Eventually it can dawn on one that the

Farberware people knew how big usual

things were in a usual kitchen and made

their 8 quart pot to fit -- ovens,

refrigerators, sinks, dishpans, and

dishwashers.  Thank you Farberware!

On whipping in a sauce pot:  The

Farberware pots I use, 2, 3, 5, and 8

quarts, I often use with a wire whip.  For

the wire whips I usually use, it's easy

enough to get into the corners.  Got the

whips about 30 years ago:  They are 100%

stainless steel.

The largest loop at its largest width,

outside, measures 2 11/16" wide.  The

longest loop is 7 9/16" long, outside, in

its exposed parts from the handle to the

working end of the loop.  The overall

length is 11 3/4". The handle is slightly

offset.  The handle says "Made in

Denmark".

Sure, a slightly larger radius at the

bottom of the pan would make getting a

whip in there easier, but you don't really

need a radius as long as (2 11/16")*(1/2)

= 1 11/32" to clean the corners

effectively.

E.g., elsewhere on eGullet someone asked

about seafood in crepes, and I answered

with my favorite old recipe.  An early

step has 1 1/2 C of reduced stock added to

a roux of 8 T of butter and 10 T of flour.

We're talking STIFF stuff here, at least

until some milk gets whipped in.  I do it

in a 2 quart Farberware pot with one of

the wire whips described above.  Works

fine.

The Farberware pots I listed are stainless

steel except for some aluminum on the

outside of the bottom.  My understanding

is that these are no longer sold.  I

started buying them about 30 years ago.

For the 2 and 3 quart ones, I have a nice

collection of each in the kitchen together

with several new ones of each still in

their unopened original boxes.

Noticed that Amazon is selling the current

version of the Farberware 8 quart pot for

a little under forty bucks.  If it were

the same as what I have, I would buy it.

Putting stainless steel over the aluminum

on the outside of the bottom seems to me

like something for less in functionality

and more in style.  Such backsliding can

be a step down a slippery slope to the

destruction of civilization -- need to

resist such things!

The Westinghouse electric fry pan I listed

has a nice advantage:  In any dry weather,

hot or cold, can just plug it in outdoors,

pour in some cooking oil, let it get hot,

put in four frozen hamburgers, set a

timer, and walk away.

On my list of 7 pots, I left off the

Vollrath.

What would be the right food and wine to go with

R. Strauss's 'Ein Heldenleben'?

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I am branching out from the Craft debate...Couldn't help but input:

1.  Le Creuset Dutch Oven:  All the advantages of a cast iron, but with much easier clean up.  Beautiful for soups and braises. Also as a stock pot, pasta pot...

2.  All-Clad Sauteuse:  Great for saute, small roasts, and steaming/glazing vegetables.

3.  Kitchen-Aid Saucier:  Rounded bottom for easy access of whisk.  Great for making pastry cream or custards.  Primarily for reduction of sauces, but I use it more for dessert prep.  Better than All-Clad because of "helper handle" opposite the long handle.

4.  Berndes 9in Non-Stick: For eggs.  My wife really likes this one becasue she doesn't have to use a towel to hold the wood handle.

5.  Halco Brand Sauce Pots:  Available at restaurant supply.  Dishwasher safe, welded handles are not perfect but after two years of constant abuse not one has busted.  Also they are induction ready, heavy bottomed, and CHEAP.

6.  Do I really need any more...? NO.  I have more, but I use those the most.  I have some copper, but don't notice a significant performance difference to warrant the maintenance.  

I also recommend a non non-stick pan for fish.  You can get a much better crust on the fish skin (the best part of the fish) with a non non-stick.

Perry

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  • 7 months later...

Question about Sauciers:

About to buy one,* here are the options available at Chef Central in Paramus, NJ:

All-Clad - eek, how expensive, but beautiful, however very heavy and it feels too "tippy" to me anyway so I think it's out.

KitchenAid - ack, moderately expensive, smaller than the All-Clad, but nice finish and feels good in my hand

Calphalon - Almost as expensive, but won't the anodized aluminum scratch if I use a regular wisk?

Calphalon Pots & Pans line - pretty cheap, relativiely speaking, but what's the point of getting a cheap "Calphalon" with a non-non-stick finish?

Sitram - around the same price as the Pots & Pans. I think it's the most utilitarian version. I don't love the handle, though, kind of uncomfortable, and it has a rather sharp edge.

I can go to other stores to look at other brands, but that's what I saw today.

Also, I thought I remembered there being a review of sauciers in Cook's Illustrated or Saveur, anyone know the results or month of the article?

----------------------------------------------------

*OK, my mom already bought us the KitchenAid pan, but I can return it if you all convince me it's not worth it B00004S8DA.01.MZZZZZZZ.jpg

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Rachel, what size? I have mostly All-Clad, and no, they are actually very stable. And they are very very sturdy (I have MasterChef). Can't tell you how many times I've burned stuff on, yet the pot cleaned up like new. Although I'm not crazy about the long handle on the big ones; those really need the helper handle.

The main thing is, if you're really going to use it to make sauces, you want even heat distribution throughout the bottom AND sides. Responsiveness to changes in flame height. A good, solid composition, because a thin pot has neither of those two qualities. And, yes, stability on the burner. But none of this matters if YOU don't feel comfortable with it. Hope this helps. :biggrin:

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Ah, yeah -- those handles really could be scary; that's the only thing I hate about All-Clad. That size is big enough to feel uncomfortable, but too small for the helper handle. Hey, if doesn't feel right, don't get it. There are LOTS of good alternatives out there. (I just have no experience with them. :biggrin: )

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10" non-stick Bourgeat pan. Couldn't live without, but needs replacing (due to child's craft project). Purchased at Marshall's for $4.99!

5.5 quart All-Clad saucier.

2 quart old Cuisinart sauce pan. My mom got it from Cuisinart years and years ago as some sort of lawsuit settlement (?)

8" really, really old enameled cast iron skillet. My grandmother said that my grandfather (he was a grocer) got it from a supplier in 1930.

1 quart enameled cast iron saucepan (from same grocery supplier; also circa 1930).

10 quart stock pot. Stainless with a copper disk in the bottom. Wedding gift.

12" All-clad frying pan with lid.

I got rid of every other pot and pan in the house because I didn't use any of them (unless you count my bamboo steamers), and I went on a huge decluttering "no my house isn't too small, we just have too much crap" kick. I even had kitchen stuff we'd gotten for our wedding (21 years ago) that had never been used!

Susan Fahning aka "snowangel"
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Rachel, anodized aluminum is safe with any kind of utensil. Only the non-stick surfaces are prone to damage from, say, a metal whisk. I've got to say that for me those handles on the Alll-Clad utensils are a dealbreaker. KitchenAid handles are pretty stable, though. My only concern would be that the line hasn't been around very long and therefore hasn't proven itself. Given all your choices I'd probably go with either the Sitram or the Calphalon.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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I have a 12" non-stick calphalon "everyday" pan.  It's great for everything from quick pasta sauce to eggs (I'm not an omelette guy) to stir-fry.  I wish it had a long handle, though.  Don't understand why it doesn't.

Because it's meant to function as a bake-and-serve piece more than a stovetop piece. The shape of the pan itself is hardly different from that of a Calphalon 12" omelet pan -- they should both be 2" high with similarly sloped sides. If you want the everyday pan with a long handle, have a look at the equivalent size omelet pan.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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here's mine

30 cm le creuset fry pan-- this pan has the matte enamel finish inside so it means it cooks just like cast iron but without the acid reactivity. Used to double as a roasting pan before I had roasting pans and still stir-fries better than a wok on our cheap apartment stove. Bought it for $6 at a junk store.

6 quart all-clad mc2 sauté pan-- I really waffled on buying this pan (vs. the 3 qt) and have never been sorry...the frond that develops on this sucker is amazing. Bought it at Will&Son with a friend's employee discount.

8 qt belgique sauteuse pan-- not fond of my other belgique pans, I bought them before I knew any better, but this pan fits my giant bamboo steamers perfectly and has a nice large surface area for cooking gnocchi and dumplings, it's over 12 inches wide. I suppose in a pinch you could boil pasta in it as well.

7 liter le creuset marmite pan-- again, this pan has the matte enamel finish, so not only is it a nice shape for making soups, but it also doubles as a wok when dinner won't fit into the frying pan. Bought it at the le creuset outlet store bi-annual sale.

4.5 qt le creuset french oven-- could double as a saucepan in a pinch and is a really nice versatile size. Bought the bottom at a garage sale for $2 and the lid at Goodwill for $1.99.

the last one is a tough choice, but I think I'd go with the 8 qt generic stainless steel stock pot with pasta and steamer inserts...

regards,

trillium

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I have a 12" non-stick calphalon "everyday" pan.  It's great for everything from quick pasta sauce to eggs (I'm not an omelette guy) to stir-fry.  I wish it had a long handle, though.  Don't understand why it doesn't.

Because it's meant to function as a bake-and-serve piece more than a stovetop piece. The shape of the pan itself is hardly different from that of a Calphalon 12" omelet pan -- they should both be 2" high with similarly sloped sides. If you want the everyday pan with a long handle, have a look at the equivalent size omelet pan.

Well, that's silly. I don't think I've ever used to to bake and serve. Certainly not everyday. I use it almost every time I cook -- to saute, etc. If that's what it's meant for, they've got the wrong name. They need to rethink their marketing.

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All-Clad LTD non-stick sautee pan-6" amd 9"

Sitram stainless clad-copper bottom 14" sautee pan with cover

Macy's Tools of the Trade (Best quality) 5 Qt. and 10 Qt Stock pots

9" and 11" copper, tin lined tarte tatin pans

Williams Sonoma French model roasting pans-small, medium, large

Williams Sonoma Multi-purpose pot

French copper, inox-lined sautee pans-6" 9"

10" cast iron Griswold skillet

8 qt. Griswold cast iron dutch oven

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All-Clad LTD non-stick sautee pan-6" amd 9"

Sitram stainless clad-copper bottom 14" sautee pan with cover

Macy's Tools of the Trade  (Best quality) 5 Qt. and 10 Qt Stock pots

9" and 11" copper, tin lined tarte tatin pans

Williams Sonoma French model roasting pans-small, medium, large

Williams Sonoma Multi-purpose pot

French copper, inox-lined sautee pans-6" 9"

10" cast iron Griswold skillet

8 qt. Griswold cast iron dutch oven

Um. What the fuck. That's 15.

I guess it's o.k., I only listed one, and found out that I use it incorrectly.

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DStone, I took a look at some literature and I might be off on the heights. It's the 10" everyday pan that's 2" high, and the 12" omelet pan is the same height. I don't know the height of the 12" everyday pan -- it's not listed in the materials I have. But if it's about 2" then you should just replace it with the equivalent diameter omelet pan and you'll be much happier because you'll have a real handle. You won't have to grab those little loop handles with potholders and have the potholders catch fire while you wonder what that strange smell is. I guess they're selling a lot of these everyday pans, but they seem pretty dumb to me. They're not actually attractive enough to bring to the table so they fail on the bake-and-serve front, and of course they're terrible on the stovetop. All I can think of to do with them is make things like German-style apple pancakes or the kinds of baked tapas items that take that shape -- though all of those would call for a smaller pan than the 12" size. So I don't know.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

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DStone, I took a look at some literature and I might be off on the heights. It's the 10" everyday pan that's 2" high, and the 12" omelet pan is the same height. I don't know the height of the 12" everyday pan -- it's not listed in the materials I have. But if it's about 2" then you should just replace it with the equivalent diameter omelet pan and you'll be much happier because you'll have a real handle. You won't have to grab those little loop handles with potholders and have the potholders catch fire while you wonder what that strange smell is. I guess they're selling  a lot of these everyday pans, but they seem pretty dumb to me. They're not actually attractive enough to bring to the table so they fail on the bake-and-serve front, and of course they're terrible on the stovetop. All I can think of to do with them is make things like German-style apple pancakes or the kinds of baked tapas items that take that shape -- though all of those would call for a smaller pan than the 12" size. So I don't know.

I got mine free with some other purchase.

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